Prototype RAW V3: ATX + 2x300W (AC-DC HDplex) + full size GFX in 8.0L

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
Hello everyone
I'm Simon and I have been interested in SFF PCs for some years now.
It started out with Unobtainable, then a SG09 mod that got replaced soon after with my own case designs.
At the time there wasn't any real SFF cases so I looked into the option of using a laser cutter and assembly the parts into a good case (RAW V1 + V2) (Wood V1 + V2). This makes the cases cheap, easy to model, fast production and possible to create in various materials. Most of my designs can be downloaded and is free to use :thumb:

This case have been in my head since November (2017) and follows the trends in my designs:
It will be laser cut in 2 or 3 mm aluminium and have a 3 mm acrylic front.
It will be held together via T-sections and Parvum modding cubes.
I have tried to make it as slim and small as possible since the idea is to wall mount it (can be oriented in any directions) yet easy to take off the wall and transport (it will get a stand as well).

And most important; it needs to take either mATX or ATX motherboards. The case could have been smaller as an ITX system, however plenty of great ITX cases is already available. To me the ITX boards are still limited in their possibilities and the biggest issue is the limited amount of quality boards with good cooling. And you just get more for the same price when going to mATX and even more stuff (and options) when going to ATX. And for AM4 this have been clear. There is no good high-end mATX out there and ITX is getting good boards much later than ATX (+7 months for Asus to release theirs).
Also, ITX does not support Threadripper yet :cool:

So after some time working with the parts I finally got them ready for assembly.
First a test fit with the Rog Apex X motherboard (~26,7 cm width).


The assembly of the case (rather simple :p):


With countersunk screws and T-sections to keep the case together (along with Parvum modding cubes):



At the back, four HDD screws is inserted which match that of the wall mounting plate.


This allows the case/system to be easily placed and removed from the wall (~7 mm from the wall), and orientate the case in any of the four directions. Thereby the case can be placed both at left and right side while still showing the hardware.

The Apex motherboard takes most of the space when installed.


The back allows for installation for two 2.5" drives, a external OD 7,4mm power brick connection and two C14 connectors (lower slot only possible with mATX or ITX).
The case could have been some 5 mm slimmer, but I wanted better cooling support for the CPU and the extra features that 5 mm added.

Since Dynatron doesn't make a vapor chamber 1U cooler for 115X, I spent some time figuring out how to get the Dynatron R15 cooler (socket 2011/2066) installed on the Apex board. In order to do so an 6,5 mm high installation bracket was milled in aluminium with M3 threads:



And it fits perfectly on the motherboard (it screws in from the back and rest on plastic washers. Waiting on the EKWB True backplate 115X for less motherboard stress). The 16 mm standoffs are there to prevent high installation forces with the stock springs (I will show a picture of this in next update).


Second problem for the R15 installation is the flat base of the cooler which doesn't fit with Intels keep out zone for 115X.
On the Apex the surrounding capacitors were ~1,0 mm to high for the cooler to have contact with the IHS (a single capasitor was 1,2 mm to high). One could solder on low capacitors, however I decided to go with a 1,5 mm high copper shim:

Did spend a few hours getting it as flat as possible and polish it up (right piece to show "before").
Instead of shim, one could delid and get a custom copper IHS made that is higher. This removes a thermal paste layer = likely better cooling.

By adding the extra 5 mm height; a few stand off screws, two simple aluminium "beams" and a custom backplate, the KMPKT can be installed at multiple "unused areas", allowing for even more power when using ATX or mATX:


The unit can be installed over the VRM heat sink (the back plate is ~36 mm above the motherboard) or above low profile RAMs (~33 mm high DDR4 dimms will work). With GFX of reference height (111,15 mm) there is also space between the CPU cooler and GFX. So you can have up to three 360W units in the case (doesn't make any sense with three but for power hungry system two makes perfect sense :thumb:).

The back plate for the KMPKT 360W also features cutout for a 40 mm fan if you need it for better VRM heat sink cooling.
A third beam can also be used to install fans above RAM or VRM heat sink.

