Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.6%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 355 75.4%

  • Total voters
    471

Gerold

Cable-Tie Ninja
Mar 19, 2020
160
172
www.instagram.com
no offense, but as I said, this exact "hypothesis" was discussed a lot in this thread and also tested.
There is no meaningful difference in temps when you put in 2 fans as pull and one fan as push.
(at least for this case, with a slim rad and the fpi you get with these)
No one is stopping you from doing it though, so what's the point in asking the same question three times in a row?

If you are asking about 4 fans running, two on the bottom, two on the top, then no, and it's unnecessary.
There is no reason to push/pull on a SLIM radiator. And in general the 25mm Fans are more effective and silent!
My suggestion is to use 1 Slim + 1 25mm Fan, or 2 Slim Fans (Will be a bit louder and maybe 2 degrees warmer).
The push pull has effect with ticker radiators. This is a 27mm, probably the core will be something like 19/20mm, 16FPI. Even the F12 seems overkill to me! ?
 
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gwertheim

King of Cable Management
Nov 27, 2017
938
1,555
no offense, but as I said, this exact "hypothesis" was discussed a lot in this thread and also tested.
There is no meaningful difference in temps when you put in 2 fans as pull and one fan as push.
(at least for this case, with a slim rad and the fpi you get with these)
No one stopping you from doing it though, so what's the point in asking the same question three times in a row?

I agree, if your talking about 1 or 2 degrees, you are wasting your time and being picky about something which in the grand scheme of things doesn't really matter or can be within margin of error.

If you put two fans beside each other as one push and the other one pull, you are sending that air in a circle, it comes out of one fan and goes into another. You are just moving hot air around. That's why intake and exhaust are on the other side of the case and not beside each other.
 
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theexplainer

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Jul 30, 2018
90
187
This what I was asking about earlier. I spent last night looking for it in a "previous post" as I was told. I typed in "fan" and went through 10 pages of everything that mentioned the word fan. I didn't find anything. That was a waste of time. So you couldn't screw both 15mm fans in? I didn't fully understand you. It's like you used google translate.
I did not use google translate, but sorry, let me elaborate further - I wasn't able to screw the fans in because I didn't have screws that would fit. Simply because I forgot to order some (that's why I am still waiting for them to arrive, just ordered those yesterday). The only screws I had around were ment to mount 25mm fans, not 15mm fans ^^

Right now the 15mm fans are being hold in place just by being pressed against the radiator by the bottom panel of the case. (I guess I forgot to mention this before, fixed that now)

I do think if I had them screwed in like they are in the Photo, the screws would at least scratch at the top/bottom panel of the case (whichever it is for you), if the screws would fit there at all. There should be no issue screwing in one 15mm fan next to the 25mm fan on top of the radiator, right below the motherboard, though.
 
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Goatee

King of Cable Management
Jun 22, 2018
739
1,513
I did not use google translate, but sorry, let me elaborate further - I wasn't able to screw the fans in because I didn't have screws that would fit. Simply because I forgot to order some (that's why I am still waiting for them to arrive, just ordered those yesterday). The only screws I had around were ment to mount 25mm fans, not 15mm fans ^^

Right now the 15mm fans are being hold in place just by being pressed against the radiator by the bottom panel of the case. (I guess I forgot to mention this before, fixed that now)

I do think if I had them screwed in like they are in the Photo, the screws would at least scratch at the top/bottom panel of the case (whichever it is for you), if the screws would fit there at all. There should be no issue screwing in one 15mm fan next to the 25mm fan on top of the radiator, right below the motherboard, though.

If the thread is the full length of the screw then you can just cut it down by 10mm with a hacksaw.
 

BeachBoy

Case Bender
New User
May 12, 2020
2
5
I did not use google translate, but sorry, let me elaborate further - I wasn't able to screw the fans in because I didn't have screws that would fit. Simply because I forgot to order some (that's why I am still waiting for them to arrive, just ordered those yesterday). The only screws I had around were ment to mount 25mm fans, not 15mm fans ^^

Right now the 15mm fans are being hold in place just by being pressed against the radiator by the bottom panel of the case. (I guess I forgot to mention this before, fixed that now)

I do think if I had them screwed in like they are in the Photo, the screws would at least scratch at the top/bottom panel of the case (whichever it is for you), if the screws would fit there at all. There should be no issue screwing in one 15mm fan next to the 25mm fan on top of the radiator, right below the motherboard, though.

