I thought the manufacturer was Delta Electronics?
Thats the DA330PM111
I thought the manufacturer was Delta Electronics?
Thats the DA330PM111
Ah yeah I see now. The new 330 watt brick I just got is a GT1CX/LA330PM160 by Lite-On Technologies. The sticker is formatted differently as well. I can take a picture of it if someone wants. So far it's running great. Pushed my 7700k to a slight overclock and played Overwatch for a couple of hour without issue (Overwatch was causing my old brick to trip and cut power).
I'm still convinced that my old brick was genuine... Just not the "best" model
Those are terrible temps. Get an LP53 or an ITX30 .I went ahead and did this with a $50 Dynatron B6:
Only way that I know of to get an all-copper, vapor-chamber cooler for the 115X socket. If anyone knows a better way I'm all ears.
Those are terrible temps. Get an LP53 or an ITX30 .
that's not bad at all! An LP53 with an NHL9i fan, and the heatsink towers removed, should drop your temps considerably, at LEAST 5c all around I'd guess.That's an 8700k @ 4.6ghz on 6 cores at once, and anything that's not Prime95, including mining, seems to run at least 10c cooler than that.
You really think the LP53 heatsink would run cooler with the same fan? If so I'll buy one to test out.
They're designed to run hot and be reliable at temperature. Especially on a high end board like that, where the heatsinks are largely aesthetic Considering the airflow you have going on, I don't think it will be a problem personally.@CubanLegend, could any problems arise from removing the heatsinks? Do the VRMs need them?
**NEED HELP**
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Through inspection the power lead was stuck and could not be removed, however managed to remove it after some time turning it to wiggle it out and looks like there is no damage on the both the lead and power slot. The power brick still lights green when turned it but seemed quite hot after the incident, upon some research i believe it could be a capacitor going beyond it's limit which could be the reason why it "popped".
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That's unfortunate :/
Good job being thorough on the information - I just have one question: Which power lead/connector are you referring to? (the one that was stuck) was it the 24pin cable from the HDPlex to the mobo [and which end], the one from the power brick to the interior cable [that goes to the hdplex], or the one from the interior cable to the hdplex?
Knowing that might help us to help you narrow it down a bit...
edit for clarity...
Assuming it was genuine and performed to specification, there's a chance a capacitor just wasn't up to snuff and died early. Or, if you had spiky power draw, you could have tripped the OCP and blown the fuse.Hi,
sorry to clarify it was the DC connector (one from the power brick to the interior cable) didn't know the name for it so i tried to describe the best i could haha.
**UPDATE**
tested with a corsair RM550x PSU and everything seems to work as normal which is good. However still haven't pin pointed the problem, my guess would be the HD PLEX 400 but i don't want to jump to conclusion. Reason being is that when plugged the power brick into the wall the green light still turns on, however i do not have another power brick spare to properly test to see if it is the HD PLEX 400. Also the DELL 300w power brick purchased was not direct from DELL which could be what lead to this issue, just a side note i was using the wires included with the HD PLEX, may need to upgrade them as they don't scream quality which could be another factor. Any help would be great, planning to purchase another power brick and buy direct from DELL but if anyone knows why this was caused, i'll be so grateful as i don't want to throw more money at it not knowing what may have caused this to happen.
sorry to clarify it was the DC connector (one from the power brick to the interior cable) didn't know the name for it so i tried to describe the best i could haha.
**UPDATE**
tested with a corsair RM550x PSU and everything seems to work as normal which is good.
just a side note i was using the wires included with the HD PLEX, may need to upgrade them as they don't scream quality which could be another factor
Assuming it was genuine and performed to specification, there's a chance a capacitor just wasn't up to snuff and died early. Or, if you had spiky power draw, you could have tripped the OCP and blown the fuse.
I believe it won't fit with the side panels on
What about with a Noctua fan?