The GFX is installed with a riser. Here I used a HDplex 21 cm semi black one:




The GFX fits well (needs to be the last piece installed) and it is steady in place thanks to the modding cube and the riser touching the case wall. To secure the GFX even more, beams will be made in 3 mm acrylic that will prevent the GFX from sacking towards the motherboard when used in a horizontal position. If traveling with the case, the GFX can be secured more firmly to these support beams by double sided tape or strips a the power connector.

Talking about power, the front side can be disassembled to install AC-DCs (I'm using a 300W and 160W):


Back into the case, slap on the cooler and the two KMPKT units and the system is beginning to take form:


Install the GFX and put up the wall mount on the side of my desk (the aluminium was way to reflective to be installed on the wall beside the window :(). And it boots :thumb:




I haven't made the 3.0 mm front acrylic yet and better looking cables and sleeving is on its way from MDPC-X :thumb:
Also two different RPM black Sunon 92 mm fans is on their way (should be silent with the MagLev bearing) to create a better looking system (Noctua, please make a black 92 mm fan!). If the R15 doesn't perform better than the LP-53, I'm tempted to go with a C7 Alu or a copper with graphene coat to complete the alu/black look :)
For my usage, the M.2 SSDs are plenty, however if needed the KMPKT Dynamo 360W could be placed between the CPU cooler and GFX so that two 2,5" drives can be installed above the VRM heat sink (making this system really compact).
However, I like the idea of less cables, so having no sata cables is great. Also using the Dynamo 160W removes the need for the bulky 24 pin cable. Overall there will be very few cables running in this system (and most of them hidden under the PCI-e riser).

Short test; the cooler keeps the I5 [email protected] with package temperature around 68 degrees C (~21 C ambient) with the NF-A9 at max RPM in Intel XTU Bench.
Will do more test and compare to the Cooltek LP-53 that arrives soon :p

Only problem so far is the power routing. During CPU and GFX benching the HDplex 160W unit (and front alu that acts as heat sink) got hot to the touch. The Dynamo 160W heat sink got really hot! Way to hot for touch. The HDplex 300W and Dynamo 360W on the other hand was cold o_O.

The power routing is:
160W AC-DC -> 160W DC-DC -> 8 pin EPS for CPU

300W AC-DC -> 360W DC-DC -> 8 pin for GFX

So the 160W units was powering the motherboard, DIMMs, SSD and fans (~40W) and the CPU (~90W), which is well under the 160W limit.
However, turns out that the reference GTX 1070 (which the Evga 1070 SC is (just with a aftermarket cooler)) pulls on average 65W from the PCI-e slot!
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1070-8gb-pascal-performance,4585-7.html

That meant the 160W units was supplying around 195W of power! No wonder the heat sink on the dynamo 160 got hot (also why I added the extra copper heat sinks).
It is a little strange behavior for the GTX 1070 considering that the reference 1080 only pulls ~45W from the PCI-e slot. And both of them have a 8 pin connector (and 1080 requires more power). The 1070 almost shares its input power need between the PCI-e slot and 8 pin even though the 8 pin can give plenty of more power o_O
So be aware of this, and in general the after market PCB cards with multiple 6 or 8 pins takes less power from the PCI-e slot (see the link above).

To fix this, a custom cable for the Dynamo 360 unit will be made so it can power the 8 pin EPS (CPU). So the 360W unit delivers ~ 110W for GFX (~140W with OC) and ~90W (~140W with OC and AVX) which is reasonable. These estimates are for benchmarks, gaming will of course be lower.
That means the 160W units will power the GFX via PCI-e slot ~65W (perhaps ~75W at OC) and all the rest for 40-50W. So well within their power limit.
The Dynamo 160W does get hot to the touch at idle over time due to the limited airflow. So I will likely add extra heat sinks and perhaps change the heat sink on the 360W unit to one with more surface are (I like my hardware cold :cool:).
If the Sunon Super Silent 40x10 mm fans are silent enough I will likely add a fan to cool the VRM/back side of Dynamo 360 (though the VRM heat sink on the Apex does a really good job), one for the M.2 SSDs (will also cool the Dynamo 160) and one on the HDplex 300W.

