Josh's new video is up! He fit an i9 and a GTX 1080Ti in the new S4M... :0
Additionally, for anyone deciding which GPU to stuff into their system I would highly recommend an Nvidia card over an AMD card specifically because they have higher performance per watt.
I'm considering going AMD because I don't want to replace my FreeSync monitor. So, on that note, can anyone recommend the highest performance AMD GPU that I can fit in this case?
If you were to buy something right now, you'd likely be able to get an 1800X on an ITX AM4 board into this case. I would advise you to wait however as Ryzen 2 will very likely be announced at CES2018 next week and will likely perform considerably better than current CPUs.
I totally misread GPU as CPU, sorry. As for GPU, AMD really missed the ITX train this time around and I have no idea why.
From what I have been told it's better to put in a new order because the KMPKT products do NOT ship with the MINI for lots of reasons. That will be faster I think overall for you and I don't want any delays.
I definitely would take kittysox's advice and situation under consideration, Tanax. I also would balance it out and say that I've not experienced resets with a 65w CPU and a 1060 (and I have done at least six builds), but I only ran conservative memory modules and did not employ XMP.
If you want to be safe, then yes, go with the HDPLEX 400, but I think you can make the Dynamo Mini work for you. I do believe in the "silicon lottery" especially with power supplies.
The 35W i7 variants are essentially just underclocked versions of higher TDP processors. Since all AMD Ryzen CPUs are unlocked there is nothing stopping you from underclocking one until it has around the same TDP as a 35W CPU. *As long as you're willing to tinker around with it.
Additionally, for anyone deciding which GPU to stuff into their system I would highly recommend an Nvidia card over an AMD card specifically because they have higher performance per watt. That being said if you're going for a high end card like a GTX 1080 Mini be ready for the coil wine D:
Shipping is going to be free anyways and it would certainly keep the administrative end of things cleaner on our end if you just order the Dynamo Mini separately as I won't have to refund, repurchase etc. Thanks!
Also just as clarification, a 65W chip and GTX 1060 pulls more than you're probably thinking as the 65W and 120W numbers everyone uses are average draws and don't account for momentary peaks (<50ms). Furthermore, those aren't the only two components to consider when calculating wattage. As an example:
Intel i5 8400W --> 65W (higher under specific loads)
Z270 Chipset --> 6W
GTX 1060 6GB Founder's Edition --> 122W max average (143W peak)
Other stuff (M.2, Mouse/Keyboard/WiFi, SATA HDD) --> 10W
Conservative load estimates for your configuration is right on the 200W mark with a very reasonable chance you are having < 50ms peaks that are in excess of the 220W overcurrent protection set on the unit. Also consider that unless you are running a Founder's Edition GTX 1060 (very unlikely), your GPU numbers will be higher. I obviously don't want to quash the market for my products, but I also want people to be aware of the real limitations of the unit before they purchase.
With that being said, I would consider undervolting to give yourself some headroom as well as considering a slight down clock on both your GPU and CPU if that doesn't stabilize you. The reality is you likely won't notice a perceivable difference (especially in WoW) with a 5% reduction in performance, but you will definitely notice no hard resets.
Buy the S4M and sell your existing case to recoup some of the cost. The case and the PCIe riser come together and everything else you'll need to buy on your own. This includes:
- Bulgin Switch (32.00 USD on NFC's Website) - http://nfc-systems.com/shop-universal/switch
- AC-DC power supply: Dell 330W is the best bet
- DC-DC power supply: KMPKT Dynamo Mini or HDPlex 160W DC-ATX should suffice for you build (exact same unit and price point with aesthetically different heatsinks). If you want to be safe for overclocking or even high stock clocks, I would instead suggest buying an HDPlex 400W DC-ATX or Dynamo Duo (Dynamo Mini / Dynamo 360 combo) would be safer. The HDPlex is cheaper (95.00 vs 125 USD) versus the Dynamo Duo. While the HDPlex stock cables are okay, a lot of people prefer custom cables, especially for the 24 pin connector. These cost 12.00 each on NFC's website, but really only the 24 pin makes much sense for most.
Side Q: Is a Noctua NH-L9i good enough for a i7-8700K?
Right, I guess what I meant was that I'm not just trying to convert from case to case but to make a major upgrade which I could and probably should hold off on for a year or two. It might help to see my plan for the S4M: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Br3nnan/saved/VWVgLk
Now, my current computer is in an ATX Mid Tower Case (full build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Br3nnan/saved/qjnt6h) so most stuff probably won't translate to a S4M, thus I'll have to spend a lot on the new parts. I'm wondering if Josh has any plans for a new model or if I should buy the S4M now and assume it will still be relevant in a year or two.
Side Q: Is a Noctua NH-L9i good enough for a i7-8700K?