Chimera Industries Cerberus: The 18L, mATX, USA-made enclosure

charlesdab

Minimal Tinkerer
Dec 5, 2017
4
0
Anyone have contact info for Kimera?

I just unboxed my order and found some hardware missing.

Also would love to know if there is any documentation on what parts and pieces ship with the unit, instructions, build videos, etc?

EDIT: Apparently this was a mistake-- they're mailing out a plate tomorrow.
 
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Kanoko Kochano

Efficiency Noob
New User
Dec 5, 2017
5
18
@Regnato looks like you are missing a piece for that open spot on the back

I just got the Cerberus in today and it looks like I'm missing the plate to the right of the PCI slots as well. Edit: Sliger has stated that the first batch of cases were missing this panel and that they will mail out the missing plates to those in the first batch and will include it future batches.

Also, it seems like the side panels are incredibly hard to remove. I have to pry so hard that my fingers hurt like hell before the panel gives. Is there any way of making them easier to remove? I see that the metal snap-ins are the same kind used on Caselab's cases, but they're nowhere near this hard to remove on their cases.
 
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charlesdab

Minimal Tinkerer
Dec 5, 2017
4
0
I just got the Cerberus in today and it looks like I'm missing the plate to the right of the PCI slots as well. Anyone know if this is intentional, or an oversight by Sliger? If it's an oversight, is there any way I can get that panel?

Also, it seems like the side panels are incredibly hard to remove. I have to pry so hard that my fingers hurt like hell before the panel gives. Is there any way of making them easier to remove? I see that the metal snap-ins are the same kind used on Caselab's cases, but they're nowhere near this hard to remove on their cases.

I had the same issue-- missing plate.
 

KSliger

King of Cable Management
Sliger Designs
May 8, 2015
855
3,186
I just got the Cerberus in today and it looks like I'm missing the plate to the right of the PCI slots as well. Anyone know if this is intentional, or an oversight by Sliger? If it's an oversight, is there any way I can get that panel?

Also, it seems like the side panels are incredibly hard to remove. I have to pry so hard that my fingers hurt like hell before the panel gives. Is there any way of making them easier to remove? I see that the metal snap-ins are the same kind used on Caselab's cases, but they're nowhere near this hard to remove on their cases.

Yes that was an oversight on our part, those are all mailed out already to everyone that ordered early, you should get them in a few days. My apologies on leaving those out, all cases that shipped this week however have them included.

For the hard to remove panels please email me at ksliger@sliger.com or PM me, we'll take a look and get this fixed for you - should be easy to take on/off and not a struggle. Bottom clips will be stronger than top clips, however they loosen up with 3-5 on/off cycles. (due to being powder coated.)

For any issues please email me, we'll get any issues addressed and big thank you to all early adopters.
 

chemist_slime

Caliper Novice
Aug 21, 2016
32
62
Was excited to assemble the system today only to find out that the Nvidia Titan Xp Collector's Edition don't allow for slots to be adjacent fitted. In other words, they're wider than the typical Titan Xps by about 2mm due to the ring around the fan but just enough that I can't fit two of them next to each other. Then I find out that the NXZT X62 is also too tall with the Corsair AX1500i installed.

Anyways, ordered 4 regular Titan Xps and have an EVGA 280mm AIO on the way. Hopefully come thursday I'm a bit luckier!
 

Kanoko Kochano

Efficiency Noob
New User
Dec 5, 2017
5
18
I finished putting my setup into the Cerberus and I've noticed some additional issues:

1. There are multiple scuffs near the pegs on both side panels. Here's a picture of some of the pegs, but the scuffing is pretty much present on all of them. This may be a result of shipping the panels attached to the case, but in some areas it also looks like it's been dinged quite deeply, which don't look like it could be caused by shipping:











2. The side panel seems to have been cut out in multiple passes, and there's lips where you can tell where they moved the blade. This picture shows the biggest lip, but there's multiple places where this shows up, on every side of the panel. Based on the frequency and repetition of these lips, it seems like the cutting blade is only 4-5 inches long. The bottom right corner of the first image in this post also shows this lip:



3. One of my panel's corners is dented. Also note the long scuff line and the dings, which look fairly deep:



4. I have a scratch on the top of the case, near the power button. Although it's hidden behind the top panel once it's attached, it's not a great feeling when it's the first thing you see after taking off the top panel:



5. The power button is not centered and tilted slightly forward:



6. There are no instructions provided and some of the installation is non-obvious, so I've had to look at images of the case online in order to put it together. However, there are still some things that I'm unsure about. For example, I have no idea what these large self-tapping screws are for (Edit: It just occurred to me that these are probably fan screws, just unlike any I've ever seen before):



7. The countersunk screws for SSD mounting are too long. When I turn the screws as far as they will go in, the SSD is still loose and wiggles around. They need to be 1-2mm shorter.

