Completed Lone Industries L5 - 4.6L Mini ITX
- Thread starter Lone
- Start date
I can confirm the Asus GTX 1050Ti low profile is fanless at idle. Haven't run any benchmarks or played any games yet, but I'll update with more info once I get a better idea of how it performs when the fans spin up. I know there's not much info out there about this card, but so far it seems like a great option!
I measured 37mm from outside of GPU PCB to outside of fan shroud on the Asus. There is also a plastic back plate (seems like a poor thermal choice) which adds about 3mm to total thickness. It is 23mm from outside of PCB to the top of the heat sink (so fans/shroud is 14mm thick), leaving maybe 20mm from the heat sink to the inside of the case for an aftermarket fan. The PCB is pretty close to the front case fans (~5mm) so I think it will be getting plenty of fresh air along the heat sink from the front of the case. It idles at ~35*C in fanless mode.
I just finished migrating my HTPC into the Lone L5 and the build went really smoothly. As you will see below, everything is packed really tight in the case, but not having a front I/O really makes assembly and cable management much easier. The case is designed really well and I didn't have any conflicts between my parts and the case, but tolerances are tight.
Build:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85N-Wifi
CPU: Intel i5 4590S Haswell refresh, 65W TDP
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 1600MHz 2x4GB
GPU: Asus GTX 1050Ti OC 4GB low profile
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo mSATA 250GB
PSU: Mini-Box picoPSU 160XT DC-ATX with 192W external brick
CPU Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B.
CPU Fan: Phanteks PH-F120MP 120mm PWM
Case Fans: NoiseBlocker NB Multiframe M8-P 80mm PWM
Now on to the pics!
Old case (Silverstone ML08B) to new:
Old build in the Silverstone:
Motherboard moved into its new home and CPU fan swapped:
Another view to show how tightly everything is packed in there:
Clearance between CPU cooler fan and top of case:
View through the front with the fans in place (and the reason why I chose black fans):
Size of 192W external brick vs case:
Couple of notes on the case/build:
-The removable front fan bracket is really well designed and slips into the case with the fans installed even with the motherboard/CPU cooler in place. It also moves the fans a few mm from the front mesh to avoid turbulence.
-The clearance between the NoiseBlocker fans and the picoPSU is pretty tight and I had to bend the wires and route them carefully to keep them from conflicting with the fans. I think a DC-ATX PSU with wires that exit parallel to the front of the case would be ideal (like Archdaemon or HDPlex), but these are also thicker overall than the Mini-box unit, so it might be tight no matter what.
-A SSD could technically fit between the EPS-side of the motherboard and the case, but the additional wires would be difficult to manage so an on-board hard drive (M.2 or mSATA) is really helpful here.
-The power switch and PSU input jack are really well-placed so they don't interfere with anything despite the large CPU cooler.
-The Scythe Shuriken with a 25mm thick fan set to exhaust sits very close to the case vent, but this effectively seals the exhaust so it all passes through the heat sink, prevents recirculation of hot air, and the thicker fan can be run slower while maintaining good temps so there's no turbulence. Another option would be using a slim 120mm fan with a shroud to direct all exhaust through the top vent.
-The size of the ventilation holes on the front mesh is large enough that you would plainly see the color of the case fans. That's why I chose the NoiseBlocker all-black fans over similar Noctua or Redux fans, plus I was curious about the NB fans.
-Overall my build is absolutely silent at idle and low load, even if it were right next to me on a desk. Since it will be sitting 10 feet away from me in my media center, I can turn the fans up a little bit without noticing any fan noise and maintain positive pressure in the case.
Build:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85N-Wifi
CPU: Intel i5 4590S Haswell refresh, 65W TDP
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 1600MHz 2x4GB
GPU: Asus GTX 1050Ti OC 4GB low profile
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo mSATA 250GB
PSU: Mini-Box picoPSU 160XT DC-ATX with 192W external brick
CPU Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B.
CPU Fan: Phanteks PH-F120MP 120mm PWM
Case Fans: NoiseBlocker NB Multiframe M8-P 80mm PWM
Now on to the pics!
Old case (Silverstone ML08B) to new:
Old build in the Silverstone:
Motherboard moved into its new home and CPU fan swapped:
Another view to show how tightly everything is packed in there:
Clearance between CPU cooler fan and top of case:
View through the front with the fans in place (and the reason why I chose black fans):
Size of 192W external brick vs case:
Couple of notes on the case/build:
-The removable front fan bracket is really well designed and slips into the case with the fans installed even with the motherboard/CPU cooler in place. It also moves the fans a few mm from the front mesh to avoid turbulence.
