Wow that is one expensive dremel.
Mine costs me 50 aud and even includes a flexible shaft.
S4 MINI Classic (S4M-C)
- Thread starter Josh | NFC
- Start date
Mine costs me 50 aud and even includes a flexible shaft.
Can anyone suggest a 90 degree or L-shaped PCIE connector for the Zotac Mini? My threaded cable is a tight fit and creates a tilt in the GPU because of it.
There are some low profile ones on eBay. Just make sure you get the right connector type. A tad expensive though
He also sells through Amazon.
https://www.amazon.ca/Degree-Right-Angle-Female-Inverted/dp/B0749C32X6
@Josh | NFC
Tin snips worked perfect btw. The metal sort of "popped" when i cut it, instead of a slow cut like a more malleable metal. I made 2 cuts and then used a pair of pliers to bend the flap back against the metal inside. I scratched the finish slightly on the outside even though i was using some cloth with the pliers to try to prevent that from happening, but its right under the wrap around bezel so you can't see it without getting super close and using a flashlight. Now the power plug can be connected in either orientation and sits flat.
I got the skywire cables. They look great, but are much stiffer than i was expecting. I thought i was going to break them they took so much pressure to bend, but eventually was able to get them installed.
Lost my job unexpectedly, so a couple of parts i was planning on buying on the 1st have to be postponed. So i may wait till the Ryzen 5 2600 comes out in April to finish this build. All i need is the CPU, GPU, RAM, and SSD. I already have the L9a-AM4 cpu cooler. I can re-use the GPU in my current system (gtx 960) as its already short enough, but i'd like to be able to use both computers at the same time so will eventually get a 1070 when they get back in stock. Have a new job already lined up, so hopefully i can go ahead and grab the RAM and M.2 SSD soon.
Overall I'm really happy with the build so far. This case looks amazing. My wife wants to get one of your new S4M's with a zebrawood finish front plate, but i told her she has to wait till mine is finished.
Tin snips worked perfect btw. The metal sort of "popped" when i cut it, instead of a slow cut like a more malleable metal. I made 2 cuts and then used a pair of pliers to bend the flap back against the metal inside. I scratched the finish slightly on the outside even though i was using some cloth with the pliers to try to prevent that from happening, but its right under the wrap around bezel so you can't see it without getting super close and using a flashlight. Now the power plug can be connected in either orientation and sits flat.
I got the skywire cables. They look great, but are much stiffer than i was expecting. I thought i was going to break them they took so much pressure to bend, but eventually was able to get them installed.
Lost my job unexpectedly, so a couple of parts i was planning on buying on the 1st have to be postponed. So i may wait till the Ryzen 5 2600 comes out in April to finish this build. All i need is the CPU, GPU, RAM, and SSD. I already have the L9a-AM4 cpu cooler. I can re-use the GPU in my current system (gtx 960) as its already short enough, but i'd like to be able to use both computers at the same time so will eventually get a 1070 when they get back in stock. Have a new job already lined up, so hopefully i can go ahead and grab the RAM and M.2 SSD soon.
Overall I'm really happy with the build so far. This case looks amazing. My wife wants to get one of your new S4M's with a zebrawood finish front plate, but i told her she has to wait till mine is finished.
Everyone, @Josh | NFC, I need help. Or any suggestions. I'm having trouble mounting a second drive to the drive bracket because my brick is blocking two mounting points. I tried making a stacking bracket but it's too spaced out and now bulging (see my log)
I could, make a shorter bracket, both side mount, but I'm not sure if these drives are fine stacked without clearance.
A better solution might be to straighten the tabs on the drive bracket (I know this also acts as a flange to keep the bracket straight, but still..) then drill 4 additional holes so as to shift both drives away from the acdc unit.
But to do that I need to be able to countersunk the holes, but, well, how? I've got a dremel, some hammer and pliers, any guide out there on doing it at home?
I could, make a shorter bracket, both side mount, but I'm not sure if these drives are fine stacked without clearance.
A better solution might be to straighten the tabs on the drive bracket (I know this also acts as a flange to keep the bracket straight, but still..) then drill 4 additional holes so as to shift both drives away from the acdc unit.
But to do that I need to be able to countersunk the holes, but, well, how? I've got a dremel, some hammer and pliers, any guide out there on doing it at home?
Use a step-bit or similar, though there are bits designed specifically for the task available in a range of countersink angles.
You have to make that bracket work after $$$ of shipping it to you! NO EXCUSES!
Let's be realistic; straightening the tabs on it is fine. It's made out of steel which makes it very moddable. I *THINK* from looking at your pictures bending the tab and removing the cover of your SSD (it's safe...I did it all the time for my art project mods) will give you plenty of room to mount it in the stock location.
If you want to do it the other way, countersinking the holes this is an easy task for a drill and a countersink bit but I am not sure if a dremel is going to have the torque needed to do this for you. You also need to find a dremel-shanked countersink set...which probably isn't too hard. When I had to mod those brackets I simply used a piece of 2x4 and cut it to the length so the bracket would fit over it perfectly nice and tight. Then you can easily clamp it without deforming and try to hand hold your dremel (oh dear) and gently countersink it.
