Yeah I had something like that in mind, will try with some foam sticked to the heatsink.
I redid the Samsung magician's benchmark, and got a max temp of 71°C for the Evo controller (59°C for the NAND).
No CNC finally, just my trusty Dremel and electrical sander!I will see later if I can get a CNC to make the bracket out of steel.
Wow, that's an awesome piece of labour, looks so perfect. Did you spray paint it?
Thanks!
, was fun!Just 3-4 layers of a black spray paint intended for cars after some light sanding.Looks powder coated, but of course I may be wrong.
Centering holes from a tracing is really hard though. Maybe worth investing in a set of self-centering drill bits, and using the original parts as a guide instead? I've never seen those in metric sizes though, which is weird.Thanks!
Perfect until you look aŧ it closely!
I'm especially not so happy with the holes positions, I should invest in a better drill press!
But yep more time work on that piece of steel compared to aluminium, even at a thickness of 0.75mm only! The Dremel made a lot of sparks
I played it safe with such a thin plate to maximize the gap between the fan and the CPU cooler.
I'm always impressed at how good hand made parts can look with some care and finishing. This is no exception.Just 3-4 layers of a black spray paint intended for cars after some light sanding.
Indeed, I always try to check from every angles that the drill bit is centered but it's rarely the case in the end.
Thanks for letting me know these exist!
Yeah, I just found out about those drill bits recently (from one of Adam Savage's videos, I think?). They seem absolutely brilliant for what they do, and I would imagine them being extremely useful for custom case building, whether it's for screws, standoffs, rivets, or something else - I've always been terrified of trying to align holes in two sheets of metal, for example, and these should fix that easily. I also think the drill bits themselves are removable from the spring-loaded sleeve/holder thing, so for metric sizes it might be feasible to just swap them out with off-the-shelf drill bits (as long as they aren't too thick or too long/short). Of course these bits don't necessarily align with all hole sizes (higher quality versions with tapered ends are more flexible though), and I've seen some that are really low quality (i.e. where the bit isn't actually centered in the sleeve, rendering them useless). YMMV, as always.
for the rookie here who hasnt used a dremel, what cutting bit do you use for cutting metal? i bought a 12v milwalkee tool that is a similar machine, but dont know what im really doing.Thanks!
Perfect until you look aŧ it closely!
I'm especially not so happy with the holes positions, I should invest in a better drill press!
But yep more time work on that piece of steel compared to aluminium, even at a thickness of 0.75mm only! The Dremel made a lot of sparks
I played it safe with such a thin plate to maximize the gap between the fan and the CPU cooler.
Just 3-4 layers of a black spray paint intended for cars after some light sanding.
Good cutting wheels for metal are a must. You get those rust-brown cutting wheels that supposedly cut metal - and they do, but they disintegrate after a few seconds of use. You need something fiberglass reinforced or similar. I bought a set of Dremel's original cutting discs with their quick-release mandrel, which was more than worth it - they cut well, and replacing wheels was so much easier than with anything screw-mounted. The most important part is getting some type of reinforced wheels though.
Confirmed!
