Completed S401: Salvo Studios <8L mITX Steel Unibody Chassis w/ GPU & CPU fans in same direction
- Thread starter grsychckn
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- mitx s400 s401 s700 salvo studios steel case
Hey, @Ichiban welcome to the forums in general and welcome to this thread in particular! I'm just a fan and fellow sojourner such as yourself but I thought I'd like to extend an SFF greeting to you <miniature hand wave>.
I think that the pre-order pricing is as-listed. In a sense, it is the "pre-order discount" already. As you can see by clicking through, this journey has been a winding and treacherous one. I've been following since I first saw the original case in an obscure build on pcpartpicker.com. In my journeys, I've not seen a case that offers quite what the S401 offers in terms of layout and features and that's why I've stayed my buying hand from numerous other cases until now. If you want in, and are quick, there may still be cases from the first batch that aren't claimed yet.
Again, welcome to the forum! Have a look around, meet some folks, and I hope you have as much fun here as I've been having!
Just realized I was one of those obscure builds
. Sorry, I never saw your questions as I tend to only log in when I have a new build to document; but it seems I ended up answering some of those questions here. To answer your other question (a little late) yes that was an ml08 in the comparison photo, and there was no going back.
I've done a number on everyone.
Welcome Ichiban! Thank you for your interest and question on the S401 pre-order. I will say that there is no discount on the pre-order. What you are getting is the opportunity to receive a case from the first batch of 25 cases being made. I'm supposed to be receiving 25 units by the end of this week and from those I have everything else I'll need to ship complete units to customers. After those 25 are sold, it will be 2 weeks until I get the next batch (probably around 50 more units) in stock. If you have any further questions let me know - and again, welcome to SFF Forum!
Welcome Ichiban! Thank you for your interest and question on the S401 pre-order. I will say that there is no discount on the pre-order. What you are getting is the opportunity to receive a case from the first batch of 25 cases being made. I'm supposed to be receiving 25 units by the end of this week and from those I have everything else I'll need to ship complete units to customers. After those 25 are sold, it will be 2 weeks until I get the next batch (probably around 50 more units) in stock. If you have any further questions let me know - and again, welcome to SFF Forum!
OK - below is the prototype suggestion for the button wire/PSU "interference". I want to be careful because although it looks like there is pressure on the button the C13 connector has play to relieve pressure on the button and the same connector wasn't applying pressure on the button solder joints (although it is tight). Tolerances between cases could vary, but I still don't see this as a huge issue even without a fix.
Regardless, what I did was laser out a collar for the button so that it is offset to the outside of the case. You'll notice it's quite thick as I had to use a spare piece of .220" acrylic from my 1/4" pieces I used to cut some sample panels (final will be black opaque). I already purchased some 1/8" (0.118") acrylic so it will be a little more than half the depth of what you're looking at below. I think the 1/8" thick panel will provide a good offset without the button looking funny. Also, it will be less apt to catch the random impact causing it to break. The inner diameter of the collar is 16mm (same as the button) and the outer diameter is set to 22mm. I'm thinking of making it a little larger on the outer diameter once I get the thinner material just to help strengthen it up. You'll note the gap between the solder joint on the button and the C13 connector on the SF600 is actually larger than the collar on the button - this is why I don't think this piece is necessary. Regardless, the 1/8" collar should still provide enough additional tolerance to ease a concerned mind.
Regardless, what I did was laser out a collar for the button so that it is offset to the outside of the case. You'll notice it's quite thick as I had to use a spare piece of .220" acrylic from my 1/4" pieces I used to cut some sample panels (final will be black opaque). I already purchased some 1/8" (0.118") acrylic so it will be a little more than half the depth of what you're looking at below. I think the 1/8" thick panel will provide a good offset without the button looking funny. Also, it will be less apt to catch the random impact causing it to break. The inner diameter of the collar is 16mm (same as the button) and the outer diameter is set to 22mm. I'm thinking of making it a little larger on the outer diameter once I get the thinner material just to help strengthen it up. You'll note the gap between the solder joint on the button and the C13 connector on the SF600 is actually larger than the collar on the button - this is why I don't think this piece is necessary. Regardless, the 1/8" collar should still provide enough additional tolerance to ease a concerned mind.
