This is the second rendition of my first case (here). As previously, this is a general post and a step by step assembly for anyone who's interested.
The case got a whole liter bigger and it's printed with 10 piece, plus a plethora of improvements. As before, it can be printed with a small printer and only uses nuts and screws to attach the different components, no threaded inserts or threads in the plastic.
Model files
www.printables.com
Comparisons to the V1
Overview
Dimensions
193x128x193mm | 4.77L
Build requirements
- 200x200mm print space
- 450g of material
- 6x M3x10 NCS
- 4x M3x12 NCS
- 24x M3x10 CS
- 5x M3x16 CS
- 36x M3 nuts
- 10x M3 washers
Compatibility
Motherboard: ITX, 170x170mm
CPU cooler: 55mm
Memory: 60mm
PSU: Flex 1U
- 82x41x150-170mm
GPU: low profile
- 182x69x42mm
Riser: 20cm double 180° riser
Power button: 16mm
- solid part of the button no more than 17mm (more about this in assembly)
Drives: no dedicated drive space
Improvements
Each side is printed single and at least 4mm thick, which makes them more rigide and be able to take more stress. The modular design make the assembly experience much better and the power supply doesn't rely on the side panel for the anti-sag support, so the case can be worked on standing up. With the front and side panels off It's also an easier time organising cables.
Very little support usage, which was a major flaw of the V1.
The side panels are slide-in now! I wasn't sure if the design would work out from the get-go, but it did and I love it. Also taking the screw count down from 11 to 4.
Better part compatibility; More space for bigger cpu coolers as a 37mm wasn't good enough for me, and for the bigger low profile gpus.
Further fixes
The side panels had a very slight shift, i.e. they could move a little when you pressed down on one of both ends. The two anchor points didn't seem to be enough to truly hold the side panel in place, in spite of the the slides that support them, so I increased it from 2 to 4 screws.
If you do print the case, feedback is appreciated!
Assembly
Parts list
ASRock B520 ITX/ac
Ryzen 5 3600
Thermalright AXP-90 X47 full copper (47mm)
16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance 3600Mhz
1TB Crucial M.2 SSD
RTX A2000 6GB
400W Flex 1U PSU + noctua fan
20cm double 180° riser
16mm power button
_____________________________________________________________________
For everything described: Don't put too much pressure on the parts and especially don't screw in too tightly, you might break or bend something.
These are the 10 parts needed; 6 panels, the spine and 3 smaller components.
1. In preparation, slide in the side panel in a few times, do that for all parts that have sliding action. Depending on how well your print is, this may do nothing, but it did somewhat ease the sliding for me.
2. Screw the feet into the bottom panel. | M3x10 CS
[note: You can use your own feet (i.e. rubber) if you want! The screw goes out 3mm out of the panel, If you require more depth for your feet, use a M3x16 screw.]
[note: I have changed the order of step 3,4 and 5 to a more optimized building process, mind that the images aren't up to date to the instructions.]
3. Place the case sideways and screw the spine into the bottom panel (back and top come after). Before fastening each screw you need to place nuts in the sockets, mind this for each subsequent step. | M3x16 CS
4. Attach the top panel to the spine (like an H form). | M3x16 CS
5. Attach the back panel to the top and bottom panel. | M3x10 CS
6. Place the IO shield.
7. Before attaching anything, place a nut in the space that the riser covers half. Getting it in afterwards isn't fun. After that, prepare the riser with a screw and stack 3x washers on each side. Slot it in and fasten it with a nut on the other side. | M3x10 NCS | M3 washers
8. Angle the motherboard to slot in the riser and slowly put it in it's place. It can little finicky as the riser restricts the movement to a degree. After that screw in the motherboard, use 1x washer with each. | M3x12 NCS | M3 washers
9. You can now put in your gpu and secure it through the IO bracket. | M3x10 NCS
After that place in the psu support. | M3x16 CS
10. Screw in the power supply, the support is enough to hold it in place in conjunction with the side panel. | M3x10 NCS
11. Now is the time to do any cable management you require, as each side is easily accessible. Mind that the cables should be organised in a way that doesn't put too much pressure on the front panel and especially try to avoid having any cable press against the side panels.
Back button version: Put it in before the front panel comes on, so you can organise it with the other cables.
Front button version: Leave some space for the power button. Prepare the power button as depicted, important is that the cables are vertical. The body can have a max total length of 17mm, the cables clear the motherboard as long as they're centered and not too big.
You may encounter some resistance from the cables when putting in the panel, so you need to push against while screwing it in. | M3x10 CS
12. Slot in the side panels and screw em' tight. | M3x10 CS
You're done!
