I want to ask about this as well , this made it rather limited on high wattage choice. That and i want to know how the 80mm up top attachWhat's the limiting factor to make the PSU max length 160mm? I'm thinking about upgrading the PSU when I move from my P-ATX to the N-ATX. just waiting on my active backplate cooler before I swap cases. seems like I'm always waiting on EK for something
What's the limiting factor to make the PSU max length 160mm? I'm thinking about upgrading the PSU when I move from my P-ATX to the N-ATX. just waiting on my active backplate cooler before I swap cases. seems like I'm always waiting on EK for something
If I have to guess, I'd say it's to accommodate long graphics cards. Long PSUs (especially with the additional bulk of the Molex Micro-Fit connector housings) is gonna cut into the space for graphics cards. I'd say (a guess based on photos since I don't currently own a N-ATX) is that longer PSUs (180-200mm) is gonna limit the GPU length to about as long as a standard ATX motherboard (about 244mm)
For illustration (credits to whoever built this is, I just grabbed the first photo in this thread with ATX PSU:
If I have to guess, I'd say it's to accommodate long graphics cards. Long PSUs (especially with the additional bulk of the Molex Micro-Fit connector housings) is gonna cut into the space for graphics cards. I'd say (a guess based on photos since I don't currently own a N-ATX) is that longer PSUs (180-200mm) is gonna limit the GPU length to about as long as a standard ATX motherboard (about 244mm)
For illustration (credits to whoever built this is, I just grabbed the first photo in this thread with ATX PSU:
Thanks for featuring my build in your answer lol
I think riba might've answered this one already a while back, I believe that in addition to the issue of components bumping into each other, there's a structural component that's preventing it from being any longer.
If you look at page 7 of the manual there's a post and a nut that secure the drive mounting bracket to the inside of the front of the case. These limit the length of the PSU, as you can see that it's also mounted along the inside front of the case.
Almost forgot: I actually came here to say that as someone who downsized for multiple reasons, but primarily to be able to travel with my computer, it was important to me to find a protective case that I could easily carry -- and I finally have.
Carrying cases for full PC towers are too big, so the N-ATX would bump around inside one of those. Meanwhile, cases for laptops, even larger waterproof/dustproof/shockproof hard cases, are made with the wrong "aspect ratio," since laptops are approximately 16:9 whereas the N-ATX is more square at ~16:15. I had to get creative with what kind of case I was looking for, and after a lot of looking around noticed carrying cases... for dual monitors. They're tall enough for the height and thick enough for the width, and just leave extra space on the depth (usually ~24" as compared to ~16" on the N-ATX).
I ended up going with this , which fits and offers nice padding on all sides while looking decent and allowing carrying over the shoulder.
I've traveled with the case once in a suitcase, but the next time I transport the case I'll be using this and hope it'll be a lot easier!
I've also got some vague thoughts about a handle casemod, maybe made from leather? @riba2233 I don't know what thoughts you may have had at any point about something like this and if there's any better/worse mounting points you could think of.
Carrying cases for full PC towers are too big, so the N-ATX would bump around inside one of those. Meanwhile, cases for laptops, even larger waterproof/dustproof/shockproof hard cases, are made with the wrong "aspect ratio," since laptops are approximately 16:9 whereas the N-ATX is more square at ~16:15. I had to get creative with what kind of case I was looking for, and after a lot of looking around noticed carrying cases... for dual monitors. They're tall enough for the height and thick enough for the width, and just leave extra space on the depth (usually ~24" as compared to ~16" on the N-ATX).
I ended up going with this , which fits and offers nice padding on all sides while looking decent and allowing carrying over the shoulder.
I've traveled with the case once in a suitcase, but the next time I transport the case I'll be using this and hope it'll be a lot easier!
I've also got some vague thoughts about a handle casemod, maybe made from leather? @riba2233 I don't know what thoughts you may have had at any point about something like this and if there's any better/worse mounting points you could think of.
What's the limiting factor to make the PSU max length 160mm? I'm thinking about upgrading the PSU when I move from my P-ATX to the N-ATX. just waiting on my active backplate cooler before I swap cases. seems like I'm always waiting on EK for something
Mainly these two elements:
And also clearance for GPU as Duy said
No, I am not saying you couldn't mod it to fit longer units, but I would say that 1000W or 1200W are more than enough for single CPU and GPU system.
Cool stuff, thank you for the write up!
