That is exactly why I asked for the album. A couple of my colleagues are into the SFF space as well and I was really excited to show them.
S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)
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The specs listed for that power bank state that it won't charge anything that has more than a 5A power draw. Assuming it outputs 19V~ you would only be capable of providing 95W of power off that power bank, which isn't going to let you power a PC with discrete graphics card under load (although, for non-gaming tasks it may work)
I asked him about it on the youtube video, he says its actually not that loud.
There's a 2tb Seagate Barracuda for under 100. Most M.2 drives will have marginal performance gains against each other unless you opt for an NVME.
Curiosity
Too busy figuring out if I can to think if I shoul
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Was thinking about that new MSI GPU.
I think it's going to be a 1070, and one that'll fit at that.
I reckon it's what they're using in their Trident SFF PC's top spec, backed up by the description for this newegg video.
I think it's going to be a 1070, and one that'll fit at that.
I reckon it's what they're using in their Trident SFF PC's top spec, backed up by the description for this newegg video.
From the other day:
The IS VC45 is garbage. There, I said it. But after tuning the Zotac 1080 is pretty OK. What do you really expect from a 1080 under load
You hear the sound from the headphones over the Zotac, and the fan noise is the CPU cooler.
The IS VC45 is garbage. There, I said it. But after tuning the Zotac 1080 is pretty OK. What do you really expect from a 1080 under load
You hear the sound from the headphones over the Zotac, and the fan noise is the CPU cooler.
If anyone was looking at slim 140mm fans, I bought both the Raijintek Aeolus https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA66Z28S3551 and the Cryorig CR-XTA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAPV5YW/?tag=theminutiae-20
Both are 140mm by 13mm thin, the thinnest I could find. I used calipers though and the Raijintek was 13.6mm thick while the Cryorig was 12.9mm. The Cryorig also had much nicer packaging, aesthetics, and featured ball bearings on some kind of rubber anti-vibration mount for the fan, while the Raijintek used a plain sleeve bearing. They are both inaudible at my PC's RPM settings though. They're the same price so I'd say the Cryorig is a much better value.
Both are 140mm by 13mm thin, the thinnest I could find. I used calipers though and the Raijintek was 13.6mm thick while the Cryorig was 12.9mm. The Cryorig also had much nicer packaging, aesthetics, and featured ball bearings on some kind of rubber anti-vibration mount for the fan, while the Raijintek used a plain sleeve bearing. They are both inaudible at my PC's RPM settings though. They're the same price so I'd say the Cryorig is a much better value.
To keep from cluttering this thread and distracting from everyone else's questions, if you want to help with this, consider going to my thread about this in Hardware.
My understanding is that the NZXT Hue+ would probably keep me from easily fitting a 120mm fan near my GPU. A compromise I just thought of would be to use a RGB fan in this area, but I'd still need something to control the RGB. Are there any more compact RGB controllers? (More compact than the 2.5" drive form factor.)
My understanding is that the NZXT Hue+ would probably keep me from easily fitting a 120mm fan near my GPU. A compromise I just thought of would be to use a RGB fan in this area, but I'd still need something to control the RGB. Are there any more compact RGB controllers? (More compact than the 2.5" drive form factor.)
I lurve me some Paul C Buff gear (have bought/gone through literally dozens of ABR800s
BTW, while I recommend bare RC/drone batteries for the best bang/buck, you can probably simply buy a Vagabond VLX spare battery to hook up - these are approved for air travel, which is nice, you just need to sort out a barrel jack connector. (a 24V 6.6Ah ebike/scooter battery should technically be travel-safe (<160Wh) if approved as well)
So I would be able to attach a barrel jack to the black and red ports? That is pretty interesting. My use case for wanting to make it portable would be to use it as a sort of backpack computer while traveling. I wouldn't be using it to game on the go, and wouldn't really need to fire up the video card. Not sure if it would be beneficial, but do you think it would be possible to rig up an external switch that somehow cancels power draw to the dedicated GPU, such that I could just use the internal GPU in the CPU? Not sure if current pascal GPUs draw enough power at idle to justify it, but might reduce drain on the battery.
IMO you'd need very specific reasons to not get a laptop if travel is your primary use case. I am using a Gigabyte Aero 14 (7700HQ and GTX 1060) now that is VR capable and is lighter and less volume than the S4 I used to travel with, and it will do 8-10hrs on battery to boot (I can also extend the charge w/ an easy to fly with, very cheap/flexible 19V/4.5A battery). If you don't need a GPU when traveling like you say, then consider a 2017 Spectre x360 13 - it's 1.3kg and <1L. Both are cheaper than comparable S4 builds.
So I'm yet again having issues with BSOD and GPU crashing periodically throughout the week and I can't tell if my GTX970 is going bad, my HDPLEX 250W is going bad, or something else. Has anyone else had similar problems as I have?
I've back-ordered a 300W HDPLEX anyways, so I guess I'll find out fairly soon
I've back-ordered a 300W HDPLEX anyways, so I guess I'll find out fairly soon
Most people have experienced the fault being the AC-DC PSU, especially with more beefy components. But it's hard to diagnose PSU issues, especially with split AC-DC and DC-DC power supplies.
start by dropping all your overclocks in the BIOS and in windows. then troubleshoot from there?
I have a spare new 300w HDPLEX that tests good but the DC cable is bad. I mishandled it when installing it and made the solder points loose. I am told the revised version will have beefed up plastic headers at the solder points like the 250w. I'm using a 300w with the older 250w 4p power cable now and it works fine. If you'd like to do the same I can sell/trade you my HDPLEX 300w.
*I also have a spare HDPLEX longer PCIE cable and a shorter non-HDPLEX 15cm one.
It is just something you need to troubleshoot. I spend alot of time troubleshooting with customers and in my experience the DC-DC board is the least likely component to go bad. It is possible of course, but I've seen it ONCE...and only halfway (as it started working again).
What I have seen:
1. Your wiring has deteriorated (could be something loose, pulled, etc) replacing or finding a loose or bad cable has solved most these issues.
2. Like Phuncz said, the AC-DC brick is the next culprit especially under heavy loads. The Dell 330w and the Adapter Tech 192w are some of the toughest bricks I've seen but others I see failures quite often.
3. I have had one full build customer with a ASUS GTX 970 whose card started failing and ultimately stopped. So don't rule it out.
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Well that's dissapointing. a 1070? and it's still gor DVI? wow.
Was expecting a 1080 with at least no DVI.
Was expecting a 1080 with at least no DVI.
At least it doesn't have the second DVI and gets +2 DisplayPort compared to others.
Edit: Looks like 2 HDMI and 2 DP.
It's probably the cabling at this point, considering that my DC-IN connector melted a few times before and my current DC-IN cable is a poorly soldered hack-job.
I'll try to do a better job when the new psu arrives. Meanwhile, I'm selling a 250W hdplex for $30 if anyone's interested. The DC-IN connector on it is epoxied in place but its otherwise functional
How much are you selling your 300W HDPLEX for? I'm interested considering Amazon is out of stock, but I would prefer to have the 6 pin DC cable.
Well, it doesn't look oversized at least. Probably won't require any modding to insert. Considering the Galax 1070 Mini is still MIA, I might pick up whichever comes out first (assuming I don't get a 1060 to have mercy on my storage devices).
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