I'm affraid you're right but AMD should be coming up with a 16gb card and I'm hoping that will be a little more reasonable.
You dont need to add tape to the logo, you can take off the outer silver bezel as it just snaps into place, and then that exposes two screws for the acrylic. Unscrew those and flip the acrylic and screw it back in. It's how I flipped my corsair logo.Here you go
Here you go
Right now The 92mm is held by double sided tape as this is just a test fit (hence the missing screws). Will think of something more permanent when the build is finalized.
For the specs same thing this is just a test fit with my current build (R5 3600 + 1080Ti) but the plan is to upgrade to R9 4900 and RTX 3090/6900XT whenever possible.
Also, I'll prob add a vinyl cover on the flipped corsair logo it's triggering me lol
You can, but it was a tight fit and the tolerances on the radiator could mean that it might not happen flawlessly with every H100iIt looks like you can push right angled end radiator from H100i RGB XT also all the way to the front or I am missing something? Anyway as soon my parts arrive I'm going to try similar 3 fans setup with Cooler Master ML240L v2 AiO
I would like to know this was well. My EVGA 650 GM fan has a really loud bearing or the turbulence caused by the fan "grill" makes it super loud, it's the loudest fan in my system and spins up when im doing basically nothing. Really annoying tbh
Rebuilt my
Finished and bled (just a couple of mini bubbles in the res).
What do you think?
@fabio I think I have come up with a configuration you haven’t tried.
Requires a bit of surgery though.....
And a bit of knuckle scraping.
Finished and bled (just a couple of mini bubbles in the res).
What do you think?
Nice build!
You know the RGB cover pops off so you can spin it 180º to have it the right way up?
I did not! Thank you for the tip (thx @Navic as well)
since you already have an sfx psu, i wouldn't bother spending the extra money on the corsair sf series. just buy an nf-a9x14 and swap it in. it works wonders for sound.
Got my answer on reddit. The answer is "no it won't fit without removing the bottom which just exposes the bare innards. you're better off with a separate pump + top than that combo."
Industrial strength velcro.
My ideal permanent solution is a custom 120mm bracket. I'm hoping someone can do the necessary CAD work and share their .stl files
Question for anyone who can answer! I ordered a T1 Sidearm a couple of days ago, but just noticed that there are versions of the front panel that have slots along the left hand side. Is this a USB C 3.1 slot? Or something else? Would I have to buy this panel separately or does it come with my order? If I do need to buy, where can I? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but the images don't make much sense to me and there was no mention on the specs page when I ordered...
I know some people were interested in the parts I was using for my build and I never gave a final update with it either. Here is the final build! At least until I want change something again and I already do, but will leave it until I need to clean the loop. Temps are good so far, and I really just need to clean up my cable management a bit. My 2700 OC'd to 3.8 ghz at 1.25v reached a max of 61C in Cinebench 20. My 2080ti undervolted to 1860 MHz at .893V hit a max of 58C in a Heaven benchmark. I haven't had the time to game yet, but might get some time this weekend. I added the five way splitter fitting at the last second and it helped with filling the loop a ton and I would recommend it to anyone that might find a use for it. It will also hopefully make for an easier time when it comes to draining the loop also. I can try and answer any questions that you might have.
Edit: plz don't roast me for the cables too much. I promise I will clean them up.
Edit: plz don't roast me for the cables too much. I promise I will clean them up.
I am sorry but while cable management is less important than the amount of LED's (which is not very impressive either). It shows that you should of spent the last 24 days measuring each cable to make sure it's the right length down to the 1000th of an inch, making sure the wires are bunched together properly, not overlapping and most importantly that the amount of LED's you have can blind a person wearing sunglasses (which is scientifically proven to give you more FPS).
All kidding aside, build looks great
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I received my T1 just now. EMS called about the packake which is unexpected to me since there is still no tracking number on the website nor any messages about it. Had to pay 7$ tax, which is surprisingly cheap considering @thelaughingman lives in the same city as me had to pay 23$, weird. Anyway, will start building after I get back home
There's going to be a front IO panel, which you'll have to buy seperately then, yes. I think that panel will be available on the website Q42020.
Hi guys,
Received my case without any issue
Surprisingly, you can fit 3 fans with a H100x (27mm thick) with 0 bulging. The rad doesn't have the squared ends the H100i has meaning it goes all the way to the front. That gives you the room to fit 1 a12x25 below and 2 a12x15 above.
You can also fit a 92mm a9x14 around the m.2/VRM area even in 3 slots mod, you have basically the perfect clearance before the fittings get in the way (This was known to work with custom loops because of the thin block but I don't know if people knew it worked with some AIOs.)
Might make the H100x a great aio choice.
If it interests anyone I can take some photos.
That's great! It's just too bad that the H100x can't be set to control fan speed based on coolant temp like the H100i...but it looks like you need to install iCUE for that so it may not even be an advantage!
Took 1 hour to assemble the case thanks to Optimum Tech and Suming Li youtube channel. I’m waiting for the Alphacool DC-LT 40 and the pump and the ST25 Radiator to arrive. Also a friend of mine is coming over this weekend to make custom cables for the SF750 in this case
Yes, it's possible in front of the PSU but does require custom cables. You'll need something like these pslate SATA power cables(the spacing on these is a bit too wide as the drives will be right next to each other but I think you can ask pslate to adjust that, or if you're comfortable it's not hard to make your own cables), and low profile SATA data cables. I also used the bracket for stacking two 2.5" drives from the NCASE M1 but double-sided tape will do just fine.
You can stack them using double sided tape, but I think you might need to get some custom, lower profile cables. Might not, but there are some other ways.
If you don't want to use double sided tape, the flip bracket for the PSU allows for another 2.5" drive mounted on the back. You can also tape some SSDs to the motherboard side of the PSU
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