Chimera Industries Cerberus: The 18L, mATX, USA-made enclosure

MarcParis

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Apr 1, 2016
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@KSliger shared on twitter that he is working on it along other cases (during Christmas break). It should land in 2020.
We expect Cerberus adjusted to mini ITX motherboard...entering in direct competition of Ncase M1..:D
 
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Prothea

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Aug 26, 2018
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I'm down for a Cerberus Mini, but I think there's an open slot in the market for a traditional layout 14-15L case that is slightly more compatible with GPUs/coolers than the M1. We've seen a few sandwich cases in this size bracket, but they never seem too space efficient for my liking.

If we could get a case similar to the M1 but with a bit extra room for longer and taller GPUs, I'd be all for it.
 
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Boil

King of Cable Management
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Nov 11, 2015
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I am curious if the Cerberus Mini is going to be a smaller Cerberus, or if they are just adjusting the motherboard tray to be mITX / mDTX only, with room for radiators above & below the motherboard, which some have modded to in the past; I guess that would require the PSU to be over the motherboard...?
 

MarcParis

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Apr 1, 2016
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I am curious if the Cerberus Mini is going to be a smaller Cerberus, or if they are just adjusting the motherboard tray to be mITX / mDTX only, with room for radiators above & below the motherboard, which some have modded to in the past; I guess that would require the PSU to be over the motherboard...?
To be honest, no clue here...:D
I like to keep surprise..:D
 

zugok

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Finally got my Cerberus X build mostly complete.Very slow build as I was waiting for various parts.

This is a replacement for my "suped-up" Dell Optiplex 990 MT

Parts in the build:
  • Cerberus X Case
  • Asrock x570 Taichi
  • Scythe Fuma Rev. B CPU cooler.
  • Ryzen 2700X (cheapo $130 placeholder until Ryzen 3950x $ drops)
  • PNY Geforce RTX 2070 Blower
  • 4 x G.SKILL 16gb6 DDR4 3600 CL16
  • Corsair SF750
  • 4x Corsair ML120
  • 1x Corsair ML140
  • Scythe Kaze Flex 120mm
  • Noctua NF-B9 PWM
  • WD Black nvme SN750 1TB Boot
  • Toshiba SATA X300 5TB Storage
Build Notes:
  • The Cerberus X case is quite fragile if handled WO the panels, especially once all the hardware is installed.
  • To build, I installed the fans and PSU as well as manage cables first. Separately I assembled and tested the MB, CPU, ram etc, and fit the entire assembly into the case to install.
  • Designed and 3D printed my own HDD drive mount, cheaper than the metal one and allowed me to orient the drive to fit w a 140mm bottom fan
  • I was able to fit two ML120 in the front under the PSU after I removed about 4mm from one of the fan housings
  • To minimize noise and save money I made my own vibration dampers w thin sheet rubber squares sandwiched between the fans/drives and case.
  • Designed and 3D printed a blower-housing for the top front mounted ML120. With it installed there is a noticeable increase in airflow directly to the CPU cooler.
  • I bought the Demci Filter's for the case but found they are very ugly and don't use them. IMHO they are not worth the $.

I have not finished setting up CPU and ram clocks yet. IMHO more complex than Intel, hard to find info on good speed settings for 4 sticks of dual rank dimms other than it is much slower. The ram seems stable at ~3200, the CPU stays reasonably cool at 4.05 to 4.1 clock. I suspect I will end up w and CPU at ~4.0 GHz and 3000 Mhz for stability and heat. wonder w a 3950X I could run the ram a bit faster, not sure...?

Currently it is about as fast as my Dual Mac Pro in rendering, and much faster for small operations.

Below are pics comparing it to the Dell 990MT it is replacing. I really like the size of the Dell, thankfully the Cerberus is close in size, in a market filled with giant "whale-like" cases.




 
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MarcParis

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Apr 1, 2016
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Finally got my Cerberus X build mostly complete.Very slow build as I was waiting for various parts.

This is a replacement for my "suped-up" Dell Optiplex 990 MT

Parts in the build:
  • Cerberus X Case
  • Asrock x570 Taichi
  • Scythe Fuma Rev. B CPU cooler.
  • Ryzen 2700X (cheapo $130 placeholder until Ryzen 3950x $ drops)
  • PNY Geforce RTX 2070 Blower
  • 4 x G.SKILL 16gb6 DDR4 3600 CL16
  • Corsair SF750
  • 4x Corsair ML120
  • 1x Corsair ML140
  • Scythe Kaze Flex 120mm
  • Noctua NF-B9 PWM
  • WD Black nvme SN750 1TB Boot
  • Toshiba SATA X300 5TB Storage
Build Notes:
  • The Cerberus X case is quite fragile if handled WO the panels, especially once all the hardware is installed.
  • To build, I installed the fans and PSU as well as manage cables first. Separately I assembled and tested the MB, CPU, ram etc, and fit the entire assembly into the case to install.
  • Designed and 3D printed my own HDD drive mount, cheaper than the metal one and allowed me to orient the drive to fit w a 140mm bottom fan
  • I was able to fit two ML120 in the front under the PSU after I removed about 4mm from one of the fan housings
  • To minimize noise and save money I made my own vibration dampers w thin sheet rubber squares sandwiched between the fans/drives and case.
  • Designed and 3D printed a blower-housing for the top front mounted ML120. With it installed there is a noticeable increase in airflow directly to the CPU cooler.

