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Completed DeskNano x300 - a 1.2L replacement for the DeskMini a300/x300

msystems

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Apr 28, 2017
804
1,405
It does not, it rests on that lip which will be flush with the pcb. The core is inset from that tray by .5mm.

Nice print quality!
 
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kevpatts

Cable Smoosher
Jul 2, 2019
12
11
Okay, got the thing together (loosely) and it all works, thanks.

This print is just a draft really, going to print it much better when doing the final one when I get a better colour. Prusa MK3S+ with Prusament PLA.

Still need to get screws, a power button and some shorter wifi antennas!






The M.2 cover on the back is gold too.

Currently printing the 120mm cutout.

Thanks man for all your work on this.
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Apr 28, 2017
804
1,405
Another color scheme.
Reflective Copper + Black, Black switch bezel, White Led, no HDD light.






Also did a thermal gaming test with the above setup to evaluate the impact of the mesh density.

Test setup (Gaming OC):
CPU: Ryzen 5700g, 4.4ghz manual clock @ 1.3v, SMT off
iGPU: 2250mhz @ 1.15v SOC
Memory: 4000mhz, 17-17-17-34-51, 320 tRFC
Cooling: L9A + A12-15

30 mins Witcher 3 - Max CPU 74c, Max Memory 40.5c.

Current-Min-Max-Avg

Performance could be better, but it did hold up the pretty brutal OC config acceptably with the tightly spaced mesh.
 
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robbee

King of Cable Management
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
883
1,388
That's a sweet looking mesh! What is your workflow to configure slicer only for selected area of the part to make it a mesh? I have been experimenting with that and were only able to "stack" two different parts with different settings together to make a complex "combined" mesh. But maybe you have a better workflow?

Prusaslicer allows you to use 'modifier shapes' to change settings at certain areas of your part, which can be used to choose where to set the top and bottom perimeters to 0.

1658662505598.png

Orange is the part, green is the modifier block. The green block changes the perimeter settings where it interferes with the part. Modifier blocks can be cubes, cilinders, spheres, or even STL's you made yourself.

1658662587379.png

Sliced result. Have yet to print this though as my printer is at a friends place at the moment.
 

Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
2,201
2,225
Prusaslicer allows you to use 'modifier shapes' to change settings at certain areas of your part, which can be used to choose where to set the top and bottom perimeters to 0.

View attachment 1933

Orange is the part, green is the modifier block. The green block changes the perimeter settings where it interferes with the part. Modifier blocks can be cubes, cilinders, spheres, or even STL's you made yourself.

View attachment 1934

Sliced result. Have yet to print this though as my printer is at a friends place at the moment.
Lol, here I was the other day thinking pretty much exactly that "I wish I could use the support exclusion blocks to selectively implement 3Dmesh." Thank you for this. Have to play around with the slicer even more now! So many options and settings to find and figure out.
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
883
1,388
Lol, here I was the other day thinking pretty much exactly that "I wish I could use the support exclusion blocks to selectively implement 3Dmesh." Thank you for this. Have to play around with the slicer even more now! So many options and settings to find and figure out.

It works the exact same way, only difference is that it allows you to change pretty much any settings and not just support settings. Right click your part on the right panel and this is what you are looking for (pardon the Dutch):

1658664338150.png

After you positioned/scaled your modifier, you can right click that layer and select Layers and perimeters

1658664389707.png
 

Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
2,201
2,225
It works the exact same way, only difference is that it allows you to change pretty much any settings and not just support settings. Right click your part on the right panel and this is what you are looking for (pardon the Dutch):

View attachment 1936

After you positioned/scaled your modifier, you can right click that layer and select Layers and perimeters

View attachment 1937
Awesome, thank you. Will be looking into that now :)
 

kevpatts

Cable Smoosher
Jul 2, 2019
12
11
Having some problems getting the M3 screws to work. The holes for them are 3mm wide so the M3x20 screws don't catch and just slide out on my tray to core. Think it's the same on the lid.
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Apr 28, 2017
804
1,405
So we are using different screws. The tray-side holes of the core are 3.2mm in the model, and I'm using these 3.15mm nominal (or .125in #5) self-tapping plastic/sheet metal screws to reach to the middle of the core while still not being too difficult to screw in.

