SMALLEST ATX CASE : CERBERUS-X (Complete build log)


Shrink Way Wielder
Original poster
Apr 1, 2016
Hi all,

As some of you knows I've the chance to be one of the first owner of awesome KI Cerberus-X, bigger ATX brother of standard Cerberus.

KI Cerberus-X dimensions are 364 x 170 x 354mm (21.9l)..whereas the smallest ATX I know is Fractal Design Define C 399 x 210 x 440mm (36.9l)..that's somehow 50% gap (depending of calculation base).

My case is still a pre production sample, with some minor flaws...but it was 100% worth to go for it...this KI Cerberus-X is simply gorgeous, amazing...:)

This build is still a prototype (not functional). I wanted to know what was I was able to integrate in it.

First let's compare size versus Node 202, mini ITX case from Fractal Design. This case is pretty small while in horizontal stand (10.2l), however in vertical stand (due to large base), its dimensions become 125 x 385 x 332mm (15.9l) will be shocked with comparison with Cerberus-X vs Node 202 (vertical stand) :

Let's continue with prototype build.

Due to its increased height vs standard Cerberus, Cerberus-X is more friendly with watercooling. Thanks to infinite vents, i can place 240mm rad at the bottom with the maximum offset possible! I'm going to use Swiftech Apogee Drive II to finish my watercooling loop.

However placing tubing on front panel will cause some proximity with a sfx-l I need to go for SFX psu (corsair 600W I guess).

One important to check was also GPU height compatibility. I'm using one of the tallest (but quiestest) gpu : MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X...that has NO offset on power connector (dislike newer version like GTX 1080 ti gaming x). Using low profile extension from, it works just fine. There is also enough space for SLI bridge.

Now, my biggest concern begins : what will I put inside this wonderful case...It's pretty hard for me to resist on Ryzen...I'll try to resist...but for how long?..:D

O...I nearly are photos lol :

GPU clearance :

ps : Please note that black panel was a pre production mistake...but I love this mistake : mixing red & black is gorgeous!

Update 09th May 2017
(It's just a sum up, please above link to have more details)

This build is 100% functionnal, not perfect, but still great...and here is the summary.

So here is the setup :
  • Motherboard : Asus Crosshair VI Hero
  • CPU : AMD Ryzen R7 1700X (I had a good deal, buying it at same price as R7 1700)
  • RAM : G.Skill Flare-X 3200Mhz C14 (Samsung b-dies)
  • Storage : M.2 nvme Samsung 950 Pro
  • PSU : SFX Corsair SF600
  • CPU cooler : noctua U9S (using AM3) + dual NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM
  • Bottom fans (Intake) : dual fractal design venturi HP-12 PWM
  • Rear fan (exhaust) : Noctua NF-A9 PWM
Building inside Cerberus-X is pretty easy and straight forward, however I noted several minor small issues :
  • I was unable to fit motherboard back i/o shield. This one is specific to high end asus and includes some foam...even on classical cases I struggle to put it in place with motherboard.
  • except if you have a long and thin philips screw driver, you have to dismount SFX psu bracket to screw PSU. The same is true to plug AC extension
  • my AC plug with 90° elbow is to too tall for the case so top panel cannot be in position
  • So I'm eager to receive SFX AC extension and also USB 3.0 front panel cable..:)
  • Definitely labeling power button cables (led and power) is a must do for serial release..:D

Here are photos of the build:

here is the issue of top panel :

And here is the complete build :

Update 15th May 2017
(It's just a sum up, please above link to have more details)

Well, well, here is a major update of my "sweet" Ryzen 7 1700X setup..:)

Here is the setup updated :
  • Motherboard : Asus Crosshair VI Hero
  • CPU : AMD Ryzen R7 1700X
  • RAM : G.Skill Flare-X 3200Mhz C14 (Samsung b-dies)
  • Storage : M.2 nvme Samsung 950 Pro
  • PSU : SFX Corsair SF600
  • CPU cooler : noctua C14S (using AM3) + dual NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM intake (cpu cleaned with Artic Cleaner)
  • Thermal Paste : Grizzly Kryonaut
  • Bottom fans (Intake) : dual fractal design venturi HP-12 PWM
  • Rear fan (exhaust) : Noctua NF-A9 PWM
BEWARE, BEWARE, after this line you will witness ULTIMATE AIR CPU cooler for Cerberus-X..:D

Clearly Noctua C14S, with dual 140 PPC @2000rpm is bulky..:D
Good news is that I have enough high clearance to still use Flare-X with dual fan! Without saying that RAM is pretty damn cooled!
On back panel I'm still using NF-A9 as it has short cable, very handy for cable management. Also its brown color is not too disturbing as side bracket is masking it..:)

I've put 140mm fan on side bracket for 2 reasons :
  1. Side bracket is stiffening the whole case steel frame (without it I found case a bit too flimsy)
  2. Side bracket is perfectly aligned with side panel vents (maximasing intake flow)
Here is the result with MSI GTX 1070 GAMING X installed :

I've a lot improved cable management compared to previous build. Now case is cleaned, and I like final result.