I have not finished setting up CPU and ram clocks yet. IMHO more complex than Intel, hard to find info on good speed settings for 4 sticks of dual rank dimms other than it is much slower. The ram seems stable at ~3200, the CPU stays reasonably cool at 4.05 to 4.1 clock. I suspect I will end up w and CPU at ~4.0 GHz and 3000 Mhz for stability and heat. wonder w a 3950X I could run the ram a bit faster, not sure...?

Currently it is about as fast as my Dual Mac Pro in rendering, and much faster for small operations.

Below are pics comparing it to the Dell 990MT it is replacing. I really like the size of the Dell, thankfully the Cerberus is close in size, in a market filled with giant "whale-like" cases.




Here are a few pics of the case w the dual fans installed in the front below the PSU, as well as how I managed cables.


Pretty interesting build, thanks for sharing it.
I appreciate a lot your front air duct to provide fresh air to fuma.
Why have you considered noctua c14s (intake fan) or rear 92mm watercooling option?
 
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zugok

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Hey Marc, thank you for your response and feedback.

The front duct fits onto the front fan with 2-3mm clearance from the adjacent parts, video card etc. It also serves to hold the PSU cables out of the way.

I did consider the Noctua C14S, but went with the Fuma because I hoped to have a more linear path for air flow front to back. Additionally, where the PC is located that will be little-to-no airflow from the side.

Water cooling seems interesting, but I want the predictable stability that air cooling has. As you can see I use systems for many years (both of the others are almost 10 years old..) so long-term use without maintenance is important to me. I have read that water cooling may need more frequent maintenance, than simple fans.

I plan on designing and printing a small duct (small barrier) for the top fan too. I am also in the process on making a small USB-C and Audio Jack bracket that can be mounted on the front or top holding cables that run from the back plate or internal sockets.

When time allows I have a few ideas on different 3D printed front face covers that might allow for better airflow as well.

Cheers

JH
 
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MarcParis

Spatial Philosopher
Apr 1, 2016
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Hey Marc, thank you for your response and feedback.

The front duct fits onto the front fan with 2-3mm clearance from the adjacent parts, video card etc. It also serves to hold the PSU cables out of the way.

I did consider the Noctua C14S, but went with the Fuma because I hoped to have a more linear path for air flow front to back. Additionally, where the PC is located that will be little-to-no airflow from the side.

Water cooling seems interesting, but I want the predictable stability that air cooling has. As you can see I use systems for many years (both of the others are almost 10 years old..) so long-term use without maintenance is important to me. I have read that water cooling may need more frequent maintenance, than simple fans.

I plan on designing and printing a small duct (small barrier) for the top fan too. I am also in the process on making a small USB-C and Audio Jack bracket that can be mounted on the front or top holding cables that run from the back plate or internal sockets.

When time allows I have a few ideas on different 3D printed front face covers that might allow for better airflow as well.

Cheers

JH
Explanations are pretty clear...:D

You are right, even if you choose customed watercooling (AIO DIY, like my 92mm setup), it requires more maintenance than dust cleaning and/or fan replacement. Air coolers are still kings on maintenance/reliability.

Regarding your abiity to mod, my only advice will be to relocate psu at the bottom and leave front top space for intake fan (120/140)
 
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zugok

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Hey Marc.

I did consider relocating the PSU, but it is more work than I feel I need to do at this time, and it would interfere w the MB.

Cheers and great work on your builds as they have been helpful for me.

JH
 
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MarcParis

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Hey Marc.

I did consider relocating the PSU, but it is more work than I feel I need to do at this time, and it would interfere w the MB.

Cheers and great work on your builds as they have been helpful for me.

JH
I guess of a simple mod for psu located at bottom, inspired by a recent mod.
Use Corsair atx to sfx plate and screws from Intel asetek retention kit.
 
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zugok

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I guess of a simple mod for psu located at bottom, inspired by a recent mod.
Use Corsair atx to sfx plate and screws from Intel asetek retention kit.
Thanks for the suggestion.

I saw that mod, don't remember if the PSU fan draws air from the inside, all the pics are gone?
Although I did not fully test it, the CPU power cable might not be long enough to reach the plug on the MB?

Anyway, I am comfortable with it for now. Perhaps when I install a 3950X (and/or faster GPU) later on I can re-consider it.

Cheers

JH
 
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MarcParis

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Thanks for the suggestion.

I saw that mod, don't remember if the PSU fan draws air from the inside, all the pics are gone?
Although I did not fully test it, the CPU power cable might not be long enough to reach the plug on the MB?

Anyway, I am comfortable with it for now. Perhaps when I install a 3950X (and/or faster GPU) later on I can re-consider it.

Cheers

JH
No issue..you will see..:) r9 3950x is not that crazy to cool...it’s not an oc core i9 9900k..:)
 
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sn0man

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Jan 10, 2020
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Hey Marc, thank you for your response and feedback.

