Stalled DICE CASES - FLOW : expandable SFF case for watercooling enthusiast (built in distroplate)
- Thread starter diceboii13
- Start date
M4x20 screws are needed (countersunk), but I dont understand your question to be honest ?
@diceboii13 he is referring to the amount of torque for the screws. But being acrylic, I wouldn't go further than 0.5 - 1 Nm or you have the change of cracking it.
@diceboii13 I would be happy to do a proofread pass on the manual if you want to share an editable version of the text w/me.
More comments: There's no guidance on how to attach radiators/fans etc. I would think there should be information on where to attach the rads. Are they attached to the case interior? Are they attached to the expandable/removable top plate?
More comments: There's no guidance on how to attach radiators/fans etc. I would think there should be information on where to attach the rads. Are they attached to the case interior? Are they attached to the expandable/removable top plate?
That's what I meant. I hastily wrote the message. But autocorrect messed up badly, sorry about that. Does acrylic crack that easily? 1 Nm isn't much.
Its longer, somehow I forgot to change it, Its 305mm safely, with a DDC pump its 20mm longer. Its a bit hard to tell, because the pump is the only thing that makes sence. And if the card is not perfectly flat in the end, like a bit round shape, it can be 1-2mm longer in the middle, and still fit.
Thank you for the effort, if you are willing to, I can share it! Yes, the rad/fan/drives mounting are missing, Ill fix it.
No problem, As I tested, its hard to break, but definitely not use your full hand power to screw it down, like 70-80% is enough. Its hard to tell exactly, but I think if you feel its getting harder to tight, stop screwing. If you tight the screw in acrylic you may hear some cracking noises, because of the surface traction of the plastic. Thats the point when you should slow down, and stop if its getting weirdly loud and hard to continue.
Yes, they have a bigger work, from the past, so they need to finish it first, because they need to clear the painting room for my stuffs etc. Hope that week I finally got the cases
That is the torque that pretty much full acrylic gpu blocks use and they don't leak, and have more restriction than the distro plate so I wouldn't see it being a problem.
I think EK specifies not using more than 0.7 Nm
@diceboii13, I noticed the large expanse is made for a 30mm rad+25mm fans. I was thinking of using double gts 280 and the arctic p14 fans. These would, however be 29,6mm and 27mm respectively, so going over by 1,6 mm. Can you still fit these or is it a complete impossibility without some modding?
I highly recommend testing and speccing a torque. It will give you some protection against somebody doing something stupid and blaming you/the case. You may think it's hard to break, but don't underestimate the customer's ability to break things. I'm speaking from experience as an equipment sales/support engineer.
The spec should just be "good enough", so long as it's tight enough that it doesn't leak you're good to go. I'd suggest testing EK's spec in a couple test loops with the high pressure pump. No leaks, and you're probably good. I'd recommend more testing if this were a more critical product, like aerospace, medical, or automotive, but it's not practical for a boutique business like yours.
I know this is a niche of a niche product in a niche market, and the majority of your customers will be smart and careful, but you will still get a customer that hasn't learned tighter isn't better, and break something.
I believe the official spec for the expand is 58mm, you should be fine.
Considering LTT managed to forget to even install the O-Ring in the Singularity case with the built-in distro, even "seasoned" users may forget the simplest things
The maximum height is 57mm but thats sheet to sheet, so If you max that out it can cause some tolerance issues, so I recommend to stay under it. Even with modding its almost impossible to squeeze even +1mm. If you have those fans already, give it a try, but I dont recommend buying it.
Thats all true, I just need to find the equipment for it, and I can test. I try it before sending out the cases! In the front of the case its much more easier because you can see the oring will be flattened as you add more force.
I saw that episode ?I believe the official spec for the expand is 58mm, you should be fine.
Considering LTT managed to forget to even install the O-Ring in the Singularity case with the built-in distro, even "seasoned" users may forget the simplest things
The user manual is updated. I added all the necessary compontents to it. If you think something is still missing, let me know. (The language is sill the old, but Im working on it)
https://dicecases.com/dice_cases_flow-manual.pdf
https://dicecases.com/dice_cases_flow-manual.pdf
I think some people will ask how to mount a rad to it for completion. Either way you can see the rad mount holders which are part of the chassis.
One thing I love is the use of M3 screws everywhere... definitely something I am not going to miss about my Louqe Ghost S1.
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The Ghost does not have screws on the sides or on the distro, but it does not have a distro; on the lid it has eight screws and the corresponding ones for the cpu and other internal components (motherboard, radiators, fans, etc.). I don't see that the Dice case has too many screws.
Overall the great manual. But it seems to me that it is necessary to correct the contrast of the pictures a little, where the details are filled with black. I have not the best eyesight, I have to look especially closely where and which screw is screwed in. I would also scale up the pictures a little for the same reason. And also now it is hard for me to pay attention to something and it is possible to add some information, until I came across directly with the assembly of a computer in a case. I think that when there are first reviews, then it will be clear what exactly should be added to the manual.
True somehow the most important parts, the rads are missing, I'm gonna update that!
Yep its a bit dark in the interior, but when someone will assemble it, it's pretty easy to find the exact holes. I stayed with the dark colors to illustrate a bit more realistically how the case looks like but I will try to lighten it a bit.
Oh and thanks for the tips! Really appreciate it
