Could you please provide a photo or diagram from Paint? I'm interested in the side radiator?
There are only renders of this in Sandwich (and they are quite old), but if you want to see how it might look in Reference, look at some Ncase M1 builds, as that is almost what will happen.
As W360 has said in the past, dual rad, especially in Sandwich, is only for people who are willing to put in a ton of work into making it work.
Would his idea of using that EK-XTOP DDC 4.2 PWM Elite work on the GPU side better than the FLT-80? Still going back and forth on adding a second DC-LT pump, going with the FLT80, or now this new option of the EK-XTOP (that appears to be substantially smaller than the FLT-80?
Well when something like the bitspower magicube top exists, I don't see the need to use such a limited port option like the x top, unless you really want that pump.
Which pump would you recommend for use with the Magicube? The issue I'm finding is in trying to find a pump that fits and is powered by just a fan header (pretty sure no DDC pump runs off of just that), or powered by a single SATA power connector. Trying to avoid having any standard molex in my build, especially since that would also mean buying SATA -> Molex adapters.
That is something I don't know. I can recommend the DDC310 from alphacool, which can be rewired and crimped to a regular fan header. It's a 10w pump, so will work on any fan header.
Oh interesting... That's a cool idea. I also found this adapter that accomplishes the same thing without manual rewiring- though of course it's not as clean.
So I think the conclusion here is whether to go with the Magicube + the DDC310 either rewired or with adapter, or if my DC-LT 2 in the DC-LT 40 is enough to handle it.
So far the DC-LT 2 appears to be sufficient for my current loop (3080FE + EKWB CPU block + TX240 + Koolance QDC (which allows for in-lining a reservoir)). The question is when I throw in a TX120, will it still hold up.
I thought about buying a flow meter, but it seems like they're wildly inaccurate (according to Igor's Lab), so that wouldn't be very valuable.I suppose I should just add my TX120 and see if my temps improve or skyrocket and then decide if I need to upgrade my pump.
For what it's worth, I had a DC-LT power a dual TX240 loop and while it was an absolute nuisance to bleed without QDCs, it did work. I didn't keep that build long and didn't have any way to measure the flow, but temperatures didn't skyrocket during use or anything so there was at least some flow.
I wouldn't really recommend it if you have other options, but it would work, theoretically.
Good to know! I do have the QDCs adding resistance to the loop, so that makes the DC-LT work harder. However, I'd be running a TX240 + TX120 rather than dual TX240s, so maybe it all balances out?
I do have other options, but they all cost money
Since I have the DC-LT 2 already it'd be awesome if it just works as is without needing a pump upgrade.If I were starting from scratch, I'd probably do 10W DDC pump to a fan header. Hope that realization is useful to anyone reading through this thread for build advice, haha.
Bitspower does have this S1 pump that has DDC-mounting, quite slim profile and only a single 4-pin PWM plug. Although it is a 17W pump, should be quite easy to locate a high power header on your motherboard (2A header for either fan or AIO pump) or just limit the RPM to about 65% to never goes past 12W
Nice! That's really handy- a great option especially for people (like me) who don't want to rewire
Unfortunately, my ASUS X570-I Gaming only has 1A headers (all maxed out to 12W), but your suggestion to run it at 65% would work great. It would still provide 624 L/h, substantially better than the DC-LT 2 at 75 L/h.
One question about setting that though- presumably I would have to decrease it in BIOS, but in order to get to BIOS to set the power for the pump I would need to have it booted... which would try to push 100% by default, which would be a bad time. Is it possible to "pre-set" power to a given header?
ah the Strix board's biggest weakness
don't think that's possible because the behaviour would persists every time booting up a few seconds before the settings would kick in. then I found this K1M pump also from Bitspower, the cable is even more modular than S1, much lower wattage at 8.4W but still decent flow rate and higher flow rate than DC-LT 2
At the risk of sounding... risky, if you're booting straight into BIOS, flipping a setting, then back out anyway couldn't you just chance it without the header plugged in while you go in to change the setting? Then of course power down, connect, and cool normally. Since you're not full booting it in that slim window of unplugged time, it wouldn't be a heat death scenario, right?
Awesome find! That K1M pump + Bitspower Magicube combo should be the standard recommendation for anyone not using an Aquanaut. That looks like the perfect solution.
I'm not sure you could change the setting on the header if there's nothing plugged into it though. Or if you set it, then plug something in, it might default back to 100%.
Absolutely. Had one Alphacool die on me because it suddenly started leaking like crazy. Was unfixable after that. Never again.
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Damn ..... Any news on this case...? Feb2022 already..
Are you sure about that? I'd imagine the pending transaction has just been removed. Just to be clear, there is no pre-order, what is on the website is an interest check. It will put a temporary hold on your card, but it will not be used and expires after a few days - up to a month depending on your bank.My credit card have just been charged by FormD, WY after a month of preordering. It looks like W360 is ready to sell the case?
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