I would only recommend the TUF and FTW3. If you have the money 90 FE. Seems like the best custom PCB without waterblock in this case is going to be the EVGA FTW3.
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I want to see the RGB lmaoJust posted this on reddit but I think it belongs here as well! Apologies for the long post!
This is the first 3080 custom loop in the FormD T1 I believe so I have put together some findings that some may find useful for their build in the future.
We'll start off with some specs:
PC Components:
Formd T1
i7 10700K
RTX 3080
Asus Z490-I Gaming
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2X16GB) DDR4 3600
500GB Samsung M.2 NVMe SSD
1TB Samsung SATA SSD
Corsair SF750
Custom Cables
Watercooling Parts:
EK Quantum Velocity CPU Block
EK 3080 Quantum Vector GPU Block
2x Noctua NF-A12x15 Chromax Fans
Alphacool Eiszapfen G1/4 Inline Temperature Sensor
Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnects
Laing 12V DDC-1T Plus PWM Pump
EK ZMT 10/16mm Tubing
EK SE 240 Classic Radiator
EK Fittings
Now for thermals. This is primarily a gaming machine, I have set up the system to perform well in gaming loads at a very low noise level. At stock power draw the 3080 is very inefficient, luckily the RTX 3080 undervolts very well. My undervolt is set up for 1800MHz at 800mV using MSI Afterburner. This causes a drop of around 100W of power during some gaming loads compared to stock for a loss of only a few frames per second. The ambient temperature during these tests was around 24°C.
I also have my fan curve set based on water temperature. At idle the fans run at around 950 rpm with is basically silent. The fan speed ramps up to around 1400rpm at a coolant temp of 50°C. My pump is being run at 35% fixed, which is about 3000rpm.
I did a few tests to cover the most common questions, you can use the power draw figures to adjust to your specific use case. Click on the titles for a screenshot from HWiNFO for each test.
Furmark GPU Stress Test
Furmark GPU Stress Test + Prime95 Blended CPU Stress Test
COD Warzone
Rainbow Six Siege
As you can see this setup performs quite well under gaming loads. A 45°C coolant temperature is very reasonable considering the low fan speed and noise, only 300rpm above idle settings.
With this fan curve coolant temperature does get quite high with a synthetic load on both the CPU and GPU, however this will never occur under normal gaming loads and therefore isn't an issue for me personally.
All in all I am very pleased with these results and think this is a very viable setup for gaming with a 3080. Now we wait for Cyberpunk!
Just posted this on reddit but I think it belongs here as well! Apologies for the long post!
This is the first 3080 custom loop in the FormD T1 I believe so I have put together some findings that some may find useful for their build in the future.
We'll start off with some specs:
PC Components:
Formd T1
i7 10700K
RTX 3080
Asus Z490-I Gaming
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2X16GB) DDR4 3600
500GB Samsung M.2 NVMe SSD
1TB Samsung SATA SSD
Corsair SF750
Custom Cables
This is a PNY 3080?
Def need to compile a list of 3080/90 compatible cards with waterblocks from EK and Aliexpress. I can't seem to find a resource of who is using reference and who is using custom pcbs in the 3080. Anyone able to point me in the right direction? So far I know PNY and the FE models will work with water blocks
Ugh i was worried about this being the answer. Every time I look at the FTW3 I imagine clowns which thankfully I'm not scared of but man is it ugly imo.
The FTW3 has a bit of trouble fitting in the T1, and compared to the TUF, it's not really worth it in terms of noise and thermals from what I've read
This is not a problem anymore, Nvidia had already fixed this with a driver update a few weeks ago. This video was made before any fixes were made, all because the community wanted answers ASAP. Plus, EVGA on their updated 3080s don't use those caps, only reviewers got those models.
And if you watched that video, you would know that it's not a case of "MANUFACTURERS CHEAPED OUT!!!!", it's the fact that the board partners weren't able to test the cards sufficiently because nvidia withheld drivers from them that would have allowed them to find these issues.
you cannot fix cheap hardware by rewriting software !!
they for sure made it work stable but it cannot perform as well as nvidia FE.
with nvidia FE you get more for your money.
.
This is honestly off topic.
But the FE is well built and is MSRP, so I'll give you that.
Back to FormD T1!
I know it's off topic, but you saying that they "cannot perform as well as nvidia FE" is just false. You lose like what, 50 points in 3DMark, but lose nothing noticeable in other programs and games? It's a non-issue for 99.9% of people, and should not be what you base your purchase off of. Just get whatever fits in this case (like thermals and noise) because all 3080s will perform within 1% to 2% of each other, this drama is behind us all now, it's pointless to bring it back for no reason.
Plus, it wasn't completely the OEM's cheaping out, it was the fact that nvidia didn't give them the grounds to test the cards properly before the release, so these problems showed up after release, after people had already gotten the cards. But the problem is fixed now, so why even bring it up?
Has anyone (looking mainly at @fabio @stanleyguan @DrHudacris since I believe I remember you three fellas mentioning these fans) tried the Scythe Kaze Flex 12mm fans on thicker radiators? I just realized I have an Alphacool ST30 lying around. Seems like it might work as my main radiator with the 12mm Scythes, so long as they aren't completely inadequate for 16fpi on ST30.
Also: I thought I remembered someone saying that I need to add the 1mm rubber pads on the Scythes due to the blades sticking out? So would I be SOL with respect to the 42mm motherboard clearance? Or is that maybe not a "hard" 42mm? EDIT: Found Huda's confirmation of a "hard" 42mm here!
Also: I thought I remembered someone saying that I need to add the 1mm rubber pads on the Scythes due to the blades sticking out? So would I be SOL with respect to the 42mm motherboard clearance? Or is that maybe not a "hard" 42mm? EDIT: Found Huda's confirmation of a "hard" 42mm here!
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I believe the core of ST25 and ST30 are identical, so might as well go with 25 and 15mm fans.
And small nit pick, it's a scythe slipstream (12mm), the Kaze flex slim are 15mm. But you are correct as to the rubber pads (sometimes 2) being needed in the pull orientation as the blades stick up past frame.
That should mean 17mm + 25mm works too...
I'm waiting for @Wahaha360 's custom 17mm thick radiator to kick TX240 to the curbs ? ? ?
Hey I am looking to do something very similar, do you mind explaining how this would work give that there is no inlet port on the side of the block? Is there enough room to you run the tube between the GPU block and the radiator?
For the DDC pump, the 50x50mm square holes for securing it, what did you use?
Also, I noticed you didn't use the SFX Flip Bracket, did it try and drill 2 holes in that bracket to secure the DDC (I'm thinking about adding holes to that bracket as an update)?
The pump is just supported by the fittings so no hard mount, definitely secure enough how it is now. Mounting holes could help if someone was going to try to fit a pump/res combo in front of the gpu though
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