Stalled This is what I've been working on lately (4.3L watercooled)

[SeñorDonut]

If you are good with bending, do it your self. If not go protocase or something similar.

I've never done bending before, but Protocase or a similar service seems cost prohibitive - I've heard of people spending tens of thousands of dollars on cases this way, and while I'm sure it's higher quality, it's not an expense I'm able to afford. Hey, at least I get some experience

 

[CC Ricers]

It's up to you, but some case designs look nice as solid, flat sheets of metal screwed on together. Plan the measurements of the parts you need in your CAD software of choice, list them out and purchase the pieces cut to size in an online metal store. Then it's mostly about how you would fasten the pieces together.

 

[SeñorDonut]

I'm thinking I might want to use that thing that Lian Li uses to snap their panels into the case, does anybody know what the name of it is, if it's possible to purchase them, or should I just try to make my own mechanism?

 

[Biowarejak]

I'm thinking I might want to use that thing that Lian Li uses to snap their panels into the case, does anybody know what the name of it is, if it's possible to purchase them, or should I just try to make my own mechanism?

You mean like the system that Cerberus uses?

 

[SeñorDonut]

You mean like the system that Cerberus uses?

Yup!

 

[Biowarejak]

Yup!

I forget exactly what it is called, but it's a push-pin mechanism and I think the version KI developed is intended to be superior from a cost and usability standpoint the thread should have more information, but it's probably better just to ask @Aibohphobia

 

[Necere]

The Lian Li stud & clip fasteners are proprietary to them, and the studs are joined by welding. Jonsbo have something similar as well. AFAIK, there's no way to get them without going through one of the aforementioned companies, or having your own tooled up and manufactured.

The ones used in the Cerberus, in contrast, are off the shelf parts that are readily available. These are either pressed into the sheet metal, or screwed in, though, so they won't be completely hidden on the outside (unless using a female ball stud with a concealed-head threaded standoff).

 

[SeñorDonut]

The Lian Li stud & clip fasteners are proprietary to them, and the studs are joined by welding. Jonsbo have something similar as well. AFAIK, there's no way to get them without going through one of the aforementioned companies, or having your own tooled up and manufactured.

The ones used in the Cerberus, in contrast, are off the shelf parts that are readily available. These are either pressed into the sheet metal, or screwed in, though, so they won't be completely hidden on the outside (unless using a female ball stud with a concealed-head threaded standoff).

This is exactly what I needed, thanks! It looks like the swage-in studs are the ones I want? How should I fasten them?

 

[Necere]

This is exactly what I needed, thanks! It looks like the swage-in studs are the ones I want? How should I fasten them?

The installation instructions are in the first link.

 

[SeñorDonut]

The installation instructions are in the first link.

Leave it to me to go to the exact page I needed to and not scroll down. Thanks for tolerating my brain fart

 

[SeñorDonut]

Okay. after more thinking, I really can't decide whether to use swage-in, flare-in, or self-clinching. It looks like swage-in and self-clinching show through on the other side, but that's fine because I'll powder coat it. I guess the question here is, which is cheapest? It looks like I'll have to buy some kind of press for all 3, which sounds expensive, could I just solder in the studs if I go with the swage-in style? I'm a bit concerned about the durability of that though.

Alternatively, I could just use male thread studs and screw them in, then sand them down.

 

[SeñorDonut]

 

[AleksandarK]

So it is 3×60mm rad now?

PLEASE SHARE MORE!

 

[SeñorDonut]

So it is 3×60mm rad now?

PLEASE SHARE MORE!

Apparently G-Unique (guryhwa) makes radiators. I don't have too much detail on it yet, but 50% increase in surface area is always good. His design is pretty innovative as instead of having a big lump on the side with G1/4 holes, the radiator is only as wide as the cooling area with two smaller holes near the corners of one fan for 6mm tubing. I'm concerned the tubing won't be big enough, but I'm no expert on that.

The case is 25mm wider to fit the radiator, but the volume stays under 5L and I can now fit a low profile expansion slot for things like 10G NICs. I've put the ball stud idea on hold for now, and I'm just using some cool low profile screws I found. Maybe I'll put ball studs in a second revision, but it just overcomplicates things for now.

I've also rearranged the USB and audio ports in a way that should make it easier to make a PCB for, and added some keystone ports, 3 on the front and 1 on the back. This will allow users to install a front HDMI port for VR, extra USB ports, hell even some banana plugs if that tickles your fancy.

 

[slimjim]

Apparently G-Unique (guryhwa) makes radiators. I don't have too much detail on it yet, but 50% increase in surface area is always good. His design is pretty innovative as instead of having a big lump on the side with G1/4 holes, the radiator is only as wide as the cooling area with two smaller holes near the corners of one fan for 6mm tubing. I'm concerned the tubing won't be big enough, but I'm no expert on that.

got any pics?

 

[SeñorDonut]

got any pics?

 

[SeñorDonut]

Is carbon fiber reinforced ABS or nylon suitable for this? Trying to find a filament with comparable strength to steel that can handle 1mm panel thickness. Maybe 2mm if I absolutely have to.