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Stalled DICE CASES - FLOW : expandable SFF case for watercooling enthusiast (built in distroplate)

ermac318

King of Cable Management
Mar 10, 2019
655
510
Another beginner question, this time about "hard fitting chain". I assume you mean a connection that consists of nothing but fittings? I saw these in some builds but I was always confused about how they are meant to be screwed in considering they are not flexible in any way? Is it through use of rotating fittings at the ends? Would love to know the secret, thanks!
If you look back I think there's a picture earlier in this thread of how one of the early beta testers did it. There are dual 45 degree fittings like this that let you do a 90 degree bend with much more flexibility, like being able to translate a connection laterally. You can use those plus some Extenders fittings to make it from the rad to the distro without any tubing.

Found It: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...usiast-built-in-distroplate.10743/post-176502
 
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diceboii13

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Nov 4, 2018
620
1,644
dicecases.com
One piece of feedback for @diceboii13 - the screws that were included for fastening the motherboard sucked :) The hex ones were too long to properly fasten and the tiny ones were too short to properly hold. If you run a v2, I would definitely recommend screws of more appropriate length as well as instructions for what the different screws are for. I still don't know what half of them are meant to be used for (silver ones)
Noted! The remaining silver screws for the 3.5" drives(if you have any), those are 6/32 threaded, and the rest of them are just reserves.
 

Gilles3000

Airflow Optimizer
Oct 6, 2018
241
246
For other people having issues with long motherboard screws, most standard cable stripping/crimping pliers have screw cutters build in, makes it very easy to trim down small screws.
 

TheBigG

Trash Compacter
Jun 3, 2019
46
14
Hi @diceboii13
some feedback for a v2.
Please be sure to attach the threading for the screws in a way that they don't fall off after the first disassemble to install a radiator.
I haven't even tried to assemble it yet and was just wondering what the rattling was. 😢
 
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diceboii13

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Nov 4, 2018
620
1,644
dicecases.com
Hi @diceboii13
some feedback for a v2.
Please be sure to attach the threading for the screws in a way that they don't fall off after the first disassemble to install a radiator.
I haven't even tried to assemble it yet and was just wondering what the rattling was. 😢
It was a common issue. Thats the main reason why I have to send some replacement parts. Ive got the answer from the manifacturer, when the powdercoating was made, a lot of nuts felt out because of the high temperatures they worked with. In the v2 there will be no nuts like that. Those are really expensive and hard to work with in mass production.
 

TheBigG

Trash Compacter
Jun 3, 2019
46
14
It was a common issue. Thats the main reason why I have to send some replacement parts. Ive got the answer from the manifacturer, when the powdercoating was made, a lot of nuts felt out because of the high temperatures they worked with. In the v2 there will be no nuts like that. Those are really expensive and hard to work with in mass production.
Sad to hear, I can say that it doesn't look great if you can't screw the top part in for sure 😞

Is that replaceable with a part or does the complete base to be replaced so i can screw the top cover in again?
 

kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
Loop is complete... Graphics card side total embarrassment, but these are the times we live in 😅





 
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kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
A few notes on fittings - I don't know why EKWB decided to make their quantum series fittings so comically large, but had I not ordered "classic" 45 degree fittings I wouldn't have been able to get out of some tight spots. Even the extenders from the quantum series were too wide to clear the frame.

If I had to do an ITX loop again, I would probably avoid EKWB Quantum. Anyone have recommendations on what could be a good alternative that's also high quality but more compact in size?

Edit: Remembered one more thing - @diceboii13 the hex screws for tightening the pump to the distro also suck :) I ruined one of them and barely managed to unscrew it. The reason I was tightening it so hard was because it was leaking from the pump beyond 0.6 bars. I think I managed to somehow tighten it properly now but I'm still a little nervous about just how good the seal is.
 
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diceboii13

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Nov 4, 2018
620
1,644
dicecases.com
Sad to hear, I can say that it doesn't look great if you can't screw the top part in for sure 😞

Is that replaceable with a part or does the complete base to be replaced so i can screw the top cover in again?
Its a replaceable part, so it will be replaced!
A few notes on fittings - I don't know why EKWB decided to make their quantum series fittings so comically large, but had I not ordered "classic" 45 degree fittings I wouldn't have been able to get out of some tight spots. Even the extenders from the quantum series were too wide to clear the frame.

If I had to do an ITX loop again, I would probably avoid EKWB Quantum. Anyone have recommendations on what could be a good alternative that's also high quality but more compact in size?

