Screws on the front will take away the clean feel.
Can you use one of flush-with-surface nuts embedded into the front panel? Where the power supply screw can go into?
The flush nuts can be covered when the surface is painted.
There's another way to hide front screws- have blind holes drilled into them, so the threads don't go through the other side. This works if you use a thicker front bezel, like at least 5mm.
BTW is that front acrylic on the case custom? It makes the case look more slick.
Cool idea, neat looking case.
Is this intended to work with an HDPLEX 160W out the box? You'll need a pretty big cut out for its included c14 connector. Does that fit in ok? I can't see a cutout for a power inlet on your most recent images
Like your clean style. Expert to see the next renderings with IO USB and Audio.
Greetings from Germany
Bert
I decided to use the double sideded tape. No screws.
My 2c:
I've read about double sided tape used in many builds to secure things like HDD/SSD. Most of them are secure. In fact, my google-fu did not return anything when I search for double sided tape failures in PC builds.
But if possible, try to use screws.
My arguments:
1. The heat might have detrimental effect on the tape.
2. People will probably carry this thing around. Or, if you put VESA holes, some might also hang it behind their monitor. Screws should withstand movement & shock better. You don't want the PSU to suddenly detach.
3. The stronger it sticks, the harder it is to remove. (Say the PSU fails and you need to RMA it)
Perhaps other forum members who know better can chime in as well
My modem and my power strip are held to the bottom of my desk with double sided if that helpsMy 2c:
I've read about double sided tape used in many builds to secure things like HDD/SSD. Most of them are secure. In fact, my google-fu did not return anything when I search for double sided tape failures in PC builds.
But if possible, try to use screws.
My arguments:
1. The heat might have detrimental effect on the tape.
2. People will probably carry this thing around. Or, if you put VESA holes, some might also hang it behind their monitor. Screws should withstand movement & shock better. You don't want the PSU to suddenly detach.
3. The stronger it sticks, the harder it is to remove. (Say the PSU fails and you need to RMA it)
Perhaps other forum members who know better can chime in as well
I'm not sure about majority of other guy's reasons to go SFF but one of my main goals is to be able to throw it in my carry on and take it over flights when needed. Double sided tape isn't really much reliable/strong in such cases. I'd rather pay the $10-20 for secure screw mounts rather than ghetto solutions tbf.
Of course, its your design so this is just my input.
I recommend you also buy an MX500 to take a look at. It is very similar to yours but missing a few features to make it HDPLEX friendly.
Here is my build of it. I would take a look at how it is put together so you can get a feel of what a completed metal work body should look like. It has pretty good fit/finish in my opinion.
I believe 160W should be enough for iGPU platform, so... why not? In fact, IIRC, a lot of brickless builds in S4 uses 160W PSUs to support 65 watt chip (most are undervolted tho) + GTX1050Ti. (others, please correct me if I'm wrong)
Not sure what the modular front panel looks like? A simple rendering would be nice.
Ah.. cutting CPU cooler clearance is unfortunate.. Ryzen is hot & not really easy to tame. I mean, obviously you can use NH-L9i, but at the expense of noise & reliance on ambient temp. Not everyone works in aircon-ed room
Any specific reason why you want to reduce this CPU cooler clearance even further?