SMA to RP-SMA converters are available, and pretty compact.Those are nice, but they use regular SMA.
These are the only ones I could find using RP-SMA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07111BNBB/?tag=theminutiae-20
SMA to RP-SMA converters are available, and pretty compact.Those are nice, but they use regular SMA.
These are the only ones I could find using RP-SMA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07111BNBB/?tag=theminutiae-20
Stock fan uses rubber mounts with a fixed undersized spacing:
The Noctua fan does not line up with these more closely spaced mounts, so cable ties (or similar) need to be used:
What RAM will you be using by the way? And the LP53 shipping period is 3-6 weeks (got mine in 4) so you'll have plenty of time while you wait for your S4 mini. Good idea with the Delid, if you dont feel comfy doing it yourself, no harm in paying for it to be done properly. The 6700k is a great CPU do you should be all set once its delidded. And by the way GamersNexus did a nice revisit of the old 2600k pitting it against today's top CPUs like the 7700k stock with HT on and OFF, and also with a 5.1GHz OC. And the difference between the stock 7700k and the OCed one... was only like 4 fps out of liek 115 FPs (at 1080p), which is nothing... So the stock 7700k performance is really decent that if you delid it or a 6700k you might not even need to overclock it and can just reap the rewards of a more cool running CPU!
Yeah what @EdZ says below is correct, the LP53's stock fan is WAY too big for the S4 Mini, and the A9x14 is perfect for it once you mount it with zip ties, I've also seen others mount it with rubber bands, but Zip ties are much more secure IMO since you can tighten them down securely click by click.
And regarding your question about if i used other fans with the LP53, I did not. The A9x14 was the only one that I had that would fit inside the S4 mini so i only tested it. I didnt test the 120mm slim scythe or the Noctua Redux I had previously tested with the NHL9i, sorry!
I mean, you'd only end up pushing the A9x14 up towards the S4 mini's side panel if you added any more mounting hardware... it WOULD cause more turbulence and probably lower performance and raise sound due to more wind "wooooshing" close to the case side panel. You could always try beige colored zip-ties like in that Dan A4 picture EdZ posted, it's from the LP53 thread on [H]arcOCP btw, where I learned about the Z270i fitment possibilities. I used black zip-ties because those were the ones I had available, plus they looked nice and stealth like and dont stand out.
Yes, I'm still on the LP53 and NF-A9x14 fan. best combo I've ever tried.you guys still on LP53 andNoctua fan as i am or did you get some improvement with a new different fan/heatsink setup?
cheers
For added pictures of all the above fitment issues and fitment tolerances in more camera angles of BOTH THE VLP Innodisk DDR4 and the BlackRidge cooler, please see my S4M-C album on Flickr here.So... my Blackridge arrived and I jumped the gun on my thermal tests. I redid all the top LP53 CPU tests I had done before (my temps went up by 2c from having done them last year as my LP53 was a little dusty and probably needing a thermal paste reapplication). Comparison of the two coolers:
BUT, installing this thing was a PAIN, I had instlaled the VLP DDR4, I attached my NF-A12x15 to it, and after a lot of trouble, and a couple of minutes of ACTUALY fearing that it wouldn't fit.. I was able to fit the BlackRidge into my S4M-C, but... in only ONE orientation:
Note that the fan was literally sitting against the PCI-E Riser and has to be pushed away from it so the cooler would seat properly, also it was brushing against the motherboards Rear I/O, and it was almost completely covering the VLP RAM, and jumpers on the motherboard below it, making resetting the CMOS jumper a HUGE PAIN. AND on top of this, the fins were perpendicular to the RAM, where in previous cases with other coolers, they've performed better with the heatsink fins parallel to the RAM. Also, note this cooler is 47mm high, which means it will fit inside the S4M-C, BUT the fins will be absolutely flush against the side panel.
But long story short when it came to temperatutes: the BlackRidge was defective on 4-5 of the 6 heatpipes, as can be seen here in this video demonstration of the heatpipe solder snafu that DAN showed us how to investigate for:
..and so, sadly, the cooler dissapointed me.
Test Setup:
-S4M-C with the Side panels ON
-in vertical orientation (power button on bottom)
-room temps were constant 74F (23c)
-temps taken after 10 minutes from hottest core temp unless otherwise stated
TEST__LP53 & NFA9x14 pull vs Blackridge & NF A12x15 push
Idle at Desktop 35c vs 38c
Prime95 26.6 80 vs 82c
RealBench Stress 79c vs 81c
x264 Custom Load 78c vs 82c
Intel Burn Test (Standard) Hottest core after 10 runs 67c vs 70c
AIDA64 System Stress Test 81c vs 84c
Notice, these temps are decent for a defective cooler, as my NHL9i performed about 2-4 c hotter than my LP53, so the defective BlackRidge is basically performing like a more expensive NHL9i, because i had to pay for VLP DDR4, and the NF-A12x15.
