Stalled 3.5L HTPC Case- Made for Ryzen!

Feingeist

Chassis Packer
Mar 4, 2018
15
13
Like your clean style. Expert to see the next renderings with IO USB and Audio.
Greetings from Germany
Bert
 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
SFFn Staff
Nov 14, 2017
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Screws on the front will take away the clean feel.

Can you use one of flush-with-surface nuts embedded into the front panel? Where the power supply screw can go into?

The flush nuts can be covered when the surface is painted.

I decided to use the double sideded tape. No screws.

There's another way to hide front screws- have blind holes drilled into them, so the threads don't go through the other side. This works if you use a thicker front bezel, like at least 5mm.

BTW is that front acrylic on the case custom? It makes the case look more slick.

Nope- stock.

Cool idea, neat looking case.
Is this intended to work with an HDPLEX 160W out the box? You'll need a pretty big cut out for its included c14 connector. Does that fit in ok? I can't see a cutout for a power inlet on your most recent images

I designed it to fit an HDplex 300w, and the 160 is smaller. It will fit.I havent yet worked out the connector.

Like your clean style. Expert to see the next renderings with IO USB and Audio.
Greetings from Germany
Bert

Thanks for your interest!
 

ignsvn

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I decided to use the double sideded tape. No screws.

My 2c:

I've read about double sided tape used in many builds to secure things like HDD/SSD. Most of them are secure. In fact, my google-fu did not return anything when I search for double sided tape failures in PC builds.

But if possible, try to use screws.

My arguments:
1. The heat might have detrimental effect on the tape.
2. People will probably carry this thing around. Or, if you put VESA holes, some might also hang it behind their monitor. Screws should withstand movement & shock better. You don't want the PSU to suddenly detach.
3. The stronger it sticks, the harder it is to remove. (Say the PSU fails and you need to RMA it)

Perhaps other forum members who know better can chime in as well :)
 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Nov 14, 2017
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My 2c:

I've read about double sided tape used in many builds to secure things like HDD/SSD. Most of them are secure. In fact, my google-fu did not return anything when I search for double sided tape failures in PC builds.

But if possible, try to use screws.

My arguments:
1. The heat might have detrimental effect on the tape.
2. People will probably carry this thing around. Or, if you put VESA holes, some might also hang it behind their monitor. Screws should withstand movement & shock better. You don't want the PSU to suddenly detach.
3. The stronger it sticks, the harder it is to remove. (Say the PSU fails and you need to RMA it)

Perhaps other forum members who know better can chime in as well :)

Because of the size restraints, i'm not going to use screws. plus, It cuts costs. The 3M pads are rated for 200 LBs at a 150 degree farenheit. That's going to hold tight. I could make a vesa bracket. I'll consider it.
 

Rebel640

Caliper Novice
Mar 29, 2018
22
14
I'm not sure about majority of other guy's reasons to go SFF but one of my main goals is to be able to throw it in my carry on and take it over flights when needed. Double sided tape isn't really much reliable/strong in such cases. I'd rather pay the $10-20 for secure screw mounts rather than ghetto solutions tbf.

Of course, its your design so this is just my input.
 

W1NN1NG

King of Cable Management
Jan 19, 2017
616
532
My 2c:

I've read about double sided tape used in many builds to secure things like HDD/SSD. Most of them are secure. In fact, my google-fu did not return anything when I search for double sided tape failures in PC builds.

But if possible, try to use screws.

My arguments:
1. The heat might have detrimental effect on the tape.
2. People will probably carry this thing around. Or, if you put VESA holes, some might also hang it behind their monitor. Screws should withstand movement & shock better. You don't want the PSU to suddenly detach.
3. The stronger it sticks, the harder it is to remove. (Say the PSU fails and you need to RMA it)

Perhaps other forum members who know better can chime in as well :)
My modem and my power strip are held to the bottom of my desk with double sided if that helps
 
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Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
Original poster
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Nov 14, 2017
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I'm not sure about majority of other guy's reasons to go SFF but one of my main goals is to be able to throw it in my carry on and take it over flights when needed. Double sided tape isn't really much reliable/strong in such cases. I'd rather pay the $10-20 for secure screw mounts rather than ghetto solutions tbf.

Of course, its your design so this is just my input.

I think that for production, I'm going with tape. But if I extended the front then you could mount it. I think that being scared of the tape is unreasonable. I could do you a custom one, maybe.
 
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Thehack

Spatial Philosopher
Creator
Mar 6, 2016
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I recommend you also buy an MX500 to take a look at. It is very similar to yours but missing a few features to make it HDPLEX friendly.

