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The 2400GE is still in order, but the 200GE, which is also 35w is on its way for testing purposes.
I will test all 3 coolers, but which tests would you guys prefer me to do to get the most accurate readings?
I will test with Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut as a base paste, due to this being the highest performance paste I know of.
I will also test with delidding and Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut (liquid metal). An added extra would be the custom copper IHS I got from rockit cool to test for AM4 cpus
HYPE!!!
Absolutely, it was just an odd response.
I've seen both, but thanks@Valantar. For your reference look at the following 2 vids:
Der8auer's delid of APU with his tool
Gamers Nexus with Custom IHS
I got the same tool as Der8auer has with the special acryl piece
I'm probably going to have to get that myself when I get around to upgrading my HTPC, it's just a shame that the AM4 kit isn't available here in Norway (last I checked the delid die mate wasn't either, but it seems a couple of stores sell them now). Of course I could probably get a matching bolt and cut the acrylic myself, but having it pre-made would be convenient for sure.Good luck, and I'm definitely looking forward to your results!
Thanks! I might take you up on that, but the HTPC upgrade is a ways away still - it might not happen until next year, though you never know.@Valantar, if you want I can order it for you and ship it
All the coolers are in
From left to right: Alu -> Small Copper -> Large Copper
Hey, @BryceK, where did you get the middle cooler?
Isn't ordering off Taobao a complete nightmare? Or has that changed?
While still not everything is in. I did some checking of the components. The big cooler, is to long for my needs (sticks out over the board). Also I noticed that both the larger and smaller cooler with copper heatpipes, also have aluminium as base plate. So those also would need normal paste instead of liquid metal.
Besides that, I also noticed that there are small gaps at the base plate where the heatpipes go through it, they are not flattend to the point they are equal to the aluminium of the baseplate itself. So this would require more thermal paste, and might not cool as adequate.
Solution would be to the cooler to the size is want and CNC it from one solid piece of copper. Making sure the fan would be upgraded to Hydrolic bearings for extra low noice aswell
But thats a future project, first test the bought onces.
Besides that, I also noticed that there are small gaps at the base plate where the heatpipes go through it, they are not flattend to the point they are equal to the aluminium of the baseplate itself. So this would require more thermal paste, and might not cool as adequate.
Solution would be to the cooler to the size is want and CNC it from one solid piece of copper. Making sure the fan would be upgraded to Hydrolic bearings for extra low noice aswell
But thats a future project, first test the bought onces.
Ouch, that sounds ... less than ideal. Looking closely, I think I can see the gaps around the heatpipe on the biggest cooler? That's a shame. As for the length, how much does it stick out by? The heatpipes don't run all the way to the end, so perhaps you'd be able to shorten the fin stack somewhat?While still not everything is in. I did some checking of the components. The big cooler, is to long for my needs (sticks out over the board). Also I noticed that both the larger and smaller cooler with copper heatpipes, also have aluminium as base plate. So those also would need normal paste instead of liquid metal.
Besides that, I also noticed that there are small gaps at the base plate where the heatpipes go through it, they are not flattend to the point they are equal to the aluminium of the baseplate itself. So this would require more thermal paste, and might not cool as adequate.
Solution would be to the cooler to the size is want and CNC it from one solid piece of copper. Making sure the fan would be upgraded to Hydrolic bearings for extra low noice aswell
But thats a future project, first test the bought onces.
As for a DIY solution, wouldn't it be better to get a pre-made 1u fanless cooler (like those fancy vapor chamber+copper fin ones from Dynatron, or maybe an ID Cooling IS-VC45) and 3D print or otherwise DIY a way to hold a blower fan off to the side of it? A bit backwards in terms of mounting, but a solution like this would give you a lot of flexibility in terms of layout, at least (and potentially very good cooling).
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Why not try Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut with those HDT coolers?
38 × 38 × 0,2 size is for AM4
(32 × 32 × 0,2 size for 115x)
38 × 38 × 0,2 size is for AM4
(32 × 32 × 0,2 size for 115x)
I think it sticks out about half an inch, maybe a bit less. When off work ill make a photo.
For the Cooler itself, I just like to design products, which also have great benifits for the SFF market
So I rather do a first time right instead of super DIY
Oh, I agree with that, I was just under the impression that CNCing copper was very difficult, and thought that when there are OTS solutions that solve that issue for relatively cheap, that might end up being a better solution? I'm pretty sure a 3D-printable radial fan shroud for existing 1u passive coolers would be pretty popular in the community tooI think it sticks out about half an inch, maybe a bit less. When off work ill make a photo.
For the Cooler itself, I just like to design products, which also have great benifits for the SFF market
Oh, I agree with that, I was just under the impression that CNCing copper was very difficult, and thought that when there are OTS solutions that solve that issue for relatively cheap, that might end up being a better solution? I'm pretty sure a 3D-printable radial fan shroud for existing 1u passive coolers would be pretty popular in the community too
I did read it aswell that copper is harder to CNC due to it being a softer metal. But I think that there are some specials ways to achieve it
But that is up to the company that may produce it haha
I think the most common way of making heatsinks from copper (that don't consist of entirely separate fins, that is) is skiving. Ought to be a lot cheaper and simpler than CNC, but also less flexible.I did read it aswell that copper is harder to CNC due to it being a softer metal. But I think that there are some specials ways to achieve it
If you look closely at the heatsink within the "Mouth" part of the cooler, it looks like that is Skived aswell. The outer parts are darkned aluminium, I think those are CNCed.