-The clearance between the NoiseBlocker fans and the picoPSU is pretty tight and I had to bend the wires and route them carefully to keep them from conflicting with the fans. I think a DC-ATX PSU with wires that exit parallel to the front of the case would be ideal (like Archdaemon or HDPlex), but these are also thicker overall than the Mini-box unit, so it might be tight no matter what.
-A SSD could technically fit between the EPS-side of the motherboard and the case, but the additional wires would be difficult to manage so an on-board hard drive (M.2 or mSATA) is really helpful here.
-The power switch and PSU input jack are really well-placed so they don't interfere with anything despite the large CPU cooler.
-The Scythe Shuriken with a 25mm thick fan set to exhaust sits very close to the case vent, but this effectively seals the exhaust so it all passes through the heat sink, prevents recirculation of hot air, and the thicker fan can be run slower while maintaining good temps so there's no turbulence. Another option would be using a slim 120mm fan with a shroud to direct all exhaust through the top vent.
-The size of the ventilation holes on the front mesh is large enough that you would plainly see the color of the case fans. That's why I chose the NoiseBlocker all-black fans over similar Noctua or Redux fans, plus I was curious about the NB fans.
-Overall my build is absolutely silent at idle and low load, even if it were right next to me on a desk. Since it will be sitting 10 feet away from me in my media center, I can turn the fans up a little bit without noticing any fan noise and maintain positive pressure in the case.
Reminds me of those ugly Palaeolithic side vents from once upon a time cheap cases.Any thoughts on this CPU vent? Like/dislike?
Even though it's not ugly.
This is a standing case so those holes take that shape and you prefer it exhausts from the back.
Is power switch and Psu input jack purchased separately ? Any photos of the backsideI just finished migrating my HTPC into the Lone L5 and the build went really smoothly. As you will see below, everything is packed really tight in the case, but not having a front I/O really makes assembly and cable management much easier. The case is designed really well and I didn't have any conflicts between my parts and the case, but tolerances are tight.
Build:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85N-Wifi
CPU: Intel i5 4590S Haswell refresh, 65W TDP
RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu DDR3 1600MHz 2x4GB
GPU: Asus GTX 1050Ti OC 4GB low profile
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo mSATA 250GB
PSU: Mini-Box picoPSU 160XT DC-ATX with 192W external brick
CPU Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 2 Rev B.
CPU Fan: Phanteks PH-F120MP 120mm PWM
Case Fans: NoiseBlocker NB Multiframe M8-P 80mm PWM
Now on to the pics!
Old case (Silverstone ML08B) to new:
Old build in the Silverstone:
Motherboard moved into its new home and CPU fan swapped:
Another view to show how tightly everything is packed in there:
Clearance between CPU cooler fan and top of case:
View through the front with the fans in place (and the reason why I chose black fans):
Size of 192W external brick vs case:
Couple of notes on the case/build:
-The removable front fan bracket is really well designed and slips into the case with the fans installed even with the motherboard/CPU cooler in place. It also moves the fans a few mm from the front mesh to avoid turbulence.
-The clearance between the NoiseBlocker fans and the picoPSU is pretty tight and I had to bend the wires and route them carefully to keep them from conflicting with the fans. I think a DC-ATX PSU with wires that exit parallel to the front of the case would be ideal (like Archdaemon or HDPlex), but these are also thicker overall than the Mini-box unit, so it might be tight no matter what.
-A SSD could technically fit between the EPS-side of the motherboard and the case, but the additional wires would be difficult to manage so an on-board hard drive (M.2 or mSATA) is really helpful here.
-The power switch and PSU input jack are really well-placed so they don't interfere with anything despite the large CPU cooler.
-The Scythe Shuriken with a 25mm thick fan set to exhaust sits very close to the case vent, but this effectively seals the exhaust so it all passes through the heat sink, prevents recirculation of hot air, and the thicker fan can be run slower while maintaining good temps so there's no turbulence. Another option would be using a slim 120mm fan with a shroud to direct all exhaust through the top vent.
-The size of the ventilation holes on the front mesh is large enough that you would plainly see the color of the case fans. That's why I chose the NoiseBlocker all-black fans over similar Noctua or Redux fans, plus I was curious about the NB fans.
-Overall my build is absolutely silent at idle and low load, even if it were right next to me on a desk. Since it will be sitting 10 feet away from me in my media center, I can turn the fans up a little bit without noticing any fan noise and maintain positive pressure in the case.
0% fan speed low profile 1050ti?!!?!? And you got it on Woot for $99! What a steal!
@Dynamite thank you for the detailed build log and photos! I'll add a link to your post on the first page under builds. I also appreciate the measurements of the Asus GPU. Very impressed that Asus would allow the fans to turn off at low load.
This is how I feel also. After having discussed with my manufacturer the warping issue, it appears my only options are to invest in a cluster punch to get rid of warping, or change the vent design.
The power switch is included with the case. The power input jack should be included with your plugin DC-ATX unit (purchased separately).
