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Prototype J-HACK PLUGin 200X

BaK

King of Cable Management
Bronze Supporter
May 17, 2016
969
958
The M2426 is more of a replacement for the 24 pin cable from atx psu.

This is a traditional “picopsu”.
Ok but aren't the two able to reach the same goal, powering a system along with a 12V PSU?

I was already intrigued by what you said in the M2426 thread:
M2426 is for ATX psu only. For 12v single output psu, the one you need is Plugin 200X.

But as I understand it nothing prevents us to use the M2426 with a MeanWell PSU, as @dreadpiratebob showed us with his build.
There is even a specific PS_ON for MeanWell PSUs on the M2426.

Sorry to insist but I try to picture this correctly in my head.
Especially as I am going to start a build with a MW RPS-500-12 and a M2426 (which should take care of turning off a GPU).
Should I take the 200X instead? If so, why?
To me they look to be both 200W capable and MeanWell compatible.
 

Thehack

Spatial Philosopher
Original poster
Creator
Mar 6, 2016
2,814
3,670
J-hackcompany.com
Ok but aren't the two able to reach the same goal, powering a system along with a 12V PSU?

I was already intrigued by what you said in the M2426 thread:


But as I understand it nothing prevents us to use the M2426 with a MeanWell PSU, as @dreadpiratebob showed us with his build.
There is even a specific PS_ON for MeanWell PSUs on the M2426.

Sorry to insist but I try to picture this correctly in my head.
Especially as I am going to start a build with a MW RPS-500-12 and a M2426 (which should take care of turning off a GPU).
Should I take the 200X instead? If so, why?
To me they look to be both 200W capable and MeanWell compatible.
M2426 can work with psu that has pson function like the meanwell 500w.

Not every psu has this function. For example an external brick. You need the 200X to work with bricks.
 
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ricsonc

Chassis Packer
Feb 4, 2021
17
1
Thanks for the response! I'll probably wait for this then than get a M2426.

My reasoning is that I want to keep this long term and use it with other external power bricks in the future. I am confused as to what 5VSB and 12VSB is for.

If the 200x will work with external power bricks then it should be fine without 5VSB and 12VSB right? Say for example a Dell power brick will not have 5VSB and 12VSB.
 

Thehack

Spatial Philosopher
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Mar 6, 2016
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Thanks for the response! I'll probably wait for this then than get a M2426.

My reasoning is that I want to keep this long term and use it with other external power bricks in the future. I am confused as to what 5VSB and 12VSB is for.


If the 200x will work with external power bricks then it should be fine without 5VSB and 12VSB right? Say for example a Dell power brick will not have 5VSB and 12VSB.
In order to have PS_on you generally need a standby voltage. PSon is remote control and generally the standby voltage provides some juice to power the logic to control the psu.

Yes. The 200X is designed for external bricks so that should be your choice.

Some dell bricks actually have standby voltage. Forget which one but there is a fairly common one that people use for external psu that is standby voltage. The issue with that one is the connector is non standard so it wasn’t very enjoyable integrating it.
 

Sicaris

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Dec 6, 2016
119
70
@Thehack I'm looking at the rps-200-c x200 kit to replace the PSU in an inwin Chopin. Do you think the pure MK2 wiring kit would be the appropriate length? On the double SATA kit are both connectors at 250 mm? I'm planning on an ODD and a HDD in the bottom. I was going to take the plunge and do my own crimping but you've made it too easy!
 

Sicaris

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Dec 6, 2016
119
70
Just an update to say I got in touch via email, in case anyone else is wondering about the standard cable lengths:

C6 power entry - 50mm
DC Input - 220 mm
CPU power - 220 mm

Order placed, I'm excited to get on the 12v train!
 

morj

Airflow Optimizer
Bronze Supporter
Feb 11, 2020
362
695
Update:

First batch of 200X has been assembled.


Hey, @Thehack.

How does your unit compare to this one from RGEEK? Surely the 250W rating of RGEEK looks kind of sus, but probably it can handle 200-ish? What do you think based on the way their unit looks? Is this a real deal, or just an over-rated 160W unit?

EDIT: they claim 144W "average", 192W "peak" on the 12V rail.
 
Last edited:

laiv

Average Stuffer
Jan 25, 2020
75
57
Hi Thehack!
Excuse me in advance if this is not the right post for the question.
I have been looking for specs, reviews, etc about JHack M246 compatibility with PSU brands, but I haven't found anything convincing. Nothing clear at least.

Playing with the custom kit configuration, I understand that both connector and cables are specially addressed to Corsair PSUs, but I wonder If I could use it with my EVGA SuperNova GM. While the connector seems fairly standard and compatible with all Mobos, I guess the cables aren't. Neither the 24pin ATX standard offered as an alternative to the Corsair SF series.

If I were to make my wires (with the mod kit) It would take me to pinout 12v, 5v and ground cables from PSU to the connector (which schema is pictured here.