If more GFX (1080 Ti) or CPU (I9 or threadripper) power is needed, the HDplex 160W could be changed for a 300W unit and a extra Dynamo 360W could be installed (looking forward to that merger unit @Kmpkt . Will it be able to merge different watt units?).

Comments and questions is welcome :thumb:
Will soon be back with CPU temperature test (semi open bench situation (no acrylic front)) and hopefully a better looking setup (and better pictures).

The RAW 3.0 case design is beginning to take its final form. So, I wanted to present it to you in hope of some good constructive feedback :thumb:

In the first post I asked what you wanted to see in terms of size and motherboard support. And most looked for the bit smaller mATX version. So, I worked with that design and found out that with just a ~6% in volume the case would be easier to work in (power wise) and would be able to support ATX and even 27,2 cm EATX motherboards!

And more important for ITX fans is the added support for 120mm AIO or SFX-L (with a ITX board). For the mATX and ATX boards (and ITX with AIO) AC-DC bricks (such as HDplex 300W or 160W) and DC-DC PSU is used. In a few SketchUp images I will try and describe the possibilities of this design. But first the size:

Dimensions (external without small extrusions): 330 mm (w) x 325 mm (L) x 75 mm (H) = 8,0 L.

Material = 3,0 mm Aluminum and 3,0 mm acrylic (front panel)

GFX = 2 slots (other dimensions depend on PSU and motherboard choice). Riser is needed (HDplex in my prototype).

CPU cooler < 52 mm

The case could be smaller by working with thinner materials and different production method (bend 1 mm steel like other cases on here). Also, the 4 mm thick acrylic front does increase the size quite a bit (the case material is 1,0 L of the case volume!). However, for T-section connections 3 mm alu is optimal and it is sturdy for the wall hang option. And it acts as a large heatsink for the passive AC-DCs and DC-DC PSUs ;)

A short look on the outer design:





The GFX is facing the same way as the CPU cooler and the idea is for both of them to draw in fresh air through the acrylic front. With the hexagonal ventilation design, which I love and have used a few times before, there should be plenty of exhaust ventilation even for non-blower style GFXs. And considering dust, the point of the case is to be wall mounted = less dust. A stand will also be made for the case, likely in clear acrylic.

Below I will try to describe the options and features when using EATX, ATX, mATX or ITX:

With EATX the options are very limited and you likely need to use an external power brick unless you can do with just 300W from a HDplex 300W AC-DC PSU?

You will be able to have a Zotac 1080 ti mini in there, two 2,5” SSDs, a 300W AC-DC + HDplex 400W DC-DC for motherboard and an external PSU + KMPKTs 360W for the GFX. With only the 300W AC-DC + 400W DC-DC the GFX can be up to 28,5 cm long. At the side of the GFX there is room for 60x10 mm fan (few of such exits).


With ATX, brick less is possible with up to 460W of power. Still only two SSDs (7 mm thick) and only 10 mm thick exhaust fans. NOTE that most ATX motherboards have the PCI-e x16 slot in the second position which limits the GFX width to 112 mm (reference width). Room for the riser is neededXD. In the third image you can see the GFX support structure which also makes it possible to strip the card down in place (via the power connectors).





The above 460W (160W for CPU + Motherboard) and 300W for GFX is likely enough for most people. However, if more is needed, the 160W HDplex AD-DC can be replaced by an external PSU and a second KMPKT 360W can be added (stacked via some longer standoffs).



Now a few more options appear. The lower length of mATX means two more SSDs can be installed, or the C14 power in can be moved below the GFX for extra supported height up to 132 mm. Also, the 60 mm fans can now be up to 25 mm in thickness. And a custom top plate for the 300W AC-DC HDplex have been designed for 40 mm fan support :p




If you need more power for that I9, Threadripper or extreme GFX OC one can barely (< 1 mm clearance) install a extra KMPKT 360W instead of the fans (with some adhesive thermal pad) and change the 160W AC-DC to a 300W (so 600 AC-DC in total).


Or use a mini card (1080 ti mini possible) and keep the fans. The extra KMPKT 360W is installed with standoffs on a custom plate (as with EATX). Or a 400W DC-DC HDplex (tight fit with wires against front plate and the lower 60 mm fan should be removed).


