Completed MJOLNIR: The minimalistic – but not boring – 9.7L Case

[N9neBreak3r]

I'm right there with you on that idea, that's actually what we had in mind! Perhaps this shows it more clearly, the idea is that the Dock replaces the back panel of the Core:

Dock (standalone)

Dock (mounted to the Core)

The cables are passed through the opening on the back

Dock (mounted to the Core) + Shell

We can potentially make it so that the internal lighting from the Godrays shines down through and on to the silver piece like @wolfatpno suggested Not sure if the opening for the cables on the back is too large? However, we should be careful making too small as well considering that some GPUs (blower style) are dependent on good exhaust out the back.

If you could add support for a 120mm radiator inside of the base/stand that would be amazing!! It would allow mjolnir to support two 120mm radiators with fans and then high end hardware could be cooled natively! It might make the base/stand a little taller, but you could always make two versions if it's a problem.

 

[N9neBreak3r]

I have a Mjolnir with a booster cell. I am concerned about the solder points on the back of the 4 pin fan header and the back of the BC link PCB touching the spine and shorting. Should I apply tape to possible contact areas? There are 10 solder points on the back of the BC link PCB that will touch the spine and in my vested opinion cannot be spaced off with washers. There a fan and BC lighting voltages from these pins that are LIVE when the machine is running.
The back or the 15mm (thickness) fan connection on the ribbon cable will touch if wrapped over tuck the fan cable as shown in the Pics above.
Is the spine and case not conductive and a ground???

ABOVE IS BACK OF BC LINK CONNECTOR TO BE MOUNTED TO SPINE

ABOVE IS THE BACK OF THE FAN HEADER ON RIBBON CABLE (THE FRONT IS TO BE CONNECTED TO AN OPTIONAL 15MM THICK FAN)

The case/shell definitely isn't conductive, its aluminum. As for the spine, I don't know what it's made of, but if it's steel it may short.

 

[AlexTzone]

@DASBOOT the case is not conductive so you don’t need to apply a tape. Moreover, the link PCB solder pads will not touch the core because we have an opening for it on the front panel of the core (the opening is there to avoid scratches).

 

[For_Science]

@DASBOOT the case is not conductive so you don’t need to apply a tape. Moreover, the link PCB solder pads will not touch the core because we have an opening for it on the front panel of the core (the opening is there to avoid scratches).

As an out there "what if" : What if you scrape through the anodization layer?

 

[N9neBreak3r]

As an out there "what if" : What if you scrape through the anodization layer?

The case/shell is aluminum there isn't a problem as aluminum won't cause a short.

 

[Sazexa]

The case/shell is aluminum there isn't a problem as aluminum won't cause a short.

Bare aluminum is definitely conductive, we use aluminum wire on rare occasion when running service/panel feeders in the electrical industry.

If for some reason you're worried about solder points making contact to ANY metal points, just put a small layer of electrical tape over it. Most of it is rated for at least 600V, even the real cheap stuff.

 

[AlexTzone]

As an out there "what if" : What if you scrape through the anodization layer?

There are no points on the case where leads or wires can scrape the anodizing (we’ve included indents or cutouts everywhere there’s going to be solder points).

@DASBOOT For the Booster Cell you can install the fan like this:

 

[beerbuddha]

There are no points on the case where leads or wires can scrape the anodizing (we’ve included indents or cutouts everywhere there’s going to be solder points).

@DASBOOT For the Booster Cell you can install the fan like this:

just FYI - can't achieve that without stripping the sleeve. Noctua has a thick sleeve as per @N9neBreak3r way of zigzag his extended wire

 

[DASBOOT]

@DASBOOT the case is not conductive so you don’t need to apply a tape. Moreover, the link PCB solder pads will not touch the core because we have an opening for it on the front panel of the core (the opening is there to avoid scratches).

If aluminum was not conductive you could not anodize it... although its conductivity is much lower than steel or copper, gold or silver.
Anodizing is an electrochemical process that converts the metal surface into a decorative, durable, corrosion-resistant, anodic oxide finish. ... Anodizing is accomplished by immersing the aluminum into an acid electrolyte bath and passing an electric current through the medium.
Metals that can be anodized do not include steel: Aluminum, Titanium, Magnesium, Niobium, Tantalum, and Zinc.

 

[N9neBreak3r]

Bare aluminum is definitely conductive, we use aluminum wire on rare occasion when running service/panel feeders in the electrical industry.