The case got a whole liter bigger and it's printed with 10 piece, plus a plethora of improvements. As before, it can be printed with a small printer and only uses nuts and screws to attach the different components, no threaded inserts or threads in the plastic.
Model files
Printables
www.printables.com
Comparisons to the V1
Overview
Dimensions
193x128x193mm | 4.77L
Build requirements
- 200x200mm print space
- 450g of material
- 6x M3x10 NCS
- 4x M3x12 NCS
- 24x M3x10 CS
- 5x M3x16 CS
- 36x M3 nuts
- 10x M3 washers
Compatibility
Motherboard: ITX, 170x170mm
CPU cooler: 55mm
Memory: 60mm
PSU: Flex 1U
- 82x41x150-170mm
GPU: low profile
- 182x69x42mm
Riser: 20cm double 180° riser
Power button: 16mm
- solid part of the button no more than 17mm (more about this in assembly)
Drives: no dedicated drive space
Improvements
Each side is printed single and at least 4mm thick, which makes them more rigide and be able to take more stress. The modular design make the assembly experience much better and the power supply doesn't rely on the side panel for the anti-sag support, so the case can be worked on standing up. With the front and side panels off It's also an easier time organising cables.
Very little support usage, which was a major flaw of the V1.
The side panels are slide-in now! I wasn't sure if the design would work out from the get-go, but it did and I love it. Also taking the screw count down from 11 to 4.
Better part compatibility; More space for bigger cpu coolers as a 37mm wasn't good enough for me, and for the bigger low profile gpus.
Further fixes
The side panels had a very slight shift, i.e. they could move a little when you pressed down on one of both ends. The two anchor points didn't seem to be enough to truly hold the side panel in place, in spite of the the slides that support them, so I increased it from 2 to 4 screws.
If you do print the case, feedback is appreciated!
Assembly
Parts list
ASRock B520 ITX/ac
Ryzen 5 3600
Thermalright AXP-90 X47 full copper (47mm)
16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance 3600Mhz
1TB Crucial M.2 SSD
RTX A2000 6GB
400W Flex 1U PSU + noctua fan
20cm double 180° riser
16mm power button
_____________________________________________________________________
For everything described: Don't put too much pressure on the parts and especially don't screw in too tightly, you might break or bend something.
These are the 10 parts needed; 6 panels, the spine and 3 smaller components.
1. In preparation, slide in the side panel in a few times, do that for all parts that have sliding action. Depending on how well your print is, this may do nothing, but it did somewhat ease the sliding for me.
2. Screw the feet into the bottom panel. | M3x10 CS
[note: You can use your own feet (i.e. rubber) if you want! The screw goes out 3mm out of the panel, If you require more depth for your feet, use a M3x16 screw.]
[note: I have changed the order of step 3,4 and 5 to a more optimized building process, mind that the images aren't up to date to the instructions.]
3. Place the case sideways and screw the spine into the bottom panel (back and top come after). Before fastening each screw you need to place nuts in the sockets, mind this for each subsequent step. | M3x16 CS
4. Attach the top panel to the spine (like an H form). | M3x16 CS
5. Attach the back panel to the top and bottom panel. | M3x10 CS
6. Place the IO shield.
7. Before attaching anything, place a nut in the space that the riser covers half. Getting it in afterwards isn't fun. After that, prepare the riser with a screw and stack 3x washers on each side. Slot it in and fasten it with a nut on the other side. | M3x10 NCS | M3 washers
8. Angle the motherboard to slot in the riser and slowly put it in it's place. It can little finicky as the riser restricts the movement to a degree. After that screw in the motherboard, use 1x washer with each. | M3x12 NCS | M3 washers
9. You can now put in your gpu and secure it through the IO bracket. | M3x10 NCS
After that place in the psu support. | M3x16 CS
10. Screw in the power supply, the support is enough to hold it in place in conjunction with the side panel. | M3x10 NCS
11. Now is the time to do any cable management you require, as each side is easily accessible. Mind that the cables should be organised in a way that doesn't put too much pressure on the front panel and especially try to avoid having any cable press against the side panels.
Back button version: Put it in before the front panel comes on, so you can organise it with the other cables.
Front button version: Leave some space for the power button. Prepare the power button as depicted, important is that the cables are vertical. The body can have a max total length of 17mm, the cables clear the motherboard as long as they're centered and not too big.
You may encounter some resistance from the cables when putting in the panel, so you need to push against while screwing it in. | M3x10 CS
12. Slot in the side panels and screw em' tight. | M3x10 CS
You're done!
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