There is also enough space to do any sli setup, even with SFX-L psu.

I've also added some pci vented brackets (as one provided with pre-serial production are quite dull..:))

Complete tour : Front

Back panel :

To finish in beauty, here is a closed look at this gougeous NF-A14...

As a direct result, I was able to improve my overclocking completely stable up to 4.02Ghz @1.45v and RAM 3520mhz @ 1.40v (Ok, ok, I'm unable to cold boot with this OC..:))...but one mystery remains is CPU temperature. Between t°j or tCTL, I'm seeing all kind of informations..:) My next goal is now chasing this damn CPU temperature.
Update 22th May 2017 : Cool & quiet, RAM Overclocking
(It's just a sum up, please above link to have more details)

It's time for a new major update.
Main target was to get rid of this offset temperature that AMD included in their Ryzen with XFR (1800X, 1700X and 1600X).
As you may know, AMD is adding something like 20°C (when cpu is on load) on temperature. That simply means that with same settings a R7 1700 will run at 70°C whereas R7 1700X will run at 90°C...that's a pain for ears..:)
Biggest issue is at idle where my R7 1700X is always at 65°C...if I'm opening a web are ramping up like hell as Asus MB/software are putting fans at 100% at 70-75°C...damn!
For info, Ryzen Master is properlly monitoring cpu temperature. Even HW or HWinfo were wrong also...

I was starting to become desperate till I remembered of my sweet Corsair Commander mini.

when I was looking at Corsair commander mini solution, Corsair was not yet supporting Ryzen (Corsair Link software rev 4.6). That's exactly when I discovered the perfect software to handle Corsair Commander mini, as Corsair link software is clearly one of the worst I've ever used..:D
This life sayer is SIV (System Information Viewer). It's developped by red-ray, an independant developper. This software is really fast to load, light and really powerful! The only difficulty is to get used to user interface...but tutorial is quite easy to follow.
Thanks to this software, we can link all fans connected to Corsair Commander mini to any temperature detected by SIV...and that's the key feature, because SIV is detecting the proper Ryzen Temperature (clearly it's more complex than just an offset of 20°C)!

I tested Corsair Commander Mini outside the Cerberus-x as a trial...but as it was a really successful one, my main goal was to update my setup...:D
Currently the only drawback on this solution is that Corsair Commander Mini is using the only one USB 2.0 internal header on my Asus Crosshair VI Hero. This will be solved as I received USB 3.0 from KI.

So here are updates :
  • I decided to use only 1x140mm fan (the one coming from Noctua C14S) at bottom. Dual 120mm, so far away from GPU are useless (confirmed by early testing on OC GTX 1070).

  • Infinite vents are clearly really useful to tie straps..:) I attach Corsair commander mini on the front panel with dual velcro. I also put some straps for cable management
Final assembly is pretty clean, and very effective!

My dear mock up area..:D

Update 22th May 2017 : Overclocking results
It's not surprise that Ryzen has difficulties to overclock RAM.
I tried many overclocking parameters (spent most on my sunday...and my wife was far from being happy of that..:)) I almost finish really frustrated.

In fact here what I noticed :
  • From cold start (computer stopped), I was unable to OC RAM higher than 2933, 14-14-14-34. These trials were really time consuming and led me to a dead end.
  • From cold start (computer stopped), I'm able to OC RAM up to 3520Mhz 16-16-18-36 (my max frequencies rght now) after going to bios, save it and reset computer
  • Once on Windows, if I put to sleep (not hibernate) computer while OC RAM @3520Mhz, it is waking up with absolutely no issues..:D I can also reboot/restart computer with no issues at all.
Conclusion : My RAM sticks don't like overcloking from cold start. As sleep mode is still powering RAM modules, that's why sleep mode is working really fine with overclocked RAM. I guess I've tamed Ryzen OC, reaching a stable, cool & quiet Ryzen 7 1700X @4.02Ghz + RAM @3520Mhz + GTX 1070 @2025Mhz (real frequency in game)..:D

I hope you enjoy this build log!