If for some reason you're worried about solder points making contact to ANY metal points, just put a small layer of electrical tape over it. Most of it is rated for at least 600V, even the real cheap stuff.

If aluminum was not conductive you could anodize it... although its conductivity is much lower than steel or copper, gold or silver.
Anodizing is an electrochemical process that converts the metal surface into a decorative, durable, corrosion-resistant, anodic oxide finish. ... Anodizing is accomplished by immersing the aluminum into an acid electrolyte bath and passing an electric current through the medium.
Metals that can be anodized do not include steel: Aluminum, Titanium, Magnesium, Niobium, Tantalum, and Zinc.

Lol sorry guys, my whole life I thought aluminum wasn't conductive. Thanks for letting me know, it's a good thing I don't play with electricity much cause I probably would have hurt myself haha also you've probably saved me from potentially frying a gpu in the future thinking that aluminum isn't conductive and putting a backplate straight on the pcb back.

 

[For_Science]

Lol sorry guys, my whole life I thought aluminum wasn't conductive. Thanks for letting me know, it's a good thing I don't play with electricity much cause I probably would have hurt myself haha also you've probably saved me from potentially frying a gpu in the future thinking that aluminum isn't conductive and putting a backplate straight on the pcb back.

Being electrically conductive is essentially one of the definitions of being a metal. High school chemistry sometimes does come into use once in a while

 

[JCB42]

Awesome

 

[JCB42]

So would a custom loop ASUS EKWB 3080/3090 (single slot) be a bit ambitions to fit in the Thorzone? Thinking an AMD R9 5000 series CPU.

From briefly reading some of the comments here, it seems although you can get a 240mm rad in, you can only cool it with 1no. 120 fan between it an the GPU?

Whats the estimated clearance on the gpu side to fit a radiator in-front of the GPU?

A 3090 custom loop was my initially intend build for gaming only and CAD/ Photoshop work as well, no mining.

Not received my shipping no. Yet, but I thought I’d get peoples input here, since I’ve only just discovered this forum (HI!)

 

[beerbuddha]

So would a custom loop ASUS EKWB 3080/3090 (single slot) be a bit ambitions to fit in the Thorzone? Thinking an AMD R9 5000 series CPU.

From briefly reading some of the comments here, it seems although you can get a 240mm rad in, you can only cool it with 1no. 120 fan between it an the GPU?

Whats the estimated clearance on the gpu side to fit a radiator in-front of the GPU?

A 3090 custom loop was my initially intend build for gaming only and CAD/ Photoshop work as well, no mining.

Not received my shipping no. Yet, but I thought I’d get peoples input here, since I’ve only just discovered this forum (HI!)

you CANNOT get a 2440mm rad in unless your motherboard is smaller than the existing B550-i there is not enough fit to have the radiator + 15mm. there is roughly 5cm between AIO + 25mm and the SFX PSU mount for your cables. Stock cables is rough already

would not recommend to go crazy.

Im already regretting to have bought be-quiet pure loop AIO 120mm - the pump on the tube messed me up - corsair H60 + precise custom loop is recommended, but if you do a small pump you wont have enough air

 

[N9neBreak3r]

So would a custom loop ASUS EKWB 3080/3090 (single slot) be a bit ambitions to fit in the Thorzone? Thinking an AMD R9 5000 series CPU.

From briefly reading some of the comments here, it seems although you can get a 240mm rad in, you can only cool it with 1no. 120 fan between it an the GPU?

Whats the estimated clearance on the gpu side to fit a radiator in-front of the GPU?

A 3090 custom loop was my initially intend build for gaming only and CAD/ Photoshop work as well, no mining.

Not received my shipping no. Yet, but I thought I’d get peoples input here, since I’ve only just discovered this forum (HI!)

