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S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)

Choidebu

"Banned"
Aug 16, 2017
1,199
1,205
Plastic protection from the bottom of the heat sink? Checked multicore advancement and some games like battlefield, performance is dramatically decreased so turned it back on although temps did drop slightly
Are you using low noise adapter that comes with the noctua? If you do try removing that, and see if the noise level is acceptable for you.
 

m_power20

Trash Compacter
May 16, 2017
39
21
I get you @Jordy , however good the new S4M is, the classic stole my heart first ^^

I love mine so much that I'm afraid to make any modifications to it. Makes me fearful to make a brickless model because I don't want to modify the DC barrel jack hole. I also don't hope to fit anything more powerful than a 1070 in it.
 
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CubanLegend

Steely-Eyed NVFlash Man
Dec 23, 2016
834
1,011
smallformfactor.net
lol i was posting in the S4M thread. realized that here is my home :-D

i had the asus z270-i with an delidded 6700k + LP53 + Noctua fan.
Prime gets me 87-89°C

Tomorrow im delidding the i7 8700k and throwing the z370-i into the mix.
Im curious how the temps behave.

anyone posted here about the 8700k in the S4M-C recently?
LP53 fam!!! :D I love that i took the plunge and found out the LP53 and the Nf-A9x fan is like the best possible cooling solution in the S4M-C, so glad to see others using this combo sucessfully along with a delid to contain top end intel K chips at acceptable temps!
 

Broxin

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jun 16, 2017
188
135
If i want to test pre delid and post delid, can i throttle the Power Limit to 65W to not hit the 100 Celcius CPU limit when heating up via prime?

In default mode, the i7 8700k hits 100Celcius on 4.4GHz on all cores right now.

If i shift the Temperature with reducing PowerLimit, can i test it at 65W pre and post delid and have the difference in xx celciu,
or will the PowerLimit reduction falsify the Temperature difference result?
 

Biowarejak

Maker of Awesome | User 1615
Platinum Supporter
Mar 6, 2017
1,744
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A Tragedy in the Family:

It had always bowed out a bit, keeping the IO shield from contacting the motherboard. I'm not even sure what to say anymore. I'm sorry @Josh | NFC!
 

Josh | NFC

Not From Concentrate
Original poster
NFC Systems
Jun 12, 2015
1,869
4,468
www.nfc-systems.com
A Tragedy in the Family:

It had always bowed out a bit, keeping the IO shield from contacting the motherboard. I'm not even sure what to say anymore. I'm sorry @Josh | NFC!

What the...

This is horrific.. what happened? Motorcycle wreck? looks like you are going to have to find someone who can TIG weld or you will have to JBweld and sand.
 

Biowarejak

Maker of Awesome | User 1615
Platinum Supporter
Mar 6, 2017
1,744
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What the...

This is horrific.. what happened? Motorcycle wreck? looks like you are going to have to find someone who can TIG weld or you will have to JBweld and sand.
Thankfully nothing that catastrophic, just normal handling, but yeah. Thanks for the tip, I think I'll go the JBWeld route. Any advice for refinishing the frame?
 

W1NN1NG

King of Cable Management
Jan 19, 2017
616
532
Thankfully nothing that catastrophic, just normal handling, but yeah. Thanks for the tip, I think I'll go the JBWeld route. Any advice for refinishing the frame?
You shouldn’t have to if you don’t use the clear weld and just use the black stuff. Just focus on standing the jb instead of frame. Just tape off actual frame after you get it together and then sand and frame should be fine. You can take some finishing compound and polish the jb after that
 
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Josh | NFC

Not From Concentrate
Original poster
NFC Systems
Jun 12, 2015
1,869
4,468
www.nfc-systems.com
Thankfully nothing that catastrophic, just normal handling, but yeah. Thanks for the tip, I think I'll go the JBWeld route. Any advice for refinishing the frame?

I've not handled mine normally (I want to build up a "patina" from use and travel) and it still is great. I wonder what caused your bowing to begin with? There shouldn't be any bowing so if we can find that source and fix it could keep your case in good shape for years to come :)
 
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Biowarejak

Maker of Awesome | User 1615
Platinum Supporter
Mar 6, 2017
1,744
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I've not handled mine normally (I want to build up a "patina" from use and travel) and it still is great. I wonder what caused your bowing to begin with? There shouldn't be any bowing so if we can find that source and fix it could keep your case in good shape for years to come :)
That's fair :) It was probably at least exacerbated when I was cutting out the clearance for the heatsink backplate, but even before it had a pronounced bend. it should be fine though; I can set it now with the JBweld and it'll be nice and perpendicular. I'm tempted to drill into the wrap-around panel and make use of the mounting hole on the flange as well.
 