Update 09th August 2017

Here is long awaited major update of my KI Cerberus-X..:D

Aim of this upgrade was mainly to use reverse side panel as it's the best cooling setup for my GPU : MSI GTX 1080ti gaming X that exhauts its hot air on the side of the case.
However, while placing side panel with vents on bottom, this is removing all intake of fresh air on aircooled CPU.
Thus I've decided to try again my original setup (at least the one planned before my pump failed), using watercooling and a 240 radiator located at the bottom of the case to cool cpu.

On top of that, I've upgraded my Corsair SF600 SFX psu to Silverstonetek SX800-lti SFX-L. This upgrade was mandatory as my SF600 was too loud while gaming, where full system can use 450w+. My previous tweak on airflow was pretty effective while using GTX 1070, but it's far from being enough while using GTX 1080ti.

Let's jump into details.

First, here is the sum up of my setup :
  • Motherboard : Asus Crosshair VI Hero
  • CPU : AMD Ryzen R7 1700X, OC @4025Mhz, @ vcore : 1.525v
  • RAM : G.Skill Flare-X 3200Mhz C14 (Samsung b-dies), OC @3467Mhz, cas 16 (@1.40v)
  • Storage : M.2 nvme Samsung 950 Pro 512go
  • PSU : SFX-L Silverstonetek SX800-lti (800W, Titanium)
  • CPU Waterblock/Pump : Swiftech Apogee Drive II (using AM3/AM4 bracket). Combination of Apogee HD waterblock + full laing DDC pump (MCP35X)..:)
  • Radiator/Reservoir : Swiftech MCR H220 radiator, 240mm radiatoir used in H220 AIO (back to 2013). You can use Swiftech MCRx20-QP as alternative
  • Radiator fans (Intake) : Dual LEGENDARY Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 (1850rpm, managed through DC)
  • Rear fan (exhaust) : Noctua NF-B9 Redux PWM
  • Side fan : Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM
  • Tubing : 10/13mm Rajintek RAITUBO-T3 (transparent), length between 35-40cm each
  • Fitting : XSPC straight
  • Clamps : Phobya
  • Liquid : Demineralized water+EK Cryo Red (250ml approx in total)
Let's start build log..:)

1st Step : Create watercooling setup

My approach of watercooling has been always towards compact system, whit good maintenance capabilities. Thus I dislike using standard components with separate elements. I didn't want to use AIO as, from my experience, their pump power, noise & efficiency are not really good...not even speaking of their radiator with aluminium fins (thanks to Asetek to bring AIO market down....)
Hopefully, Swiftech Apogee Drive II survived this Asetek/Swiftech legal conflict..because this is my masterpiece! Indeed this represents the exact combination of Apogee HD waterblock AND full Laing DDC pump with PWM customised by Swiftech (MCP35X). This is bringing one of the best watercooling components in a compact form factor!
Reservoir has always been space consuming...but vital when you need to remove air bubbles from a loop. That's why Swiftech combo Radiator/Reservoir are so great for compact watercooling.
For my setup I've recycled my old Swiftech MCR H220 (out of stock), but you can use Swiftech MCRx20-QP, that @Aibohphobia tested inside Cerberus.

Normally I'm using some quick disconnect from Koolance...I wanted to stay simple. My only aim was to be able to remove my GPU while keeping watercooling setup in place...

Globally my choice of watercooling components is leading to the best of two worlds : compact with high end performance.

When creating a customed loop with compact watercooling loop, the most difficult part is to bleed air bubbles out of the system. To do this, you need both an air trap and a powerful pump..:D

With MCP35X + reservoir, it was quite fast and effective..:D (about 10minutes at pump full speed, ie 4500rpm)

2nd Step : Replace PSU

This step is straight forward, except if you don't have a long and thin philips screwdriver (my case..:)). To replace SFX PSU, i need to remove front PSU bracket (1 screw on side, 1 screw on front, on each side).
Not too complicated either way...:)

3rd Step : Full assembly

Now it's time to put back all components inside Cerberus-X..:D
I've placed 240mm radiator on bottom with dual Gentle Typhoons AP15 in pull configuration. This is best setup for dust cleaning..:)
Thus bottom radiator is acting like air intake, and GPU that is located above is acting as exhaust.
Rear 92mm fan is placed as an intake. I still wonder if I'll put some dust filter on it, as my cats don't go often behind the case..:D

As expected (and required), I can remove/add GPU while CPU watercooling setup is in place..:D

All fans are managed through Corsair Commander Mini, located on front panel.

