Log [12V] B01T3 ...a 3L Brickless APU Build...

jakejm79

Average Stuffer
Mar 22, 2021
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Yep, either that, enlarging the stock vents to a max or ... redesigning the whole case from scratch! I have indeed some ideas to improve it all around! ;)

On my A02 with the same vent pattern I just filled the holes and then drilled an 80mm opening (with a large hole saw) for use with some fan vents on the side and then added some custom mesh to the top that I cut out.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
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May 17, 2016
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But a modded top sounds great. I want one where I can intregrate my touchscreen (flush with the surface, of course) and a hinge mechanism so it can be propped up in a 30-60 degree angle - all while still leaving lots of space for ventilation 😁
Wow having the screen on an hinge sounds like a terrific idea!
In addition to having the screen at your desirable viewing angle like a laptop one, that will almost leave you with an open case easy to cool down! 🤩
Maybe adding a top mesh under the screen for good measure to prevent touching the inner components and that's it!
Well, now you need to figure out how to set up that hinge... maybe by finding one that can be attached to a side of the case or replace it?

and then added some custom mesh to the top that I cut out.
Very well done! 👏
How did you manage to incorporate / melt the mesh into the top like that?
 

infoberg

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Mar 23, 2021
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Wow having the screen on an hinge sounds like a terrific idea!
In addition to having the screen at your desirable viewing angle like a laptop one, that will almost leave you with an open case easy to cool down! 🤩
Maybe adding a top mesh under the screen for good measure to prevent touching the inner components and that's it!
Well, now you need to figure out how to set up that hinge... maybe by finding one that can be attached to a side of the case or replace it?

I think it would be best to completely replace the top and create a new one. The 4 mounting holes for the top together with the part where they are located (front and back) would make an ideal place for mounting the new top with a hinge. But I am afraid I have neither the skills nor the tools to either draw or construct such a piece...
 

jakejm79

Average Stuffer
Mar 22, 2021
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Wow having the screen on an hinge sounds like a terrific idea!
In addition to having the screen at your desirable viewing angle like a laptop one, that will almost leave you with an open case easy to cool down! 🤩
Maybe adding a top mesh under the screen for good measure to prevent touching the inner components and that's it!
Well, now you need to figure out how to set up that hinge... maybe by finding one that can be attached to a side of the case or replace it?


Very well done! 👏
How did you manage to incorporate / melt the mesh into the top like that?
I cut the hole and the mesh to match. I then tape off on the interior about 5mm in from the edge of the mesh to give a nice straight line. I then placed it all on on a flat surface and used JB weld to secure everything in place. It was then sanded flat and the tape removed, leaving the clean line. So basically the outer row (or partial row) of holes on each side of the mesh are filled in with JB weld that secures it to the case, when sanded flat and painted its not a bad finish.
As you can see in the pics there is one side that isn't perfect, the surface I had everything on wasn't perfectly flat so the mesh sits a little proud of the case on that edge.
 
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BaK

King of Cable Management
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May 17, 2016
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I cut the hole and the mesh to match. I then tape off on the interior about 5mm in from the edge of the mesh to give a nice straight line. I then placed it all on on a flat surface and used JB weld to secure everything in place. It was then sanded flat and the tape removed, leaving the clean line. So basically the outer row (or partial row) of holes on each side of the mesh are filled in with JB weld that secures it to the case, when sanded flat and painted its not a bad finish.
As you can see in the pics there is one side that isn't perfect, the surface I had everything on wasn't perfectly flat so the mesh sits a little proud of the case on that edge.
Thanks for the detailed information!
I never tried JB weld yet, it's epoxy from what I see.
It gives a nice finish indeed and the mesh looks to be attached firmly to the top!
 

jakejm79

Average Stuffer
Mar 22, 2021
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Thanks for the detailed information!
I never tried JB weld yet, it's epoxy from what I see.
It gives a nice finish indeed and the mesh looks to be attached firmly to the top!
Yep its effectively an epoxy with more metal (than plastic) like attributes, making it more suitable for sanding/machining after its sets.
 
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oifrcz

Cable Smoosher
Jul 15, 2021
8
2
Thanks for watching!
Great stuff! This is a really neat build you've made. I find it very inspiring!