I thought I had tested the superior mode (which i thought was push), boy am I glad you suggested I try pull, Here's the new results (good news everyone)!@CubanLegend People are reporting better tempratures with a pull setup on the blackridge. You might be blowing hot air through the radiator with the current setup. Have you tried flipping the fan?
old vs New DDR4 RAM Comparison:
closeups:
the RAM fit perfectly with the new cooler:
Here's my AIDA64 benchmartks:
Corsiar LPX 4000MHz
(19-23-23-45 CR2)
Read: 49644 MB/s
Write: 56790 MB/s
Copy: 46705 MB/s
Latency: 43.3 ns
(STOCK) Innodisk VLP DDR4 2666MHz 1.2v
(19-19-19-43 CR2)
Read: 38152 MB/s
Write: 41103 MB/s
Copy: 36841 MB/s
Latency: 57.2 ns
(OC) Innodisk VLP DDR4 3333MHz 1.392v
(14-18-18-36 394T CR2)
Read: 48632 MB/s
Write: 51818 MB/s
Copy: 46846 MB/s
Latency: 44.0 ns
check it out:
It goes here:
I'll be using this $14 Amazon Rotary tool and Dremel metal cutting bits:
And I've got my #193 S4M-C all taped up and ready for surgery...
Here's the S4M-C CPU-side cut-out process:
started out with pilot holes,
then I carefully cut out the edges of the holes and the taped cut-out line:
As you saw above, the results were great!
LCD Glue on the back of the CPU Vent plate to ensure it holds:
And I taped and cut the skyslot holes on the DiNoc myself:
The Final results looked amazing, look at all those vent holes, and the DiNoc looks amazing from the right angle:
Thank you bro, yeah it's been a while but this build was made to last until early 2027, so it's going to be a long-term project of mine. I'm not selling the case so cutting it for lowered temps and a unique one-of-a-kind PC case, was not only something i wanted, but was fulfilling my goal to adding to the form and function of my portable Movie & Game night PC. I hope your S4 lasts too!Cuban Legend! Man I remember following and reading this thread like a mad man when I got my S4M-C and was copying your build. I wasn’t crazy enough to cut up my case though lol.
So i just unscrew one of the 2 side panels:
After unplugging the PC from power, I unscrew the 2 fans, and the fan shroud, but i can't pul them off yet as theyre connected tothe GPU with 2 cables.. I locate the 2 fan headers on teh GPU the 4 pin is PWM for the 2 stock fans (80mm & 100mm), the 3-pin is for the LEDs. I reach into there with tiny needle nose pliers/pincers and i removed them from under the GPU heatpipes without having to remove the GPU or even the GPU heatsink.
Here's the 1080 with the stock fans/shroud removed.
Here's a mockup of the 2 fans, the Nocua y-splitter, and the GELID MOBO-to-GPU fan header adapter:
Here's the fans installed and running:
How did i keep the fans pushed against the ZOTAC 1080 mini heatsink and away from the sidepanel for maximum quiet and performance/airflow? I ziptied the fans to eachother, then used 1 ziptie to keep the bottom of the fans down, on the left hole of the right fan, note the arrows, i attached it to the lower GPU heatsink. I kept the TOP of the ZOTAC 1080 mini down by using 2 pieces of 8mm squared of neoprene i got from Josh with i bought my S4M-C, to push the fans away from the side-panels, using the 120mm fan mounting holes on the S4M-C (see the 2 lines in the pic below).
And here's the final result:
and that was it, any questions, please feel free to ask!DISCLOSURE:
So the tools i used to accomplish this were:
staples (to extract PCIE mini-Fit pins)
JB Weld Quickweld (to strenghten the inner chassis after cutting it)
Bernzomatic Butane portable Soldering Iron & Butane Fuel (to solder some wires i shortened, and to heatshrink)
some heatshrink i bought at Home depot (to electrically isolate modded wiring)
Liquid Elextrical Tape (for additional electrical isolation of the C6 Connector)
and some m2.5 screws and standoffs (for the C6 connector mounting)
So first, I needed to buy an HDPLEX 400W AC-DC (the new v2.0 is thinner and SHOULD fit in the inner chassis) to see if it would even FIT.. so I bought the AC-DC & DC-DC 400W combo, just to support Larry.
Here's the 400w AC-Dc next to my current external DELL 330W brick (.7L)
When the AC-DC arrived I test fitted it inside one of my spare Silver S4MC's, ..and it fit!
So how would i get it to fit.. I'd need to do a few things.. 1st..
I'd need to cut a HOLE here on the bottom of the inner chassis, so the HDPLEX AC-DC could fit through it and touch the wrap-around bezel.. this would turn out to drop the rigidity of the inner chassis, requiring some simple JBweld brackets to stengthen the inner chassis. And i would need to make a SUPER low profile PCIe 8-pin power cable, which means, a Mini-fit pin extraction, and cable heatshrinking has to be done with my butane torch on my Soldering Iton.
I measured the HDPLEX surface and started cutting away with my $12 Amazon Rotary tool!
After some widening out of the hole, the HDPLEX 400W AC-DC would slide right into the S4 Mini Classic's inner chassi, with no issue!