4th Step : Optimize CPU area airflow

As I have freed a lot of space about CPU, using watercooling, I discovered that SFX PSU is generating quite a lot of heat on its back side. This hot air needs to be cooled or/and exhausted.
Currently I've tried several possibilities :
  • Noctua NF-A14 PPC or standard fan on side bracket

However this solution is putting too much stress on tubing
  • Noctua NF-A9x14, either 15mm thick 92mm fan from Noctua on side bracket
This is my current solution, but I'm not completely satisfied, due to color scheme and fan orientation (it's not fully horizontal..:))

So I'm still working on this area, and I will keep you informed..:D

5th Step : Let's play!

Well I've run some intense CPU benchmarks...and they are all disappointing...almost...:D
With my new setup I'm able to reach a stable and safe OC of 4.025Ghz with vCore @1.525v (set in Bios)...By comparison, with my Noctua C14S i was able to reach only 3.900Ghz stable and safe (I was able to get higher clocks but not safe enough on temperature).

What about temperature then?..:) Well CPU temperature is reaching a maximum of 68°C under Prime 95 (large FFTs, 10min), X265, 4K compression.
This temperature is achieved while MCP35X pump is spinning @1200rpm (really, really, really quiet) and Gentle Typhoon @1000rpm (really quiet also)

Such, computer is really cool & quiet under heavy CPU load..:D

Silverstonetek sx800-lti PSU is pretty impressive also, and it's clearly quieter than SF600 under load..:D No coil whine to report on my sample.

ONE last point to note is that I was able to put back on ALL my GPU overclocking setup (Power +117%, core +60Mhz, vram : +350Mhz), and I prepared you some 4K60 sample videos of gameplay, with a tons of informations about system...:D
Please pay attention to GPU power usage...:)
  • Classical 3D gaming load at 4K : Doom Vulkan, max settings
  • Extreme 3D gaming load at 4K : Mass Effect Andromeda, Havarl (GPU power ~320W)

6th Step : Special Photos
Before giving you access to imgur gallery, I wanted to share some special photos..:)
Long live Apogee Drive II..:D



Thanks to Intel Burn Test v2.54, I managed to figure out that my R7 1700X can reach (stable) a frequency of 4014Mhz @1.525v vCore. I'm staying on this 1.525v because my watercooling setup is able to maintain cpu temperature under T° die of 70°C (Threshold before throttling and potential damage on long run).

Edit : Finally my R7 1700X is only stable @4000Mhz @1.525v...:)

Now I wanted to push my RAM harder on both CAS or frequency.

Thus I tried :
  • 4014Mhz on R7 1700X + RAM @3618Mhz Cas 16-16-18-36 @1.45v....but it failed :

  • 4013Mhz on R7 1700X + RAM @3514Mhz Cas 14-14-14-34 @1.45v....but it failed :

  • 4020Mhz on R7 1700X + RAM @3600Mhz Cas 16-16-18-36 @1.45v....BLACK SCREEN..:D
  • 4014Mhz on R7 1700X + RAM @3594Mhz Cas 16-16-18-36 @1.45v...VICTORY!
  • But second trial led to BLACK SCREEN after 9/10 runs...damnit.:) so close..:D
  • Finally I reduced R7 1700X to 4000Mhz @1.525v and set RAM @3600Mhz 16-16-18-36 @1.45v...and I got 2x10 runs stable :

I managed to achieve a stable RAM @3600 cas 16...:D

Globally I'm more than happy to reach 4000Mhz on R7 1700X and 3600Mhz 16-16-18-36 on RAM...AWESOME..:D

You can follow my performance on :

Update 18th August 2017

New update on hardware side of my setup.
Based on my last setup, CPU area of the case was missing a bit of air cooling to my taste. I could also add that it was not really pretty.

Thus I've decided to :
  • Replace rear Noctua NF-B9 Redux by Noctua NF-A9 PWM (to match color theme) + dust filter
  • Replace Side Noctua NF-A9x14 by its bigger brother Noctua NF-A12x15
  • Add new Noctua NF-A12x15 fan on top, in exhaust mode
I found final result gorgeous..:D Finally I'm getting used to Noctua Brown theme..:D

Currently I've setup NF-A12x15 fans at fixed 800rpm...but I'm thinking to switch to a fan curve following GPU temperature.
Same logic for rear NF-A9.

At last, I'm testing magnetic dust filter on SX800-lti

Forecasted change is to replace my sweet Gentle Typhon by new incoming Noctua NF-A12, presented on last computex 2017. They are promising, clearly inspired by Gentle Typhoon bigger motor...