PSU heat transfer to the case, thermal pad with a thickness of 1.5mm has been added:
The LSP-160 PSU is ok till +70°C, that lets me a margin of 20°C.
Can you give some feedback how the passive cooling of the PSU does perform? Was this with the case's front panel acting as heatsink?
One instant idea I had was to add the thermal pad also between the case's black metal part and the front panel. Maybe also to consider: using thermal paste instead of pads, and some kind of fastener pushing the PSU onto the metal parts.
I had a 1m sample of this black/silver sleeving laying around, it was a good opportunity to use it!
This sleeved cables make such a difference. Sure I'll be using for my own build.
 
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BaK

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I think it would be best to completely replace the top and create a new one. The 4 mounting holes for the top together with the part where they are located (front and back) would make an ideal place for mounting the new top with a hinge. But I am afraid I have neither the skills nor the tools to either draw or construct such a piece...
I've been thinking about having the top side on a hinge, have replied back in your own thread!


Great stuff! This is a really neat build you've made. I find it very inspiring!

This sleeved cables make such a difference. Sure I'll be using for my own build.
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate!


Can you give some feedback how the passive cooling of the PSU does perform? Was this with the case's front panel acting as heatsink?
One instant idea I had was to add the thermal pad also between the case's black metal part and the front panel. Maybe also to consider: using thermal paste instead of pads, and some kind of fastener pushing the PSU onto the metal parts.
With the latest setup, two exhaust fans along with the Z39 cooler, plus the RAM without heatsink that permits some airflow to reach the PSU, the latter heats up to around 50°C during stress tests.
The front side of the case is a few degrees cooler, around 47°C if I remember well.
So adding a thermal compound would probably help a little, but the contact between the case itself and the front side seems to be already good.
It is such a tight fit to put the motherboard in, that the latter is actually pushing the PSU onto the casing. That's for the lower part of the PSU, and I still have in mind to attach fasteners to the sides of the case for securing/pushing the top of the PSU as well. But that's not a priority as it holds so much well in place and there is good heat transfer already.
 
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BaK

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May 17, 2016
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A little update...
After some readings on the topic plus some videos, I thought it was fine to let my two M.2s naked without a heatsink.
My assumption was that their controllers are not going to get that hot and the NANDs like to get warm to function properly.
Focused on the global cooling of the system, I just had an eye on the storage temperatures while running OCCT. Nothing alarming as the drives where not active during such test.
That's only when @tinyitx mentionned the Samsung Magician software in his Noctua NH-P1 thread that I recall not having monitored the M.2 temps closely yet!

So I launched the performance benchmark of SM and got HIT in the face! 😱
The 970 EVO Plus controller reached 92°C, and the 970 EVO controller went up to a frightening 97°C so I had to stop the benchmark manually!!! Isn't it supposed to throttle and cool down at some point? o_O

Well so I quickly fetched the M.2 heatsink provided with the Gigabyte motherboard, I just took care to remove the part of the thermal pad going on the EVO plus NANDs:


For the EVO, it was a bit trickier to add an heatsink to it on the PCIE to M.2 adapter. So I ended up dividing in two an old chipset heatsink I had laying around and attaching it with some rubber bands. But even with the thermal pad, the heatsink always wanted to slide towards the NANDs location, thus the pink rubber band. I will replace it later with a black one before my daughter realizes one of hers is missing!
Btw if you guys have another more elegant idea to attach the heatsink, I am all ears!


And here they are inside the case:

It seems that the setups greatly differ regarding the ability to cool either CPU or Chipset, the difference in RAM temps is rather small. It looks to me that 2x exhaust would be the best compromise...
+1 for 2x exhaust
Knowing the exhaust configuration was giving lower temps on the chipset, the latter being right under the EVO Plus, I switch the two fans for exhaust. Thanks guys for your input!

And now for the new results with the SM benchmark:
- The EVO plus controller hit a max of 64°C (NAND T° max 59°C)
- The EVO controller didn't get past 58°C (NAND T° max 54°C)

I don't know whether the EVO plus is getting warmer by default, because of the chipset under it or if my self-made heatsink is more efficient than the Aorus one...
But anyway, more than 30°C improvement, not bad! :cool:
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
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May 17, 2016
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Why I cannot open the imgur photos?
It also happens to me, a new tab opens with the imgur URL but the page is blank.

