Diesel Engine (ITX / SFF / Console) - COMPLETE!

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
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122
...but pretty much every CAD software can export to .dxf, and most of them (AutoCAD, Inventor, Fusion 360, CATIA, Solidworks, FreeCAD with sheet-metal plugin) do all the calculations to convert the folded model to a flat pattern for you.

But hey, whatever works :)

I think you are probably 100% correct, but I'm unfamiliar with most CAD packages and probably did things 'the long way' this time. Some guys told me to check out FreeCAD so I think that's what I'll do next. I wasn't aware of the sheet metal plugins, so thanks for that - I'll check those out too.

i'm renaming this case project qbert.

Ha ha. My work colleagues said exactly the same thing. thanks dude.
 

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
44
122
Power!

A big part of building small form factor computers seems to be about figuring out how much power you will actually need, before trying to pick from a wide array of power options. I think there is a general trend where people over-estimate how much power thier system uses, insisting that anything under 500W isn't going to cut it. It turns out that is mostly wrong, especially if you choose efficient components and also strip away all of those bits that you probably don't need (optical drives, hard drives, additional PCI cards + case parts that require dedicated power).

After reading a bunch of bit-tech articles on CPU and GPU power consumption of various similar components, I calculated that anything above 300W should be sufficient, but a 400W or 500W would give my system more 'wiggle room' and operate more comfortably.



Pico PSU - I discovered Pico PSU early on. They have an external power brick that converts the AC mains to DC. Then an adapter inside the case splits the voltage to the required components. I think though, that the highest Wattage they support is about 160-200W, which simply wasn't going to be enough for me. Though, this looks like a reasonable choice for anyone with a HTPC-type system and doesn't have a dedicated GPU (or has very low power GPU). Seen here is an example of the power brick and adapter. Note the power brick isn't very pretty either!





SFX Form Factor - On the other end of the scale, Silverstone have some super powerful supplies in a small form factor. The smallest volume they have is 100mm x 125mm x 63.5mm(I think!), which is available up to 600W! For quite a while I contemplated using one of these supplies and was trying to figure out how I could orientate the supply and components inside the case, without wasting valuable space. Positioning the PSU next to the other components would waste space in at least two dimensions. Event positioning the PSU behind the other components would add extra height and depth to the console that I didn't want.



Flex ATX / 1U Power - Then I came across the standard form factor for server power supplies. These come in wide variety of shapes and sizes and you'll see the names "Flex ATX", "1U" or "2U" used to describe server power supplies. While I do know 1U and 2U refer to single and double height supplies, I'll admit I'm still unsure if flex ATX is the same as 1U!

Either way, they're all 40mm in height, which is very close to the 'flat' height of any GFX card you might see and also pretty close to the height of a motherboard with stock cooler and standard RAM. The width and length of these power supplies vary A LOT, but the smallest comes down to about 81mm in width and 150mm in depth - which again, is pretty close to the 170mm depth of a ITX motherboard and the 150-170mm length of a graphics card. They also come in Wattages from 100W up to about 500W (if you can get your hands on one). The 350W and 400W specced models are quite common though, and sufficient for what I wanted to do.


A 40 x 81 x 150 Flex ATX PSU




Be Aware that many 1U supplies are the larger 100mm Width or are very long!



Other 1U supplies also do NOT ship with standard cables or are hot-swappable units. Check before buying!


In the end I purchased a 400W Flex ATX supply from FSP. The power should hopefully give me enough room to operate comfortably without over-burdening the PSU. The manufacturer also came highly rated, so we'll see how it fares!


Last Note: I discovered HD-PLEX after I purchased the power supply. Which seems to be the basis other modders have built small form factor PC's with dedicated graphics. Another power brick style solution that provides much more power than Pico PSU. Something to consider for the future!
 

jtd871

SFF Guru
Jun 22, 2015
1,166
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@QinX prototyped a bespoke system using Thin mITX and a GTX970 with watercooling powered by an HD-PLEX (which needed custom tinkering of the PCIe socket), if I am recalling correctly. There is a thread for the H20 Micro project on this forum, but there may be more complete versions of the log on Hardforum and OCN.
 

iFreilicht

FlexATX Authority
Feb 28, 2015
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freilite.com
Nice write-up! There are also FlexATX and 1U PSUs that only output 12V, no 3.3V or 5V rail at all, you really need to make sure you get the right one for your use case.