Totally understand now!OK - below is the prototype suggestion for the button wire/PSU "interference". I want to be careful because although it looks like there is pressure on the button the C13 connector has play to relieve pressure on the button and the same connector wasn't applying pressure on the button solder joints (although it is tight). Tolerances between cases could vary, but I still don't see this as a huge issue even without a fix.
Regardless, what I did was laser out a collar for the button so that it is offset to the outside of the case. You'll notice it's quite thick as I had to use a spare piece of .220" acrylic from my 1/4" pieces I used to cut some sample panels (final will be black opaque). I already purchased some 1/8" (0.118") acrylic so it will be a little more than half the depth of what you're looking at below. I think the 1/8" thick panel will provide a good offset without the button looking funny. Also, it will be less apt to catch the random impact causing it to break. The inner diameter of the collar is 16mm (same as the button) and the outer diameter is set to 22mm. I'm thinking of making it a little larger on the outer diameter once I get the thinner material just to help strengthen it up. You'll note the gap between the solder joint on the button and the C13 connector on the SF600 is actually larger than the collar on the button - this is why I don't think this piece is necessary. Regardless, the 1/8" collar should still provide enough additional tolerance to ease a concerned mind.
Looking good!!I've done a number on everyone.
Welcome Ichiban! Thank you for your interest and question on the S401 pre-order. I will say that there is no discount on the pre-order. What you are getting is the opportunity to receive a case from the first batch of 25 cases being made. I'm supposed to be receiving 25 units by the end of this week and from those I have everything else I'll need to ship complete units to customers. After those 25 are sold, it will be 2 weeks until I get the next batch (probably around 50 more units) in stock. If you have any further questions let me know - and again, welcome to SFF Forum!
Thank you for the warm welcome guys! I would like to probably make a purchase if you can confirm with me if my current system would fit in this case. I have a Zotac 1070 Mini which apparently doesn't fit into the Sentry 2.0 DR Zaber case. Wiill I have the same problem with this case? I have a Asus z170i pro gaming, GSKILL ram, Zotac 1070 mini. Do you happen to know which PSU would also be suitable? Sorry for the amount of questions, this is my first time ever looking into SFF. I need to build something which I could use to travel around with, I live in Asia and live in North America from time to time, hence why I would like to bring a solid PC with me!
Thanks once again guys.
Zotac 1070 mini will easily fit. As for PSU recommendations, I will point you to this post I made today about compatible PSUs. If you can, try to pick a PSU from that list that doesn't require an adapter as those will cost more money.
I'd watch out for your CPU cooler clearance as well. Try poking around the forum a bit for a cooler that suits your motherboard and intended use. For myself, I've been more or less happily using a Cryorig C7. You won't be breaking any speed records, but you ought to have a happily running machine. Odd that the Zaber would be advertised to not fit a 1070 mini...
Indeed, I thought the same so I looked at their compatibility sheet and sure enough, the 1070 mini is listed as incompatible. I wonder why.
@grsychckn are you able to replicate that last photo without the spacer on the power switch? That might make things a little clearer.
I'm going to have to setup my photography equipment again as it's really hard to get a clear photo without all the light. I can't even take it outside because it's been raining for over a week now - we might get some sun tomorrow.