Did you try right clic / copy link and paste it in another browser?

At home I have to paste the link into Chromium because the issue is with Firefox.
But at work it's the opposite, go figure...
 
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tinyitx

Shrink Way Wielder
Jan 25, 2018
2,044
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And now for the new results with the SM benchmark:
- The EVO plus controller hit a max of 64°C (NAND T° max 59°C)
- The EVO controller didn't get past 58°C (NAND T° max 54°C)

I don't know whether the EVO plus is getting warmer by default, because of the chipset under it or if my self-made heatsink is more efficient than the Aorus one...
But anyway, more than 30°C improvement, not bad! :cool:
Good job in reducing the temp!
 

tinyitx

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Jan 25, 2018
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Why I cannot open the imgur photos?
If you click the pic and a blank page comes up, look at the link address shown in your browser. If the imgur pic address has a bunch of numbers/letters after a #, delete those and the #. Then, the pic will show up.
This has been happening to me with the Firefox for many months now. Have not figured out why.
 
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inwave

Chassis Packer
Aug 3, 2021
14
2
It also happens to me, a new tab opens with the imgur URL but the page is blank.

Did you try right clic / copy link and paste it in another browser?

At home I have to paste the link into Chromium because the issue is with Firefox.
But at work it's the opposite, go figure...
hah, it really works!
 

inwave

Chassis Packer
Aug 3, 2021
14
2
I have also placed an order on this chassis, and I am looking for an AC-DC module with standby voltage (e.g. 5VSB) output and PS_ON signal input. I am figuring out how to use the direct-plug DC-ATX to control the AC-DC.
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
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May 17, 2016
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Good job in reducing the temp!
Thanks, I wouldn't have imagine a little piece of aluminium could have so much effect!

If you click the pic and a blank page comes up, look at the link address shown in your browser. If the imgur pic address has a bunch of numbers/letters after a #, delete those and the #. Then, the pic will show up.
This has been happening to me with the Firefox for many months now. Have not figured out why.
It works, nice trick!

I have also placed an order on this chassis, and I am looking for an AC-DC module with standby voltage (e.g. 5VSB) output and PS_ON signal input. I am figuring out how to use the direct-plug DC-ATX to control the AC-DC.
The bigger Meanwell PSUs have these functions, which are useful when also powering a GPU in order to turn it off.
I don't think you need them for an APU build, mine is running fine without them.
Keep us informed of your choice!
 

Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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If you click the pic and a blank page comes up, look at the link address shown in your browser. If the imgur pic address has a bunch of numbers/letters after a #, delete those and the #. Then, the pic will show up.
This has been happening to me with the Firefox for many months now. Have not figured out why.
Hey, thanks for that, I've been having this issue for ages. (Some times refreshing the page a bunch of times has worked, but often not at all. This worked on the first try!)
 

infoberg

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Mar 23, 2021
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For the EVO, it was a bit trickier to add an heatsink to it on the PCIE to M.2 adapter. So I ended up dividing in two an old chipset heatsink I had laying around and attaching it with some rubber bands. But even with the thermal pad, the heatsink always wanted to slide towards the NANDs location, thus the pink rubber band. I will replace it later with a black one before my daughter realizes one of hers is missing!
Btw if you guys have another more elegant idea to attach the heatsink, I am all ears!
...
I don't know whether the EVO plus is getting warmer by default, because of the chipset under it or if my self-made heatsink is more efficient than the Aorus one...
But anyway, more than 30°C improvement, not bad! :cool:
Really great job cooling the M.2s down so much. Maybe cable ties would work better in keeping the heatsink in place?
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
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May 17, 2016
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Maybe cable ties would work better in keeping the heatsink in place?
I fear cable ties will be more prone to push the heatsink toward the middle of the drive, thus making it touch one of the NAND.
But I will definitely have to try something out as two of the rubber bands already broke!
 

Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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I fear cable ties will be more prone to push the heatsink toward the middle of the drive, thus making it touch one of the NAND.
But I will definitely have to try something out as two of the rubber bands already broke!
You could always put something insulating in between the heatsink and NAND. Even a couple layers of paper might be enough to avoid them getting noticeably warmed up.
 
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