Regarding handle, you would have to add a few support plates for mounting it, at least 3mm thick steel imho and as wide as possible. I have a rough sketch here:
What about Pelican cases? They've got quite a big range of sizes available so there must be one that's able to fit N-ATX along with cables and maybe a couple of peripherals
Based on the dimensions, looks like these ones might do the trick:
1605 Air Case | Pelican
The Pelican 1605 Air Case is the perfect combination of protection, portability and lightness. Shop premium hard cases direct from the official Pelican store.
1550 Protector Case | Pelican
Buy 1550 Protector Case Available with trekpak divider system, padded dividers, no foam, foam. Made in USA hard cases. Interior: 18.6" x 14.2" x 7.7".
Thanks for this. I don't have too much in the way of tools to fabricate my own stuff with, so I'll have to keep an eye out for pre-drilled plates like that. I'll obviously post if I figure something out!
What about Pelican cases? They've got quite a big range of sizes available so there must be one that's able to fit N-ATX along with cables and maybe a couple of peripherals
Based on the dimensions, looks like these ones might do the trick:
1605 Air Case | Pelican
The Pelican 1605 Air Case is the perfect combination of protection, portability and lightness. Shop premium hard cases direct from the official Pelican store.www.pelican.com
1550 Protector Case | Pelican
Buy 1550 Protector Case Available with trekpak divider system, padded dividers, no foam, foam. Made in USA hard cases. Interior: 18.6" x 14.2" x 7.7".
I naturally checked Pelican because they're Pelican, but with the stand on, the N-ATX stands 15" tall and the second dimension on those cases is ~14". I could compromise by removing the stand each time, but I also wasn't a huge fan of hard cases because they add a lot of weight, so I didn't feel the need to compromise for these. Also, that bag I got ended up being about $70 -- less than half the expense. For someone with different requirements, though, these could totally work!
If you're in the US then you can use a service like Send Cut Send.
I hadn't heard of this before. I think I should be able to handle this by carefully choosing things off the shelf, but this is great to know about. Back in school, I had casual access to 3D printers, a CNC mill, a laser cutter, etc. Definitely miss that now.
Having dabbled in custom mechanical keyboards, I've also had some stuff laser/waterjet cut in the past. Other reliable suppliers for this type of service includes Ponoko (US) and LaserBoost (Spanish but will ships to lots of places).
Of course, it might be more cost effective if you can find a sheet metal fab place local to your area. Sheet fabrication is a pretty common and basic manufacturing step and is useful for lots of purposes, so I wouldn't be surprised if there's a shop somewhere near you that can offer sheet cutting/bending
Of course, it might be more cost effective if you can find a sheet metal fab place local to your area. Sheet fabrication is a pretty common and basic manufacturing step and is useful for lots of purposes, so I wouldn't be surprised if there's a shop somewhere near you that can offer sheet cutting/bending
If you lay it on the right side and don't use watercooling feet heigth won't make difference. If you do, around 15-20mm would be fine
I know it will be fine, dont worry. I am just trying to find as many looks and kinds as possible, cant go with the usual choice as those are screw ins
I can also make a horizontal stand for it i guess
I don't suppose anyone knows if a half-height PCIe card would fit in this chassis without the riser? I have a server that I'm building and I'm trying to decide on a chassis. I would love to use another N-ATX for it. i suppose that i could just use the accessory to stack them as well. just curious if anyone has had the same though. very unlikely id imagine
EDIT: i need two half hight cards
EDIT: i need two half hight cards
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Unfortunately I can't measure the cards at the moment because they are in use for a few more hours. Pcie bracket is just a smidge under 80mm including the bit that slides besides the motherboard so it's possible. It was just a bit of a "aha!" Moment. I'll test fit it when I get the opportunity but even if it does fit then the rear i/o will be the next problem.
pls report with some pics when you can. I think clearance-wise it will fit. About the rear IO situation, the bottom slot will be fine since it is quite open for the vertical full-height cards, but the top / upper slot will require mods indeed. Just put a hammer to it manUnfortunately I can't measure the cards at the moment because they are in use for a few more hours. Pcie bracket is just a smidge under 80mm including the bit that slides besides the motherboard so it's possible. It was just a bit of a "aha!" Moment. I'll test fit it when I get the opportunity but even if it does fit then the rear i/o will be the next problem.
Regarding height it self they would, but PCI bracket will collide with the rear and the right panel of the case. Also if it has some connectors on the back they could also be blocked. But you an mitigate this issues by removing the bracket and putting the card in lower slots, you just need figure out a way to secure them somehow.
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