Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.6%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 355 75.4%

  • Total voters
    471

thelaughingman

SFF Guru
Jul 14, 2018
1,413
1,566
@Wahaha360 with the 2-rad configuration are you basically limited to the HJ slim rad? What is the max height for the side mounted radiator + fans?
going from 3-slot mode to 1.25-slot mode gives you additional 35mm clearance over from GPU chamber to CPU chamber for radiator + fan (since CPU block + fitting clearance remains at ~50mm) -> TX240 + A12x15 would still work
 

paulesko

Master of Cramming
Jul 31, 2019
415
322
@Wahaha360 with the 2-rad configuration are you basically limited to the HJ slim rad? What is the max height for the side mounted radiator + fans?
The psu is like 7cm thick, the GPU takes around 2.5-3 cm.... that is like around 10 cm .... the whole case is 133 mm wide, so we have 33mm left give or take....
 

Goatee

King of Cable Management
Jun 22, 2018
739
1,513
The psu is like 7cm thick, the GPU takes around 2.5-3 cm.... that is like around 10 cm .... the whole case is 133 mm wide, so we have 33mm left give or take....

The thickness you have to play with is largely driven by the thickness of your GPU block.

I managed a 15mm fan, 17mm radiator and a 5mm space with stand-off. I used a Blyski block, EK is even thinner. Some of the new 3000 series cards have thicker acrylic, so be careful.

 

paulesko

Master of Cramming
Jul 31, 2019
415
322
Maybe single fan on one half of the radiator, and then rely on the PSU fan on the remaining side?
well on the 3d the fasn on the psu is pointing to the opposite side. Maybe I´ve given a bit too much room to the GPU and my calculations are not very precise. we will see.


On a side note, I have a hardwarelabs GTX (60mm thick rad) on the side of my Ncase M1 and in order to use it I´ve modded the psu, which is now fanless (only 54mm thick, the same than the IO on the motherboard), but it´s not a problem since it has a fan so close to it that the psu works just fine; the fan is putting air outside of the case. But this would demand modding a psu, which is not something very usual to do.

But it´s something one can do, because it could allow to use full size fans or a thicker rad.
 

paulesko

Master of Cramming
Jul 31, 2019
415
322
The thickness you have to play with is largely driven by the thickness of your GPU block.

I managed a 15mm fan, 17mm radiator and a 5mm space with stand-off. I used a Blyski block, EK is even thinner. Some of the new 3000 series cards have thicker acrylic, so be careful.

We are just speculating, and I don´t have a t1 to measure first hand how it would work.... but looking at your build is going to be tight, the side rad on this case. I like a lot the idea.
 
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carlouws

Efficiency Noob
Nov 1, 2020
7
4
It would be great if the 1-slot GPU config for watercooled GPUs were compatible with the EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3080 water block. It may already be compatible but just in case.
 

Wahaha360

a.k.a W360
Original poster
SFFLAB
NCASE
SSUPD
Feb 23, 2015
2,131
10,697
@Wahaha360 with the 2-rad configuration are you basically limited to the HJ slim rad? What is the max height for the side mounted radiator + fans?
The psu is like 7cm thick, the GPU takes around 2.5-3 cm.... that is like around 10 cm .... the whole case is 133 mm wide, so we have 33mm left give or take....
Maybe single fan on one half of the radiator, and then rely on the PSU fan on the remaining side?

Enough of space on the Mobo side for 15mm slim fans (Noctua or Arctic) on 20.5mm thick TX240
 

shadow_coder

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Apr 28, 2020
3
3
@Wahaha360 Thank you for the update. I do have some questions:

1) With the increased dimensions of the case, will the T1 1.2 support 25 mm fans on the (top) 240mm rad?
2) The EKWB 240 AIO rad have these non-rounded rectangular ends which makes it impossible to slide the rad against the front-frame. The actual problem is because of this it's impossible to place a third (25mm) fan below the rad AND screw it onto the rad. Will there be a fix for this issue for the V1.2 model (or later revision)?
3) any ETA or update on the T1 Accessories described on https://formdworks.com and the bespoken PCIE 4.0 riser-cable ?
 

m0lly

Chassis Packer
Nov 29, 2018
15
23
Just finished building in my Titanium T1 and wanted some thoughts to try to improve CPU/chipset thermals.

ECO mode and undervolting aside. Would downgrading to a 120MM AIO + 2x NF-A12x25 be better in this setup due to the amount of heat generated from my 3090? In its current state it's dumping too much heat to the 240MM radiator. I know deshrouding the GPU + adding exhaust fans is another option. I'm not the only one with this setup that has noticed this as you can see HERE. Switching the slim Noctua fans to intake helped a lot but at the cost of higher GPU thermals. I know thermals wouldn't be great with this much power in such a compact system but I had the parts in hand so I had to see for myself.

Ryzen 5950X
ASUS TUF RTX 3090 OC
ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
32GB Crucial Ballistix RGB 3600 C16
EK-AIO 240 D-RGB
2x Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM Chromax
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
Corsair SF750 + Custom Unsleeved Cables


 

cennis

Average Stuffer
Jan 13, 2020
66
50
Just finished building in my Titanium T1 and wanted some thoughts to try to improve CPU/chipset thermals.

ECO mode and undervolting aside. Would downgrading to a 120MM AIO + 2x NF-A12x25 be better in this setup due to the amount of heat generated from my 3090? In its current state it's dumping too much heat to the 240MM radiator. I know deshrouding the GPU + adding exhaust fans is another option. I'm not the only one with this setup that has noticed this as you can see HERE. Switching the slim Noctua fans to intake helped a lot but at the cost of higher GPU thermals. I know thermals wouldn't be great with this much power in such a compact system but I had the parts in hand so I had to see for myself.