Edit: Remembered one more thing - @diceboii13 the hex screws for tightening the pump to the distro also suck :) I ruined one of them and barely managed to unscrew it. The reason I was tightening it so hard was because it was leaking from the pump beyond 0.6 bars. I think I managed to somehow tighten it properly now but I'm still a little nervous about just how good the seal is.
Yup, I sent out some new black screws for one of my buyer to test it out. Currently no reports for any rust so fingers crossed. I wanted to use other screws so I bought like 6 types but that was the only one that worked:(
 
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kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
Ran some quick benchmarks. I have a 5900x connected to both HWLabs X-flow 120mm rads and no GPU. Only top 2x120mm Noctuas are running. Pump (D5) at 50%. Idle temps are around 35-45. Cinebench r23 after 10 minutes was in 65-70 range. Curious to see how the system will behave once GPU is added! This CPU runs really hot. Not in the mood of re-applying the thermal paste because I don't see how to do it without disassembling the whole loop. 😅

 

ermac318

King of Cable Management
Mar 10, 2019
655
510
Loop is complete... Graphics card side total embarrassment, but these are the times we live in 😅





Why did you go all the way from the gpu side back to the cpu side to enter the reservoir? Isn't there another inlet on that side?

Otherwise looks awesome!
 

ThisIsForBruce

Trash Compacter
Mar 25, 2020
36
34
Anyone installed any kind of lighting yet? I just ordered an LED strips from Aquacomputer to plug into the Quadro. The 27cm strip seems like it should fit snuggly along the top or bottom rail.
I have UV LED lighting on the upper rails of the case. I hard wired it in, spliced the 5v power from a PSU Molex cable and grounds are hooked up to a toggle stitch. 12v from the other two wires of the same connector are wired into the pump. I’m using UV coolant as a little throw back. Think it’ll look nice with the front distro lit up.
 

kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
Why did you go all the way from the gpu side back to the cpu side to enter the reservoir? Isn't there another inlet on that side?

Otherwise looks awesome!
Thanks! I didn't have a male to male coupler to complete the fitting based connection straight down so I had to use tubing. There wasn't enough space to fit a tube on if I din't go across. Even like this I barely managed to insert it:



I should get some couplers this week so once I finally get the GPU as well I'll try to rebuild this section and remove the tubing altogether.
 

kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
I have UV LED lighting on the upper rails of the case. I hard wired it in, spliced the 5v power from a PSU Molex cable and grounds are hooked up to a toggle stitch. 12v from the other two wires of the same connector are wired into the pump. I’m using UV coolant as a little throw back. Think it’ll look nice with the front distro lit up.
That sounds awesome, please post pics once you have it up and running!
 

ThisIsForBruce

Trash Compacter
Mar 25, 2020
36
34
That sounds awesome, please post pics once you have it up and running!
Will do if I can ever get it to stop leaking.... lol

And you can reapply thermal paste without draining the loop — unscrew the spring tension screw from your block and you should be able to bend the block far enough away from the CPU to reapply thermal paste. That ZMT tubing is flexible, just watch to not put too much pressure on your fittings.
 
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kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
@diceboii13 Two more pieces of feedback for v2:
  1. The PSU holder is so close to the motherboard and it's ATX socket that I'm unable to fully plug the PSU cable in. You know how ATX cables have those clips that protrude? The clip is blocked by the PSU holder and therefore I can't properly latch in the ATX cable into the motherboard. I could solve it by removing the PSU, plugging in the cable and then re-attaching the PSU but that's a PITA. :)
  2. The riser cable touches the top of the frame and touches the fan blades. I inserted a water cooling plug between the cable and the frame which fixes it but it's a bit of a hack. Not sure what the best solution would be here, but I can see it being a common issue.
  3. I had to install the spacers between the distro and the frame because the pump was hitting the PSU otherwise, but the distancers are really tricky to install because they just hang on the screws and then you have to attach the distro without any of them falling out. A more robust mechanism where the distancers are somehow fixed and can't fall off would be nice. Even nicer would be to just slightly extend the length of the case and not have a need for these distancers at all. This would also fix problem #1. :) I think even 1cm would be enough to add about 7mm at the front so that bigger pumps don't hit the psu and 3mm extra between PSU and mobo would solve ATX power cable clearance issues.
 
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D10S

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Feb 4, 2018
123
121
Old post...
...refers to the first prototype:


...the combo should be:

This:
This:
an this:
 

kosta

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 27, 2019
119
70
...the combo should be:

This:
This:
an this:
Thanks for that bill of materials, helpful!