Now "theexplainer" nickname makes sense ;)
 

integer

Trash Compacter
Aug 29, 2019
34
5
@fabio has fit dual GPUs in the T1, physically fitting is not the issue; you can make it happen.

wow, incredible build. thank you

How do you connect two cards with that? You'll need a x8x8 bifurcation riser. Something like https://peine-braun.net/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=65_59

Nice. was thinking a bifcurcator would be needed Just need to make sure mobo supports 8x8 config. Leaning towards a 3900/3950x system with a vGPU or if cant get that working then regular GPU passthru. This is for homelab, vm's etc, but if I can get VDI working then may use as primary.
 

Tiddles

Cable Smoosher
Mar 24, 2020
10
25
The L12S is a dream when it comes to silence, but BR is no slouch either as long as you use Noctuas.
I'm pretty confident that the L12S or even the BR with two fans make less noise than the stock coolers.
When in "idle mode" you could even stop the fans with custom fan curves and make the system pretty much inaudible - (when browsing or other non demanding tasks).
Should make less noise than a pump running constantly (at least in regards to a 65W CPU).

I ended up going with the L12S and the noise reduction is AMAZING. Currently folding@home in quiet delight :)

Thanks for the advice!
 

Luke NK

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Nov 17, 2019
126
116
As I was expecting, NO IMPROVEMENT at all.

I've got exactly the same temp than without a fan on the 120rad. There is physically no space to let the fan intake air!

Have you tried setting all fans as exhaust? Both the fans from the 240 rad and the 120, maybe negative pressure works better with this setup.

It would probably also need to work in pull mode with the fan against the side panel
 

fabio

Shrink Ray Wielder
Apr 6, 2016
1,885
4,325
Have you tried setting all fans as exhaust? Both the fans from the 240 rad and the 120, maybe negative pressure works better with this setup.

It would probably also need to work in pull mode with the fan against the side panel
WIth the fittings I am using I cannot have the fan on the side panel unfortunately. But in that case intaking will be the best option, and the top fans exhausting.
 

Brude27

Master of Cramming
Jun 21, 2018
384
878
A botched paint job ate a day from me on this project, but here are some progress shots on my G12 mod:

Sandblasting - Check!


Paint job (take two) - Check!


T1 Reassembly - Check!


I'll grab some better glamour shots later, but this is all I could muster tonight. I'm beat!

The good new is the panels go on without any issue. I don't even think the tubing is touching, so this was a major success! Note the use of a slim 92mm fan on the G12 bracket, though. I don't think a normal fan would allow the side panels to close nicely.

I was going to make some custom cables for this, but I found out my crimping tool doesn't work with PC terminals. That discovery was a bit disappointing, as this would've been my first attempt at custom cables. Instead, I decided to finally use my J-HACK M2427, and it's an impressively simple device. I recommend if you struggle finding a place to tuck your 24 pin cable into that you should definitely check this thing out here.

See this post for why I edited the strike-through.

My next step is tweaking the fans, and enjoying the silence! I'll post results here once I get around to dialing everything in! So far the H55 is dead quiet, which is a pleasant surprise from the H60.
 
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Truth

Formerly TutorialIsland
Mar 19, 2020
90
46
Due to the noted potential 27-28.6mm thickness on the 240-d rgb, I managed to find ONE us seller of the Aeolus ß 12013 RGB and went ahead and bought two of them, this should allow me to fit it with NO bending and without using a full size fan since I'll need the extra room.
 

Speedster

Average Stuffer
Apr 7, 2020
56
111
Due to the noted potential 27-28.6mm thickness on the 240-d rgb, I managed to find ONE us seller of the Aeolus ß 12013 RGB and went ahead and bought two of them, this should allow me to fit it with NO bending and without using a full size fan since I'll need the extra room.
Those fans have SP of 0.67 mmH2O, not sure you're going to get much air through the rad. For comparison, Noctua A12x15 is 1.53 and the F12 2.61
 
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Truth

Formerly TutorialIsland
Mar 19, 2020
90
46
Those fans have SP of 0.67 mmH2O, not sure you're going to get much air through the rad. For comparison, Noctua A12x15 is 1.53 and the F12 2.61
What about the SY1212SL12H?, not to go too far off topic, but I'm not familiar w/ 'mmH2O' and given the pertinence of your message I decided to start looking elsewhere for potential alternative slim fans sub 15mm.