Probably I should not be playing with these things, but given I want to make my own set of PSU cables, I could make these as well.

Thank you in advance, and congrats on so damn nice products you make.
 

SFFMunkee

Buy first, justify later?
Gold Supporter
Jul 7, 2021
968
1,046
Hi Thehack!
Excuse me in advance if this is not the right post for the question.
I have been looking for specs, reviews, etc about JHack M246 compatibility with PSU brands, but I haven't found anything convincing. Nothing clear at least.

Playing with the custom kit configuration, I understand that both connector and cables are specially addressed to Corsair PSUs, but I wonder If I could use it with my EVGA SuperNova GM. While the connector seems fairly standard and compatible with all Mobos, I guess the cables aren't. Neither the 24pin ATX standard offered as an alternative to the Corsair SF series.

If I were to make my wires (with the mod kit) It would take me to pinout 12v, 5v and ground cables from PSU to the connector (which schema is pictured here.

Probably I should not be playing with these things, but given I want to make my own set of PSU cables, I could make these as well.

Thank you in advance, and congrats on so damn nice products you make.
Firstly, a quick DISCLAIMER: Please consider if you actually need to DIY your own cables, there's plenty of options to purchase custom cables and it's a very frustrating and fiddly project to undertake, with potentially expensive consequences for any mistakes. I take no responsibility for what you do, or if it burns up your equipment, you should do your own research and make sure you understand what you're doing.

I'll let @Thehack correct any mistakes here but this is my understanding:

M2426 and 200X both function on (regulated) 12V input, regardless of power supply. (Side note: M2426 does not support external power bricks without PS_ON/5VSB, but the 200X will.)

The J-Hack adapter (M2426 or 200X) requires 2 connections from a standard PC power supply, there's:
1) the actual supply voltage on a 4-pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr (GND / 12V / 12V / GND) and
2) the standby power and PSU switch on a 3-pin JST XH connector (PSON_HI / 5VSB / PSON_LO)

If you want to use the J-Hack adapter for EPS (<100W?) or PCIe (not recommended?) you'll need a third cable, with a 4-pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr (GND / 12V / 12V / GND) to the appropriate pins on the EPS or PCIe output.

You're in luck if you want to connect the M2426 to an EVGA SuperNOVA power supply as you can easily modify the Corsair SF cables to suit your power supply.
Given both Corsair SF and EVGA SuperNOVA PSUs use 18-pin and 10-pin connectors for the ATX12V, but the pin-out is different you'll just need to pull and swap the wires around to match based on the below diagrams (from PC-mods.com)


Pay attention to pin locations for:
  • +12V (yellow)
  • +5V Standby (purple)
  • Power On (green)
  • Ground (black)
Be extra careful, as the actual wires you'll be using will be black, so don't rely on colour, and always ALWAYS double-check your wiring before plugging it into the PSU/equipment, check it from multiple perspectives and even get someone else to have a quick look at the diagram to make sure it looks right. It's very easy to check and fix, but potentially very costly if you get it wrong.

=======================================
J-Hack M2426 to Corsair SF (Type4) ATX12V modular PSU:
12V supply is two 18awg wires from 10p-pin3 and 10p-pin4 (dual-crimp on 10p-pin3, see bridges below)
GND supply is two 18awg wires from 18p-pin5 and 18p-pin14
5VSB supply is one 22awg wire from 10p-pin2
PSON supply is one 22awg wire from 18p-pin13

There are also a few 18awg bridges on the J-Hack PSU->adapter cable:
18-pin connector: Pin 12 to Pin 17 [GND] and Pin 4 to Pin 8 [GND]
10-pin connector: Pin 5 to Pin 6 [+3.3V] ?
Between connectors: 18p-Pin 18 to 10p-Pin 3 [+12V]
=======================================
POSSIBLY (read disclaimer again) J-Hack M2426 to EVGA SuperNOVA ATX12V modular PSU:
12V supply is two 18awg wires from 18p-pin6 and 18p-9 (dual-crimp on 18p-pin6, see bridges below)
GND supply is two 18awg wires from 10p-pin2 and 10p-pin6
5VSB supply is one 22awg wire from 10p-pin8
PSON supply is one 22awg wire from 18p-pin11

You may also need a few 18awg bridges:
18-pin connector: Pin 6 to Pin 18 [+12V] and Pin 3 to Pin 7 [3.3V]?
10-pin connector: N/A
Between connectors: 18p-pin15 to 10p-pin2 [GND] and 18p-pin14 to 10p-pin1 [GND]
=======================================

The two 4-pin Mini-Fit Jr connectors are interchangeable on the M2426 (but not on the 200X - thanks for clarification @Thehack). There's also a 4-pin JST XH for powering other devices / peripherals which has 12V GND 5V GND so you can wire up a SATA/Molex/whatever if necessary.
 