While I do know 1U and 2U refer to single and double height supplies, I'll admit I'm still unsure if flex ATX is the same as 1U!

They are not, but some shops refer to FlexATX as Flex 1U or just 1U confusingly. Technically, FlexATX is still suited for 1U rackmount servers, so that might be where that's coming from.
As you said, those PSUs vary in width and depth, and the former is where FlexATX and 1U differ. FlexATX is always 81.5mm wide, while 1U is 100mm wide.
Generally, FlexATX is most commonly available in lengths of 150mm and 190mm, I've never seen any longer than that.
1U is available in a range of lengths between 190mm and 260mm. There are probably shorter or longer ones out there, but I couldn't find any in the course of 3 Minutes.

Oh and BTW, the exact height if FlexATX and 1U PSUs is 40.5mm, which is rather important for the 40mm fan.
 

Ceros_X

King of Cable Management
Mar 8, 2016
748
660
Also doing research for a build of my own - one way you can get more power in a Pico sized package is by using an HD Plex 250W Power supply with a 300W+ laptop power supply (like the Alienware dell bricks or the 350W HP firebird ones). Though the power supply is rated for 250W, many people have run it at 300+ comfortably as long as it is adequately cooled. It has a peak power of 400W.

The other thing I have seen many people mention about the Flex ATX PSUs is that they tend to sound like a jet taking off under load. Some complain about coil whine on the HD Plex boards, so I guess nothing is perfect. Don't know if you had observed that in your research or not. Interested to see your project continue and nice write up on power options.
 

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
44
122
Generally, FlexATX is most commonly available in lengths of 150mm and 190mm, I've never seen any longer than that.
1U is available in a range of lengths between 190mm and 260mm. There are probably shorter or longer ones out there, but I couldn't find any in the course of 3 Minutes.

Oh and BTW, the exact height if FlexATX and 1U PSUs is 40.5mm, which is rather important for the 40mm fan.

I see, thanks for the info! That makes more sense why I was getting better results searching for "Flex ATX" as opposed to "1U". "1U" was bringing up all sorts of results. You really are the authority on Flex ATX :D


I love the annotated concept art you put together! It's got personality.

Thanks! :)


Also doing research for a build of my own - one way you can get more power in a Pico sized package is by using an HD Plex 250W Power supply with a 300W+ laptop power supply (like the Alienware dell bricks or the 350W HP firebird ones). Though the power supply is rated for 250W, many people have run it at 300+ comfortably as long as it is adequately cooled. It has a peak power of 400W.

The other thing I have seen many people mention about the Flex ATX PSUs is that they tend to sound like a jet taking off under load. Some complain about coil whine on the HD Plex boards, so I guess nothing is perfect. Don't know if you had observed that in your research or not. Interested to see your project continue and nice write up on power options.

Right! It seems people are getting quite a bit of power from the HD Plex setups. Pretty crazy. That HP firebird is very flat tooo....

About the noise of Flex ATX PSUs. Yeah, I'd heard the same complaint too, it's a result of the tiny 40mm fans that sit at the front and back of the PSU. I think it also obviously depends on how much power you're trying to draw and what the ventilation is like. If my PSU turns out to sound like a jet engine. I will probably turn the top of the PSU into a custom mesh cover and install an slim 10mm thick fan above it (80-120mm in size). I have exactly 10mm if space between the PSU and the lid so that might work. It's a last resort though.
 

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
44
122


Manufacturing the Shell

I started researching companies that would be able to take my CAD files in DXF format and manufacture the case parts for me in sheet metal. I started looking at a few big companies in the US, including the company who's software I was using. But after a few emails to thier rep, it became clear that they would require the design to be as flat-packed as possible, otherwise the shipping cost for the parts was going to be huge. I got some advice from a fellow modder on this forum and contacted in a bunch of smaller companies in the south of the UK, where I live.

After chatting to a few local sheet metal manufacturers, it became clear I had a few options regarding how much work I wanted them to do. Generally, the less work that needs to be done by the manufacturer to setup the file and the design, the cheaper the cost. As a result, I did all of the design work and took all the responsibility for the fitting and measurements of the parts. I found there were 3 main options:

Most expensive: You provide a 3D model or non-technical drawing. The company re-creates the design in 2D CAD and translates your idea into a complete product

Average cost:You provide CAD designs that require tweaking/modification before manufacture. The company products the final product

Lowest cost: You proved exact CAD designs that require no additional work. The company doesn't build the product, but just produces the finished parts


I spoke to a few guys that would take my files and supporting documents and produce the parts for me at a reasonable cost. It turned out being able to have a few phone conversations with a local company was great. They even recommended the specific type of mild steel (Zintec) and the thickness required.


