Perhaps a Sliger SM550.
I really like the option to have solid sides and the flow of fans at bottom and exhausting completely out the top
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Completed S401: Salvo Studios <8L mITX Steel Unibody Chassis w/ GPU & CPU fans in same direction
- Thread starter grsychckn
- Start date
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- Tags
- mitx s400 s401 s700 salvo studios steel case
Perhaps a Sliger SM550.
I really like the option to have solid sides and the flow of fans at bottom and exhausting completely out the top
So the Sentry 2.0 has this exact concern covered!
I wonder where they got those little rubber things - perfect!
Edit: Looks like they are custom making them..
Source: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/378828-sentry-console-sized-gaming-pc-case-project/?page=29
Also some new orders were made:
- steel parts for our newly designed rubber-cutting machine. We will use it to make rubber feet for Sentry vertical stand,
Just a word of friendly caution @vanbeveren: forum preference for multiple thoughts in sequence is to edit your post rather than reply multiple times. Hoping to help you out before a <shudders> mod shows up.
Re: feet I was imagining some kind of silicone coating/dip to alleviate scratching issues. I just have an old beater of a desk, so not too much worry there.
SM550 and its siblings look like nice cases. I have heard ruminations that the chimney airflow in sandwichs-style cases don't always work out as planned since the builds are so dense. If the S401 doesn't ultimately end up being your cup of tea, I hope you do find something that works for you. Still, as you keep considering it, please keep us updated on your progress and impressions. Pics/video if you have them too!
Re: feet I was imagining some kind of silicone coating/dip to alleviate scratching issues. I just have an old beater of a desk, so not too much worry there.
SM550 and its siblings look like nice cases. I have heard ruminations that the chimney airflow in sandwichs-style cases don't always work out as planned since the builds are so dense. If the S401 doesn't ultimately end up being your cup of tea, I hope you do find something that works for you. Still, as you keep considering it, please keep us updated on your progress and impressions. Pics/video if you have them too!
I have to say - and I totally knew this going in - I really wish there were an alternate side panel option for purchase that is a bit more closed with strategic cutouts.
I'm not sure what I was thinking here - but I'm not in love with seeing (and hearing noises from) the inside all the time.
Behind shipping, the vent pattern for the S401 has been the biggest challenge for me. Of course, I approached the design from a "function over form" perspective as I don't see myself being that creative. I know what I like when I see it, but I admit I'm not great at making eye-catching designs. I've received so much criticism for the vent pattern that I've been trying to come up with an alternative pattern that also allows as much negative area to surface area as the hex pattern provides.
As for the abundance of holes, it's just too hard to predict where the holes need to be - and since I like symmetry I decided to make the top and bottom vent sizes the same. This of course means that there will be more holes than needed but IMO that's better than not enough.
An option I would be happy to provide you were you interested is to cut a custom acrylic vented panel that would only place holes where your intake fans are. I'd need a picture looking down on your vented panel and using the holes locations I can estimate where you would need to have vents cut and where you don't.
As for the stands, for the S400 I included surface guard tape that you could also use for the S401. You cut it to shape and adhere it to the stands. The other option would be to use edge guard strips which are very much identical to the little pieces on the Sentry stands. You'd still need to cut them to length, but they will hold pretty well although I don't know how unstable they might make the S401.
Edge Guards
Surface Guard Tape
As for your noise complaints, I think most of that can be traced back to the 60mm fans. Try unplugging them and run some temperature tests to see if your build greatly benefits. If cutting the noise is worth it to you, then I say leave them unplugged. In the build I'm making now I set the mainboard fan curves to "silent". This works very well even though I know I could be more aggressive, but they don't make enough of a difference to justify the noise increase.
@grsychckn
Thanks for all that commentary, thoughts and those interesting ideas & offers.
The door trim concept might be just perfect actually (for the feet)
In terms of visuals/noise on vented side - I'm kind of wondering about doing screen/mesh material on the inside of that metal panel (mostly about visuals obviously).
I see that was brought up in here a bit before - is there simply not a material that can be adhered to the inside that stays taught enough to not interfere with CPU/GPU cooler fans?
I admire your efforts on the external version - I just don't personally love the look of it.
Thanks for all that commentary, thoughts and those interesting ideas & offers.
The door trim concept might be just perfect actually (for the feet)
In terms of visuals/noise on vented side - I'm kind of wondering about doing screen/mesh material on the inside of that metal panel (mostly about visuals obviously).
I see that was brought up in here a bit before - is there simply not a material that can be adhered to the inside that stays taught enough to not interfere with CPU/GPU cooler fans?
I admire your efforts on the external version - I just don't personally love the look of it.
Understood. I don't know if you saw the image I posted when I used an adhesive to glue a filter on the inside of the front panel (above the USB ports). Below is an image. You can buy the filter material by length and cut to size you need. For an adhesive, I probably would use an upholstery spray directly on the S401 with foam backing (to prevent spraying the inside of the vent holes) - masking off the rest of the S401 to prevent overspray as well. Other brushable adhesives would work too and the more flexible the better in my opinion.
