Power Supply FSP FSP500-30AS Modular Flex PSU from GEEEK, anyone have one?

[fncalderong]

What I found in previous posts is this: as a distribution of the 10 pin connector:

Looking into the 10pin from the connector side with the clip on top:

_________Latch__________
3.3v Gnd PWOn Gnd Gnd
3.3v Gnd 5Vsb 12v 12v
________________________

So I assume I need to connect the 2nd and the 3 rd to make it work.

 

[vinnyoflegend]

Thanks for your help, so I must jumper the 2nd and the 3rd on the 10 pin connector right?
_________Latch__________
3.3v Gnd PWOn Gnd Gnd
3.3v Gnd 5Vsb 12v 12v
________________________

This map is correct for the one with 10p connector. Middle pin closest to the latch to any of the grounds.

This is how I test the PSU prior to any modifications. I leave it shorted with a bent paperclip and check all the voltages of the remaining pins with a multimeter.

 

[fncalderong]

This map is correct for the one with 10p connector. Middle pin closest to the latch to any of the grounds.

This is how I test the PSU prior to any modifications. I leave it shorted with a bent paperclip and check all the voltages of the remaining pins with a multimeter.

Thanks my friend! Appreciate your help and guidance.

 

[Levron]

Hey all, I recently convinced an eBay seller to sell me this for $10 plus $10 shipping to use in my custom home lab setup. I plan on using it to power my Optiplex and a NAS server. Originally, I planned to use the 12V line with a buck converter to step it down to 19.5V at 5A max, and another 12V to 5V 5A converter.

Now, looking at the 5V line that’s already available to tap into, would it be as simple as soldering a thick wire to that spot and wiring it to the correct layout for a SATA cable so it’s powered by both 5V and 12V?

Would the 5V rail be able to support 6A continuously, and is it safely regulated since the Geek seller did include a capacitor?

 

[vinnyoflegend]

@Levron if you look earlier in this discussion, the buck converter in the PSU was identified as "APW7159" (https://pdf.voron.ua/files/pdf/Microshema/APW7159A.pdf). The 3.3v and 5v rails from it are generated by this converter. According to the schematic each of those is good for up to 30A, though that's unrealistic since there would still be a max wattage shared with the 12v rail and any 3.3v being generated too. 6A shouldn't be an issue unless you're somehow already maxing out 3.3v and 12v together to 485W already (per the label on the PSU).

Yes, soldering a wire onto that spot will yield a 5v wire that can be fed to your other wiring of choice.

Geeek's reasoning for adding the capacitor isn't clear to me. It's possible they just wanted to protect the rail from transient loads or thought it needed from isolation from noise. (I don't think anyone here has hooked it up to an oscilloscope or load tested it specifically to see what they get under different conditions.

I'm using one of these for my daily-driver PC and have yet to see any much flux in the 5v rail even when gaming or encoding video (12700k+4070). My current up time is 73 hours. 5v rail in hwinfo shows a low of 5.00v, high of 5.08v, avg around 5.08v

 

[fncalderong]

Hello, is there any chance to get a sata connector from this PSU?

 

[fncalderong]

I wanna know if there is any chance to supply an ARGB connector using this PSU.

 

[vinnyoflegend]

If you're willing to make adapters or re-crimp existing connections with an additional feeder or split wire then you can make any cable that uses ground, 3.3v, 5v, or 12v wires on any ATX (or derivative) PSU.

ARGB? Sure you can supply 5v and G from the PSU with the same technique though you'll probably need to combine your data pin into the final connector.

 

[kogepathic]

The seller accepted $8/ea for QTY 5 (+S&H). I paid $58 total. Absolute steal for what you get.

 

[vinnyoflegend]

The seller accepted $8/ea for QTY 5 (+S&H). I paid $58 total. Absolute steal for what you get.

Nice, how much was shipping? I keep meaning to pick up some more to tinker with re-cabling

 

[kogepathic]

Nice, how much was shipping? I keep meaning to pick up some more to tinker with re-cabling

$8/each * QTY 5 = $40, plus $18 in shipping.

Shipping is $10 + $2/additional item (this is also stated in the eBay auction under shipping). Their packaging is top notch, each PSU was individually wrapped in bubble wrap and the box had paper filler to avoid them sliding around inside.

For anyone in the EU considering using a shipping forwarder, the package dimensions for the 5 units was 46x46x15 cm and 5.5kg

 

[vinnyoflegend]

$8/each * QTY 5 = $40, plus $18 in shipping.

Shipping is $10 + $2/additional item (this is also stated in the eBay auction under shipping). Their packaging is top notch, each PSU was individually wrapped in bubble wrap and the box had paper filler to avoid them sliding around inside.

