Could you please comment as to the length of the lower hard-tube crossing next to the PSU?
Could you please comment as to the length of the lower hard-tube crossing next to the PSU?
"The ranking of radiators (best to worse)"
Is this regarding fitment, performance, or what?
What is the best (performance) radiator that doesn't require all this sanding and whatnot you crazy people are doing? I'm committed enough to custom loop, not enough to sanding etc.
Also, is there a similar ranking for pumps? Perhaps @fabio can chime in here? I'm going to be in 3slot mode which i'm sure limits my pump options.
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The ranking mentioned is performance. Ranking for fitment is exactly reverse.
If you want the performance... you must suffer first. Not worth it if its easy.
Do any of these other rads fit without sanding and whatnot? Basically whats the best rad I can use without voiding my warranties haha. I'm ok with them being difficult to get in as long as I can actually get it in. Still the LT?
So the case has arrived today and I've started building in it. It's so small! Pretty awesome piece of kit now that I have it here on the kitchen table.
I'm happy to report that everything is supplied and there's no damage to it.
the box was severely dented so that was a relief.
Gotta say that it was quite a challenge to put the case together as everybody is doing it somewhat different. Most parts had to come lose and had to be rescrewed in a slightly different spot, or mounting rails that just didn't cut it for the LT240.
I'll have to buy some proper lenght screws for the 15mm Noctua to screw onto the short mounting rails, but it fits with rubber pads on it and all. (size in mm?)
Really really happy about that. By the looks of it I'll be able to use all 4 screws on the 15mm Noctua, so that only the full size fan is mounted to the rad and not the case.
This is actually better than i had expected.... but it won't be finished for a while as I need to order some additional parts, and my magnets and delid tool are still not delivered.
I hope the new gpu line up will be out sooner than later though because the MSI gtx 1080ti X trio I'm currently running won't fit the case. It's too long.
I knew this before buying the case so it's not a problem and I would be able to have it in there without the front aluminum cover on it so that's alright for the time being.
I think going with the black color scheme was the right choice in the end, and it will look great next to my black DAC.
I'm happy to report that everything is supplied and there's no damage to it.
the box was severely dented so that was a relief.
Gotta say that it was quite a challenge to put the case together as everybody is doing it somewhat different. Most parts had to come lose and had to be rescrewed in a slightly different spot, or mounting rails that just didn't cut it for the LT240.
I'll have to buy some proper lenght screws for the 15mm Noctua to screw onto the short mounting rails, but it fits with rubber pads on it and all. (size in mm?)
Really really happy about that. By the looks of it I'll be able to use all 4 screws on the 15mm Noctua, so that only the full size fan is mounted to the rad and not the case.
This is actually better than i had expected.... but it won't be finished for a while as I need to order some additional parts, and my magnets and delid tool are still not delivered.
I hope the new gpu line up will be out sooner than later though because the MSI gtx 1080ti X trio I'm currently running won't fit the case. It's too long.
I knew this before buying the case so it's not a problem and I would be able to have it in there without the front aluminum cover on it so that's alright for the time being.
I think going with the black color scheme was the right choice in the end, and it will look great next to my black DAC.
following up on my own question, but consider this the first step in confirming that this may be a viable option. here's a fully-filled loop with the block top off-
looks like there might be just 15mm between the top of the pump and the side panel, so should be good to go to use a slim 92mm or 120mm noctua (and conveniently enough, you can probably just screw it into one of the block mounting holes to hold it in place). there was a sorbothane-esque material on the underside of the top of the block though, so there's potential that leaving the pump open like this will actually produce a louder sound (i was basing the noise assumption on the fact that the DC-LT 2600 + Eisstation 40 is reported as much quieter than the LT Solo).
i've got a plan to rotate the block 180 degrees so that the ports are up top/tubing away from the fan, but it'll probably be a couple weeks until i get to it. will report back on topless LT Solo/pump noise/top-down capability in 3-slot once i do.
Simply using adhesive velcro. Hoping I can get a custom bracket solution for a 120mm fan. There is actually enough clearance to squeeze 140mm x 25mm fan but it's a little too tight and those fans are usually circular shaped so not much surface area for velcro.
@kazuma86 My cables are pslate ones with Dan A4 lengths.
following up on my own question, but consider this the first step in confirming that this may be a viable option. here's a fully-filled loop with the block top off-
looks like there might be just 15mm between the top of the pump and the side panel, so should be good to go to use a slim 92mm or 120mm noctua (and conveniently enough, you can probably just screw it into one of the block mounting holes to hold it in place). there was a sorbothane-esque material on the underside of the top of the block though, so there's potential that leaving the pump open like this will actually produce a louder sound (i was basing the noise assumption on the fact that the DC-LT 2600 + Eisstation 40 is reported as much quieter than the LT Solo).
i've got a plan to rotate the block 180 degrees so that the ports are up top/tubing away from the fan, but it'll probably be a couple weeks until i get to it. will report back on topless LT Solo/pump noise/top-down capability in 3-slot once i do.
Would you mind listing the connections you used in your loop and how many of them? I really like this setup. Sorry for the handholding, I've never custom looped and am not entirely sure what is needed.
Which CPU block and angled fittings did you use for it to fit in dual slot mode?
Somehow the notification didn't even reach my spam folder (googlemail). Was there some trick to it?
Luckily I was able to snatch one by coincedence.
I hope Formd.com will open with new stock soon!
(and maybe confirm if "silver" means silver body and silver mesh or silver body and black mesh, since there was some confusion...)
Luckily I was able to snatch one by coincedence.
I hope Formd.com will open with new stock soon!
(and maybe confirm if "silver" means silver body and silver mesh or silver body and black mesh, since there was some confusion...)
The standoffs are M3*20mm and M3*6mm. If you can’t get screws and standoff easily, we will ship it to you.
I'm almost certain that mesh panels on all models is black. Color matching would be a night mare as steel can't be anodized (at least not in the same way that aluminum can..) I'm not in the fabrication industry, all I know is the process is completely different for steel.
Correct. Anodisation is an electro-oxidation process (hence the term, anodize, for Anode). You're forcibily oxidising (i.e. corroding) the metal
Anodisation works on aluminium because you're basically oxidising aluminium to form a layer of aluminium oxide, which relatively speaking is tough and resists further corrosion to the bare aluminium underneath
Steel or any iron alloy, on the other hand, forms iron oxide, which doesn't prevent further corrosion of the bare metal underneath. If you tried to anodise the mesh panel you'd have no more panel ?
Steel will need to be electroplated instead, which is different (depositing another metal on top of the bare metal, not oxidising it), but yes colour matching two different techniques would be a futile endeavour
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