IMO. Go find a neighbor with a drill press. You'll make a new friend AND get the job done easier.
Or you could send it back to the USA and I will do it for you (but you will pay shipping this time!)
<3
Just wondering what everyones CPU temps are when playing games as i'm getting around 80-90 degrees which is quite high! especially concerned when playing battlefield 1 as it's closer to 90 degrees. I think it may be to do with the resolution i game at which is 3440 x 1440 but i thought that was down to the GPU where temps seem fine on (mid 70s).
My setup:
s4 mini classic
cpu: intel i7 7700 (noctua nh-l9i cooler)
GPU: msi aero geforce gtx 1070
ram: Kingston 16gb ddr4 2666
Motherboard: asus z270i
Storage: samsung 512gb m.2
Any idea on how i can reduce my CPU temps apart from deliding would be much appreciated!
My setup:
s4 mini classic
cpu: intel i7 7700 (noctua nh-l9i cooler)
GPU: msi aero geforce gtx 1070
ram: Kingston 16gb ddr4 2666
Motherboard: asus z270i
Storage: samsung 512gb m.2
Any idea on how i can reduce my CPU temps apart from deliding would be much appreciated!
Hello, Palace!
The best way for is to help is to take a picture of how you have your cooler setup. I've seen customers invert the CPU fan or have the orientation "wrong" on the cooler. A reapplication of TIM and mount of your cooler might help. You don't want to over-tighten your cooler's screws, but you want use your thumbs in case of the NH-l9i. I've made a video to help with this. As a side note there are literally hundreds of posts in this thread on how to reduce temps with these tweaks.
Finally, some Intel chips from 5th gen on have poor TIM application...which is what has driven the delid craze. I find it varies from chip to chip significantly, and it may be that yours would benefit from a delid...but I wouldn't bother.
All said...there is literally no reason to be concerned. 90C playing battlefield is totally fine, and even if you were to reduce your temps by a whopping 20C you still are going to have the NHl9i at full speed and the same noise level, which is to say, not much at all (love how quiet that fan is!).
The pursuit of lower temps for purposes of tuning and tweaking as a hobby is a great thing...but worrying about perfectly functional temps is just that...unnecessary worry.
Don't worry, be happy, play some Battlefield!
Peace.
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Hi Josh, I have my cooler set up exactly the way you did it in your video as that's the video i followed haha, however i didn't remove the heatsink to let even more air pass out, will that make a big difference as i struggled to remove the screws so didn't bother but if it makes a difference i may go ahead and do that. I was just concerned as i read a forum which went on to say that high cpu temps may lead to stuttering which i have been experiencing, i have a ultra wide g-sync monitor.
I do believe that you can see a temperature drop by removing that heatsink. I have observed it. That's not science quite yet but I can tell you removing it doesn't adversely affect anything as I accumulated a basket of those little heatsinks before I cleaned my office last week, hehe.
Yes, if your application is riding the line of your systems performance and your CPU drops its turbo, then you will see some stuttering. Something that you might try is approach this from the software side of things. Have you set a frame cap in game yet or set maximum pre-rendered frames to 1 in the Nvidia control panel? This might be outdated info but this use to help some users who played at high resolutions in BF1--playing with these settings should lower your CPU useage and help your GPU.
Peace
FeelsBadMan. I finally finished my S4 but the vent plate I bought that goes over the open 2D bezel won't fit. It just slightly doesn't make contact with the cutout so the GPU stays protruded. I remember watching a video from Josh on how this was a problem that was recently remedy but forgot how he said to fix it. Guess I'll have to get a new front bezel if all else fails unless Josh has fixed this somehow.
Double sided tape I'm betting. Slightly thick double sided tape.
I'm sorry for the confusion. Which bezel did you order? the 5.5 or 7mm one?
I think this was caused by a couple forum members who wanted to use this method but it is not one that I have suggested or advertised as working. If you have a 1080 or 1080ti you need the 9mm bezel:
http://nfc-systems.com/shop-all/2d-open-bezel
I'm happy to take returns/exchanges. Note that I recommend the 3D bezel now. What GPU do you have? I can give you a discount on one of the exotic hardwood bezels for the MINI as an apology for the confusion.
Hey Josh. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I got the 7mm 2D frosted/open bezel and vent plate. I fixed the tilt problem with the GPU but the vent plate won't fit over the opening (I have a Zotac GTX 1080). I'd love a 3D bezel to avoid having the need for the plate all together. What colors/styles do you have in stock now?
Everything on my site is up to date regarding the S4M-C:
http://nfc-systems.com/shop-all?category=S4M-C Only
So the Mahogany and Walnut. I have one Walnut 2D open too the proper thickness. Could be an interesting combo and would for sure fit.
http://nfc-systems.com/shop-all?category=S4M-C Only
So the Mahogany and Walnut. I have one Walnut 2D open too the proper thickness. Could be an interesting combo and would for sure fit.
