Quick question: Is it a good idea to run 2 2.5" HDDs or SSDs from one SATA 15pin power connector with a Y-splitter?
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Good, because I think I can`t put those normal angled PSU SATA power connectors under the motherboard without a really tight fit.
Do you know the Remix mini? That hardware would probably fit into the mini-cube
(just what came to my mind first)
About the support frame, I read somewhere in this forum the burn marks at some of the sharp edges were due to the laser intersecting with the hexagonal support frame you use below the material for the laser cutting and you were going to try a new one.
Thanks for answering my questions lolIt's the same wood but I've pre-sanded it before cutting, also I'm getting more familiar with the machine.
What do you mean with QinX's support frame? I've only done the cutting for Minefoxi, everything else he has done himself
Nice work I have a question though - how much work would it be (for example if I was to get a laser cut wood case made), to sand down the carbon and get back to clean wood?
I have a question though - how much work would it be (for example if I was to get a laser cut wood case made), to sand down the carbon and get back to clean wood?
ThanksNice work
About the clean wood: I think you'd be better off CNC cutting it
The carbon is only a thin layer though so I'll come off quite easily. At the moment I'm rather trying to keep it as good as I can though
Nice work
Sanding down the carbon to exposes the natural wood depends a lot on thickness of the wood and the design. A simple rectangle can be sanded by hand with ease, but more complex shapes, especially those with inner radii are a little trickier.
Thanks
About the clean wood: I think you'd be better off CNC cutting it
That is a major advantage for CNC milling, no charring whatsoever, the one thing to take into account is that have actual corners is difficult/time consuming. You either need a tiny mill or be able to mill on multiple axis. Also lasercutting in general is a cheaper process, setup times are a lot lower, the programming of the laser tends to be very low and no tool swapping is needed. both have ups and downs ofcourse.
I've not needed to sand the sides parts I've used, but I thing instead of sand paper an abrasive pad might also work, something slightly more abrasive then a toothbrush would work great without damaging the wood too much.
Thanks for the info. My aim in questioning was to get the wood cut my machine as cheap as possible but end up with that 'hand-made' look and feel
No problem, don't worryThis will be my last bit of info in the topic, don't want to hijack Minefoxi's thread too much
I'll see if I can whip up a small example to show off in my KogelMier thread.