The front duct fits onto the front fan with 2-3mm clearance from the adjacent parts, video card etc. It also serves to hold the PSU cables out of the way.

I did consider the Noctua C14S, but went with the Fuma because I hoped to have a more linear path for air flow front to back. Additionally, where the PC is located that will be little-to-no airflow from the side.

Water cooling seems interesting, but I want the predictable stability that air cooling has. As you can see I use systems for many years (both of the others are almost 10 years old..) so long-term use without maintenance is important to me. I have read that water cooling may need more frequent maintenance, than simple fans.

I plan on designing and printing a small duct (small barrier) for the top fan too. I am also in the process on making a small USB-C and Audio Jack bracket that can be mounted on the front or top holding cables that run from the back plate or internal sockets.

When time allows I have a few ideas on different 3D printed front face covers that might allow for better airflow as well.

Cheers

JH

As far as 3D printing goes, I have no idea how you go from idea to design. I was thinking about a couple ideas if you are into them.
1.) an L-bracket for a GPU support. It would be a flat piece that mounts to the front grating of the Cerberus X just below where the power supply hangs, then it could jut straight reward. Put a tiny piece of adhesive foam on it and adjust it while the case is on its side. Could help with GPU sag. Could be a place to next excess length of GPU cabling and keep the lower front free for a 120mm or even 92mm if you had to go that low (your GPU was that large or something).

2.) a duct that goes on the outside of the case under the cover to right air sideways out of the case. What I envision is a Cerberus X config with a lower 120mm fan set to exhaust air out the front. The problem with that is above it is the power-supply-unit (PSU) pulling air inward and so you're just feeding the PSU with warm air. If you had a pair of low profile ducts they could act as a shroud or guide for air. The lower duct could route air out the right side, and the upper duct could route air in the left side. They would have to be low profile enough to fit underneath the front face/cover. That might be too restrictive for air or cause some howling or other audible noise though.


Hey Marc.

I did consider relocating the PSU, but it is more work than I feel I need to do at this time, and it would interfere w the MB.

Cheers and great work on your builds as they have been helpful for me.

JH
Yeah Marc's build and various iterations are inspiring. Always good to see what he's done and to pick his brain for advice. JH, your build is nice as well.
 
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sn0man

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Jan 10, 2020
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I guess of a simple mod for psu located at bottom, inspired by a recent mod.
Use Corsair atx to sfx plate and screws from Intel asetek retention kit.
Marc, are you going to try this? I bet a 120mm upper intake would really keep the CPU nice and cool (and consequently quiet for us air coolers).
 

MarcParis

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Apr 1, 2016
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Marc, are you going to try this? I bet a 120mm upper intake would really keep the CPU nice and cool (and consequently quiet for us air coolers).
I guess not.
I’m very pleased with my front psu..:)

My current wonder is how a 92mm watercooling is handling a r9 3900x/3950x inside Cerberus-X. I’m convinced it should be ok for stock.
My concern is that most of 92mm watercooling (645LT) is mostly used in too crammed cases like Dan A4 or Sm series, where 645LT is far from its optimal performance..:)
 
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zugok

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Nov 29, 2019
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As far as 3D printing goes, I have no idea how you go from idea to design. I was thinking about a couple ideas if you are into them.
1.) an L-bracket for a GPU support. It would be a flat piece that mounts to the front grating of the Cerberus X just below where the power supply hangs, then it could jut straight reward. Put a tiny piece of adhesive foam on it and adjust it while the case is on its side. Could help with GPU sag. Could be a place to next excess length of GPU cabling and keep the lower front free for a 120mm or even 92mm if you had to go that low (your GPU was that large or something).

2.) a duct that goes on the outside of the case under the cover to right air sideways out of the case. What I envision is a Cerberus X config with a lower 120mm fan set to exhaust air out the front. The problem with that is above it is the power-supply-unit (PSU) pulling air inward and so you're just feeding the PSU with warm air. If you had a pair of low profile ducts they could act as a shroud or guide for air. The lower duct could route air out the right side, and the upper duct could route air in the left side. They would have to be low profile enough to fit underneath the front face/cover. That might be too restrictive for air or cause some howling or other audible noise though.




Yeah Marc's build and various iterations are inspiring. Always good to see what he's done and to pick his brain for advice. JH, your build is nice as well.
Hey sn0man, thanks for the feedback.

My process for 3D printed parts is
  1. Usually start with a quick doodle, some measurements for clearances via calipers & rulers.
  2. Build the 3D mesh in Modo with the Dimensions Tool active.
  3. Export and 3D print.
  4. Sometimes do minor adjustments and reprint depending upon the issue.
As per your suggestions:
#1 Seems simple to make, assuming you don't use the full front for fans like I have? Would not a metal bracket from the hardware store also work?
#2 This is an interesting idea and I will give it more thought. I think you are correct that airflow might be very restricted using the stock front cover and result in noticeable air noise? With the front cover in place you might not need a full duct. Never the less, a more practical consideration might be a replacement front cover that allows for better airflow and has the duct built in?

Cheers

JH
 
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