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Kimera Industries Project Nova: 17 liters of 5-slot mATX goodness

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Lone

King of Cable Management
Lone Industries
Feb 25, 2015
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Not sure if our manufacturer would be game for something like this, but regardless, it isn't really how we can go about making units for those who contributed to a crowdfunding campaign. Getting cases out to everyone (post-campaign) as quickly as possible is actually something we've really tried to optimize, especially since we've kept people waiting so long as it is :(

(I have a running list on my desktop titled "Things we've screwed up on", and "Stringing people along" is up there, second only to "Not doubling every time estimate we've banked on"...)

Agree. Keep it simple!
 

PNP

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Oct 10, 2015
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Been following the development of this case for a while now. It's pretty much a race between [redacted], the TJ-08E, and the Node 804. Watercooling my 400 watt beast will be possible in any of the three (whether or not it stays 400 watt might change with Pascal/Arctic Islands). The deciding factor will be exhaust capability and 3.5in drive support versus size and transport-ability...and maybe moddability if I can ever figure out how to get acrylic paint to stick powder coats.

Have additional mounting points on the side bracket been considered? Seasonic likes to put all the connectors for their ATX PSUs up top (top being the side opposite the fan), leaving easily enough space for a ~26 mm thick object. With such a PSU of 160 mm length on the side bracket, I believe there could be some space left for either an additional fan or a 3.5 inch drive. I'd prefer an internal 3.5 inch drive because while USB 3.0 can more or less handle a 7200 RPM drive, every single external enclosure I've found has had undesirable power-saving features that tend to crash the computer its hooked up to.
 
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Vittra

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May 11, 2015
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At this point and time, I would suggest avoiding the TJ08-E as a possible candidate and instead consider the upcoming TJ08 Pro.

This is said from someone who has owned 2x TJ08-E, one seeing use currently. :p
 

PNP

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Oct 10, 2015
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At this point and time, I would suggest avoiding the TJ08-E as a possible candidate and instead consider the upcoming TJ08 Pro.

This is said from someone who has owned 2x TJ08-E, one seeing use currently. :p

Are you air or watercooling it? For me, it's the fact that you can squeeze more slightly radiator space than a thick 360 mm, a proper pump, separate res for easy monitoring, all sorts of in-line bells and whistles, and two 5.25 bay devices into a case that's reasonably smaller than my current Define R4. I heard the TJ-08 Pro is supposed to be larger...

I'd be willing to give up a lot of features and the 5.25 bays if the [redacted] can retain the core storage and cooling performance requirements though, because I do not look forward to even occaisonally transporting something the size of the TJ-08E.
 
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Vittra

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May 11, 2015
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Currently air.

Previously I did have it watercooled - Phobya 200mm rad / Monsoon Bay Res Series 2 + D5 unit. It is indeed admirable in that regard but you may find yourself angered by how flimsy the side panels, top panel, and side rails for the 5.25" / PSU are - especially if it's going to be transported occasionally. In that regard, the Nova may be the best choice.

Vibration transmission of a bay res in the TJ08-E due to the paper thin 5.25" rails is also a huge concern - more so than the typical case, but it sounds like you are going with a separate (cylinder?) res, which is a good choice.

If you are willing to sacrifice a bit on rad space and only have 1x 3.5", the Silverstone KL06 is overall a much improved take on the TJ08-E.

I can't speak to if the TJ08 Pro will be bigger. It's based on the original TJ08 design rather than the -E designation, and the original TJ08 was actually smaller than the current TJ08-E.
 

jeshikat

Jessica. Wayward SFF.n Founder
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Feb 22, 2015
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Have additional mounting points on the side bracket been considered? Seasonic likes to put all the connectors for their ATX PSUs up top (top being the side opposite the fan), leaving easily enough space for a ~26 mm thick object. With such a PSU of 160 mm length on the side bracket, I believe there could be some space left for either an additional fan or a 3.5 inch drive.

That may be doable. The ATX PSU isn't up flush against the side bracket because I had to leave enough material on the frame so it wasn't weakened.

What all parts do you have/plan to get?
 