Ryzen 5950X
ASUS TUF RTX 3090 OC
ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
32GB Crucial Ballistix RGB 3600 C16
EK-AIO 240 D-RGB
2x Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM Chromax
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
Corsair SF750 + Custom Unsleeved Cables

It sounds like exhaust fans might be the simplest solution. I have heard noise levels go up/changes pitch when trying to pull air through the GPU heatsink.

 
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Wahaha360

a.k.a W360
Original poster
SFFLAB
NCASE
SSUPD
Feb 23, 2015
2,131
10,697
Just finished building in my Titanium T1 and wanted some thoughts to try to improve CPU/chipset thermals.

ECO mode and undervolting aside. Would downgrading to a 120MM AIO + 2x NF-A12x25 be better in this setup due to the amount of heat generated from my 3090? In its current state it's dumping too much heat to the 240MM radiator. I know deshrouding the GPU + adding exhaust fans is another option. I'm not the only one with this setup that has noticed this as you can see HERE. Switching the slim Noctua fans to intake helped a lot but at the cost of higher GPU thermals. I know thermals wouldn't be great with this much power in such a compact system but I had the parts in hand so I had to see for myself.

Ryzen 5950X
ASUS TUF RTX 3090 OC
ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
32GB Crucial Ballistix RGB 3600 C16
EK-AIO 240 D-RGB
2x Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM Chromax
Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
Corsair SF750 + Custom Unsleeved Cables



120AIO should be enough for your 5950X. Doing so allows for *two 25mm thick fans, which is more important in your setup.

I suspect you have a health budget, so if you are really concerned about cooling capacity on 120AIO, then use Koolance 30FPI 120 copper radiator for a custom loop with Noctua or Arctic Fan. It will get you close to 240 AIO performance on 120mm radiator, and you get two 25mm thick fans with this setup.
 

PKAWA

Master of Cramming
May 27, 2020
490
488
I just changed the original antenna that came with the Asus Z370 for some green taoglas ones and the difference is really night and day.
Didn't really expect it because the originl offers the option to place it away from the case. But with the Taoglas antenna's all my connection issues are just gone.
So I can recommend them to anyone that is looking for a pair of shorter ones. Even if they are green.

Oh yeah and don't try and stain them with black die in hot water because I've tried it and ruined a pair of them.
 
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m0lly

Chassis Packer
Nov 29, 2018
15
23
It sounds like exhaust fans might be the simplest solution. I have heard noise levels go up/changes pitch when trying to pull air through the GPU heatsink.

120AIO should be enough for your 5950X. Doing so allows for *two 25mm thick fans, which is more important in your setup.

I suspect you have a health budget, so if you are really concerned about cooling capacity on 120AIO, then use Koolance 30FPI 120 copper radiator for a custom loop with Noctua or Arctic Fan. It will get you close to 240 AIO performance on 120mm radiator, and you get two 25mm thick fans with this setup.

Deshrouding the TUF is an option I am considering but I'm leaning more towards the 120 AIO route since I'm still within the return period for the EK 240 AIO that is currently being used + I have spare A12x25 fans laying around from a previous NCase build.

How big of a difference would temps be between a custom loop 120 vs EK 120 AIO? Was also looking at a couple air coolers that work in 3 slot mode (Black Ridge + AXP-90)

Also how much of a thermal difference would I see you think moving to a 120 AIO? 5-10C?
 

Navic

Master of Cramming
Jan 6, 2019
587
1,341
Deshrouding the TUF is an option I am considering but I'm leaning more towards the 120 AIO route since I'm still within the return period for the EK 240 AIO that is currently being used + I have spare A12x25 fans laying around from a previous NCase build.

How big of a difference would temps be between a custom loop 120 vs EK 120 AIO? Was also looking at a couple air coolers that work in 3 slot mode (Black Ridge + AXP-90)

Also how much of a thermal difference would I see you think moving to a 120 AIO? 5-10C?
For my builds, I saw about a 5-15c reduction in temps going from a 120 (Corsair H60) to a 240 (Corsair H100i Pro XT) depending on the application. 5c for lighter loads (like gaming) 15c for heavy and long renders
 

m0lly

Chassis Packer
Nov 29, 2018
15
23
For my builds, I saw about a 5-15c reduction in temps going from a 120 (Corsair H60) to a 240 (Corsair H100i Pro XT) depending on the application. 5c for lighter loads (like gaming) 15c for heavy and long renders

Interesting. What GPU and model were in those builds?

Edit: Just saw your sig. Looks like a 2080 Super
 
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Wahaha360

a.k.a W360
Original poster
SFFLAB
NCASE
SSUPD
Feb 23, 2015
2,131
10,697
Deshrouding the TUF is an option I am considering but I'm leaning more towards the 120 AIO route since I'm still within the return period for the EK 240 AIO that is currently being used + I have spare A12x25 fans laying around from a previous NCase build.

How big of a difference would temps be between a custom loop 120 vs EK 120 AIO? Was also looking at a couple air coolers that work in 3 slot mode (Black Ridge + AXP-90)

Also how much of a thermal difference would I see you think moving to a 120 AIO? 5-10C?


Not all 120 loop / AIO are the same, performance difference can be substantial. The 120 Custom Loop I was referring to is the Koolance HX-CU420V.



I have done test with this radiator prior. It's within 4C of a custom loop to the Alpahcool LT240, which is better performer than EK 240 according to Techpowerup.

In your scenario, you are running *two slim fans, which reduces the EK 240 performance further, likely worse than a Noctua / Arctic 25mm thick fan on the Koolance 120 custom loop. From a system perspective, two 25mm thick fan is the way to go.

I think this should be the ideal setup in T1. Maybe I will put some numbers up when I get V1.2
 
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