For anyone in the EU considering using a shipping forwarder, the package dimensions for the 5 units was 46x46x15 cm and 5.5kg

Whoops my reading comprehension missed that math could give the answer but thanks for the detailed breakdown

 

[dukedevil0]

I'm using one of these for my daily-driver PC and have yet to see any much flux in the 5v rail even when gaming or encoding video (12700k+4070). My current up time is 73 hours. 5v rail in hwinfo shows a low of 5.00v, high of 5.08v, avg around 5.08v

How have you found the noise level from the PSU? I still haven't modded mine yet, but one of these days!

 

[vinnyoflegend]

In every system I've used it on it's basically inaudible, well below the noise level of idle CPU fans or GPU fans if enabled to run at non-zero speeds.

How have you found the noise level from the PSU? I still haven't modded mine yet, but one of these days!

 

[ttl2020]

Hi everyone, I'm new to SFF. I'm trying to use this power supply with my AMD BC-250 I need the power supply 8pin pcie power on only. Can I just jump the PWR ON on the 10 plugs and the 8pin pcie will have power?

 

[vinnyoflegend]

Hi everyone, I'm new to SFF. I'm trying to use this power supply with my AMD BC-250 I need the power supply 8pin pcie power on only. Can I just jump the PWR ON on the 10 plugs and the 8pin pcie will have power?

Yes, you can do that but it will need to stay jumped/shorted. The moment you disconnect it the unit will power off.

 

[507vaping]

Great find on that internal photo inside the FSP power supply! I'll be opening mine up when it arrives to look deeper inside.

So I did a little more digging and research (ok way too much research actually...)

I discovered there's another chassis option for the NUC9 Extreme compute element, which is the Cooler Master NC100. It comes with a case + PSU combo + slightly different baseboard, but still appears to use the same 10-pin connector on the baseboard as the Intel version. The PSU it uses is a Cooler Master V650 SFX Gold modular power supply. It uses a custom modular cable from the 10P + 18P connectors on the PSU side to the 10-pin BBWC1B connector on the baseboard. Reviewing some photos and videos, I was able to see which pins are present on the 10P + 18P side, and compared them to the pinout diagram of that PSU. Below is what I determined is going to the 10-pin BBWC1B connector. I have not been able to clearly figure out which pin is which on the 10-pin BBWC1B cable connector side yet.

Green highlight were pins found visually. Appears to be 13 total pins/wires on PSU side, with 3 of those being sense wires, which I assume those 3 are double wires into a single pin on the 10-pin BBWC1B connector. That leaves 10-pins for the connector on the baseboard side.

It seems the 10-pins should be 12v, 12v + sense, 3.3v, 3.3v + sense, GND, GND, GND, GND + sense, PS-ON, 5vsb.

So it's missing the Power Good/PW-OK signal?

Another helpful pinout diagram of the Cooler Master PSU, with pin numbers identified:


Helpful reference videos I used for the NC100 chassis/viewing the modular cable pins that were present:



Also, here are some pictures of the baseboards and 10-pin BBWC1B connectors in case these can help answer any questions:
https://www.kitguru.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Baseboard-3.jpg

https://hardwarecanucks.com/wp-content/uploads/Cooler-Master-NC100-Review-29.jpg

https://hardwarecanucks.com/wp-content/uploads/Cooler-Master-NC100-Review-30.jpg

O1CN01cd7ibH1F81WVz7P2C_!!53-fleamarket.heic_468x468Q75.jpg (350×468) (alicdn.com) (backside of baseboard)

Hope this all is helpful and gets the discussion further along!

I had a question regarding this power supply as well, does anyone know if it would power a ASROCK BC-250? What pins do I need to short to get it to turn on if so?

 

[507vaping]

Yes, you can do that but it will need to stay jumped/shorted. The moment you disconnect it the unit will power off.

That would be fine, my thought was to wire the pins to a switch and that way I could toggle the unit off and on. Do we know which pins need to be jumpered? I got these really nifty rocker switches for 24 pin to do this, I would assume once I identify the pins that need to be jumpered, I could just lop off the 24 pin and wire it up for the 10 pin.

 

[507vaping]

Sorry, if all this seems obvious. I just am doing a bazzite build on a BC-250. I got multiple of these, and using the small form factor Apevia works great, but they are far pricer than these units. I bought one, with the thought it might be possible. I just didnt want to blow anything up. LOL

 

[vinnyoflegend]

_________Latch__________
3.3v Gnd PWOn Gnd Gnd
3.3v Gnd 5Vsb 12v 12v
________________________

the layout for the 10p has been mentioned a few times in the thread. The pin closest to the latch to any ground pin will power it on