Last edited:

Thehack

Spatial Philosopher
Original poster
Creator
Mar 6, 2016
2,814
3,670
J-hackcompany.com
Firstly, a quick DISCLAIMER: Please consider if you actually need to DIY your own cables, there's plenty of options to purchase custom cables and it's a very frustrating and fiddly project to undertake, with potentially expensive consequences for any mistakes. I take no responsibility for what you do, or if it burns up your equipment, you should do your own research and make sure you understand what you're doing.

I'll let @Thehack correct any mistakes here but this is my understanding:

M2426 and 200X both function on (regulated) 12V input, regardless of power supply. (Side note: M2426 does not support external power bricks without PS_ON/5VSB, but the 200X will.)

The J-Hack adapter (M2426 or 200X) requires 2 connections from a standard PC power supply, there's:
1) the actual supply voltage on a 4-pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr (GND / 12V / 12V / GND) and
2) the standby power and PSU switch on a 3-pin JST XH connector (PSON_HI / 5VSB / PSON_LO)

If you want to use the J-Hack adapter for EPS (<100W?) or PCIe (not recommended?) you'll need a third cable, with a 4-pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr (GND / 12V / 12V / GND) to the appropriate pins on the EPS or PCIe output.

You're in luck if you want to connect the M2426 to an EVGA SuperNOVA power supply as you can easily modify the Corsair SF cables to suit your power supply.
Given both Corsair SF and EVGA SuperNOVA PSUs use 18-pin and 10-pin connectors for the ATX12V, but the pin-out is different you'll just need to pull and swap the wires around to match based on the below diagrams (from PC-mods.com)


Pay attention to pin locations for:
  • +12V (yellow)
  • +5V Standby (purple)
  • Power On (green)
  • Ground (black)
Be extra careful, as the actual wires you'll be using will be black, so don't rely on colour, and always ALWAYS double-check your wiring before plugging it into the PSU/equipment, check it from multiple perspectives and even get someone else to have a quick look at the diagram to make sure it looks right. It's very easy to check and fix, but potentially very costly if you get it wrong.

=======================================
J-Hack M2426 to Corsair SF (Type4) ATX12V modular PSU:
12V supply is two 18awg wires from 10p-pin3 and 10p-pin4 (dual-crimp on 10p-pin3, see bridges below)
GND supply is two 18awg wires from 18p-pin5 and 18p-pin14
5VSB supply is one 22awg wire from 10p-pin2
PSON supply is one 22awg wire from 18p-pin13

There are also a few 18awg bridges on the J-Hack PSU->adapter cable:
18-pin connector: Pin 12 to Pin 17 [GND] and Pin 4 to Pin 8 [GND]
10-pin connector: Pin 5 to Pin 6 [+3.3V] ?
Between connectors: 18p-Pin 18 to 10p-Pin 3 [+12V]
=======================================
POSSIBLY (read disclaimer again) J-Hack M2426 to EVGA SuperNOVA ATX12V modular PSU:
12V supply is two 18awg wires from 18p-pin6 and 18p-9 (dual-crimp on 18p-pin6, see bridges below)
GND supply is two 18awg wires from 10p-pin2 and 10p-pin6
5VSB supply is one 22awg wire from 10p-pin8
PSON supply is one 22awg wire from 18p-pin11

You may also need a few 18awg bridges:
18-pin connector: Pin 6 to Pin 18 [+12V] and Pin 3 to Pin 7 [3.3V]?
10-pin connector: N/A
Between connectors: 18p-pin15 to 10p-pin2 [GND] and 18p-pin14 to 10p-pin1 [GND]
=======================================


My assumption is that the two 4-pin Mini-Fit Jr connectors are interchangeable, and either can be used for either input or CPU, and there's also a 4-pin JST XH for powering other devices / peripherals which has 12V GND 5V GND so you can wire up a SATA/Molex/whatever if necessary.
The 4 pin on mini fit jr is directional on the 200X. There is an IN and OUT side. The M2426 is reversible non directional. That and the external brick support are the main difference between the two.
 

laiv

Average Stuffer
Jan 25, 2020
75
57
Hi @SFFMunkee

Thank you for so elaborated answer. I appreciate it.

You are right at saying that making my own cables is a serious business. I'm not in a rush. I want to change the case first, but the one I want has not been released yet. So, meanwhile, I'm documenting myself (reading and watching video tutorials) about how to make custom cables.

I hadn't considered modifying the Corsair SF connector. It's a good tip. Given the lengths of the cables and my absolute lack of practice at doing these jobs, It's probably the best starting point.

Be extra careful, as the actual wires you'll be using will be black, so don't rely on colour, and always ALWAYS double-check your wiring before plugging it into the PSU/equipment, check it from multiple perspectives and even get someone else to have a quick look at the diagram to make sure it looks right. It's very easy to check and fix, but potentially very costly if you get it wrong.
I had thought of using markers or coloured labels/tags that I could strip off once the cable is done.
 
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