Wait & see..:D

Update of 23rd August 2017 : Overclocking RAM with Ryzen (sleep mode is the key)

I wanted to share some experience I've faced, actually today, while OC my Ryzen R7 1700x and Flare-X RAM.

Let's sum up experience :
  • Previous days :
    • Standard OC : R7 1700X @4Ghz and Flare-x @3600Mhz cas 16
    • I'm using Sleep mode between 2 gaming session
    • perfectly stable (~10hours+) on Pillars of eternity
  • Yesterday evening :
    • I tried to hibernate (instead of sleep mode)
    • While in hibernate mode, RAM is no longer powered
  • This Morning :
    • When Cerberus-X woke up this morning, RAM OC failed and I needed to reboot my PC to reapply my standard OC...PC booted and resume previous sessien of hibernation with no apparent issue.
    • In Pillars of eternity, after 10-15 of gaming, in a specific area (everytime) I experienced the following
      • Game crashed and it went back to windows 10
      • I relaunched the game and this time, at the same location I got a marvellous blue screen..:D (apparently driver IRQ failed)
      • I reboot with same OC, launched again the game...and, for a second time, blue screen...
      • I reboot applying 3900Mhz OC on R7 1700x, still 3600Mhz on RAM, launched again the game...and, for a third time, blue screen...
      • I reboot and resetting all parameters to default (Standard R7 1700x and RAM @2400Mhz), launched again the more issues..:D
      • PS : I could have clear CMOS to clean the bios.
  • Day after :
    • I cleared CMOS, reapplied my standard OC (required 2 reboot as warm-up..:))
    • In Pillars of eternity i went straight to place where crash/blue screen occured...but I experienced no crashes/blue screen. I did several trials...nothing wrong happened
    • I tried to put PC in sleep mode and woke it...load the game...but I expercienced no crash either..:)
Here are my current conclusion :
  • Apparently Hibernate (with failed boot up) corrupted somehow bios/ram
  • On Ryzen, currently, it's impossible to OC RAM (I mean massively) while using cold boot or hibernate.
  • When Ryzen setup is shut down (but still powered), you have to "warm up" your RAM with first boot that will lead, almost 100% of time, to failed RAM have to enter bios, reboot...and only after RAM OC is working fine.
  • After in windows, if you don't want to redo all "warm-up" process, you have to put your computer on sleep mode (as RAM is still powered during sleep mode)...and based on my experience, it's working just fine.
Please also note that you should follow this simple rule : DO NOT UNPLUG your Ryzen setup...otherwise you will face a really long bios post (rebooting 3 times in my case)...and of course, after this initial long bios post, you need to do some "warm-up" to OC your RAM..:D

I've the feeling that OC Ryzen properlly currently (mid 2017) is like driving a car with mechanical gearbox car whereas on Intel side, OC is like driving an automatic gearbox car..:D

At the end it's working...but you need more efforts..:D

Update 10th September 2017

Here is new update of my setup.
As I shared with several topics, I was trying to make a full watercooling setup (both cpu and gpu) in Cerberus-X. My main issue was related to temperature, rpm and noise from my MSI GTX 1080ti Gaming X used :
  • Aircooling setup#1 (Noctua C14S as Intake, 1x140 fan on front, 1x140 on bottom)

  • CPU watercooled (exhasut of cpu radiator is GPU intake)

Thus I dismantled the full case...and only motherboard and top fan remained in position.

I confirmed that it's perfectly possible to use dual 240mm radiators in Cerberus-X. One in front using 15mm fan outside the frame (using screws of 3/4" or 20mm), and second in bottom. However, due to tight size of Cerberus-X, tubing became major issue.
In my personal case, it would be difficult to use Apogee Drive II while using rear mounted PSU, even SFX/SFX-L...indeed it was too complicated in my allocated time and ressources.

Thus I decided to put back my Noctua C14S, but this time, in EXHAUST mode. Target of this new, rather simple, setup was to optimize at its maximum case airflow : intake at bottom (with no filter, infinite vents are enough there), Intake from rear (like WC setup), exhaust on side & top.
Final result is simple and straight forward.

This top & exhaust fan is one the keys..:D

What I didn't expect was cooling/temperature simply impressed me.
Of course, i'm forced to get back to 3.9Ghz (even, there is only 5°C on cpu load between Noctua C14S and my customer loop...however customer wc is quieter on load...but louder on idle, even with its very quiet pump). However gaming performance was not harmed, especially @UHD/4K..:D
Compared to watercooled cpu, issue was related to GPU intake air was CPU hot exhaust air...This setup was great for cpu cooling, but really harmful on GPU side.

