Prototype MT5: 5.4L Expandable case for mini GPUs
- Thread starter CC Ricers
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On trying out larger design variations, I came up with a longer case that can support a SFX or SFX-L power supply with a mini ITX length video card. Or for the more adventurous, you can substitute the SFX power supply for a longer card up to 244mm in length with a custom power setup. It is also wider but height is the same. Total dimensions are 260x131x199 mm.
For the smaller case it's 40mm. For the larger case with SFX support, I'm aiming for at least 60mm.
It's doubtful for now, I would have to make the case wider by 1cm and this case is already 25mm wider than the shorter one.
*Maybe* I could make fitting the NH-L9x65 possible. But in the 55 to 60mm range, Thermalright AXP100 would be one of the best choices for coolers.
I am very close to being done with modeling the main pieces of the case. The bottom side has been reinforced with side tabs that have screw hole locations that are used for either mounting an SSD or an inner side panel that can screw on DC-DC power supplies like the Dynamo 360 or HD-PLEX 400W.
A few thoughts on the design:
Most "mini" GPUs exhaust hot air towards the ports AND in the opposite direction. The second exhaust even handles the bigger air volume. Do not block it. Otherwise you will have to think about custom GPU cooling OR face GPU thermal throttling. IMHO its best to put a grill on the front panel so the hot air from the GPU "back" exhaust go out the case unobstructed.
The CPU cooling clearance should be no less than 2U (66mm), if you plan on using intel CPU with more than 65 TDP or any Ryzen.
Consider FlexATX PSU. Like the ones from FSP group. Currently they have the best power-to-volume ratio.
Most "mini" GPUs exhaust hot air towards the ports AND in the opposite direction. The second exhaust even handles the bigger air volume. Do not block it. Otherwise you will have to think about custom GPU cooling OR face GPU thermal throttling. IMHO its best to put a grill on the front panel so the hot air from the GPU "back" exhaust go out the case unobstructed.
The CPU cooling clearance should be no less than 2U (66mm), if you plan on using intel CPU with more than 65 TDP or any Ryzen.
Consider FlexATX PSU. Like the ones from FSP group. Currently they have the best power-to-volume ratio.
By the second exhaust, you mean the front of the card? I'm curious about how much mini cards will throttle then, because Custom MOD makes metal cases with the same layout that I'm planning but the front of their cases are also lack exhaust vents, like mine. I don't know how hot the cards get with the customers that bought their cases, though.
Adding front vents will require a redesign in a way that I'd be happy with how it will also fit in with the rest of the case. I could offer side panels with more ventilation on the front edge, for example have a wide notch that cuts inwards so air moves out of the edges.
The simplest heat test I could do is just test it with as open a frame as possible, have all the available holes uncovered. You used PLA to print your prototypes, correct? I plan to go straight to ABS for my prototypes, so it should be more heat resistant to GPU and CPU temperatures.
For Flex ATX PSUs, that is more probable in a separate, larger variation of the case. Although I might just settle with SFX.
Adding front vents will require a redesign in a way that I'd be happy with how it will also fit in with the rest of the case. I could offer side panels with more ventilation on the front edge, for example have a wide notch that cuts inwards so air moves out of the edges.
The simplest heat test I could do is just test it with as open a frame as possible, have all the available holes uncovered. You used PLA to print your prototypes, correct? I plan to go straight to ABS for my prototypes, so it should be more heat resistant to GPU and CPU temperatures.
For Flex ATX PSUs, that is more probable in a separate, larger variation of the case. Although I might just settle with SFX.
By "Second exhaust" I refer the side of the card that is pointing towards the SFX PSU in Post #22.
By default nVidia based cards Thermal throttle at 80C. Every GPU cooler is designed to prevent that, as long as there is enough fresh air for the fan to suck AND the exhaust is free to vent the hot air. Blocking the exhaust or trapping the air in the case lead to overheating. A lot of people make that mistake. Here is a well documented example.