Now to adress the issue of the GPU needing to be SHIFTED DOWN towards the motherboard about 15-20mm.., here's how far it needed to go.. it would be super close to the CPU cooler, and the PCI-E Riser would be nestled UNDER the CPU cooler lol.
While trying to fit the 1080 mini and push it down, one of the heatpipes was contacting the HDPLEX 300 DC-DC and i needed about 2-3mm more room, so i flattened the heatpipe on the ZOTAC 1080 mini in that spot with a hammer. Heatpipes can be flattened about 60% and still function properly, if done right, so i just SENT IT and hammered away carefully. IT WORKED!
Next was the Low profile cabling for the PCI-E 8-pin power. I used the cheap extraction method of using flattened staples to extract the pins, and i got them all out, I marked them with paint marker to note their position, and I seperated the 2 sides for better low profile-ness.
-Note I marked the cables first with marker, but then i used numbered heatshink bits and i paired them up to know where they go.
Then I put some electrical tape on the top of the HDPLEX 400w AC-DC and then some gaffers tape on to to minimize wire movement.
Next was the C6 connector, it needed to have a hole cut for it to fit in the back of the S4MC, so I used a mechanical pencil and that $12 Rotary tool to cut the hole, and a drill to drill the m2.5 sized holes for the mounting screws.
I ended up shortening the C6 connector wire from the HDPLEX 400W AC-DC, i BENT the pins to make it more low profile, soldered them back for strength, heatshrunk the ends, and i replaced the gaffers tape pictured.. with 4 layers of Liquid Electrical tape.
This is where you need to strengthen the inner chassis, I used an old credit card i cut up to make brackets, I filed down the surface of the inner chassis and the credit card, to make the JBweld mate better (note once this was done, to install or uninstall the AC-DC or the GPU, i had to unscrew that half of the inner chassis from the motherboard tray, as it was too stiff to flex out of the way:
Here's the fitment of the c6 connector and the HDPLEX 400W AC-DC & the 1080 mini fitment, I ended up mounting the c6 EXTERNALLY to dissalow physical contact with the back of the HDPLEX which would cause issues.
Here was the external Nylon m2.5 threaded standoff (6mm) for the C6 connector:
Here's the connector mounted, there's aout 1.5mm between the back of the connector and the S4MC side panel.
The Blackridge didn't fit, so i switched back to the LP53 and the NF-A12x15, which fit's wonderfully with my VLP DDR4
The TIGHT fit between the HDPLEX 300 DC-DC, the power button and the 1080 mini, was so TIGHT, i had to install the power button on the wrap-around bezel like this below: and then i would slide it up and over the 400W AC-DC and screw it into the back of the inner chassis.
For more step-by-step details.. i have to install the power button on the front panel with the 2 main inner chassis potions separated like seen below.., then push the dc-dc against the power button and in towards the motherboard, and then reconnect the inner chassis, then i ROTATE the wraparound using the power button as the point of rotation.. and then carefully push down on the AC-DC to fit the wrap-around bezel over it, then when it's in place, i screw the rear 2 screws on the wrap-around to the inner chassis..
Here's the entire setup before installing the wrap-around bezel
And for those curious about the back of the S4MC after all this.. the ZOTAC 1080 Mini DOES have the bottom Displayport no longer usable due to the exreme 15mm+ of GPU shift i needed
AND, some may wonder, how did i do this in an S4MC without a GPU SHIFT bracket?.. I just went Bracketless, i unscrewed the Bracket and friction mounted the 1080 mini inside the case, it doesnt move because its literally squished between the PCIE-bracket and the HDPLEX 400W AC-DC
Thanks @seven7thirty30 coming from you.. and your pedigree of custom S4M builds, I must say.. I am honoured you appreciate it!Great build. Love the classic S4M
Dang, thats some bad as* modification of the S4M-C[PART 9] S4 Mini Classic #193 (Antman) HDPLEX 400 AC-DC Brickless mod!
So.. I've done the impossible! And have documented every step for you all to replicate it!
I spent the last 3 weeks working out the world's first HDPLEX 400W AC-DC “Brickless” config in an S4 Mini Classic! Based on the layout from the newer S4M's 5.0 liter layout, but inside the more restrictive 4.2L layout of the S4 mini Classic.. because of that sweet, sweet, Aluminum Wrap-Around Bezel!
Here's the details inside of this quote:
and that was it, any questions, please feel free to ask!
..
Here's the completed build minus the side panels! S4MC Brickless , 7700k, ZOTAC 1080 mini, HDPLEX 300 DC-DC & HDPLEX 400W AC-DC .. if you look you can see where the JBweld was added, and it worked!
Side Panels closed:
..
I'll be using this build for the next few years, it can also house and power an undervolted 10600k and a 2070 Super if needed.. and as new RTX 3000 cars come out on a suspected 8nm process, less power usage should allow future ITX cards to fit as well!
In the future.. I plan to wait for benchmarks of the ID-COOLING IS-47K cooler (rated at 130W TDP) and if it fits, I'll upgrade to it and do a temp comparison against my blackridge.