Time for a little update
Part 4: The first cut is the deepest...
That's not only a beautiful song by Yusuf Islam (TAFKACS: The Artist Formerly Known As Cat Stevens), but also the repeating theme of my first case-cutting adventure. The first cutout I tackled was the one for the C6 inlet. At first I used a cutting disc, but they are a lot larger then the needed cutout, so the first cut I did went too deep. But luckily it wasn't too bad, it will be hidden by the inlets mounting frame. As the inlet consists of 3 overlapping circles, I then figured it might be done with a drill bit for the Dremel. But I came to deeply regret not following a friendly advice to get myself a vice for the metal works. Holding the case with one hand, the drill slipped when it touched the edge of the hole and the second "cut" went right into my hand. Lucky a second time, the hole I drilled into my hand missed any blood vessels, tendons or bones, so it will just be a nice little souvenir.
After giving it two or three days to heal and think about my clumsiness, I managed to get the job done with the help of a clamp to fixate the case while working on it. The result looks ok when the inlet is mounted. Next task was the cutout for the tiny switch. By the way, this switch which I took from the C14 inlet with integrated switch, is the smallest one I could find, even on AliExpress. Its outer dimensions are 21mmx15mm, cutout will be about 19mmx13mm, so not a big margin of error allowed, not more than 1mm to spare on each side before the switch is doomed to fall into the case.
It turned out that the rectangular cutout was a little bit easier and all went well, I managed to make only one hole in the case and none in myself. A little filing, sanding and spray painting the case made it look like new
After that I started getting all the cables ready with proper length, connectors and shrink tubing: LEDs, power button and the cables for the inlet and switch.
the future: integrated screen
During recovery I had some time to think about the screen mounting options. I ordered an aluminium frame which would make the case higher when mounting it on top, but on the other hand it could be mounted with hinges. Another option might be just mounting the monitor on some aluminium bars running across the case, but then it could not be lifted up.
I also tried to find some thin hinges, but I wasn't too successful. Looking for lifting hinges as suggested by BaK, but they all were too thick and couldn't fit inside the case. After hours and hours of googling and searching I found only two viable options so far:
1)
PVC hinges:
These are quite reasonably priced, about 24 Euros (or 28 USD) including delivery for a pack of 4. At a length of 38mm this would be enough to cover most of the front. The thickness is specified as 2mm, I guess that means 4mm when folded (as they need to be). So I would definitely have to hide those hinges behind some sort of cover running around the edges.
2)
Kevlar hinges:
These are just 0.8mm thick, which might just be ok if used without a cover to hide them. They come in a length of 50mm or 100mm and are quite expensive. Ordering 2x 100mm to cover the complete length of the case will cost 110 Euros (about 130 USD) and even using only 2x 50mm hinges (e.g. on both edges of the case) will cost 84 Euros (about 100 USD), which would make the hinges the second most expensive component of this build, right after the CPU...
I ordered the PVC hinges to see how far they will get me, but I just can't get those beautiful kevlar hinges out of my head
To close the case on top, I will probably order an aluminium panel with a cutout for the screen, holes in the corners for mounting and ventilation holes. But before getting the necessary measurements, I will need to come to a decision on wheter to use the frame or not...
Next steps:
case modification for inlet and switch: done
wait for a replacement case to arrive because I ruined the case in step 1 : surprisingly enough this wasn't necessary
preparing all the necessary cables in the correct length (and waiting for connectors to arrive): done, except for the the PDCB input cable
- testing PSU and PDCB with the PSU tester
- if all goes well, hooking it all up: PSU, LEDs, power switch, PDCB and modified USB3 ports
- testing the computer for performance, thermals and airflow
lots of thinking, googling and learning to tackle the monitor case lid...: halfway done, I hope