Moving to ITX motherboards more options of course appear. Now it’s possible to install a 120mm AIO. 30 mm radiator and 25 mm fan is optimal as it leaves 10 mm for air intake or exhaust against the front plate. With a mini card (such as 1080 ti mini) it’s possible to have 2x 300W AC-DC HDplex, 2x KMPKT 360W and a 160W DC-DC for plenty of power to your system (OCed 1080 ti + OCed i7/i9).



Replacing one of the 300W AC-DC with an external brick would allow for longer GFXs (up to ~273 mm), both 60 mm fans.


If you can do with only 300W AC-DC, 1x KMPKT and 1x 160W DC-DC (24 pin) it allows for more SSDs to be installed below the GFX.


If you rather want to have an SFX (or SFX-L depending on GFX width/height) it can be placed were the AIO is. A small holder is installed and there is 26 mm room for the C14 power cord. With a SFX-L there is room for up to 6 2,5" drives below the GFX.



The SFX and AIO gets fresh air through the back of the case which isn’t supposed to be visible (wall mounted). Here you can also see all holes for motherboard, PSUs, SSDs and wall mount.

The wall mount consists of a single 3 mm alu plate which you attach to the wall (one or two screws) (or a VESA 100) with a few spacers (so the plate is ~2 mm from the wall). 4 HDD screws is screwed in at the back of the case which is the anchoring points.


The four screws are equally spaced apart meaning that the case can be orientated in any of the four directions = left or right sided case is supported :thumb::)
With this mount design the mount is not visible yet the case is close to the wall giving a sleek look and impression that the case is "floating". The mounting system also allows for quick dismounting for travels. And the thin design allows for the case to fit in medium/large backpacks.

There might be a difference in temperature in the case directions which I will test. This setup leaves 7 mm of room for intake/exhaust for the SFX or AIO which should be plenty.

So far, the case will be in all aluminum. The front is not clean with a few holes and countersunk screws for the AC-DC and modding cubes. This could be hidden behind a colored acrylic sheet if necessary.

Right now there is no clear cut out for a turn on switch. The hexagonal cuts are ~14 mm meaning 12 mm vandal switches could be installed with two spacer rings anywhere there is room. However, since the case is wall mounted I was looking at running the “on switch” wire to the back of the case so the switch could be installed at the table. Or just install this: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=714&area=en

I'm looking forward to test the thermals of the case. Hopefully Dan or KMPKT soon releases their coolers which will perform better than current CPU coolers (and perhaps enough for "quiet" I9 cooling). Or Cryorig releases their C7 in copper.
As mATX and ATX is supported, Threadripper can be installed. However, cooling it (or a I9) wont come silent :confused:
A cooler like the Dynatron A28 (SP3) is needed (currently the only TR4 cooler that can fit in the case) and a high RPM 92 or 80 mm fan might make it possible. For 25 mm thick fans the front panel needs to be milled a bit to allow for this 52 mm cooler combo height.

Questions and comments are welcome :-)
 
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RoLexus

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Jan 22, 2018
140
64
byanh.com
Your production way is same mine, but the way you hook the metal sheet look not nice, I found some way that that way will be more like industrial production, I will show you for your best case.
 

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
So a few have answered the poll and all of them in favour for the mATX.
Is there a deep hatred for ATX motherboards in here or...?
More votes are welcome, and your comments even more (why you want the mATX version).

Your production way is same mine, but the way you hook the metal sheet look not nice, I found some way that that way will be more like industrial production, I will show you for your best case.
I think the T-sections looks fine (subjective view). There won't be that many T-sections in this design as the modding cubes keeps most of the case together. Would have liked to use modding cubes all around, however they are to large for some positions :-\

You are more then welcome to share your way of connecting the sheets :-)

Awesome to see another RAW coming.

I was a big fan of previous ones!
Thanks, even though this does not spot water cooling (is possible with a ITX motherboard, but not designed for it), I think/hope it's going to be the best of the RAW cases ;-)
 
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RoLexus

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Jan 22, 2018
140
64
byanh.com
So a few have answered the poll and all of them in favour for the mATX.
Is there a deep hatred for ATX motherboards in here or...?
More votes are welcome, and your comments even more (why you want the mATX version).