This is how I feel also. After having discussed with my manufacturer the warping issue, it appears my only options are to invest in a cluster punch to get rid of warping, or change the vent design.
The power switch is included with the case. The power input jack should be included with your plugin DC-ATX unit (purchased separately).
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@Dynamite
What can you share about that GPU when gaming?
I'm thinking 1080p gaming only.
Have you tried it at all?
If so - is it pretty loud/sounds like a hairdryer, etc?
I'm trying to find a fit for the Lone case + picoPSU sitting next to me and wondering if I could use it all for a low/mid range gaming build for my uncle.
I've tested this RX 560 LP I have here when gaming and it gets pretty loud and I'm not sure he'd really enjoy that. That said, the 1050ti is a fair bit better card I believe, so I'm curious.
Appreciate any thoughts you or anyone has on this.
What can you share about that GPU when gaming?
I'm thinking 1080p gaming only.
Have you tried it at all?
If so - is it pretty loud/sounds like a hairdryer, etc?
I'm trying to find a fit for the Lone case + picoPSU sitting next to me and wondering if I could use it all for a low/mid range gaming build for my uncle.
I've tested this RX 560 LP I have here when gaming and it gets pretty loud and I'm not sure he'd really enjoy that. That said, the 1050ti is a fair bit better card I believe, so I'm curious.
Appreciate any thoughts you or anyone has on this.
As @Lone mentioned, the power switch is included with the case, but its location is in the far corner of the rear above the I/O ports so it is unlikely to conflict with anything. The AC-DC input jack itself comes with DC-ATX unit, but is gets installed just above the PCI-E opening so the wires can run between the GPU PCB and the CPU cooler. Here's a view of the rear on mine:
I guess stalking r/buildapcsales pays off again! It was kind of an impulse buy and largely responsible for motivating me to move to a smaller case. In the ML08 I was running a 1060 3GB and it was plenty powerful for the types of games I play on my TV (platformers and emulators). I stick to mouse/KB for all my FPS games on my main gaming computer where GPU horsepower is needed more.
I previously had a Zotac 1060 ITX (short PCB, single fan) with a fixed 40% idle fan speed. I flashed the vBIOS to a different Zotac 1060 model that had a fanless mode (full PCB with dual fans) and everything worked great. You could look into something similar for the 560, just be sure to save the original vBIOS first so you can reflash if needed.
Interesting thought.
Any commentary about your 1050ti at gaming and fan speeds/noise, etc?
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Not yet but I'll see if I can get in some gaming this evening. FYI I usually play games like Dead Cells, Sundered, Ori, and other side-scrolling platformers which are not very graphically intense.
At idle and when streaming from NAS or Netflix, I'm seeing temps of 35*C on CPU and 33*C on GPU with case fans at 800rpm, CPU fan at 650rpm, and GPU fans off.
Do you have a guide for doing that? I tried it on my Gigabyte 1050ti low profile and definitely screwed something up. I was able to re-flash the stock BIOS though.
Sadly, my motherboard seems to have something quirky going on, it won't let me restart the computer. It can go to sleep and wake up just fine, but anytime I try to restart it just reboots to a blank screen. I have to unplug it from the wall and let it sit for about 30 minutes before I can get it to power back on.
I didn't follow a guide per se, but there are many available. In general the steps are:
1. Make sure your iGPU is active in the BIOS in case your discrete card becomes inactive
2. Use GPU-Z to save your stock vBIOS
3. Use the techpowerup vBIOS library to download the vBIOS of a compatible graphics card
4. Use NVflash (Nvidia) or ATIflash (AMD) to flash the new vBIOS in DOS
5. See if your card survived!
I am being speaking in generalities on purpose here as I am far from an expert in this area and I don't think I could provide more specific guidance than this.
The hardest part is finding a compatible vBIOS. I would stick to the same manufacturer and same clocks to have the greatest chance of a compatible vBIOS.
Thanks, pretty much what I did. I have a Gigabyte 1050 ti low profile and I used a BIOS from a Gigabyte 1050 ti full size that didn't require an extra power adapter and had a zero RPM mode. I may try it again... whats the worst that can happen if I recovered it once...?
Well - I just tried to flash the closest I could find within the same manufacturer..
Sadly, it didn't work - but I am back now with originally rom at least.
Sadly, it didn't work - but I am back now with originally rom at least.
I guess it's a flash party then - I just finished flashing my Gigabyte LP for the Gigabyte D5, which is a full size card with a zero RPM mode. The flash was successful and I'm able to set the GPU's fan to zero RPM, however the fans no longer respond to changes in the fan profile.
Thinking about it more, I assume it is because the model I flashed the BIOS from likely has a 4 pin PWM fan and the model I flashed only has a 3 pin fan.
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