Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.6%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 355 75.4%

  • Total voters
    471
D

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“The two most powerful warriors are patience and time.” — Leo Tolstoy, War and Peace

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“They always say time changes things, but you actually have to change them yourself.” — Andy Warhol, The Philosophy of Andy Warhol

“Learn to enjoy every minute of your life. Be happy now. Don’t wait for something outside of yourself to make you happy in the future. Think how really precious is the time you have to spend, whether it’s at work or with your family. Every minute should be enjoyed and savored.” — Earl Nightingale

 
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RySean

Average Stuffer
Dec 20, 2020
58
49
ah the Strix board's biggest weakness


don't think that's possible because the behaviour would persists every time booting up a few seconds before the settings would kick in. then I found this K1M pump also from Bitspower, the cable is even more modular than S1, much lower wattage at 8.4W but still decent flow rate and higher flow rate than DC-LT 2
So bad news... I got the K1M and Magiccube, they are not compatible:





😢 The pump body is much larger than the opening on the Magic Cube.


Also, found this post, wish I'd Googled for it before buying.
 

RySean

Average Stuffer
Dec 20, 2020
58
49

Is this dumb enough yet? Yes this will all be going in my T1 when I eventually get it (except the reservoir, it's QDC so I just use it for filling the loop and then remove it).

Good news- I THINK the DC-LT 2 is sufficient to push water throughout this absurdity. Admittedly I don't have a great way to tell if I'm moving enough water other than measuring temps. AIDA64 stress test, here I go.
 

RySean

Average Stuffer
Dec 20, 2020
58
49
In conclusion (posting this for people looking to do something similar), a DC-LT 2 in a DC-LT 40 is sufficient for pumping through a TX240 + TX120 + GPU block + CPU block + reservoir + 2 QDCs.

Screenshot taken while AIDA64 had been running stress test for an hour:



TLDR: CPU capping at around 90C at the hottest spot, GPU capping at 52C (not pictured in screenshot), and coolant capping out at 41C. I have a slight PBO2 undervolt set on the 5900X (left thermal and voltage limits on Auto, but did a negative offset on all cores of 15) with an additional 100Mhz boost, and a slight undervolt on the GPU- 2000 Mhz at 1015mV on the RTX 3080FE. I'm pretty sure undervolting can be done far more aggressively on both CPU and GPU, and chipset temps can be improved by replacing the stock thermal pad.

We'll see how this goes when I get my T1, but I expect it to be viable with regards to the pump, especially since the tubing runs will shorten dramatically, it won't have the reservoir attached, and it'll go from 2 QDCs to 1 when the res is disconnected.
 

biopunk

Airflow Optimizer
Sep 24, 2020
248
359
In conclusion (posting this for people looking to do something similar), a DC-LT 2 in a DC-LT 40 is sufficient for pumping through a TX240 + TX120 + GPU block + CPU block + reservoir + 2 QDCs.

Screenshot taken while AIDA64 had been running stress test for an hour:



TLDR: CPU capping at around 90C at the hottest spot, GPU capping at 52C (not pictured in screenshot), and coolant capping out at 41C. I have a slight PBO2 undervolt set on the 5900X (left thermal and voltage limits on Auto, but did a negative offset on all cores of 15) with an additional 100Mhz boost, and a slight undervolt on the GPU- 2000 Mhz at 1015mV on the RTX 3080FE. I'm pretty sure undervolting can be done far more aggressively on both CPU and GPU, and chipset temps can be improved by replacing the stock thermal pad.

We'll see how this goes when I get my T1, but I expect it to be viable with regards to the pump, especially since the tubing runs will shorten dramatically, it won't have the reservoir attached, and it'll go from 2 QDCs to 1 when the res is disconnected.
Your flow rate must be very low, around 25-40L/h so you would be losing on some heat dissipation from radiators as it scales with flow rate until about 1 GPM.
With a DDC and CPU pump block you can have 4-5 times higher flow rate than that with the pump running at inaudible speed, and have easy time bleeding air from the loop unlike with DC-LT.
 

N9neBreak3r

Airflow Optimizer
Jul 17, 2020
349
468

Is this dumb enough yet? Yes this will all be going in my T1 when I eventually get it (except the reservoir, it's QDC so I just use it for filling the loop and then remove it).

Good news- I THINK the DC-LT 2 is sufficient to push water throughout this absurdity. Admittedly I don't have a great way to tell if I'm moving enough water other than measuring temps. AIDA64 stress test, here I go.
Lol dont worry man, been there! Heres my jank set up while waiting on my waterblock for my 3090:

 

RySean

Average Stuffer
Dec 20, 2020
58
49
Your flow rate must be very low, around 25-40L/h so you would be losing on some heat dissipation from radiators as it scales with flow rate until about 1 GPM.
With a DDC and CPU pump block you can have 4-5 times higher flow rate than that with the pump running at inaudible speed, and have easy time bleeding air from the loop unlike with DC-LT.
The DC-LT 2 says it's rated for 75l/h, so about 0.3 GPM. I would indeed rather have a DDC pump, and if I were starting from scratch I'd get the Aquanaut- but I already have the AMD Ryzen edition CPU block from EK. Given that, the S1 pump would be a great candidate if I had a 2amp header on my motherboard, which I don't. So that leaves a DDC310, but that would require modification to use just header power (since I don't want extraneous molex or SATA power cables). The DDC 3.1 would have been perfect, but it's discontinued.