I think the T-sections looks fine (subjective view). There won't be that many T-sections in this design as the modding cubes keeps most of the case together. Would have liked to use modding cubes all around, however they are to large for some positions :-\

You are more then welcome to share your way of connecting the sheets :-)



Thanks, even though this does not spot water cooling (is possible with a ITX motherboard, but not designed for it), I think/hope it's going to be the best of the RAW cases ;-)
Hi this is my sample solution:
You want to connect 6 plate +1 Mid plate like that:

Top can't be frame, front need clean (less holes) so we add top frame and front frame:

Top and front cover connect to top and front panel by less screws.
Fabricate top, mid, bottom plate like that:

Connect to side plate like that:

Install hook plate:

Fix back and front frame by screws:

Then install top and front cover.
For more detail contact me via Skype: nguyenvananh_2.
Hope this can help to make your best case.
 
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chingi5

Caliper Novice
Feb 15, 2017
33
12
May I ask you where you bought these modding cubes and for how much?
I have looked into Parvum cubes but they are very expensive for me and I couldn't find any alternatives unfortunately.
 

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
The mATX version seems to be the favor (12 votes - 10 for mATX).
No comments why?

Hi this is my sample solution:
You want to connect 6 plate +1 Mid plate like that:

Top can't be frame, front need clean (less holes) so we add top frame and front frame:

Top and front cover connect to top and front panel by less screws.
Fabricate top, mid, bottom plate like that:

Connect to side plate like that:

Install hook plate:

Fix back and front frame by screws:

Then install top and front cover.
For more detail contact me via Skype: nguyenvananh_2.
Hope this can help to make your best case.
It's a nice concept, however it's not really useful for my design (adds to much material to the sides (weight and volume)).
Also it still have taps and screws so not that different than T-sections.

May I ask you where you bought these modding cubes and for how much?
I have looked into Parvum cubes but they are very expensive for me and I couldn't find any alternatives unfortunately.
Bought them from Parvum some time ago when they were cheaper.
They are of really nice quality so would still buy them even though they have become expensive.
There are options out there for similar cubes such as:
https://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/S...Threaded-3xM3-12x12-mm::4467.html?language=en
https://www.ettinger.de/en/product/05.60.544
(Not sure it's really M4 and not a M3 thread)

Yet still expensive unless you buy large quantities.
 

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
A bit time of time have gone past and the RAW 3.0 design is beginning to look good and reaching cutting time.
#0 have been updated with sketchup "renders", check it out and leave a comment/feedback :thumb:
 

Marwan

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Feb 5, 2018
121
123
Looks raw XD,

I see a small water-cooling system in an image above, do you intend to specify possible configuration?
 

RoLexus

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Jan 22, 2018
140
64
byanh.com
My advice is you should upgrade to my LegoFab connection method for better looking and 100% no bending (seem you still bend VGA holder plate)
and Female AC cord is too big for small design.



 

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
Looks raw XD,

I see a small water-cooling system in an image above, do you intend to specify possible configuration?
That "real" image in #0 is from RAW v2 :)
This build (RAW v3) is not meant for water cooling other than 120mm AIO with a ITX board (see the spoiler drop downs for possible configurations).
However, you can always have external pump and radiator if full custom water cooling is wanted :thumb:

My advice is you should upgrade to my LegoFab connection method for better looking and 100% no bending (seem you still bend VGA holder plate)
and Female AC cord is too big for small design.
Again, for this case I don't see Legofab as a better or prettier option. It shows just as many tabs and screws.
And a layer more of material meaning lager volume which I don't want.
My GFX holder is not a bend part, so this case is also 100% without bends.
And I'm not sure want you mean about the female AC cord?
 
Last edited:

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
A bit of update:
To allow for more cooler/fan options I had to increase the height of the case by 3 mm and go to 3 mm acrylic.
This way there is room for 52 mm cooler height even with X299 CPUs that seems to be 8,5 mm heigh from motherboard.
Which is enough for dynatron R15 with a 25 mm fan ;-)
Or the Thermalright axp-100hr with a fan below.

