Yeah i saw this earlier, wish only 5mm of space between my A9x14 and the S4's side panel, I'm alredy cutting it REALLY close so ducting those 5mm will only cause performance and temp and sound issues sadly, oh well.
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Log NFC S4 Mini Classic S4MC #193 "Ant-Man" (7700k/1080mini) *7/11/2020 BRICKLESS 4.2L*
- Thread starter CubanLegend
- Start date
So! An update is in order. I've since done a FEW things to my S4 Mini to make my experience with it THAT MUCH better!
POST-build Mods/Update! [PART 3] Inner Chassis Filing, Front panel tape, smaller wifi antennas, better rubber feet, new carrying backpack! in post #62
1. I had a fan rubbing problem, and came up with a solution!
2. My S4 Mini FRONT panel was bowing and needed new glue applied
3. I wanted and I installed extremely short wifi antennas!
4. I swapped the squishy feet on the bottom of my S4 mini for solid rubber feet
5. I found the perfect backpack to transport my S4 Mini, power brick and accessories safely!
IF you guys have any feedback or suggestions, PLEASE share!
Up next... I've had the JB Weld instant epoxy sitting in my room, waiting to do the "Epoxy Mod" on my HDPLEX-300 coils, to minimize coil whine on it.
I'll be posting before and after videos of it's coil whine while running synthetics and a demanding game, once I have time to sit and do it. I'm a bit nervous about it, so I'll be reading the documentation from the last guy who did it a few months back.
POST-build Mods/Update! [PART 3] Inner Chassis Filing, Front panel tape, smaller wifi antennas, better rubber feet, new carrying backpack! in post #62
1. I had a fan rubbing problem, and came up with a solution!
2. My S4 Mini FRONT panel was bowing and needed new glue applied
3. I wanted and I installed extremely short wifi antennas!
4. I swapped the squishy feet on the bottom of my S4 mini for solid rubber feet
5. I found the perfect backpack to transport my S4 Mini, power brick and accessories safely!
IF you guys have any feedback or suggestions, PLEASE share!
1. the 15mm thick HDD in my S4 mini was bowing my side panel a bit and pushing my 1080 mini down against the edge of the inner S4 Mini Chassis in the GPU hole, causing the outer 1080 mini fan to sometimes rub against it when in a horizontal position. So i had to loosen the side panel a bit to give it 1-2mm of room.
I REALLY wanted to be able to FULLY tighten my side panels and be able to sit my S4 Mini horizontally wihtout any fan rub...
So I decided to pull aside my Frosted Front panel to reveal the GPU hole, it was super easy to do, I just pulled the lower end of the side panel by the GPU hole off, and the glue released it slowly.
Here's how CLOSE the fan is to that GPU hole in the inner chassis, when I put the "top" side panel on that fan gets pushed down and rubs on that edge...
So to fix this I got a huge metal file and carefully filed down that GPU hole on the inner chassis!
then I put it all back together, and as you can see the side panels are no longer loose and bowing, they are FLUSH with the front panel!
2. My S4 Mini FRONT panel was slightly bowing outwards from the middle a bit (I guess the LCDGlue double sided tape was wearing off) So I pulled the front panel over to reveal that it was bowing,
so i removed the old tape and added a new and thicker set of LCDGLUE (i had a 12mm set) on all 4 sides of the GPU hole.
3. I wanted smaller Wifi antennas, that I wouldn't have to worry about when I put my S4 mini in my backpack! So i bought these:
NOTE: I had to break the inner pin inside the new smaller antennas for them to fit.
they're so tiny! I love them!
4. I wanted solid feet on the bottom of my S4 Mini instead of the squishy ones I had before. So I got these rubber feet from Amazon:
These solid rubber feet allowed for a few more mm of air ventilation in the horizontal position.
5. I wanted a new backpack to perfectly fit my S4 Mini safely and my power brick, wireless keyboard and all accessories. So I got this CTA Digital Xbox-One and PS4 compatible backpack:
It fit's perfectly! And although not shown the Dell 330 Power brick fits perfectly on top of the S4 mini, the straps for the power brick BARELY reach around it though, but its secure, the wifi keyboard sits in front of the S4 Mini pocket inside that same compartment.
Up next... I've had the JB Weld instant epoxy sitting in my room, waiting to do the "Epoxy Mod" on my HDPLEX-300 coils, to minimize coil whine on it.