A few weeks later, I got an email that the parts were ready and a very excited me went to go and pick them up :D

Seeing something real for the first time, after it only existed on my computer screen for many weeks. Totally awesome...


The stainless steel spacers take standard M3 screws. They won't be seen when the panels are on


The metal was laser cut directly from the DXF file, so matched perfectly to my paper model


The PCIe bracket bend. Worked out really well!


The button bracket assembly


The SSD Bracket. Driving a PC case screw through the holes created the thread itself.
The holes turned out to be a great fit for this purpose



I started to test-fit the components that I had


The Motherboard I/O panel. Looking better than my paper case fitting :D


I threaded the holes for suporting the PCIe card


I purchased some 12mm deep M8 hex brass bolts to try out. I created the thread and slotted them in to test the fit


And there it is. Naked, and with no lid or base. But it's coming together! It feels great to see the edges and angles in real life.
I'm also super chuffed that everything fit together so well.
It's going to be so small! ha ha.






In the next update...

This is what I was up to while I was waiting for the case to be completed. More detail on the wooden lid and base soon. I spent a bunch of time trying to find thin-solid wood. It's so much better looking than plywood and other man made boards.
This was my first attempt using guess-timated laser power settings for the etch + cut.



 

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
44
122


Wooden Lid + Base

When I started searching for materials to use for the lid and base of the console, I knew that plywood and other man-made boards weren't going to have the look that I needed. The problem with that was, natural wood boards aren't usually supplied in the very-thin thicknesses that I would require for the console. I also found that nearly all suppliers sold natural wood boards in standardised plank widths (usualy between 100mm-200mm plank widths), which was pretty frustrating because the console measures about 207mm across the short edge.

In the end, I found a company that sells 'furnature board' for furnature makers. It comes in Pine or Oak and is professionally glued end-on-end to provide really wide (and thin) natural wood boards. The thinnest sheet that they had was 6mm thick - which was about right for what I needed, so I purchased some of this in Pine.


Lasers - I also spent a bunch of time figuring out how I was going to actually make designs in the lid so that it both looked great and allowed enough airflow for the components. Since all the components are layed flat, the airflow of the lid was crutial to allow the heat to rise up and escape. I searched online for laser cutting services, which threw up a bunch of results in the UK. But a friend told me about a local 'hackspace' where the idea is; you pay a monthly fee and gain access to a whole range of support and machinery that would cost any individual a lot of money (too much for a single project). It turns out they have a couple of laser cutters, a small CNC machine and a bunch of other metal and wood working machinery that I could use myself - result!


I cut a sample of the boards to 450mm in length to try out my first lid design


The wood is great. It's great quality and looks and smells like fresh pine


Before I got the board cut, I wanted to check the total height quickly


With the 6mm pine boards, I'm at 62mm high in total - not bad! :)
(so thats 50mm internal space plus two 6mm boards)



This is my first design for the lid. I'm going to take it down to the Hackspace and see if we can cut it!


Annnnnd, we did it! The pine was a odd material to cut because it varies in density around the knots and grain of the wood.
Some parts took a couple of runs before the laser made it through



The contrast of the black lasered edges against the fresh wood looks great. You can also see to the right here, some of my curves were not actually cruves, but very small straight lines - I need to fix this before I try again.


The base was also cut. It contains mounting holes for the shell and the hardware
Exact-positions I might add! If I've done all my measurements correctly, everything should slot into place



I did a test-build to check everything fit together OK. First the L-brackets


A close up of the L-brackets


Then I slotted the shell onto the brackets and screwed it in


A close up


I placed the lid on and was happy to see the lid screw holes lined up for my brass bolts


It's still 'naked', but I'm chuffed that it fits together so well


The back view


And the scale shot against those meatballs



A Quick Graphics Check!

To finish up this post: I borrowed a small form factor Graphics Card off a friend, who had a few lying around. I just wanted to check the fit and see how much room I had when I pulled a random card off the shelf.


The mounting at the back was really tight, but I got it in and it feels really solid!


Space inside the case pretty-much lines up with my 3D model and expectations, which is great.