The increased height also means easier power supply installation and a bit more breathing room for GFX.

That also means a 0,3 L volume increase :-(
 

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
A little teaser:


So the parts have been cut. Will see when I have the time to clean, file and tap it.

Also this is the motherboard that will go in my test system (Asus Maximus X Apex):


And this lovely Dynatron R15 + NF-A9 will cool the I5 8600k :-)
 
Last edited:

Sashby

Average Stuffer
Nov 13, 2017
68
88
@Fruergaard
Moving to ITX motherboards more options of course appear. Now it’s possible to install a 120mm AIO. 30 mm radiator and 25 mm fan is optimal as it leaves 10 mm for air intake or exhaust against the front plate. With a mini card (such as 1080 ti mini) it’s possible to have 2x 300W AC-DC HDplex, 2x KMPKT 360W and a 160W DC-DC for plenty of power to your system (OCed 1080 ti + OCed i7/i9).


I'm really interested in this. How is this accomplished? I haven't seen anyone else do this. KMPKT was working on a merging device for two Dynamo 360 to one AC-DC source but I haven't seen proof of anyone using dual HDPLEX 300W AC-DC to power both the MB and GPU. I'd totally be on board for this alone.
 

Duality92

Airflow Optimizer
Bronze Supporter
Apr 12, 2018
305
328
You'd just need to jump pin 3-4 from one unit to the other of the 24-pin cables and voila, two power supplies. Then plug both of those to 300+ bricks and you've got a 600W PSU. Although, I wonder how much a naked SFX Silverstone of similar wattage is in size.
 
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Kmpkt

Innovation through Miniaturization
KMPKT
Feb 1, 2016
3,380
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Just as a heads up the KMPKT merge should be available in the next couple months and will allow merging of 2 x 400W units if you want to go bigger :)
 

theGryphon

Airflow Optimizer
Jun 15, 2015
298
236
This is a cool project, but there is no point in eatx, atx or even matx without dual card support. Good work so far though!
One word: Threadripper

Though, the cooling alternatives will not be favorable for TR in this case...
 

Fruergaard

Trash Compacter
Original poster
Feb 13, 2018
37
48
I'm really interested in this. How is this accomplished? I haven't seen anyone else do this. KMPKT was working on a merging device for two Dynamo 360 to one AC-DC source but I haven't seen proof of anyone using dual HDPLEX 300W AC-DC to power both the MB and GPU. I'd totally be on board for this alone.
Not in the best way, the KMPKT merger will do it in a better way.
However one would simply split up power delievery into two groups:

1) 300W AC-DC -> Dynamo 360 -> Dynamo 160
Here you pass the DC line through the 360 unit to the 160 unit.
This can be used for some heavy CPUs (remember that you still only have 300W to play with as the 300W HDplex AC-DC sets the maximum watt).

2) 300W AC-DC -> Dynamo 360
Dedicated line for the GFX.
Both the 360 units will be started by the sync feature that is on these.

If you have a lower power CPU and want more power to the GFX you might be able to run a 12V line from either the 360 or 160 unit from part 1).
It's not optimal as you have little idea how the load is split up on a GFXs two 8 pin inputs (not sure if it's equally shared).

The best way is with the KMPKT merger and then:
300W AC-DC + 300W AC-DC (merger) -> 600W 19V DC -> Dynamo 360 -> Dynamo 360 -> Dynamo 160.
And then you install the CPU and GFX with 12V lines from the right places so you don't overheat a Dynamo unit.

Hope this explains it.

For my system, I only have a 8600K and a 1070 therefore I got a 300W AC-DC + Dynamo 360 for the GFX and a 160W AC-DC + Dynamo 160 for the motherboard and CPU.
The Apex motherboard have two 8 pins input so if the 160W units is not able to power it, then additional power can come from the 300W line (Dynamo 360).

You'd just need to jump pin 3-4 from one unit to the other of the 24-pin cables and voila, two power supplies. Then plug both of those to 300+ bricks and you've got a 600W PSU. Although, I wonder how much a naked SFX Silverstone of similar wattage is in size.
The jumping part is not needed, as the Dynamo 360 have a sync feature so it will power on when prompted to (by a fan header or the 160 unit).

