That could be possible. Currently there are a series of tabs hidden behind where the pieces meet, but I can make that area slightly thinner to make an opening and also place an acrylic piece with holes or other sheet as a ventilation panel.
Prototype MT5: 5.4L Expandable case for mini GPUs
- Thread starter CC Ricers
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That could be possible. Currently there are a series of tabs hidden behind where the pieces meet, but I can make that area slightly thinner to make an opening and also place an acrylic piece with holes or other sheet as a ventilation panel.
I guess Sketchup kind of grew on me! I used to be acquainted with more typical CAD software in high school (AutoCAD from last decade) but haven't used that in quite some time so I have to re-learn the workflow.
I also wish there were cheaper AMD options. The cheapest AMD mini mobo is actually a thin-ITX mobo but you lose out on more I/O and it's a low-end A320 chipset.
i honestly don't really care about a320m, for me sff is about size, i wouldn't overclock in it
For the rest well, except i/o, only one pcie slot exist so....
I just saw that asrock had an A320 itx board but i can't find it to purchase.... pretty sad that am4 itx board are starting at 125 buck
For the rest well, except i/o, only one pcie slot exist so....
I just saw that asrock had an A320 itx board but i can't find it to purchase.... pretty sad that am4 itx board are starting at 125 buck
True, but for me I usually have 3-4 USB ports full and I'd like to have at least 2 spares for thumb drives and other devices. This case isn't planned for front USB ports, for now at least. Also I prefer having some decent onboard audio so I don't have to resort to using my Xonar U3, which wastes one extra port when plugged in.
On another note, about to make the order for the next prototype print which should also be at least 99% the final design to be sold. This order would be about $50 for the two main parts so I want these pieces to be as clean looking as possible with the materials used.
On another note, about to make the order for the next prototype print which should also be at least 99% the final design to be sold. This order would be about $50 for the two main parts so I want these pieces to be as clean looking as possible with the materials used.
Thanks.
Are there any pros/cons to using plastic vs steel/aluminum for cases? I'm not familiar with 3d printing so I thought I'd ask. Will the plastic not get brittle over time?
New piece was just completed by the printer shop, and it looks good from here. All it needs is the motherboard tray piece to add most of the components.
I might want to experiment with having the model flipped upside down. This requires more supports to print upside down but if it helps make the surface finish on the outside cleaner than on the inside (where the supports are removed) I may prefer to print some pieces that way.
One neat feature that I want to mention now is that the case can be used in "bench mode" when placed horizontally and with the other attaching piece removed. Here is a render of how that could look.
This makes it very easy to start building without dealing with a cramped area around the motherboard.
Completing the case build is as simple as placing the other side attachment, side panels in-place.
Printing in plastic is much cheaper than machined steel or aluminum when producing very low quantities. You'd need to batch production in the hundreds to reach reasonable prices per unit and I'm not at the point where I would know if demand would be that high.
Plastic like this gets brittle only over extreme cold temperatures. I'm using ABS plastic which is less brittle upon breaking than the cheaper PLA used for prototyping. ABS is a common plastic used for electronic enclosures such as game consoles so expect the plastic to be as tough as that.
I might want to experiment with having the model flipped upside down. This requires more supports to print upside down but if it helps make the surface finish on the outside cleaner than on the inside (where the supports are removed) I may prefer to print some pieces that way.
One neat feature that I want to mention now is that the case can be used in "bench mode" when placed horizontally and with the other attaching piece removed. Here is a render of how that could look.
This makes it very easy to start building without dealing with a cramped area around the motherboard.
Completing the case build is as simple as placing the other side attachment, side panels in-place.
Printing in plastic is much cheaper than machined steel or aluminum when producing very low quantities. You'd need to batch production in the hundreds to reach reasonable prices per unit and I'm not at the point where I would know if demand would be that high.
Plastic like this gets brittle only over extreme cold temperatures. I'm using ABS plastic which is less brittle upon breaking than the cheaper PLA used for prototyping. ABS is a common plastic used for electronic enclosures such as game consoles so expect the plastic to be as tough as that.
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To add, the cost associated is because of two main reasons:
1. You are paying for a more qualified person to set up, start, QC, and process the machine that mills your part. Skilled labor can be expensive.
2. You are paying for "machine time," essentially renting time for that machine to run your project. A cnc milling machine costs 50-200x a 3d printer. So machine time is much more expensive.
1. You are paying for a more qualified person to set up, start, QC, and process the machine that mills your part. Skilled labor can be expensive.