Filter Material
Great point. I've been thinking the same thing the past couple weeks since I scratched my desk. We need feet covers. Although the Sentry's rubber solution is better than nothing, I'm not impressed. Those rubber pieces fold over the feet, only covering a much smaller footprint for surface area contact. They could've created more surface contact.So the Sentry 2.0 has this exact concern covered!
I wonder where they got those little rubber things - perfect!
Edit: Looks like they are custom making them..
Source: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/378828-sentry-console-sized-gaming-pc-case-project/?page=29
Also some new orders were made:
- steel parts for our newly designed rubber-cutting machine. We will use it to make rubber feet for Sentry vertical stand,
I think a rubber or plastic sleeve for S401 feet would be a very welcome addition. Simply mold a rubber or plastic sleeve, apply a little adhesive to the metal foot, then slip it on. Presto.
But which material, rubber or plastic? Rubber grips more than plastic; plastic slides. Both would work to protect the surface it stands on.
For case stability, however, consider this—imagine if rubber covers were on a standing S401 and you push the case—rubber slip-ons may grip the surface, then suddenly the proud tower of our collective genius tips over and never POSTs again. On the other hand, plastic covers might have less friction, so the case might slide with nudging instead of tipping over. Better yet, include both materials and allow the end user to choose.
But would this be an acceptable extra cost for the benefit of a more stable case that doesn't scratch the surface it's resting on? Well, it would certainly bolster the argument the S401 is a premium product, the design of which circumspectly considers and addresses both the potential for surface damage caused by bare feet and case stability.
I LOVE the hex pattern. It's wide open. Fantastic airflow. And it's a visual theme reflected in the handle seen edge on! If that's not creative consistency, I don't know what is. Only thing you could add is a hexagonal power button. Or make the entire case a hexagon (jk).
I LOVE the hex pattern. It's wide open. Fantastic airflow. And it's a visual theme reflected in the handle seen edge on! If that's not creative consistency, I don't know what is. Only thing you could add is a hexagonal power button. Or make the entire case a hexagon (jk).
Just to add onto this… I also think the hexagons are cool I just had wished there were an option for it being a little bit less open up with more strategically placed hexagon holes
Great point. I've been thinking the same thing the past couple weeks since I scratched my desk. We need feet covers. Although the Sentry's rubber solution is better than nothing, I'm not impressed. Those rubber pieces fold over the feet, only covering a much smaller footprint for surface area contact. They could've created more surface contact.
I think a rubber or plastic sleeve for S401 feet would be a very welcome addition. Simply mold a rubber or plastic sleeve, apply a little adhesive to the metal foot, then slip it on. Presto.
But which material, rubber or plastic? Rubber grips more than plastic; plastic slides. Both would work to protect the surface it stands on.
For case stability, however, consider this—imagine if rubber covers were on a standing S401 and you push the case—rubber slip-ons may grip the surface, then suddenly the proud tower of our collective genius tips over and never POSTs again. On the other hand, plastic covers might have less friction, so the case might slide with nudging instead of tipping over. Better yet, include both materials and allow the end user to choose.
But would this be an acceptable extra cost for the benefit of a more stable case that doesn't scratch the surface it's resting on? Well, it would certainly bolster the argument the S401 is a premium product, the design of which circumspectly considers and addresses both the potential for surface damage caused by bare feet and case stability.
Something like this would work well I think if you wanted a rubberized coating on the stands to prevent scratching. I would be concerned about the resiliency however as I'm not sure how well it would adhere to the powder coat.
Understood. I don't know if you saw the image I posted when I used an adhesive to glue a filter on the inside of the front panel (above the USB ports). Below is an image. You can buy the filter material by length and cut to size you need. For an adhesive, I probably would use an upholstery spray directly on the S401 with foam backing (to prevent spraying the inside of the vent holes) - masking off the rest of the S401 to prevent overspray as well. Other brushable adhesives would work too and the more flexible the better in my opinion.
Filter Material
That looks VERY nice!!
Well - Pretty frustrating night on this build unfortunately.
Sadly, the LP53 juuuuuuust came that close to fitting on my MoBo with the fins parallel to the ram and perpendicular to "up", but sadly the VRM cooler is just not going to allow it. As a result I had to mount it the other way and I tried push and pull formations on the Noctua and this isn't great. Way too much venturing into the low to mid 80's.
With this exact CPU and the Big Shuriken 2 inside the Node 202, I never saw the 80's one single time.
Is the Big Shuriken and that much larger Noctua perhaps a simply much more formidable cooling solution than the LP53 + smaller Noctua?
It surely can't be helping that the fins of the LP53 are essentially boxed in by the VRM heatsink on one side and the RAM on the other.
I'm sort of at a loss here. My motivation to try another cooler is somewhat low here as I'm so out of pocket on all these parts as is.
Man this sucks..
I'm starting to lean towards punting, selling the LP53, Noctua, Salvo and just moving back into the Node and counting my losses a bit.
sigh..