A naked SFX unit is around the same size as two 300W AC-DC + Dynamo sets however it is in one peace. With the units split up one can place them at "unused space" and the heat is spread out as well.
Also you have less cable in the system (the chunky 24 pin is gone :)).

This is a cool project, but there is no point in eatx, atx or even matx without dual card support. Good work so far though!
One word: Threadripper

Though, the cooling alternatives will not be favorable for TR in this case...
Thanks :)
theGryphon says it well; Threadripper!
Though the only possible cooling for these is with a Dynatron A28 + a high RPM 92mm fan (or the very loud A31).
Not the most silent setup, but should be able to handle it.
The 92mm fan should be able to be 25mm thick, but I'm not sure about the IHS height of a threadripper to be sure.
External water cooling is possible, but so is it for every case design XD

But the main reason is my hate-love relationship to ITX boards. I do really love the small size and that they have almost all the features that common people need (for AM4 and 115X).
However, I hate the low focus from manufactures towards ITX (and SFF in general). Typically, good ITX boards comes months later than ATX and mATX. And the price for these good ITX boards are typically higher than the ATX/mATX counterparts.
Also the power delivery is not the best (neither is the cooling, but that could be solved with real heat sinks). Will it work, yes. However, compared to similar ATX boards you just get a better overall product for the same (or lower) price.
Also there is considerable more options in the ATX space than ITX. And talking about space, there is usually more room round the socket for better cooling support (See the Asus Z270/370 problems with LP53 cooler).
By using a ATX motherboard it will be easier to install the Dynatron R15 :-)

And for some people the extra RAM DIMMs is a nice thing to have and usually the ATX boards have more M.2 support.

The case was designed with high end mATX + full length GFX in mind using AC-DC PSUs + DC-DC units.
More specifically the X99, X299 and perhaps for some Threadripper.
I know that ITX version exists of X99 + X299, however there is only one manufacture (thank you @ASRock System, PM me if you want this build to have Threadripper ;)) and they do have limitations (VRM cooling and RAM support) compared to same priced mATX (and ATX).

Supporting ATX (and E-ATX) only represented a ~6% increase in volume (that also made other aspects of the design better) so to me it was a no-brainer. ATX is simply the dominant motherboard size, especially in high end systems and there are people wanting these high ends CPUs in small case even though it might be loud under load.

The "no need for anything above ITX" comment have popped up quite some times. So I decided to work further on the case and add support for SFX and AIO when using ITX. The SFX option makes the system look a lot like the Sentry case, with the main difference being the direction of the GFX. And the SFX PSU is a cheaper and simpler system to make.
However, I think the AIO option appeals to some high end (and OC) system users even though the AC-DC + DC-DC combos will cost a bit more.

TL-DR; I see an appeal in ATXs features, time to market and price/performance compared to ITX even if only one GFX can be installed.
One could install two single slot GFX either air or water cooled (with external radiator solution). But why go through the troubles of 1070 SLI when you can just install a 1080 Ti and get similar performance.

Just as a heads up the KMPKT merge should be available in the next couple months and will allow merging of 2 x 400W units if you want to go bigger :)
Really looking forward to that merger and your cooler (to see if it will beat the Dynatron R15 :p).
Will the merger work with different watt rated PSUs? Such as a HDplex 160 + 300?
Also can you disclose the size of the merger?

Would have loved to support two of the new 400W HDplex units, but the special size of them makes it impossible to do so in my case design :(. Also I don't see a need for 800W as no reasonable system with only one GFX will go beyond 600W (except extreme OC, but this case won't be good for getting so much heat away).
A single 400W unit is possible (though not perfect) which will bring down cost of AC-DC + DC-DC solution for a mid end system (I5/i7 with a 1080 or perhaps 1080 Ti depending on active cooling on the 400W AC-DC).

And if you need a little more juice than 600W, one can always add active cooling to those 300W HDplex AC-DC to get them running up to ~360W continuously load :thumb: (or add a external power brick)