Globally, this setup is the best one I've produced.

Let's me prove my statement with 2 videos of Mass Effect Andromeda, in an area where GPU power usage is 300W+
  • Video I've posted while using cpu watercooled : GPU @85°C, fan RPM @2500-2600rpm (pretty hot and noisy)...but have also a look at VRM (59°C), SSD 950 Pro (54°C), Flare-X (55,5°C)
  • New video with new setup (optimized case airflow) : GPU @76-77°C, fan RPM @1700-1900rpm (fan noise is completely acceptable at this range)...and VRM (42°C), SSD 950 Pro (41°C), Flare-X (46,3°C)

I let you make the maths between before and after...:D Results are cristal clear.

Let's focus now on CPU cooling.
Here are intel burn test results with new aircooling setup
  • Ryzen R7 1700X OC 4000Mhz @1.525v and Flare-X @3600Mhz : failure, black screen reboot with bios warning that max temperature reached. However T° die is reaching somehow 77°C during benchmark...that illustrates that Ryzen max temperature (when speaking of T° die) is 70°C. As a comparison with my watercooling setup, test was successful (double pass) and max temperature was 68-69°C with dual typhon spinning @1600rpm (still quiet)
  • Ryzen R7 1700X OC 3900Mhz @1.435v and Flare-X @3600Mhz : Intel Burn Test is successful, and max temperature reached is 68°C on peak, time for fans to speed up. Average temperature during testingh was 61-62°C with Noctua 140 fans spinning @1500rpm on average (noticeable). By comparison, on my watercooling setup, R7 1700X was reaching 60°C, just because fan started to spin faster @60°C..Gentle Typhoon fans were spinning @1000rpm (really Quiet)

Clearly watercooling setup was far better for cpu cooling, however, as a global cooling solution, aircooling is better..:D

Thus as a conclusion, to all Cerberus owner, forget CPU watercooling (except you are planning a workstation), and focus mainly to have the best airflow inside Cerberus-X.
I must admit that I'm still amazed by those temperatures and efficiency!
Also please note that I'm a lucky guy (ok I'm a rare Cerberus-X owener) but also I found this cooling setup by "chance" as I was planning to make a full watercooling loop..:D

Update 19th November 2017 : Back to watercooling!

Well, well, well...
You already know that I love with my Apogee Drive II. Somehow it was a pain to keep it in a carton box as I struggled a lot to get it and make it work...:)

I had also the feedling that Cerberus-X could offer a great cooling capability...and I felt satisfied with my noctua C14S but not satiated...

I also wanted to know if my customed AIO was really a AIO..:D

Serial release of Cerberus is inspiring me..:D

For all these good and bad reasons, i went back to watercooling on CPU..:D

This time I will fight hard to keep GPU temperature and fan speed at lowest as possible whereas I'm using a watercooled CPU...with a radiator located at the bottom.
Let's call this watercooling 2.0 as I applied quite a lot of changes.

But first here some pictures :

As you can see, airflow setup vs my first attempt is really different.


  • CPU Waterblock/Pump : Swiftech Apogee Drive II (using AM3/AM4 bracket). Combination of Apogee HD waterblock + full laing DDC pump (MCP35X)..:)
  • Radiator/Reservoir : Swiftech MCR H220 radiator, 240mm radiatoir used in H220 AIO (back to 2013). You can use Swiftech MCRx20-QP as alternative
  • Radiator fans (Intake) : Dual LEGENDARY Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 (1850rpm, managed through DC)
  • Top Fan : Noctua a12x15 (slim 120mm fan) placed in exhaust
  • Rear fan : Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM placed in intake (with filter)
  • Side Panel : Vents oriented on the top (vs bottom on first setup)
  • Side Fan : Noctua a12x15 (slim 120mm fan) placed in exhaust (vs intake vs plain panel...)
  • Front panel : Addition of a 120mm LEGENDARY Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 (1850rpm, managed through DC). This addition is completely new!
  • Corsair Commander mini : It is now located on the motherboard panel, just below bottom radiator and front fan

  • I also add a UPS : Eaton Ellipse Eco 1200 (1200VA/750W)..very useful while updating bios and/or gaming..:D

It's too early to have to have all benchmarks ran...but initial results were interesting..:D
What I'm sure of, is that setup is far quieter in CPU stress than my previous aircooling solution..:)

I'll keep you informed asap..:)

Update 16th December 2017 : Best fan for watercooling arrived!