On a similar note, I wanted to share that I thought to bend the terminals on the button 90 degrees to help make clearance. In doing so, it allows the button terminals to completely clear the PSU connector on the SF600. Because I'm bending the terminals and not the wires I belive this to be a good solution. I also looked at other buttons that are shorter in depth but won't offer the LED. If I went that route it would be nearly $700 for me to buy and have shipped, of which I'd be eating the cost (and there is already no profit margin on the S401). Sufficed to say, I believe there to be three options available right now:
1. Bend the terminals - I think I'll do this before anything ships and I'll do this on all buttons.
2. Include the collar I'm making - adds clearance for more peace of mind.
3. Leave everything alone and let the wires come in contact with the C13 plug.
I am planning on performing #1 & 2, while #3 is not an option for me at the moment.
Below are pictures of the front panel button without the spacer/collar installed but with the terminals bent flush both inside and out of the case.
Even with the shadows, you can see the back of the case proving there is clearance. Also, the wires are loose in this picture (no tension).
Edit: I want to add that better pictures are coming but my main priority right now is getting imaging done for the installation manual.
Yes, you are correct sir. I was looking at their GPU compatibility image and if the GPU is oversized you can't also have the power connector on the side, it has to be on the end. This is probably because they flip the GPU and are thus limited by the edge of the case.
Oh, I see. The shroud/PCB extends above the bracket too much and the PCI power can't plug in without interference.
Well, dang, hope it does get clearer out there. Is it Florence-related? That storm looked like a monster. Honolulu has had some desperately close calls in the last month and I'm very grateful that we've been spared. Hoping for the best for everyone out on those coasts.
On a similar note, I wanted to share that I thought to bend the terminals on the button 90 degrees to help make clearance. In doing so, it allows the button terminals to completely clear the PSU connector on the SF600. Because I'm bending the terminals and not the wires I belive this to be a good solution. I also looked at other buttons that are shorter in depth but won't offer the LED. If I went that route it would be nearly $700 for me to buy and have shipped, of which I'd be eating the cost (and there is already no profit margin on the S401). Sufficed to say, I believe there to be three options available right now:
1. Bend the terminals - I think I'll do this before anything ships and I'll do this on all buttons.
2. Include the collar I'm making - adds clearance for more peace of mind.
3. Leave everything alone and let the wires come in contact with the C13 plug.
I am planning on performing #1 & 2, while #3 is not an option for me at the moment.
Below are pictures of the front panel button without the spacer/collar installed but with the terminals bent flush both inside and out of the case.
Even with the shadows, you can see the back of the case proving there is clearance. Also, the wires are loose in this picture (no tension).
Edit: I want to add that better pictures are coming but my main priority right now is getting imaging done for the installation manual.
The bent button thing is a neat solution too. I was gonna ask if the acrylic spacer came in RGB. (side note: I guess that "none" on our color selector is white. I laughed at the thought of it turning the words transparent. File this under "useless facts" I guess...)
The options you've presented are more than enough and I think you've already gone above and beyond. I like the look of the spacer but if that means more machine time for such a tiny part that isn't worth your while, bent pins on the button are a fine solution. It's probably one of the easier parts of the case to replace anyway if worse came to worse.
Yeah, it is Florence related. I certainly have nothing to complain about as the storm basically went very West and now north of me. It has been an inconvenience because I'm waiting for an exhaust vent to be installed on the roof (need sunny weather) before I can continue laser cutting but there are lots of people who really have/will endure dire circumstances.
Not sure what you mean: can you elaborate where you are selecting color? I'm worried I overlooked something on the website.
Thank you - I will include the spacer with every case to ensure users have the option that works best for them. In the end, the spacers will only take a few hours to make and at the cost of electricity + sheet of acrylic, so a few dimes each. Thank you all for your support!
It was more of a joke. It looked like a blue sheet that you had cut it from so I was joking that it should be light-up RGB for the extra blingz. Then I got sidetracked by the font options.
On topic: 20th is this Friday already, totally didn't notice that! That means... I've got just a couple of weeks to clear my desk and my schedule...
Looks like the 90 degree bend pretty much solved any potential worry I had with it. Gotta love those simple fixes!
A somewhat related question, have we seen any pictures of with the front IO installed, or am I crazy and just missed it?