I'm doing a 3080 Ti and ryzen 9 5950x custom loop. I'm using a 120mm radiator and dc-lt 2600 pump inside the case. Outside I'm using two tx240 240mm radiators and another dc-lt 2600 pump I've built into a stand that the case will sit on top of.
The only other viable solution I can think of would be to cut the performance panels to allow room for 240mm radiators to sit on each side of Mjolnir and then a 120mm or 240mm radiator at the bottom. Then have the booster cell installed as an exhaust fan to allow the case to work like the corsair one, sucking air through the radiators.
The tx240 radiator will not fit in the bottom of Mjolnir, its too wide by 1.5mm or so. You could sand down the sides of the radiator by that amount and get it to fit however. The only other option is the Hyanjian 240 radiator, however, this radiator does not give much cooling performance and should not be used as the main or only radiator in the system.
I'd say the easy route is using external radiators. It's what I'm doing for my first build in Mjolnir. However I did order extra performance panels that will come in with batch 2/3 orders and I plan to try cutting them to fit radiators like I said above.
You could even try using server radiators inside Mjolnir (you know the small 90mm and 40mm ones). Use your imagination, I can't wait to see what you come up with!

 

[Sazexa]

Lol sorry guys, my whole life I thought aluminum wasn't conductive. Thanks for letting me know, it's a good thing I don't play with electricity much cause I probably would have hurt myself haha also you've probably saved me from potentially frying a gpu in the future thinking that aluminum isn't conductive and putting a backplate straight on the pcb back.

You'd be surprised what's conductive and what isn't. I've seen a friend short out the back of his GPU with a dry paper-towel just wiping dust of the back of the PCB while running. To be fair, I advised him not to lol

You can make an aluminum backplate, just make sure to either have it stand off the PCB aside from where it contacts to screw down, on the non-conductive portions, or layer the entire thing, very nicely, with tape or some sort of non-conductive vinyl material.

 

[beerbuddha]

I'm doing a 3080 Ti and ryzen 9 5950x custom loop. I'm using a 120mm radiator and dc-lt 2600 pump inside the case. Outside I'm using two tx240 240mm radiators and another dc-lt 2600 pump I've built into a stand that the case will sit on top of.
The only other viable solution I can think of would be to cut the performance panels to allow room for 240mm radiators to sit on each side of Mjolnir and then a 120mm or 240mm radiator at the bottom. Then have the booster cell installed as an exhaust fan to allow the case to work like the corsair one, sucking air through the radiators.
The tx240 radiator will not fit in the bottom of Mjolnir, its too wide by 1.5mm or so. You could sand down the sides of the radiator by that amount and get it to fit however. The only other option is the Hyanjian 240 radiator, however, this radiator does not give much cooling performance and should not be used as the main or only radiator in the system.
I'd say the easy route is using external radiators. It's what I'm doing for my first build in Mjolnir. However I did order extra performance panels that will come in with batch 2/3 orders and I plan to try cutting them to fit radiators like I said above.
You could even try using server radiators inside Mjolnir (you know the small 90mm and 40mm ones). Use your imagination, I can't wait to see what you come up with!

how you fitting all that inside the case??? i had enough hard time fitting the 120mm.

 

[N9neBreak3r]

how you fitting all that inside the case??? i had enough hard time fitting the 120mm.

Lol I should have it done by wednesday-friday next week. It's not gonna be too bad, my custom cables help immensely! The only part I'm not looking forward to is the cable management because I want to put light rings on all the tubes so they glow and each one has a 5v rgb cable coming off it.
I'll make a video and imgur album and post it once I'm done!

 

[beerbuddha]

Lol I should have it done by wednesday-friday next week. It's not gonna be too bad, my custom cables help immensely! The only part I'm not looking forward to is the cable management because I want to put light rings on all the tubes so they glow and each one has a 5v rgb cable coming off it.
I'll make a video and imgur album and post it once I'm done!

you fancy now
yes my custom cables are coming next month, but I will deal till then.

 

[JCB42]

Then have the booster cell installed as an exhaust fan to allow the case to work like the corsair one, sucking air through the radiators.
The tx240 radiator will not fit in the bottom of Mjolnir, its too wide by 1.5mm or so. You could sand down the sides of the radiator by that amount and get it to fit however. The only other option is the Hyanjian 240 radiator, however, this radiator does not give much cooling performance and should not be used as the main or only radiator in the system.

I'm actually running an old 2017 Corsair One as my main build, love how quiet it stays even after hrs of gaming.

Sorry, what's the Hyanjian 240 rad? - do you have a link? google let me down. I wouldn't be adverse to sanding, however you're still stuck with just a 1 fan between your PSU and 240 on the floor/top of your case?

Looking forwards to pictures & thermal comparisons with and without your external radiator. Pretty sure a 140mm will get toasty inside with that ti, but I'd love to know if it's even feasible for extended periods