PNP

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Oct 10, 2015
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It is indeed admirable in that regard but you may find yourself angered by how flimsy the side panels, top panel, and side rails for the 5.25" / PSU are - especially if it's going to be transported occasionally. In that regard, the Nova may be the best choice.

Vibration transmission of a bay res in the TJ08-E due to the paper thin 5.25" rails is also a huge concern - more so than the typical case, but it sounds like you are going with a separate (cylinder?) res, which is a good choice.

Ah, I'd heard the frame was a bit wobbly but hadn't considered the gauge of the steel. Been spoiled by Fractal's insistence on making side panels bulletproof. I was going to do a cylinder res or maybe a pump top if there was enough clearance between the rear 120 mm mounting point and the (ideally) first PCIe x16 slot. If not, that rectangular acrylic(?) res Swiftech makes seemed like a good alternative.

What all parts do you have/plan to get?

i7-4790 (non-K)*
Z97 Gryphon** (Yes, I know, but H97 boards are typically lacking in fan headers and decent software. Also might end up using the armor kit and its awful 35 mm fan if the airflow over the VRMs is bad enough.)
GTX Pascal or R9 Arctic Islands depending on size, TDP, and general performance (Because no way my 780 Classified is going to fit)
2TB WD Black* (If it fits somewhere)
16GB DDR3 1600 CL8 G.Skill Ares
256GB Samsung 840 PRO* (Will probably upgrade to 2TB 850 PRO or Intel equivalent after the prices drop)
Seasonic 660W Platinum Series*
EK Predator 240 in front (will modify CPU block with 90 degree fittings to lower profile, H220-X may also work but the placement of the res worries me a bit)
Alphacool 240mm ST30 on bottom (Or 120mm ST30 if it turns out there is a conflict at the front)
Various tubing, two inline 10K fluid temperature sensors, and probably a flowmeter

As for fans I'm undecided. Maybe 1450 RPM GentleTyphoons or some flavor of Noctuas. The Noctuas scream at high RPM and the GTs have weird tonality at certain RPM bands. Still looking. Bottom will likely be exhaust because I've never had a fan that didn't get significantly noisier or even grind against the case when trying to intake face down.

* = transplant from current setup
** = currently have for fear that obsolescence might make it harder to find later
 
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jeshikat

Jessica. Wayward SFF.n Founder
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Feb 22, 2015
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It's questionable if the Predator will fit up front. If you're only going to have a single video card you could maybe put the Predator on the bottom and the 120mm ST30 on the upper front.
 

PNP

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Oct 10, 2015
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I see. Would that still leave space at the lower front for a 120 mm fan and would something thicker like the XT45 fit? Maintaining mildly positive pressure would be ideal.

At this time, I'm provisioning for 84W + 250W system TDP. I think 360 mm combined rad space, 38-40 mm average thickness, and average 15 FPI should suffice while maintaining reasonable noise. Hopefully the next generation of 16 nm GPUs will cut down on the heat.
 

jeshikat

Jessica. Wayward SFF.n Founder
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Feb 22, 2015
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I don't think the XT45 if you want the 3.5" on the side bracket.

@WiSK is more knowledgeable about this, but I think you could easily get away with much less rad space. Since you aren't overclocking the CPU then just keeping it below the throttle temp is sufficient and the GPU doesn't need that much rad to stay cool enough.
 

PNP

Airflow Optimizer
Oct 10, 2015
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I don't think the XT45 if you want the 3.5" on the side bracket.

Yeah, I'd feared as much. I suppose ghetto mounting with velcro tape is always an option. Someone who drew up the vibration tolerance spec at WD is screaming.

@WiSK is more knowledgeable about this, but I think you could easily get away with much less rad space. Since you aren't overclocking the CPU then just keeping it below the throttle temp is sufficient and the GPU doesn't need that much rad to stay cool enough.

I'm not sure I'd be able to get away and still have a relatively quiet system though (for a case all about intelligent compromise I sure am trying to have my cake and eat it lol).
 

jeshikat

Jessica. Wayward SFF.n Founder
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Feb 22, 2015
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You could easily have quiet, but you'd have to give up low temps. I'm of the opinion that if the components are within their rated operating temperature it's good enough.
 