I'll be posting before and after videos of it's coil whine while running synthetics and a demanding game, once I have time to sit and do it. I'm a bit nervous about it, so I'll be reading the documentation from the last guy who did it a few months back.
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Love this. Thank you for the post. It's so satisfying to see all of the thoughtful improvements and modifications you have made to Ant-Man. It is still one of the most notable builds on this forum.
POST-build Mods/Update! [PART 4] HDPLEX-300 Epoxy Mod, PSU Coil Whine Tests, SSD Cable Management, CTA Digital Backpack fitment
1. I had bought some JBWELD Clear Epoxy a while back so I finally had time to do this epoxy mod.
2. While the S4 Mini was open, I did some SATA cable management.
3. I ran coil whine tests before and after the epoxy was applied (Before & After videos included)
4. I finally got all my regular traveling gaming stuff in my backpack to test fit it with my S4 Mini, power brick, keyboard, controllers, power strip & cables!
Up next? Well...
...having been inspired by ceski, DocH, and Reldey, it's:
The ultimate ZOTAC 1080 Mini "Cool & Quiet" Mod, using x2 NFA9x14 PWM (2500RPM versions taken from the NHL9i).
1. I had bought some JBWELD Clear Epoxy a while back so I finally had time to do this epoxy mod.
2. While the S4 Mini was open, I did some SATA cable management.
3. I ran coil whine tests before and after the epoxy was applied (Before & After videos included)
4. I finally got all my regular traveling gaming stuff in my backpack to test fit it with my S4 Mini, power brick, keyboard, controllers, power strip & cables!
===========================
1. HDPLEX-300 EPOXY MOD:
So I started by having to unscrew the inner chassis of the S4 Mini, in order to more easily remove the HDPLEX-300 from the case. THANK GOODNESS I didn't use the LCDGLUE I had on the back of it to tape it to the front bezel of the S4 Mini, as you can see it came up nicely:
HDPLEX was carefully unplugged and out of the case:
Looks clean!
So I started with 1 coat of JB-WELD Epoxy. I squeezed the 2 parts out and mixed them, and applied 1 healthy dab to each inductor coil:
then I waited 20 minutes for it to set (not cure), and then I applied the 2nd coat:
So while the 2nd coat of epoxy was setting, I peeled off the 2 strips of LCDGLUE tape that I had on the back of them, to better mate the backplate of the HDPLEX with my S4 Minis inner chassis. You can see the tape rolled up on the table to the right:
Looks even MORE CLEAN!
Plugged everything back in:
============================
2. But before I plugged it all back in, I did some cable management for my SATA cables..
Before:
After:
============================
3. So I ran coil whine tests:
Unigine Valley DX9 Before:
Unigine Valley DX9 After:
-----------------
Unigine Heaven DX9 Before:
Unigine Heaven DX9 After:
-----------------
Forza Horizon 3 Loading Before:
Forza Horizon 3 Loading After:
----------------
Forza Horizon 3 Intro Before:
Forza Horizon 3 Intro After:
In person it seems as though the coil whine from the HDPLEX-300 still exists but it about 50% to 75% quieter than before!
===========================
4. I finally got all my regular traveling gaming equipment in my backpack to test fit it with my S4 Mini, power brick and cables!
S4 Mini, Power Brick & Keyboard compartment:
When I zip it up I can fit my Official Gamecube adapter and the 4 wavebird receivers on top!
The 4 wavebirds fit just fine with the joysticks loose and not bent, in the 2nd compartment:
And in the front compartment, my Surge Protector, Power Cables, and HDMI cables all reside without problem:
Closed up, the backpack looks great, only a small bulge:
Up next? Well...
...having been inspired by ceski, DocH, and Reldey, it's:
The ultimate ZOTAC 1080 Mini "Cool & Quiet" Mod, using x2 NFA9x14 PWM (2500RPM versions taken from the NHL9i).
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Hey Cuban! When you do this could you do me a fave and see how the 1080 does with the stock wrap around bezel on? It (should) fit with a mm or two to spare if you use the Noctua fans. I'm curious how it does thermally under a 3dMark.
I have a spare set of the higher RPM NHL9i fans I was going to do, and also try out a set of Delta fans I found that are 3 pin, black and go up to 51CFM in case I cant live with the Noctua brown
Im waiting on case bits to come back from powder coating for a while and unsure if I want to crack the cooler off and swap fans, or just wait for Gigabyte to get the 1080 mini to the US.