8. Several of the screw holes on the case were not properly blocked off when it was powder coated, so I couldn't easily put screws into them. The 3 places where I had trouble were the upper right corner of the rear PSU mount, the front left hole for the front PSU mount, and one of the holes on the brace for the carrying handle. I managed to get them in by turning the screws really hard.

9. The PSU mounting screws for the internal SFX kit don't seem to go into my PSU (SX500-LG). I could only get 2 turns in before it felt like they hit a hard stop. What's odd is that the screws that came with the SFX plate kit look the same, but they were able to go in just fine.

10. There are only two types of screws provided for internal component mounting (aside from the large self-tapping screws mentioned earlier): M3x6mm button screws, and M3x4mm countersunk screws. This is fine for the motherboard and SSDs (aside from the length as mentioned in #7), but the issues is that the PCI slots are supposed to use #6-32 UNC screws, but they're tapped for M3 instead. This means that not only can you not use any of the accessories for PCI slots (like thumb screws), but the screws are also undersized, which is a big concern when 2 screws are responsible for holding up a $800 GPU and just barely covers the holes on the GPU's bracket. I might have to pick up some washers just for some peace of mind.

10. This one isn't an issue with the case, but it's something I wanted to point out: if you have a SFX-L PSU and the Asus ROG Strix 1080 Ti, you won't be able to use the front SFX mount. The GPU is too long, and with the cables attached to the PSU, the graphics card won't fit because the PSU's cable push it out of the way. I tried squeezing the cables as much as I could, but it's off by way too much for the Strix to even come close to fitting.

All in all, I'm fairly disappointed with the construction quality of the case. Edit: Sliger has informed me that my case was an exceptionally bad example and not indicative of their usual quality.
 
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MarcParis

Spatial Philosopher
Apr 1, 2016
3,669
2,784
For item #5, it seems that your top cover is not fully in position.
#6 it’s for 3,5’’ hdd
#9 well screws to mount sfx psu...6-32 5mm are provided with the psu, not case
#10 case screws are very easy as there are only two types as you mentionned. For pci express slot, well it’s a compromise link to cerberus size.
#11 well interference between long gpu (placed on very first slot) and sfx-l psu is a known limitation from start. It’s a compromise of sff. That’s the main reason i love my cerberus-x as most of atx motherboard offset first pcie 16x by one or even gpu could be put on other pcie 16x slot.

You are right, there is no instructions manual. It’s missing in order to make cerberus more attractive. Currently you definitely need some previous experience to build inside it and appreciate all cerberus features.
 
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Kanoko Kochano

Efficiency Noob
New User
Dec 5, 2017
5
18
1. The top cover is fully attached. It's the button itself that's slanted. The USB ports are aligned properly.

2. The case does provide 6-32 screws for PSU mounting. As I mentioned, I used the screws included with the rear SFX plate to mount my PSU properly. It's the screws that came with the front SFX kit that I can't screw in.

3. 3.5" drives use #6-32 UNC screws. The included screws (aside from the PSU mount screws which, presumably, you'd use for your PSU) are only M3. There are no provided screws for 3.5" drive mounting.

4. M3 screws for the PCI slots may be a 'compromise', but the reason why 6-32 screws are normally used is because the screw head is usually flanged and acts as a built-in washer. As I've mentioned, the M3 screw barely covers the hole in the GPU's PCI bracket. Any smaller and they would just fall through completely. Also, I don't see any reason why it couldn't be tapped for 6-32; the bracket is thick enough and long enough to easily fit a 6-32 screw.

5. I don't see how the exclusion of a manual makes a case more attractive. And I don't think anyone can appreciate scuff marks, dings, and improperly-cut side panels, no matter how much building experience they have.
 
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Sancus

Trash Compacter
Nov 12, 2017
44
92
If you have an mATX board with a second PCI-E slot, could maybe put the graphics card in that one. PCI-E x8 shouldn't be an issue for GPU performance in any case.
 

3lfk1ng

King of Cable Management
SFFn Staff
Bronze Supporter
Jun 3, 2016
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1,717
www.reihengaming.com

Terrific feedback Kanoko. Well said and very precise!