PNP

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Oct 10, 2015
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You could easily have quiet, but you'd have to give up low temps. I'm of the opinion that if the components are within their rated operating temperature it's good enough.

True enough. I'd still like to see how much cooling can be squeezed out of the available space.

So it's the end tanks that prevent the 240 Predator and a 240 ST30 from coexisting? What about two 240 ST30s and something like an EK XRES 100 D5/DDC? The ST30 is the shortest 240mm rad that supports G1/4 fittings as far as I know and EK makes a universal bracket that screws into 120 mm fan mounts (in this case, the back of a radiator). I can't really tell from the existing photos since the PSU isn't all the way back and the ST-1000G is 180 mm long, but it looks like there is about 55 mm to be gained in the final implementation with a 160 mm long PSU. Perhaps the pump top could be mounted vertically in the upper front and fit between the RAM slots and the jumble of cables coming out of the PSU?

The video cards would have to be very short, but there's hope for that with the next generation, and RAM clearance will probably be limited.
 

Vittra

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May 11, 2015
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Even if the components themselves can handle the heat, always be mindful that the materials of the watercooling components may not. This is a mistake some people make with their reservoir and tubing selections.

Tygon E1000 is a good example. It was/is praised for being plasticizer free, but it's official operational range is -59C to 51C. Not something I'd personally be comfortable running at 70C for lengthy periods of time.
 

jeshikat

Jessica. Wayward SFF.n Founder
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Feb 22, 2015
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So it's the end tanks that prevent the 240 Predator and a 240 ST30 from coexisting? What about two 240 ST30s and something like an EK XRES 100 D5/DDC? The ST30 is the shortest 240mm rad that supports G1/4 fittings as far as I know and EK makes a universal bracket that screws into 120 mm fan mounts (in this case, the back of a radiator). I can't really tell from the existing photos since the PSU isn't all the way back and the ST-1000G is 180 mm long, but it looks like there is about 55 mm to be gained in the final implementation with a 160 mm long PSU. Perhaps the pump top could be mounted vertically in the upper front and fit between the RAM slots and the jumble of cables coming out of the PSU?

Dual ST30s will fit, though one or the other will need a slim fan to clear the other. I think mounting the pump like that could work.
 

Phuncz

Lord of the Boards
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May 9, 2015
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Even if the components themselves can handle the heat, always be mindful that the materials of the watercooling components may not. This is a mistake some people make with their reservoir and tubing selections.

Tygon E1000 is a good example. It was/is praised for being plasticizer free, but it's official operational range is -59C to 51C. Not something I'd personally be comfortable running at 70C for lengthy periods of time.
To reach 70°C water temperature at an outlet, you'd have to have some crazy hot component considering component temps are usually from below or within the silicon, which is warmer than the water (or air) that transports the heat. In the same way running components can't be below room temperature with the maximum possible cooling.

But your point is valid, tubing is more than just some "hose" that connects the fancy watercooling stuff.
 
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veryrarium

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Jun 6, 2015
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Have additional mounting points on the side bracket been considered? Seasonic likes to put all the connectors for their ATX PSUs up top (top being the side opposite the fan), leaving easily enough space for a ~26 mm thick object. With such a PSU of 160 mm length on the side bracket, I believe there could be some space left for either an additional fan or a 3.5 inch drive.
That may be doable. The ATX PSU isn't up flush against the side bracket because I had to leave enough material on the frame so it wasn't weakened.
I've long been hesitant to ask you about the possibility of more versatile mounting hole (slit) pattern on the side bracket, but now that someone other than me expressed his interest I'm chiming in as well, if the mounting hole pattern on the side bracket isn't finalized yet.
My preference is different from PNP's though, I basically would like the current 105mm/125mm vertically-separated slits to be extended forward and backward (not necessarily seamlessly) so that dual 120mm/dual 140mm fans are mountable. According to the 2014-11-28 sketchup file of yours there is about 277mm from the back end of the bracket up to the point where the bracket meets the side-front lip of the main frame, while the minimum length for dual 140mm fan mounting slits is 280 - 15 = 265mm so dual 140mm (and dual 120mm) mounting slits are possible apart from the question of where to place a PSU. I know it's a late request/suggestion to make, so I'm OK if the current slit pattern goes into the production.
 
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