PLA fails dramatically (with sagging and discoloration) at >80C. If you are hitting 80C ,the PLA is you last problem.
As for the External brick - check this guy:
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...bto-psus-are-now-available-direct-order.1983/
By default nVidia based cards Thermal throttle at 80C. Every GPU cooler is designed to prevent that, as long as there is enough fresh air for the fan to suck AND the exhaust is free to vent the hot air. Blocking the exhaust or trapping the air in the case lead to overheating. A lot of people make that mistake. Here is a well documented example.
PLA fails dramatically (with sagging and discoloration) at >80C. If you are hitting 80C ,the PLA is you last problem.
As for the External brick - check this guy:
https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...bto-psus-are-now-available-direct-order.1983/
Yep, that is pretty ballsy putting the HD-PLEX power brick right beside the Gigabyte card! There will be some space in front of the card, but that hot air will have to go somewhere, most likely it will be forced to move to exit out the top.
I'll be using the Sapphire R9 285 ITX card for my build and I believe that will reach somewhat past 80 degrees C at load. I am not too worried about the CPU- I will either get a 54W CPU or 65W at most, and not overclock it (but I may undervolt it if possible).
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I'm almost finalizing the design and decided for this go around to not use snap-fit and instead just rely on the same screws for the side acrylic panels to also hold the top with the front/back pieces. Plus, it just means less screws than before. This can be held with only 16 screws including both the SSD and PSU bracket- compare that with 22 screws for my thin mini ITX case!
Also to address the (little) elephant in the room- where is the power button!? Well, I wanted to keep the front looking as minimal and clean as possible, but that button had to go somewhere. I didn't want it in the back above the GPU slot because that will interfere with tall GPUs. So I decided to put it the bottom, close to the front.
This makes it a stealth power button, and you just have to lift the front of the case in order to turn it on. Given how small the case is, this should be barely an issue I think.
I'll be using the Sapphire R9 285 ITX card for my build and I believe that will reach somewhat past 80 degrees C at load. I am not too worried about the CPU- I will either get a 54W CPU or 65W at most, and not overclock it (but I may undervolt it if possible).
------
I'm almost finalizing the design and decided for this go around to not use snap-fit and instead just rely on the same screws for the side acrylic panels to also hold the top with the front/back pieces. Plus, it just means less screws than before. This can be held with only 16 screws including both the SSD and PSU bracket- compare that with 22 screws for my thin mini ITX case!
Also to address the (little) elephant in the room- where is the power button!? Well, I wanted to keep the front looking as minimal and clean as possible, but that button had to go somewhere. I didn't want it in the back above the GPU slot because that will interfere with tall GPUs. So I decided to put it the bottom, close to the front.
This makes it a stealth power button, and you just have to lift the front of the case in order to turn it on. Given how small the case is, this should be barely an issue I think.
Just placed an order to get the frame parts printed. They should arrive sometime next week 
A minor update: the printing service told me that for their equipment, it would be hard printing ABS in the way the parts were oriented, without them warping, so it will have to be printed using PETG. But that's only for the prototype. But hopefully I'd be able to use the printing services from one of our regular members here for the production version.
Me too! It's been a long wait. Found someone on 3D Hubs for relatively cheap, they had hit a few snags trying to print the parts all standing up on their shortest edge, but I have preferred this way for aesthetic reasons keeping the "grain" line of the filament parallel on all the pieces. The good thing is you're able to communicate directly with the person doing the print job.
I already have bought the screws and standoffs but one missing important part besides the side panels is the motherboard tray. I will use Ponoko to have an acrylic sheet cut from it. Then it's just the side panels left which complete the case, but not super crucial to trying out builds. I will need them for proper thermal tests though.
Sorry that I didn't choose to go right away with it. This is just for the first prototype using a cheaper material, will be used to test the fitment of parts, if everything lines up physically. Afterwards, I'm still willing to spend more with your service on a higher quality print when my budget allows for it (need to obtain more computer parts).
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