I too have a few of the errors that you mention but because mine is slate grey, the scuffs are much harder to see.
I have about 4-5 of those little sawblade notches around the edges of the side panels but mine aren't quite as prominent like your's appear to be.

Unlike the screenshot above, my power button is perfectly centered and it's seated well. It almost looks like you got a pre-production top panel as I saw that issue reported many many months ago. As for it being tilted, have you tried bending the panel that the power button is steated into, ever so slightly upwards?

As a novice builder, I could understand how the case would be confusing and/or difficult.
As a veteran, I personally found it to be very straight forward and intuitive.
Printed instructions never hurt though so I agree that they should be included or offered as a .PDF especially if they ever plan to offer retail availability elsewhere (which I don't believe is the plan, but legit professional retail packaging wouldn't hurt.)

I want to go out on a limb to state that I fully expected that we would be the guinea-pigs here. Like many 1st-gen SFF non-mass-manufactured, non-Taiwanese chassis before -the people that are buying into ver 1.0 are the early adapters and the process will only continue to improve with each iteration. As an example, I don't think even the NCASE M1 got everything all sorted out until version 5.0 was released (also see Dan's A4 ver 2.0).

Feedback like the excellent details you have provided will make the case that much better in the future. While the costs are certainly high and it's totally right that most users would normally expect a premium "minty-fresh" product in return, I personally am willing to forgive the smaller issues knowing the history of this case and the fact that it's everything I have ever wanted. I've seen far worse ver 1.0 manufacturing issues on these forums (like that one case with hand-drilled PCIe screw threads that were misaligned, haha)

That being said, I do hope that the larger issues can be resolved so that you're made content with your purchase. KSliger has an excellent history of doing right by their fans so I wouldn't sweat it too much. Just send @KSliger a PM to see what can be done.

Best of luck to you!
 
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Kanoko Kochano

Efficiency Noob
New User
Dec 5, 2017
5
18
To make things clear, I've been building systems since ISA slots were still around and separate math coprocessors were still a thing. In recent years, I've built water-cooled systems in the Mercury S3, Corsair 250D, Compact Splash, NCase M1, and a few Lian Li and SilverStone cases, using both rigid and soft tubing (no AIO's). I know my way around a case.

I did not find it difficult to build in the case, it's certainly a lot more roomy than some of the cases I've worked with in the past. But it does have non-standard parts that, unless they've been attached previously, are not immediately obvious how they should be mounted. For example, it wasn't immediately obvious whether the rear plate for the internal SFX kit should be mounted inside the case or outside, or whether the water cooling holes should be on top or on bottom. In retrospect, one of the screw holes is offset and that gives it away, but I looked up a picture online first before I noticed it.

Likewise, for the internal SFX bracket, I saw the holes on the side indicating where it should be mounted to, but like pretty much any other case with a removable drive cage, I was expecting a second set of holes on the side as well. It was only after I looked closer that I realized that the mounting holes were in front instead of the side.

Then for the carrying handle, I attached the handle before attaching the top panel, and realized afterwards that the top panel has to go on first. Granted, this was an obvious mistake if I had stopped for a moment to think about it, but it was the last step before I could turn on the PC and I was just trying to get everything together.

Including even just a simple leaflet showing Ikea-style instructions on how these non-standard components should be attached can go a long way in avoiding frustration.

Also, although I do understand that it takes a few iterations to get the product just right, I was not aware of the state of this 1.0 release. If I recall, the Cerberus was announced around the same time that the Compact Splash was selling, back in 2013. Given the 4 years in between and the prototypes that have been developed, I assumed that most of the issues had been ironed out already and that, like the initial releases of the A4 and NCase, any issues would have to do with clearance of various parts and tweaking the case dimensions, and not more fundamental matters.

In any case, I don't mean to sour the thread, but I would also be remiss to not bring up my findings, as critical feedback can be helpful as well.
 
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MarcParis

Spatial Philosopher
Apr 1, 2016
3,669
2,784
In fact, i just realized that even before receiving my pre production, i spent a lot of hours studying cerberus topic with @Aibohphobia pictures.

I guess that why i didn’t hesitate what component to use and how to use them in cerberus-x.

I realized i was not so trained/informed of my former builds..lol

At last i just figure out that i’m building since 23 years...my first pc was built with my brothers and it was based on a 486 dx2 66...lol
 
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