Looks amazing but cooling seems fairly limited. What are the temps like?
Three questions:Looks great!
Thanks for all your hard work!
* Why are the back/base plate 4.5mm? Everything else is 3mm. Is this because you need something stronger to hold the PSU?
* Would plywood work (cheaper + i like the wood aesthetic)? Obviously still need to 3d print the sides but i think there is 3d printable wood now.
* Finally, i realized you are a software engineer, so this would be cool (though quite a bit of effort) - configurable panel thicknesses. This could be done using something that generates the STL files for the corners as well as something that slightly modifies the svg's based on the panel thicknesses. That way people could have all 4.5mm panels or all 3mm panels. You could also implement an easy way to change the fan grills. Of course, all of this is quite a bit of time, and quickly approaches something like LZ7 in terms of customization, so probably not worth. I'd totally do it, but i'd do it for money and then i'd feel pretty scum-bag due to LZ7 coming out first. And also doing something open-source like this (web configurator for design your own case, then it outputs parts to print/cut) would also be spitting in k888d's face unfortunately, since i priced it and the case is way less than $50 aud to produce (assuming free access to a cutter/3d printer)
Well no, i'm not really sure if there is a common protocol on this. I tested stability of my overclocks when i put the system together, all went well and ive since had 50+ hours of gameplay on it... im yet to see the psu fan turn on :S starting to get worried about that actually. If you link something i can mimic ill do my best to report some data.Not sure if I missed it in any of your posts, but have you done any temperature testing?
I guess having a printer on hand offsets that down to about 50c a set, not quite the resolution of SLS but at .2 layer height its more than ok, especially at the price point.The SLS printed parts I get made cost more than $50 aud for 1 set, and that's with a volume discount!
Home 3D printers are nice tools to have access to, but the parts they produce are typically no where near as strong as SLS parts which are consistently strong in every direction, not just in the layer plane which you get with FDM.I guess having a printer on hand offsets that down to about 50c a set, not quite the resolution of SLS but at .2 layer height its more than ok, especially at the price point.
At $50 a set and quantities of ~100 you are getting into the territory of SLS printer money, might be a cool toy to have around
I'm not a 3d printing guru - but is SLS expensive due to labour, or the machine?The SLS printed parts I get made cost more than $50 aud for 1 set, and that's with a volume discount!
Home 3D printers are nice tools to have access to, but the parts they produce are typically no where near as strong as SLS parts which are consistently strong in every direction, not just in the layer plane which you get with FDM.
Material cost could easily be 50c a set yes, but how much is your time worth that is spent on making 1 set? setting up the machine, loading, unloading, cleaning, maintaining, repairing, packing, shipping? Maybe 15 minutes per set over 100 sets? How much is your time worth as an hourly rate?
Formlabs are due to release their Fuse 1 SLS machine shortly, set to be one of most affordable machines available, but it still costs nearly £20k for the full kit, across 100 cases that's £200 a set plus material cost, plus labour cost, plus running costs. They also take up a lot of space, not just the machine itself but also for the material handling and post processing which is very messy.
If it was as easy as investing in a simple plug and play machine I probably would have gone that route for the LZ7 production, but unfortunately SLS machines are high maintenance and labour intensive machines, which is reflected in their relatively high in comparison part prices.
I'm not a 3d printing guru - but is SLS expensive due to labour, or the machine?
I'm guessing SLS is the highest possible quality/strength - but with these 4 parts in the YASFF design, i'd wager that you don't need "the best" to make everything hold?