Production Velka series cases for ultra compact and portable desktops
- Thread starter VELKASE Michael
- Start date
I have a question of the your riser cable for GPU.
Currently I am thinking of install a NVME m2 (adata sx8200) on the motherboard which can run at 85C at maximum. And the riser cable will be running over the NVME m2.
It would not touch the NVME m2 directly but it would be over it around 2-3 cm high.
In that case, will the cable could be safe from the heat caused by NVME m2?
I will appreciate it if you can advise it.
Currently I am thinking of install a NVME m2 (adata sx8200) on the motherboard which can run at 85C at maximum. And the riser cable will be running over the NVME m2.
It would not touch the NVME m2 directly but it would be over it around 2-3 cm high.
In that case, will the cable could be safe from the heat caused by NVME m2?
I will appreciate it if you can advise it.
New Velka 3 review is out!
Velka 5 review coming out next week supposedly
Velka 5 review coming out next week supposedly
With only 2 top screws securing the PSU, is it secure with the case positioned upside down or moving around in transportation? Could there be more PSU mounting points in future iterations?
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I'm currently been trying to work out a way of dealing with this on my current build. (Different case, very similar.) I've been trying different methods to see if I can get the drive away from the GPU riser. One idea I've had is to see if I can use a OCuLink to M.2 adapter. It then means I can use a U.2 or Mini SAS HD cable to relocate it. In the case of the VELKA 3, I could imagine the drive bay that is located where the fans are could house the U.2 to M.2 adapter. However I reckon the space between the motherboard and the GPU riser is very tight so no guarantees it would work.
In short: M.2 to OCuLink + OCuLink to U.2 + U.2 to M.2
Would it be unrealistic to hope for some kind of optional top-hat/cover for the Velka 5 which helps hide away the cables sticking out the top? It would add to total volume of the case but it would make the build look so much cleaner and should be quite easy to make and mount/dismount.
It could come in the same or an accented color which could add even more to the overall looks. It could also come in an L-shape going down the back which would make it possible to route cables down the the bottom of the case for an even cleaner look.
It could come in the same or an accented color which could add even more to the overall looks. It could also come in an L-shape going down the back which would make it possible to route cables down the the bottom of the case for an even cleaner look.
Flex ATX power supplies can be fastened with a third screw in the current design, but only the top two are necessary.
The cleanest look possible would be achieved by using a USB hub with ethernet plugged into one of the rear ports. That way, you would only end up with as many cables as you have monitors. A metal top cover would introduce at least 4 more screws to the exterior, a visible horizontal gap in the front, and at least one more vertical line somewhere because it would not be possible to make from a single piece. A plastic top cover could be made from a single piece, but it would still suffer from the other problems in addition to having a completely different appearance.
Somehow I managed to install the mobo without removing anything, just put in the GPU after securing the mobo. Thanks.
I finally finished my build on Monday, I could feel the tension leaving my boey when I closed the VK-5 and the pc booted.
Thanks Michael and everyone who helped!
I bought a NH-L9A, how do I make a fan duct for it.
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@VELKASE Michael
Building on one of the review comments of countersunk panel screws.IIRC you mentioned it was tried and failed.
Is it not possible just to increase the diameter of the hole in the side panel so the screw head sits deeper in the panel.
Since we have threaded inserts I assume the pressure of the screw head against the panel will stop it from moving ??
Maybe use flathead screw rather than a countersunk one
Please correct me if I misunderstood the original reason
Building on one of the review comments of countersunk panel screws.IIRC you mentioned it was tried and failed.
Is it not possible just to increase the diameter of the hole in the side panel so the screw head sits deeper in the panel.
Since we have threaded inserts I assume the pressure of the screw head against the panel will stop it from moving ??
Maybe use flathead screw rather than a countersunk one
Please correct me if I misunderstood the original reason
Yes. Countersinking 1.2 mm thick aluminum has resulted in poor yields. The holes would often turn out to be oversized at the bottom and cause the screw to fall through.
The screws currently sit as flush as they can, with a 0.3 mm - 0.5 mm protrusion. Unless if there are some extremely small flat head screws out there, countersunk screws will be less noticeable. Designing the holes just large enough to fit the entire head of the screw would be less than ideal because manufacturing tolerances could potentially result in loose fit in some holes.
The VK-3 unit that Ali reviewed was one of the last few units from the batch, which had to be assembled with larger than normal countersunk screws because I have run out of my regular screws by that point. The VK-5 that he is going to review will have screws that are representative of the ones found on all other cases.
Yay ? - rev 1.2 ??
A pattern like the VK-5 slots would offer so much flexibility in positioning
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