Not cheap but Protocase can definitely do about any sheet metal work you'd want: http://www.protocase.com/
Concept MK-2 (Sub 6L Watercooled SFF)
- Thread starter Zackmd1
- Start date
Slightly revised design. Eliminated a good amount of 3D material, almost $30 worth! If I take it one step further and eliminate the internal frame and just use the rear panel as the main structure then I think we could be in business!
Lovin' the front curve. I know it's been on there for two different iterations, but have only seen it now - even stuff like the two level pocket at the front top (to save material I'm assuming) looks amazing! One idea that I had (pretty crazy) is to design a 3d printed water distribution system. I've seen Xometry's youtube video, and it looks like SLS parts are pretty watertight. To save tubing and make space more efficient, you could create a hollow container with paths built into it that could route coolant from the radiator to the cpu/gpu. Heck, you could even integrate a pump (mount/head) into it, if the HP printer has the capability.
Agreed. SLS is pretty solid (RIP brown flower pot). I really like the square grid pattern, it reminds me of some of the Inwin grills and I mean that in the best way possible!
Figured out that leaking problem the hard way with my custom radiatorAgreed. SLS is pretty solid (RIP brown flower pot). I really like the square grid pattern, it reminds me of some of the Inwin grills and I mean that in the best way possible!
Did you ever finish that btw? Came across the thread yesterday when searching for non-standard radiators.Figured out that leaking problem the hard way with my custom radiator
now where you had dual slot gpu i would say you can better use aircooled gpu and watercooled cpu cause of the fans of Zalman CNPS2X or the Thermaltake Engine 27 would be make so much more noise as the normal gpu air cooler, in special case that the air cpu cooler get no direct fresh air and the airflow is blocked from pcb of the gpu.
Or you try to cool cpu and gpu with the dual 80mm radiator, like quinx 3l custom mod.
Or you try to cool cpu and gpu with the dual 80mm radiator, like quinx 3l custom mod.
I was going to recommend the NT07-115X. I have it and it is quieter than most of the fans in my system.
I wound up getting it sealed with some stuff from the hardware store. Just haven't gone to test it yet
bit of a PITA since I'm running hardline.
Any time where it's hidden, and when the loads on it are purely in terms of pressure so there's no risk of layer lamination. Relatively specific scenario, but it does exist
Any time where it's hidden, and when the loads on it are purely in terms of pressure so there's no risk of layer lamination. Relatively specific scenario, but it does exist
This is true but just as you said, only in very specific cases can it be used as a functional part.
So not much outward progress to report on with the case. I am currently in that tedious phase of turning a concept into a manufacturer-able part. I did make a major change to the case in the form of an aluminum backplate. Now instead of the motherboard mounting to a plastic frame, it will mount directly to the aluminum back plate through the use of countersunk M3 bolts and 5.5mm aluminum/plastic spacers.
This cuts down on 3D print cost considerably and should make the case much more structurally sound. I also messed around with the renders a bit and made a black and red anodized aluminum render!
Having the motherboard IO cutout so close to a bend line will cause problems. If the manufacturer can do a tight bend radius you may be able to keep it as it is, otherwise you'll have to use taller standoffs.
I expect to modify the IO shield a bit in order to fit properly. My thinking on this is that I am not going to increase the case thickness by about 5mm when I can just easily modify the shield to fit.
The board will be raised 5.5mm off of the rear plate. From what I have read and from my current board, that should be just enough to fit most motherboards out there with a rear m.2 slot. The IO plate should not need much modification to fit, just a bit of a trim to the lip around where the graphics card is.
Ok, but just so you're aware, you may get distortion like this along the motherboard IO shield cutout close to the bend: http://www.matrixmminc.com/designref.html
Also, the bridge between GPU I/O and MB I/O is way thin, it could easily break. You should seriously consider moving the GPU up a little to make that bridge larger. If the whole thing is going to be watercooled, you could even go for single-slot cards only, but that might throw some people off. Or you could remove that bridge entirely.
I likely will end up removing the bridge as currently it is only 1.5mm thick... By removing the bridge I can then drop the GPU 1.5mm adding that material to the top bridge.
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