2. You are paying for "machine time," essentially renting time for that machine to run your project. A cnc milling machine costs 50-200x a 3d printer. So machine time is much more expensive.
Yeah these are good points, especially useful if you can also factor in "machine space" in which how much usable printable space is taken by the model. Some shops take advantage of this by batching together different models for the same material and color.
I would also agree getting a 3D printer is preferred option not just since I have more control over the process but also reduce cost overhead. But I don't just want to settle for any cheap one and ones I'd settle with are not within my budget right now. I want to see first how these units could move and then maybe put back some of earnings (plus I'm in transition with jobs so budget is tight) towards purchasing my own equipment.
If I do go with my own 3D printer in the longer run, I could settle for the Ender 3 with glass bed and look for some good configurations to dial in for ABS plastic. Got word yesterday from one of the suppliers that these pieces are too difficult to print with the supports facing on the inwards sides (model upside down) because it warped and failed on a few attempts. Well, that's set me back somewhat but at least I got a refund for the service.
Yeah, printers are getting cheaper and if I go for getting my own in the long run, I'll probably settle on a Ender 3 with glass bed and then look up some good configurations to dial in for printing with ABS plastic. One of the suppliers told me yesterday that orienting the models upside down resulted in complications from printing because of warping with the material, and they made several attempts. So that was a few days wasted, but at least I was refunded for the service.
On another note, @yawacool sent me some nice samples of Li-Heat riser cables to test out. I will be testing out the 25 cm version with this case and this will probably be the default that the case would support.
On another note, @yawacool sent me some nice samples of Li-Heat riser cables to test out. I will be testing out the 25 cm version with this case and this will probably be the default that the case would support.
I'd go with the prusa Mk3. The steel magnetic build, good quality, good documentation can't be beat.
The prusa is pretty expensive now
But it's one of the best model so....
The ender3 should be enough for prototyping, i believe they are constantly upgrading it too (and the whole 3d printing community love it so the community is here until a better/cheaper one come out)
Anyway, for yhe cleaner surface on top can't you get sandpaper and the solution (don't recall the name but it make prints cleaber through evaporation)
But it's one of the best model so....
The ender3 should be enough for prototyping, i believe they are constantly upgrading it too (and the whole 3d printing community love it so the community is here until a better/cheaper one come out)
Anyway, for yhe cleaner surface on top can't you get sandpaper and the solution (don't recall the name but it make prints cleaber through evaporation)
Received the first piece of the multi-piece case today. GPU side, tolerances are better, walls are sturdy and it just looks great in white. Looking forward to receiving the other parts now that the issues are corrected 
Yeah, low starting costs is what attracted me to the Ender 3. Besides, I believe that this is the printer that my supplier is using for the specific parts I received so I have gotten an idea of how good the parts can turn out with the right setup and calibration.
Also, there is a discrepancy between the Prusa i3 and Ender 3 due to the design of my case. The X-Y area of the Prusa i3 doesn't exceed 210mm, but my case is 214mm on the longest side, just barely out of the area bounds. On the other hand, the Ender 3's X-Y area extends to 220mm on both dimensions.
Optimally I want to print these pieces in the flattest orientation so the Ender 3 will have to do. Making the case shorter than 210mm would rule out compatibility with ~190mm length cards. I'd have to re-design the case via splitting into smaller parts to meet compatibility with smaller print areas.
Yeah, low starting costs is what attracted me to the Ender 3. Besides, I believe that this is the printer that my supplier is using for the specific parts I received so I have gotten an idea of how good the parts can turn out with the right setup and calibration.
Also, there is a discrepancy between the Prusa i3 and Ender 3 due to the design of my case. The X-Y area of the Prusa i3 doesn't exceed 210mm, but my case is 214mm on the longest side, just barely out of the area bounds. On the other hand, the Ender 3's X-Y area extends to 220mm on both dimensions.
Optimally I want to print these pieces in the flattest orientation so the Ender 3 will have to do. Making the case shorter than 210mm would rule out compatibility with ~190mm length cards. I'd have to re-design the case via splitting into smaller parts to meet compatibility with smaller print areas.
Yeah the ender 3 looks pretty good as well, especially the pro version.
I bought the prusa mainly for the self leveling, calibration, and good firmware support. 3d printing is just a lot of work in general though, especially with cheaper units. Took me a whole day to dial in a different filament.
I bought the prusa mainly for the self leveling, calibration, and good firmware support. 3d printing is just a lot of work in general though, especially with cheaper units. Took me a whole day to dial in a different filament.
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