Here is my build of it. I would take a look at how it is put together so you can get a feel of what a completed metal work body should look like. It has pretty good fit/finish in my opinion.
 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Nov 14, 2017
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I recommend you also buy an MX500 to take a look at. It is very similar to yours but missing a few features to make it HDPLEX friendly.

Here is my build of it. I would take a look at how it is put together so you can get a feel of what a completed metal work body should look like. It has pretty good fit/finish in my opinion.

Alright, thanks,
 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Nov 14, 2017
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Okay- few questions before I do the next CAD model-

Is it okay if I make so It cannot fit the hdplex 300w and ONLY the 160?
A modular front panel, with or without IO- is that okay?
Cutting CPU cooler clearance- this would force you to use a noctua l9.

Once i get some answers as to these questions, I'll draw the next model.
 

ignsvn

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I believe 160W should be enough for iGPU platform, so... why not? In fact, IIRC, a lot of brickless builds in S4 uses 160W PSUs to support 65 watt chip (most are undervolted tho) + GTX1050Ti. (others, please correct me if I'm wrong)

Not sure what the modular front panel looks like? A simple rendering would be nice.

Ah.. cutting CPU cooler clearance is unfortunate.. Ryzen is hot & not really easy to tame. I mean, obviously you can use NH-L9i, but at the expense of noise & reliance on ambient temp. Not everyone works in aircon-ed room :)

Any specific reason why you want to reduce this CPU cooler clearance even further?
 

Windfall

Shrink Ray Wielder
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Nov 14, 2017
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I believe 160W should be enough for iGPU platform, so... why not? In fact, IIRC, a lot of brickless builds in S4 uses 160W PSUs to support 65 watt chip (most are undervolted tho) + GTX1050Ti. (others, please correct me if I'm wrong)

Not sure what the modular front panel looks like? A simple rendering would be nice.

Ah.. cutting CPU cooler clearance is unfortunate.. Ryzen is hot & not really easy to tame. I mean, obviously you can use NH-L9i, but at the expense of noise & reliance on ambient temp. Not everyone works in aircon-ed room :)

Any specific reason why you want to reduce this CPU cooler clearance even further?

If I cant cut CPU cooler size, then there is no point in cutting out the 300w PSU. The only difference between 160 and 300 is width.
 

Jello

Airflow Optimizer
Nov 15, 2016
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Cutting cpu cooler clearance is not the biggest issue, I think having some sort of intake or exhaust fan could be very beneficial. I have no proof to back up my claim though.
 

ignsvn

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Errr.. then shouldn't you just keep extra room for CPU cooler, while, at the same time, gives people freedom whether to use 160W or 300W AC-DC?

Like what Jello said, having intake (or exhaust) fan is beneficial, especially to help cool the HDPLEX units. But they also go hand-in-hand with the CPU cooler (since, in this situation, the CPU is the single, highest source of heat).

I'd say give room for, say, 50mm CPU cooler, and then people can decide whether to utilize all those for CPU cooler alone, or use something low profile like NH-L9i + install giant fan on the top side of the case, say 140mm slim fan.
 

ebc92

Average Stuffer
Mar 4, 2018
73
71
As this is an APU case, I think the case at a minimum should support the Wraith Stealth cooler that comes with the 2200/2400G.
This will help keep cost down when adopting your case and will likely attract more users the way I see it. This also implies support for other cooling configurations, which is a big pro. It already requires an investment in a picoPSU, so you might not want to force the user into investing in an aftermarket cooler also. I'm guessing this implies support for HDPlex 300W support as well, but I'm not 100% sure on this.

With a case this small, I think a front I/O-less design is favorable because
  • you have very easy access to the rear anyway
  • it reduces a lot of cable clutter inside the case (this is a big pro)
  • keeps production cost down
  • it looks really good.

I'd also be interested in seeing this case in a mini-tower form factor, something akin to Lazer3D's HT5 only downscaled. This would mean stretching the width of the case, putting the PSU below or above the mobo, instead of in front.

Using this configuration you also bring some flexibility to the case - like the previous posts state, fan support could be beneficial. Maybe this additional space could support either a dual SFF fan setup, or an internal power brick, depending on the users use case?

Edit: Just checked, if you designed the case with Wraith Stealth support, that does indeed also mean supporting the 300W AC-AC. This could possibly be replaced with 2x 40mm fans if the PSU was positioned below the motherboard.

Are you planning on actually going to production with this case?
 
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