10 Minutes and I am already tired! Trying on my backup GTS! I think I can match the rings on my Torque fittings with the golden stripes! ?
Are you sanding it yourself? If so what are you using?just sand paper? I dont know much about diy and stuff10 Minutes and I am already tired! Trying on my backup GTS! I think I can match the rings on my Torque fittings with the golden stripes! ?
From my estimates using this http://www.barrowint.com/product/cpuslt/Barrow_cpu_water_block/1604.html
and the smallest 90 degree fittings I could find (not rotary sadly) should leave me with 1.5 mm of space from the side panel in two slot mode.
Aliexpress has it for 110 USD.
Probably waiting for the 3000 series to finish the build, just air cooled with noctua l12 for now, still super silent.
and the smallest 90 degree fittings I could find (not rotary sadly) should leave me with 1.5 mm of space from the side panel in two slot mode.
Aliexpress has it for 110 USD.
Probably waiting for the 3000 series to finish the build, just air cooled with noctua l12 for now, still super silent.
The paint is too thin for a grinder, when I was learning pipe welding, we would use grinders but that paint is alot thicker than the paint on the rad
Well, I've just checked my GTS in the T1 and it is 132.9mm! The one I am working on, NOW it is 134... I NEED AN ELECTRIC SANDING MACHINE!
orbital plam sander with fine grit paper will do it, anything above 400 grit will take off the paint and prevent damage to the metal as long as you are careful and keep it moving. Set it to almost the lowest speed, be patient and you will be rewarded with a clean finish.
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At the end of the day, there is no point in getting an electric sander for 1 thing, get different grits of sandpaper and work your way from rough to fine grit.
Thanks!!
Btw, I have to file the brass, not just the paint. Is it working in any case?
The tolerances are just TOO TOIGHT! But yeah having the fans between the rad and top panel fixes the problems, I was just stubborn. I did have to use a lot of force to close it with the spacers though, like I had to have my elbow on the top panel and lean onto the case to be able to screw it in. Again, I was stubborn and I was going to make it work because I had spent too much time trying to make it work
50mm same as the CPU cooler height. But if you are using an AIO or a custom loop, it is a good idea to go with lower profile RAM like corsair LPX so you can give enough room for cables and tubes to go over the RAM if it needs to. And if you're doing an air cooled build, then account for the air cooler's ram height clearance
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Depending on the design you can sometimes afford to lose all the metal down the side.
For sure tubing will be easier with shorter RAM, but want to correct this and say RAM height is ok up to 55mm. The top of IHS is 8mm off motherboard PCB whereas the bottom of RAM socket is 3mm off PCB, giving 5mm additional space for RAM. Handy diagram
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