Sadly, the LP53 juuuuuuust came that close to fitting on my MoBo with the fins parallel to the ram and perpendicular to "up", but sadly the VRM cooler is just not going to allow it. As a result I had to mount it the other way and I tried push and pull formations on the Noctua and this isn't great. Way too much venturing into the low to mid 80's.
With this exact CPU and the Big Shuriken 2 inside the Node 202, I never saw the 80's one single time.
Is the Big Shuriken and that much larger Noctua perhaps a simply much more formidable cooling solution than the LP53 + smaller Noctua?
It surely can't be helping that the fins of the LP53 are essentially boxed in by the VRM heatsink on one side and the RAM on the other.
I'm sort of at a loss here. My motivation to try another cooler is somewhat low here as I'm so out of pocket on all these parts as is.
Man this sucks..
I'm starting to lean towards punting, selling the LP53, Noctua, Salvo and just moving back into the Node and counting my losses a bit.
sigh..
VRM heatsinks are mostly decorative. Try monitoring their temps and running without them. The LP53 should provide direct airflow.
If not, any cheap heatsinks online well do just as good of a job.
The big shuriken is a 6 heatpipes 45 tall, 120x120mm air flow area. The LP53 is two heatpipes, 27m tall, 90x80mm air flow area. It is absolutely tiny compared to a big shuriken, so a downgrade in cooling is expected.
And finally, I'm not sure why anyone is concerned about these chips hitting 80C. It has never been an issue and never will. 85C should be the standard operating temp. As long as your noise profile is satisfactory, it's not an issue.
Edit: I apologize if I sound a little aggressive, but the massive hysteria about temps in general is something that ticks all my annoyance.
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Good point - I guess I am mainly put off by it because I've never seen temps within 10 degrees of it, in an arguably much worse case for cooling (Node 202). That Big Shuriken 2 really is amazing it would seem.
I'll try your idea on removing the VRM heatsink, reorienting the LP53 to parallel to the RAM and monitoring.
Or were you suggesting I should keep the LP53 as is so the air from fan, through Lp53, gets directed right onto VRM area where the heatsink was?
Do you have a link to some other heatsink option for VRM if I remove stock but want to do something on there?
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M89YVD9/?tag=theminutiae-20
Or these good looking options also:
https://modmymods.com/air-cooling/ram-vrm-heatsinks.html
Thank you!
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You should remove the heatsink and re-orientate the cooler.
Those aluminum heatsinks should work. Watch a YouTube video on it to identify the VRM and make sure they're snug on it.
But quite a few entry motherboard lack VRM heatsink and they run fine.
Regardless of the outcome, I'm of the opinion that 85C is fine.
Yes it is. I run the official store and uploaded it on thingiverse. Glad you like it.
More testing to go here still, but after an hour so far...
WOW.
First of all - thank YOU to @Thehack & @grsychckn for tips and thoughts on what to do here.
I've removed my VRM heatsink, reoriented the LP53 so the fins are parallel to the RAM and allow air to go straight up and out, installed the two 60x15mm fans and set them at 30% constant in the BIOS and then zip tied a 120mm Noctua low profile fan onto the LP53, slightly off center to allow for tall RAM and also to direct airflow straight down on to the area opened up by removal of the VRM heatsink.
MASSIVE difference here.
PCH & VRM are staying in the low 50's during 4k/60fps gaming and the CPU hasn't cracked 65 C yet.
Even the 1080ti seems to be benefiting from less ambient heat, as that's staying sub 67 C also.
This is a GAME changer! So so pleased so far.
Did I mention how quiet the machine is also?
This is fantastic
Thank you all for the help here!!
WOW.
First of all - thank YOU to @Thehack & @grsychckn for tips and thoughts on what to do here.
I've removed my VRM heatsink, reoriented the LP53 so the fins are parallel to the RAM and allow air to go straight up and out, installed the two 60x15mm fans and set them at 30% constant in the BIOS and then zip tied a 120mm Noctua low profile fan onto the LP53, slightly off center to allow for tall RAM and also to direct airflow straight down on to the area opened up by removal of the VRM heatsink.
MASSIVE difference here.
PCH & VRM are staying in the low 50's during 4k/60fps gaming and the CPU hasn't cracked 65 C yet.
Even the 1080ti seems to be benefiting from less ambient heat, as that's staying sub 67 C also.
This is a GAME changer! So so pleased so far.
Did I mention how quiet the machine is also?
This is fantastic
Thank you all for the help here!!
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I figured as much... VRM can be cooled with some direct airflow. It also helps that gaming at 60 fps there is less load on the cpu.
I'm glad you were adventurous to try it out. Many people are afraid of any kind of modifications...
Maybe it's time for a 120mm fan adapter for LP53?
I'm glad you were adventurous to try it out. Many people are afraid of any kind of modifications...
Maybe it's time for a 120mm fan adapter for LP53?
Maybe it's time for a 120mm fan adapter for LP53?
You read my mind - seriously.
The zip tie thing "works", but looks like crap.. lol