My precious arrived!!
Here they come : Dark Side Gentle Typhoon 2150rpm (DC control)...
I took a couple of minutes to put sleeve on them and i must say : I love them for their...
  • Look

  • Noise, even at 2150rpm...and I'm a bit ashamed for Noctua PPC 2000 for comparison, Noctua fan are really noisy!
  • Cooling efficiency : of course, these sweet gentle typhoon are the best on radiator (only EK vardar, Fractal HP12 are reaching this kind of level of performance but with higher noise level)
In final, they look marvellous inside my dear Cerberus-X!

When i see current fan market, I consider to be lucky as now fan needs to be RGB first, instead of aiming best performance/noise ratio.

I just hope they come back to true life in a way or another.

Update 26th January 2018 : Top panel dust filter

Beginning of 2018 I nearly thought I had nothing to add on my sweet Cerberus-X.
I was looking to extra storage (still under study), but finally I went to simple home made dust filter for Cerberus Top Panel.

Reason is pretty simple : my cats love to lay on Cerberus top...but they brought with them some liter particles...that are falling inside Cerberus...not really acceptable.

From this status, I had 2 choices :
  • Keep my cats away from Cerberus...mission impossible..:)
  • Adjust a dust filter somehow...that the way I went
I used that 140mm dust filter as base (in fact 3 of them) :

Thus I joined 3 of these dust filters (aligning holes on overlap area) and here is the result :

Sorry for average quality of photos, but i wanted to highlight alignment on overlap areas.

Final result on Cerberus-X is pretty cool...

Of course, no real impact of temperatures as my main exhaust fan remains the one on side bracket.

I hope this will help you!

Update 28th April 2018 : New Panels & Color scheme, Front USB 3.0!

4 Months without noticeable update...that's a feat for me!
While resisting to update my Ryzen R7 1700X with a Ryzen R7 2700X (maybe R7 2800X will have me..:)), I've received some gifts from @KSliger ! (thanks again!)

Thus I decided to honor them by assembling them today!

  • First Update : Front USB3.0, instead of my pre production USB 2.0 (unused as my internal USB 2.0 port was used for Corsair Commander Mini)
As I feared, I cannot plug my USB 3.0 directly to my motherboard as my 240 Radiator/Fan located at the bottom will bump into it. Thus I used a slim USB 3.0 extension from that I was using on my Nano² setup.

PS : note that you have to detach front SFX psu in order to pass through the hole USB3.0 header.

  • Second Update : New Panels & Color Scheme
As some other Cerberus users, i received Windowed panel. I took this opportunity to try a new color scheme.
I let you discover it..:)
Top & Front panels : Black

Side panels : Red

I would like to know your point of view.
  • Third Update : Refill watercooling loop & cleaning
I also decided to refill my watercooling loop and clean the cas as it was required.
Now tubes are transparent again and liquid is truly RED..;)

Here is final look, on my desktop!

And of course, CATS are not far away...

Update of 10th February 2019 : Cerberus-X turned into storage warhorse
Since couple of weeks/months I was wondering how to add to Cerberus-X storage role.
Indeed i dedicated all usable storage space to cooling (radiator, commander mini, fans, etc...).

I thought to add some nvme m.2, but only true slot was available (second pcie 16x with 8x/8x while shared with gpu) and also nvme drive are so great for storage as they required pcie connection (motherboard or thunderbolt).

Finally I decided to go for sata m.2 as they are easy to use outside a case...but I wanted to avoid any new cable (sata or power).
Thus I used PEX2M2 card that manage up to 2 m.2 sata drives, directly connected on pcie slot!

Second issue on this card was its port : PCIE 4x 2.0. As my crosshair VI hero has only 3xpcie 1x 2.0 and 1xpcie 4x 2.0 (it's a 16x), I decided to test on pcie 1x 2.0 directly...just above my GTX 1080ti..:)

With 1 SSD, pcie 1x 2.0 bandwitdh is clearly enough :
I expect speed to but in half on transfer rate between m.2 sata SSD located on be checked when I'll add one.
Even MX500 1to temperature (while GPU is not loaded) is perfectly fine, reaching 67°C under heavy benchmark.

Next steps are
  • Get another m.2 sata drive (most probably Samsung 860 Evo 2TB) to put on PEX2M2
  • Get another m.2 nvme to put on pcie 16x (8x/8x) with low profile adapter card...I may wait for arrival of new pcie 4.0 models that sounds promising


Update of 17th February 2019 : Cerberus-X Horizontal stand

As spring is coming, I decided to revisit completely my desktop layout.
Target was to merge/use my gaming setup (Cerberus-X) with my older desktop computer (AMD apu A10-5700K in sugo SG07).