 

Ceros_X

King of Cable Management
Mar 8, 2016
748
660
Awesome! What length/brand PCI-E riser do you plan on using? This build is looking great.
 

iFreilicht

FlexATX Authority
Feb 28, 2015
3,243
2,361
freilite.com
Good progress, looks like it's coming together nicely! I just understood how you managed to make the case this thin even with 6mm panels on the outside. 50mm of internal space is very little, congratulations on achieving that! Now let's mount a bit of hardware in that beauty :D
 

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
44
122

PCI-E Riser Cables
I had a bunch of options when choosing a riser cable and I continued on research that I had started when I built my wall-mounted PC. The difficulties with the console build would be bending the cable into the small space and making sure that it actually worked, operating so close to the underside of the graphics card and edge of the motherboard.


Option 1 - Buy another Premium Shielded Riser from 3M. However, they are very expensive and I was concerned that I simply wouldn't be able to bend the cable into place in such a small space. My wall mounted build had big bends in the cable and I was able to appreciate just how thick the cables are.


Option 2
- Try to manually shield, an unshielded cheap cable again. These cables are super cheap. But when I tried this before, it worked fine, then didn't work, then worked fine again, then stopped working completely. These cheap cables are so hit and miss. I don't think this would work so close to my other components. Also, the contacts aren't very strong, which is something that was immediately obvious when I got my hands on the more premium cables



Option 3
- Buy one of the cheaper, but still premium shielded cables that exist online. I was tempted by these ones that are sold on ModDIY.com . They look to have re-enforced contacts and thick shielding


Option 4
- I discovered another brand of premium shielded cables from a few members of the small form factor forum. Li-Heat cables seem to be reasonably priced and they come in a couple of different styles that have 90 degree angled ends in a few orientations. This seems to dramatically reduce the space required to bend the cable around and into place. This was looking like it was going to be perfect for what i need, so i ordered a 285mm length B. type cable through facebook directly from the company.


I tested the fit inside the case to see how tight the cable can be against the edge of the case. I have to say, it's pretty dam close! I think it's going to fit really well. The only thing left to do with the riser is design a few strips that will pin the cable to the bottom of the case below the GPU.

More small updates soon!
 
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you have already bought a riser i guess but the HDPLEX one might be what your looking for. @iFreilicht has done some testing w/ one in another thread and it would appear you can fold it pretty tight just fine
 

Chris Howell

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Diesel Engine
Jan 17, 2016
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122


Woody McWoodwork


I started the process of staining the wood to get the antique effect that I wanted. The fresh wood was a nice start, but I needed something that would complement the brass. After searching online for coloured waxes, I found out that the most common technique for colouring wood was dye or 'stain'. There is a bunch of videos on YouTube of guitar makers using wood stain to sunburst thier guitars. So I purchased some small sample pots and gave it a go!

At the same time, I had to work out some weaknesses in my first lid design. Some of the holes were too close together and were causing the top-left section to be rather unstable. I needed to adjust the distance between each of the holes and redesign the location of some of the pattern.

I purchased some "Light Fast Stain" and used a rag to apply the dye to the wood


My first session with the watered down 'Antique Yew' colour, plus a bit of after-sanding


I came back the next day and wacked some 'Black' around the edges, then applied some neat Yew to blend it in


A bit more sanding to achieve the weathered look. And I wiped it down with a sponge to get rid of the excess


After I was done, I really liked the look of it. So I went down and lasered my V2 lid design into it.

The V2 lid, back on the console


The design gets lost quite a bit amongst the black, but it looks great here. Nice knots!


I spent quite some time looking at the second version of my lid. I looked great, but I lost a lot of the laser design in the black dye and I wasn't sure it was going to match the brass panels when I put them on. I realised the 'burnt and weathered' look is quite modern and I failed to make it look antique-ey and steampunk-ey. Lots of the sunburst guitars I looked at used the black, orange, white sunburst. It was just too modern!.

So I bought some 'Rosewood' dye and set about my lid v3 design. This time I would sand it less and not distress the wood as much either.

First layer of the 'Antique Yew' again


About to cut the lid. You can see a softer colour transition and less sanding


Mid way through the job


Aaannnnnnd. The final result for V3. I think this is the one :clap:


Both lid and base together


A close up :) Looks good!


Another close up!


I finished the job by covering the inside of the console panels with the 'Rosewood' colour


A close up of the base. The colour really IS nice. It looks very antique to the point where you wouldn't recognise the original colour.


After the stain dried completely. I sealed both parts with some clear oil. This prevents stain and protects the wood.

.......Meanwhile in another part of town..