Funny story, I actually wanted to apply the stock wrap-around after swapping in the Noctua fans onto the 1080mini, BUT... I don't have a stock wrap-around,as there were complications with mine when it was experimented on to try and mill it to fit the 1080mini's stock fans... But, I'd like to buy a stock wrap-around from someone if they have a spare!Hey Cuban! When you do this could you do me a fave and see how the 1080 does with the stock wrap around bezel on? It (should) fit with a mm or two to spare if you use the Noctua fans. I'm curious how it does thermally under a 3dMark.
I have a spare set of the higher RPM NHL9i fans I was going to do, and also try out a set of Delta fans I found that are 3 pin, black and go up to 51CFM in case I cant live with the Noctua brown
Im waiting on case bits to come back from powder coating for a while and unsure if I want to crack the cooler off and swap fans, or just wait for Gigabyte to get the 1080 mini to the US.
POST-build Mods/Update! [PART 4] HDPLEX-300 Epoxy Mod, PSU Coil Whine Tests, SSD Cable Management, CTA Digital Backpack fitment
1. I had bought some JBWELD Clear Epoxy a while back so I finally had time to do this epoxy mod.
2. While the S4 Mini was open, I did some SATA cable management.
3. I ran coil whine tests before and after the epoxy was applied (Before & After videos included)
4. I finally got all my regular traveling gaming stuff in my backpack to test fit it with my S4 Mini, power brick, keyboard, controllers, power strip & cables!
Up next? Well...
...having been inspired by ceski, DocH, and Reldey, it's:
The ultimate ZOTAC 1080 Mini "Cool & Quiet" Mod, using x2 NFA9x14 PWM (2500RPM versions taken from the NHL9i).
Very interested in seeing the Noctua fans cooling the 1080. If it makes it quieter and cooler I'll definitely do it
Sorry I just realized that i never posted a pic of the cooler i mentioned on page 3. Using the cooler with a prolimatech fan.
Have you had any issues with your stubby wifi antennas after you had snap the pin out. I want to do the same and can't really find any short female antennas.
- Jul 19, 2015
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You dont need to break out the centre pin provided you do a little research first. Check if your motherboard has SMA or RP-SMA antenna connectors (im going to guess RP-SMA but check) and purchase your antenna accordingly. Those little stubby zigbee antennas are available in abundance w/ both connector types, you just need to be careful to buy the correct type for your application.
thanks for the post @AP2 , so this is the famed "Titan TTC-NC25/HS coupled with a 120 slim prolimatech vortex fan" you mentioned back in page 3 of this thread...with the SUPER low temps, better than the NHL9i! Hmmm, I see how the heatsink's fins are perpendicular to the RAM thoughSorry I just realized that i never posted a pic of the cooler i mentioned on page 3. Using the cooler with a prolimatech fan.
Have you tried remounting it with the big copper bends that are over the NVME, but turning it so that side is facing the rear I/O shield? You'd have to remove the VRM heatsink on the rear I/O, you might get even lower temps! Could you post pics of the setup with the fan too please? What CPU TIM are you using? Noctua NT-H1? You arent Delidded on your 7700k and you are on stock voltages right? What are your temps on Prime95 26.6 (no AVX) with 8K in-place FFTs after 10 minutes whats your temps please? thanks!
I have not had issues with them at all.
Good point, which one is which? Because the ASUS site doesnt specify which type of antenna connectors they have.
- Jul 19, 2015
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Click for big, you should be able to identify whats on your motherboard from this.
dude this is awesome, people need to see this on the S4 Mini thread, you should post it there!Click for big, you should be able to identify whats on your motherboard from this.
That way we can all find the right version of the small/stubby antenna's for our z270i's and z370i's ! thank you!
dude this is awesome, people need to see this on the S4 Mini thread, you should post it there!
I just bought a ASUS ROG Strix z270i -- do you know which version it has?
- Jul 19, 2015
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- 1,359
Looking at a picture of the mobo it looks like RP-SMA female but your best bet would be to take the picture in the post above and actually look at the board in hand to confirm this yourself
You're right it's definitely a RP-SMA female. Man... Antennas sure are ugly. Maybe it's not even worth it to replace the stock one. The better the performance the bigger the eye sore it seems.
the tiny stubby ones that i bought, that I have detailed and linked up in this thread somewhere... worked just fine for me. Almost no noticeable signal strength loss.
Those are nice, but they use regular SMA.
These are the only ones I could find using RP-SMA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07111BNBB/?tag=theminutiae-20
These are the only ones I could find using RP-SMA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07111BNBB/?tag=theminutiae-20
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