As I wanted dual monitors (Dell U2407WFP 24" 1200p VA-2008 & LG 27MU67B 27" 2160p IPS from 2016) setup, i was forced to remove cerberus-x from my desk (damn refresh rate of older monitor captured by camera...:)):
Have a look at the total setup :

Read more on above link!

Ryzen R7 1700X Multitasking capabilities
Here is a simple and impressive example of multitasking capabilities of my R7 1700X.

I was able to run a quiet & smooth experience running at the same time the following :
  • Encoding UHD video, 60fps, 100mbps using power director 12 (8 threads used at maximum)
  • Playing World of tanks online, in UHD, 60fps, max settings
  • Recording in UHD, 60fps, 100mbps my World of Tanks gameplay in live using shadowplay

Result is simply marvellous and is summarized in one simple video :

Ryzen is impressive!
Photos Albums
Here are link to photos albums :
Last edited:


Jul 19, 2015
I seem to have a few photos not available, getting a horizontal bar within a ring.. o:

But oh yeah! Looking forward to see more of the build!


Jul 19, 2015
Only a few, randomly among the last batch of photos and both of the first ones (Comparison photos?)


Shrink Way Wielder
Original poster
Apr 1, 2016
Try again please. I've changed some settings in google photos.


Jul 19, 2015
Still the same problem, both on my phone, desktop and laptop, cached and non-cached chrome, edge, firefox. :/


Shrink Way Wielder
Original poster
Apr 1, 2016
Ok tried on another web browser and noticed the issue.

I'll try to relink image


King of Cable Management
Bronze Supporter
Oct 13, 2016
The case looks awesome! Pre production or not, simply smashing it. Love the two tone panels and looking forward to seeing what you build in it.

thanks for sharing :cool:
  • Like
Reactions: MarcParis


Shrink Way Wielder
Original poster
Apr 1, 2016
Np...brainstorming on cpu to put inside is continuing and it's giving me headaches..:)

Wisiest choice will be to wait for 6 cores coffee lake..:)

For gpu, my gtx 1070 is enough right now and my need is somewhere on sli of gtx 1080 ti for true 4k ultra gameplay...however it's far too expensive for me...i guess i will need to wait vega 20 or volta...
So at the end 2017 solution could be simply put my mini itx config in cerberus-x...overclocking seriously everything..:)

To be continued..:)


Customizer of Titles
Editorial Staff
Silver Supporter
Feb 26, 2016
There are a few ATX cases around that are about the same size or maybe even smaller:

Bubalus W1 - 20.1L
Jonsbo RM2 - 21.5L
Daotech X10 - 21.7L
Daotech Alu-500 - 21.7L
Jonsbo G3 - 23.3L
Bubalus WA - 24.5L
Streacom FC12 - 24.6L

But something the size of the RM2 with better mounting for Hard Drives and more fans would be a welcome addition! That case isn't so bad but leaves a lot wasted.


Shrink Way Wielder
Original poster
Apr 1, 2016
There are a few ATX cases around that are about the same size or maybe even smaller:

Bubalus W1 - 20.1L
Jonsbo RM2 - 21.5L
Daotech X10 - 21.7L
Daotech Alu-500 - 21.7L
Jonsbo G3 - 23.3L
Bubalus WA - 24.5L
Streacom FC12 - 24.6L

But something the size of the RM2 with better mounting for Hard Drives and more fans would be a welcome addition! That case isn't so bad but leaves a lot wasted.
Well I was referring to gaming case that managed to come to EU..:D
Jonsbo is not sold directly (only OEM) and its cooling capabilities are far to be compatible with high end gaming..:)
Bubalus/Daotech...I don't even know these companies
Streamcom : great for htpc...but not gaming..:)

But thanks for your support as you are aware of cases coming from Asia..:)


Customizer of Titles
Editorial Staff
Silver Supporter
Feb 26, 2016
The Streacom has a lot of different setups it can accomodate so I wouldn't totally disregard it. The others are a bit difficult to find as you mentioned however. In fact, other than the Jonsbo and Streacom ones, i havent seen any of them for sale anywhere. I hope this case can make it to market, it's desperately needed.


Shrink Way Wielder
Original poster
Apr 1, 2016
indeed it will be released...:) Now it won't be cheap either..:D


Master of Cramming
Bronze Supporter
Mar 6, 2017
WOW THATS SMALL, Ive been in contact with them to get a case :/

Ill most likely be moving to Taiwan to start a start up need something small like this