It's possible I'm giving up some cooling performance, but I don't really love my alternatives :-/ and it appears to be sufficient (not like the pump is failing to move water or anything). It'd be great if someone had a simple DDC pump that ran on a 1amp motherboard fan header, but unfortunately that doesn't appear to exist currently. Maybe I'll upgrade the pump eventually, but for now it's doing ok.
 
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biopunk

Airflow Optimizer
Sep 24, 2020
248
359
The DC-LT 2 says it's rated for 75l/h, so about 0.3 GPM. I would indeed rather have a DDC pump, and if I were starting from scratch I'd get the Aquanaut- but I already have the AMD Ryzen edition CPU block from EK. Given that, the S1 pump would be a great candidate if I had a 2amp header on my motherboard, which I don't. So that leaves a DDC310, but that would require modification to use just header power (since I don't want extraneous molex or SATA power cables). The DDC 3.1 would have been perfect, but it's discontinued.

It's possible I'm giving up some cooling performance, but I don't really love my alternatives :-/ and it appears to be sufficient (not like the pump is failing to move water or anything). It'd be great if someone had a simple DDC pump that ran on a 1amp motherboard fan header, but unfortunately that doesn't appear to exist currently. Maybe I'll upgrade the pump eventually, but for now it's doing ok.
DDC310 is a non-PWM pump so you would need poweradjust to control its speed. At 100% it would run loud and make tons of bubbles.
Most DDC 3.1s are non-PWM, I know only one PWM variant which was sort of limited edition. DDC 3.2 PWM or newer DDC 4.2 PWM is the only DDC pump worth investing in.

I also didn't have a 2amp fan header so I re-crimped my DDC 3.2 to plug directly into the PSU. Worked like a charm.
However, if you want to easily set fan curves based on coolant temperature, it might be worth investing in Quadro instead which can power your pump via 4pin fan header. Fun fact: T1 v1.1 has 2 screw holes on the top piece of the front panel where Quadro can be mounted to.
 

RySean

Average Stuffer
Dec 20, 2020
58
49
DDC310 is a non-PWM pump so you would need poweradjust to control its speed. At 100% it would run loud and make tons of bubbles.
Most DDC 3.1s are non-PWM, I know only one PWM variant which was sort of limited edition. DDC 3.2 PWM or newer DDC 4.2 PWM is the only DDC pump worth investing in.

I also didn't have a 2amp fan header so I re-crimped my DDC 3.2 to plug directly into the PSU. Worked like a charm.
However, if you want to easily set fan curves based on coolant temperature, it might be worth investing in Quadro instead which can power your pump via 4pin fan header. Fun fact: T1 v1.1 has 2 screw holes on the top piece of the front panel where Quadro can be mounted to.
Good to know. My goal overall though would be a pump that can operate on a 1amp motherboard fan header alone- I don't want any additional wires heading to PSU if I can help it.

Feels like there's a market opportunity here for people who want a small DDC pump that can be fully powered off of a 1amp fan header and use PWM for speed control. I have to imagine it's quite doable for someone with the right expertise. It'd be THE choice for anyone not using an Aquanaut CPU block.
 

NRG

Airflow Optimizer
Oct 30, 2015
289
359
Good to know. My goal overall though would be a pump that can operate on a 1amp motherboard fan header alone- I don't want any additional wires heading to PSU if I can help it.

Feels like there's a market opportunity here for people who want a small DDC pump that can be fully powered off of a 1amp fan header and use PWM for speed control. I have to imagine it's quite doable for someone with the right expertise. It'd be THE choice for anyone not using an Aquanaut CPU block.

Eyebrows Flirt GIF


Click.
 

stanleyguan

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Jun 18, 2020
114
331
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Speaking of that useless pump, I got a response from Bitspower about it: https://www.bitspower.com/support/2967/which-pump-top-fits-the-bpta-k1m

It appears to be a proprietary design just used for a specific line of distro plates they made.
I also got the K1M pump and I was able to use it with the DDC pump top that came with EK DDC 4.2. From what I can tell it was also used here with the Iceman external pump/res. I can’t speak to Magiccube but for my case and what it looks like for the Iceman pump/res as well you just need to screw it in with portions of the screws visible outside. For me I screwed in too hard and broke the four "wings" at the edge of K1M. So I just inserted some thermal pads between the back of the core of K1M and the outer pump housing so that the housing pushes it in when it’s screwed onto the pump top. I hooked it up to a loop and it did not leak. Let me know if anything is unclear. I understand it’s janky for sure.