-
Save 15% on ALL SFF Network merch, until Dec 31st! Use code SFF2024 at checkout. Click here!
Power Supply HDPlex 400W AC-DC Adapter
- Thread starter Reldey
- Start date
-
- Tags
- acdc nfc power power supply
i'm in the USA.
got several of them delivered to me last week.
will probably get rid of my extra.
Thanks for reminding me of division 2, I was given a free code with my Ryzen 7 2700X CPU to download the game :-) but no pewter to play!!!
Right now I'm quite busy anyway trying to figure out what materials to use as a DIY SSD/HDD bracket so I can stack 2x2 2.5" 7mm drives on top of each other. (yes 4 drives in a S4mini)
All purpose brackets seems to be minimum 25mm but I only have 15ish available and I'm not sure if it's safe that the drives are touching each other or the middle of an aluminum T profile...
Last edited:
Touching drives should be fine as there shouldn't be any charge between them.
Depending on the weights involved and the amount that you move your case you may be able to use a double sided thermal adhesive like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MUTF4A/?tag=theminutiae-20
Or you could 3d print your own brackets similar to this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3079625
It would probably have to be smaller but if you wanted to leave a 1mm gap and your drives are 7mm then it should be ok.
I got an email from Larry stating that the second batch should be shipping early next week then received a USPS label created notification. Order no. = 21874
Thanks for the reply,
Unfortunately I don't have a 3D printer for now. So eventually I bought a 15mm x 2mm x 1m aluminum plate and just made a first template so I can cut and drill 4 new ones at once without marker lines etc. Cutting by hand wasn't that easy and drilling without a fixed drill was not very nice either. Plan B is to use somebody's workshop and make the brackets there.
I did leave a 1mm gap though, enough room for a thermal pad in between the drive, SSD on top, thermal pad inbetween and Seagate HDD at the bottom.
Cheers!
This is what I did before:
Eventually went away with it, because I made it with 2 mm space between them and it bulges behind my gpu and touching the side panel (S4M-C). If it was 1 mm it would've been fine.
I can't remember why I didn't just use a straight bracket, might feared the bracket touching the gpu and shorted some leads...
Eventually went away with it, because I made it with 2 mm space between them and it bulges behind my gpu and touching the side panel (S4M-C). If it was 1 mm it would've been fine.
I can't remember why I didn't just use a straight bracket, might feared the bracket touching the gpu and shorted some leads...
A straight bracket will take a few degrees off and keep things a little cooler I think... wille figuring out what to make I came to the conclusion there are no 14mm brackets on the market yet :-)
Mine was also shipped. I doubt it will make it here though since it looks like from the dhl tracking it only mentions my apartment number not my street name :/
Got my tiny AC-DC baby on Saturday, couldn't be happy more with it!
Already sanded and tested. Feels like brick doesn't give a crap about hot temperature and works flawlessly even with 1080 mini dumping enormously hot air straight into PSU.
Dynamo 360 was overheat-resetting until I flipped it upside down. That way large bottom heatsink protects the unit from hot air. Now when the system is stable I can finally start cutting and sleeving cables.
Tomorrow would be a year since the thread has started and I can say the wait was worth it. Unit's stability is great, the fan is very silent and the minor coil whine could only be heard when putting an ear closely to the unit.
Fantastic job, Larry!
Already sanded and tested. Feels like brick doesn't give a crap about hot temperature and works flawlessly even with 1080 mini dumping enormously hot air straight into PSU.
Dynamo 360 was overheat-resetting until I flipped it upside down. That way large bottom heatsink protects the unit from hot air. Now when the system is stable I can finally start cutting and sleeving cables.
Tomorrow would be a year since the thread has started and I can say the wait was worth it. Unit's stability is great, the fan is very silent and the minor coil whine could only be heard when putting an ear closely to the unit.
Fantastic job, Larry!
I was thinking about doing the same thing, with the rtx 2070 (as in Josh’s custom build). Did you file down the HDPLEX to fit? If so, how? Was planning on filing mines down, but was looking at the block last night and realized I’d probably have to disassemble the sides first.
I haven't disassembled PSU, just unscrewed side screws, stuffed cottonwool in every possible whole to avoid dust getting into the circuit board and started sanding it with a grinding wheel. I had to grind 1mm from each side to fit it in the front of case. A monotonous process I must say, took me more than 2 hours.
If I would start the build all over again, I'd get an rtx 2070 inno3d and stuff wires directly into the gpu-power slot without connector on it (like Josh did some time ago on stream)
To me it's as clean as you can possibly get.
my suggestion would be removing your SkyReach's flange, so that a HDPLEX AC-DC fits in the front, instead of this sanding technique.
a brickless build like that, was shown in Josh's youtube video.
By "removing" to you mean sawing off a piece of inner chassis? It's a whole part and can't be disassembled.
i mean cutting it off.
after watching Josh's RTX2070 youtube video where it has been done, my conclusion is that this piece is like your wisdom teeth, appendix, or tonsils.
yes, i know that they originally come with your body, but what purpose do they serve ?
and why not just remove them ?
I wouldn't do that. First and foremost - it simply wouldn't work.
The reason it works in the video is because of "fat-boy" mod of the skyreach, you can see that side panels are using spacers which makes the whole case 2-3 mms bigger.
Cutting one rail would win you around 1.5 mm, but considering my practice and calculations you would need at least 2.3 mms of free space to get brick in the front of case. That's because motherboard plate is overlapping railing making space even more tight.
Also don't forget that you are losing case rigidness when cutting parts off it, and yeah, parts are exchangeable, case is forever
And here are some words from Josh himself on the mod. (timecoded)
while i highly respect Josh, the great thing is that i have free speech rights, to respectfully disagree with him.
many of Josh's opinions are not independently objective, because he makes the SkyReach, & admits himself that he thinks it needs absolutely no improvement.
but note that in this same series of youtube videos, he states considering a SkyReach length increase, from 348mm to 363mm.
that idea has been suggested for almost 2 years now, but Josh repeatedly said it made no sense.
my opinion where i'm respectfully disagreeing, is that this flange shouldn't even be there, in the first place.
Sure man, you're free to think whatever you wish, I'm just trying to warn other people in this thread that even with cutting of flange you would need to use grinder to fit PSU in the case. And in my opinion there's no point in doing both, you can get along with grinding.
Well, I'm glad I'm the one who got on the 348mm train since Skyreach JUST fits my rigid backpack
, that wouldn't be possible even with 355mm.you would raise your sidepanel's height instead.
Josh could do it, as part of a build you paid him for.
Similar threads