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WhiteWolf

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
May 14, 2017
3
5
Hi, long time lurker here...I have a question regarding a possible project I may go about doing in the future with my S4 mini. I'd like to use a 4-pin aviation connector with my HDPlex 400w (aesthetic reasons combined with my wish for a more secure connection), and, while wiring that is straightforward, I'm a bit confused with how I would change the connector on the Dell 330w that I'm currently using.... I greatly appreciate it if anyone could advise me how to go about it since I assume (haven't attempted anything yet, just to be safe) that there are 3 cables beneath the insulation (red/blue, black, and white-neutral; please correct me if I'm wrong). This makes me cautious since I assume that red/blue (Live) is to V-in and black is to GND on the HDPlex schematic but am un-confident as to where the neutral wire should go. Does it get wired to the terminal leading to GND on the HDPlex just like the black wire, but distinguishes itself from those wires in that it is not earth grounded?
Sorry if I'm explaining it poorly, I can post a rough sketch if needed. I also have some experienced people I know that I've consulted with but wanted to hear input from the community which has had specific experiences with this; I mostly only have experience with circuitry repairs such as retro gaming consoles as a hobby so any input that I can learn from is greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton!!! ~Sorry for the long text...:oops:
 
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Biowarejak

Maker of Awesome | User 1615
Platinum Supporter
Mar 6, 2017
1,744
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Hi, long time lurker here...I have a question regarding a possible project I may go about doing in the future with my S4 mini. I'd like to use a 4-pin aviation connector with my HDPlex 400w (aesthetic reasons combined with my wish for a more secure connection), and, while wiring that is straightforward, I'm a bit confused with how I would change the connector on the Dell 330w that I'm currently using.... I greatly appreciate it if anyone could advise me how to go about it since I assume (haven't attempted anything yet, just to be safe) that there are 3 cables beneath the insulation (red, black, and white-neutral; please correct me if I'm wrong). This makes me cautious since I assume that red (Live) is to V-in and black is to GND on the HDPlex schematic but am un-confident as to where the neutral wire should go. Does it get wired to the terminal leading to GND on the HDPlex just like the black wire, but distinguishes itself from those wires in that it is not earth grounded?
Sorry if I'm explaining it poorly, I can post a rough sketch if needed. I also have some experienced people I know that I've consulted with but wanted to hear input from the community which has had specific experiences with this; I mostly only have experience with circuitry repairs such as retro gaming consoles as a hobby so any input that I can learn from is greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton!!! ~Sorry for the long text...:oops:
Welcome to the forum! Sorry that I can't answer your question, but you've certainly come to the right place :)
 

Thirumal Kumaran

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jan 22, 2018
146
67
Hi, long time lurker here...I have a question regarding a possible project I may go about doing in the future with my S4 mini. I'd like to use a 4-pin aviation connector with my HDPlex 400w (aesthetic reasons combined with my wish for a more secure connection), and, while wiring that is straightforward, I'm a bit confused with how I would change the connector on the Dell 330w that I'm currently using.... I greatly appreciate it if anyone could advise me how to go about it since I assume (haven't attempted anything yet, just to be safe) that there are 3 cables beneath the insulation (red, black, and white-neutral; please correct me if I'm wrong). This makes me cautious since I assume that red (Live) is to V-in and black is to GND on the HDPlex schematic but am un-confident as to where the neutral wire should go. Does it get wired to the terminal leading to GND on the HDPlex just like the black wire, but distinguishes itself from those wires in that it is not earth grounded?
Sorry if I'm explaining it poorly, I can post a rough sketch if needed. I also have some experienced people I know that I've consulted with but wanted to hear input from the community which has had specific experiences with this; I mostly only have experience with circuitry repairs such as retro gaming consoles as a hobby so any input that I can learn from is greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton!!! ~Sorry for the long text...:oops:

Letme try to explain as much as I know.
1. Dell adaptors has a detection system, to find the right adaptor is plugged in. That's the center terminal. Outer should be -ve or (GND) and mid should be +ve.
2. HDplex 400 (DC-DC) Does not use the detection and uses only +ve and GND from the DC Jack and splits to 6 terminals to feed in.

So if you can follow the DC Jack which comes with HDplex, it should start from 2 connectors (2x3).
If you are converting to 4 pin DIN, (I still wonder, is it worth the effort?) splice the dell connector, and correspondingly map to the DIN.

Again, is it worth going through, all as the Dell powerbricks are notorious in failure (Debated), you might need to do this again & again...
 

WhiteWolf

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
May 14, 2017
3
5
Oh I see, thank you! That helps a lot @Thirumal Kumaran. Also, thanks for the welcome earlier @Biowarejak. For the most part, I'm very hesitant to try it on a dell brick for similar reasons as you mentioned above. I would probably only attempt this if I happen to get a spare one or an upgrade haha... So, as of right now, I'm more or less messing with the idea in thought and might practice on low voltage items for experience. Thanks again! I hope I can be of some help in the future as well.
 

BrotherStein

Cable-Tie Ninja
Nov 11, 2017
168
136
@WhiteWolf I wonder how close the cheaper after-market versions are to the Dell authentic ones. You could try practicing on those if you had the spare change. I've been trying to get a brickless S4M going, so you might look into that as well; cut out the Dell brick completely XD. Good luck!
 

Mauley

Chassis Packer
May 6, 2018
20
9
Hi guys,

I have the opportunity to purchase the following;

NFC S4M-C + (GPU extension cable and power button)
HDPlex 300W PSU
Dell 1511 300W Power Brick

All of this for £235 including delivery

Does this seem like a good deal?. I have heard great things about this case and plan to put the following build into it:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor (£143.99 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L9i 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler (£35.13 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: ASRock - H310M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£64.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£152.60 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£318.00 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card (£258.46 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £973.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-16 11:03 BST+0100


Thanks
 

Mauley

Chassis Packer
May 6, 2018
20
9
Seems a good deal if the dell brick is original..
Else.. You can go for the Skyreach. I personal feel it is better than S4M-c

Guess I will check with the seller first if the brick is an original as I have read about the issues faced when using a fake brick.

The new Skyreach mini would cost a lot to bring over to the UK unfortunately and this is a UK seller so will be a lot cheaper for me to grab this one.
 
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