I will look into slightly adjusting the tolerances (maybe an alternate version?) so that either type of screw will work, but in the meantime before I get to that, it should still work with 20mm M3 machine, by adjusting the horizontal compensation a little bit. This shouldn't affect your print scaling much, its just a small offset to the perimeters.

Cura has a specific adjustment for this - "Hole Horizontal Expansion". Negative value = tighter


and In PrusaSlicer Expert mode - there is a setting for XY Size Compensation. Negative value = tighter


It shouldn't take much, like -.1 to -.2mm
 
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kevpatts

Cable Smoosher
Jul 2, 2019
12
11
Thanks for this, I thought that may have been the case. I'll let you know in 7-8 hours. By the way in PrusaSlicer it's positive values to make it tighter, so I'm printing again with XY Size Compensation = 0.2.
 

Kumamon_SZB

What's an ITX?
New User
Jul 26, 2022
1
0
a300 and x300 only, for now.

B660 is a possibility, but at the moment, it is poorly optimized and I don't recommend it until it gets further bios and microcode updates. It has worse integrated gaming performance, worse multi-core, and a 75 watt hard limit (x300 has 120 watts++). I have the B660 and only use it as a test bed for the on/off switches.
Really like your work! Can't wait to see b660 version!
 

kevpatts

Cable Smoosher
Jul 2, 2019
12
11
So that change worked perfectly for the screw holes but had a pretty dire effect on the wifi antenna fitment. I'll try to widen the holes manually but currently the antennae don't fit even with a lot of force from a needle nose pliers.
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Apr 28, 2017
804
1,405
I updated the default core on Printables with a -.2mm adjustment to the tray-side of the core (now 3.00mm in the model) for better compatibility with M3 machine or wood/plastic screws (recommended). The top side is unchanged at 2.9mm intended for M3x8mm. Thanks @kevpatts for your report.
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Apr 28, 2017
804
1,405
So I had a little time to work on the GPU module. The first alpha version (0.4) will be put on Printables later and i'll be adding more revisions / versions.

It supports 2 slots and depends entirely on external power for the card and riser. It uses ADT R43UH (10cm).











Above is pictured with L9a+120mm fan and Evga 3060ti XC, it is about 230mm long, 105mm wide, 144mm tall (3.4L without power). The separation from the backplate is 9mm, necessary for the depth of the riser itself, but also airflow, and bend radius of the riser cable.


The shape is a bit weird due to the position of the m.2 slot, so the rear of the expansion card cannot be in perfect alignment with the x300 rear I/O. This adds about 25mm to the length of the card. But it could be much smaller by getting a shorter, or single slot card (< 3L).




The HDPlex 400w AC-DC roughly approximates the new HDPlex GAN which is ideal for this.



There is enough clearance below the card for your power connector, but not enough for an HDPlex power supply, so my current plan is to mount HDPlex and Pico sized units up top, and then examine doing ATX/SFX/FLEX versions that mount on the underside. It's also possible to angle the card and create a horizontal prism shape, and mount a small dc-dc power supply between.

The module will also have a surface hole pattern for attaching a cosmetic shroud to protect or fully enclose the GPU if desired.
 

jaeparku

Cable-Tie Ninja
Oct 19, 2018
230
116
hey man. Amazing work!!

Is it possible to use your 3d print files to do the same thing for Deskmini H470 (Intel version)?
 

msystems

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Apr 28, 2017
804
1,405
No - the front I/O is the same, but the rear I/O is different, and there would need to be changes to the Tray as it was designed for the board.

However the H470 has the same front and rear I/O as the newer b660 version. And it has a similar board layout. So if I make a b660 version, it should also fit the H470 version, maybe with some small changes. If the socket position is the same then the lids for both versions would be compatible also.



H470

B660
 
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jaeparku

Cable-Tie Ninja
Oct 19, 2018
230
116
No - the front I/O is the same, but the rear I/O is different, and there would need to be changes to the Tray as it was designed for the board.

However the H470 has the same front and rear I/O as the newer b660 version. And it has a similar board layout. So if I make a b660 version, it should also fit the H470 version, maybe with some small changes. If the socket position is the same then the lids for both versions would be compatible also.



H470

B660

Currently the X300s are sold out and discontinued...so I had to resort to H470 to build a mini PC for my dad.

It would be awesome if you made one for the Intel version as well! Would I at least be able to 3-D print the mesh panel and use it? or is that a no no as well?