Custom heatsink for the RTX A2000

robbee

King of Cable Management
Original poster
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
887
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I am interested in this product and would like to buy a heatsink L5 Lone. Do you have any plans for further production? ;)

Hey there, at the moment, the demand is higher than I anticipated. Orders are closed because the backlog of open orders would otherwise become too large.

I think that in 2-3 weeks, I should be able to open orders again.

Also do note that, in the L5, you only have space for 15mm thick fans with this heatsink. I would personally advice the Gelid Silent 6 fans.
 

Pyrotechnics

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Feb 20, 2022
4
4
Hey there, at the moment, the demand is higher than I anticipated. Orders are closed because the backlog of open orders would otherwise become too large.

I think that in 2-3 weeks, I should be able to open orders again.

Also do note that, in the L5, you only have space for 15mm thick fans with this heatsink. I would personally advice the Gelid Silent 6 fans.
Nice to hear good news ;) I subscribe your website news for email. Also how can I get notification when your produck in stock? Should I get notification for email subscribe?
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
Original poster
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
887
1,403
Nice to hear good news ;) I subscribe your website news for email. Also how can I get notification when your produck in stock? Should I get notification for email subscribe?

I send out stock notifications to newsletter subscribers so you should get one too
 
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land7020

What's an ITX?
New User
Mar 24, 2023
1
0
Here we go!



This is the 120x60x20 copper block. It weighs a ton, 3 times as much as the aluminium version. The skiving is done very well and the finish on the block is nice and smooth.




This is the template that I have printed, with notches for the mill and mounting holes.




The block inserts like this, which should make the use of the template more clear. The tiny holes are for a 1.5mm drill and the large holes are for the mill.




First comes drilling ad tapping. The template also serves to keep my tap straight. Tapping an M2 hole is stresfull as the tap is so tiny and brittle...




Phew, that went well! Fun fact, I used high fat milk as cutting fluid because I read on a couple of forums that it works well with copper. Aluminium goes well with WD40.




Now for the milling. I'm using a simple 4mm HSS mill with 2 flutes. You can see the template guide around the end mill which should explain how it will work with the 3D printed template. This is a 10mm template guide so the cur will be a little bit smaller that the holes I have in my template, 3mm to be exact. (3 mm border + 4mm mill + 3mm border = 10mm)




The printed template is bolted to a wooden scrap board, which is clamped to my table. This thing won't move anymore. Always use safety glasses when milling!




Cut in progress... You may have noticed, it's cold here!




First cut done! I'm cutting off 0.5mm at a time. Rather a few thin more cuts than destroying your end mill. The surface finish isn't the best on some places, but I think that's mainly because there is some flex in the plastic template.




This should do it. I cut off 3.2mm from the 3.5mm base, but as you can see, I got through at some points. Tolerances are probably not really on point at my end.




Back inside. Warm again, phew! The parts where I went through the base look a bit whack, but that will hardly be visible once mounted.




I found these threaded offsets for m.2 drives but supposedly they're the exact format I need for mounting the block without putting too much force on the silicon.




Followed by some silicon washers...



And mounted! The stock backplate works well, I only needed new M2 screws because the original ones didn't work with my design.




Fitment is great. This is a part where I didn't go through the base so you can see how little reserve there is. The memory got new 2mm thermal pads, the original ones where too thin and sticked to the heatsink too hard.




The I/O bracket cannot be attached to the heatsink as it's too short so I just bolt it down with M2.5 screws.




Et voila, inside my case! Unfortunately, the fan position doesn't line up 100% with the heatsink on this revision of my case, but I'm working on a new revision using the HDPlex 250w GAN psu.


Now for some thermal results... The results are good, that's a start, but not as great as I was hoping. It beats the aluminium version by about 2-3C but I was hoping the difference would be more profound. I'm guessing it's still a solid result nonetheless, as it's actually a bit smaller and the fans don't line up perfectly. But in practice, I don't notice any substantial difference between the two.

I will run some benchmarks at various fan speeds later on to compare the two heatsinks. For now, they both excel at what I needed them to do: keep the A2000 cool and quiet.
Can you link me the right angle PCIEX16 adapter you used? I have been trying to find one to do the exact orientation you have.
 

asffn

Efficiency Noob
Sep 5, 2025
5
1
Hi @robbee,

I’d be interested in a variation of this mod and would appreciate your help in creating and potentially selling it through your store. I’m reaching out here instead of sending a private message in case this idea might interest other users as well.

My project plans involve using the @REVOCCASES A2000 copper mod as a base and integrating it with the HDPLEX Passive GPU Heatsink System inside the Streacom DB4 case. The only missing component is one of the five 4-hole patterns needed to connect the two parts. Once the required clearance for 6 mm HDPlex pipes is determined, the rest of the mod could be covered with the same fins currently used on your RTX A2000 passive heatsink. This variation would not only simplify building a DB4 with an A2000 but also significantly enhance interoperability between fanless specialist components.

Kind regards
 

robbee

King of Cable Management
Original poster
n3rdware
Bronze Supporter
Sep 24, 2016
887
1,403
Hi @robbee,

I’d be interested in a variation of this mod and would appreciate your help in creating and potentially selling it through your store. I’m reaching out here instead of sending a private message in case this idea might interest other users as well.

My project plans involve using the @REVOCCASES A2000 copper mod as a base and integrating it with the HDPLEX Passive GPU Heatsink System inside the Streacom DB4 case. The only missing component is one of the five 4-hole patterns needed to connect the two parts. Once the required clearance for 6 mm HDPlex pipes is determined, the rest of the mod could be covered with the same fins currently used on your RTX A2000 passive heatsink. This variation would not only simplify building a DB4 with an A2000 but also significantly enhance interoperability between fanless specialist components.

Kind regards

This sounds very similar to something I have already made for a customer's RTX 4000 SFF Ada, basically a baseplate with the HDPlex block soldered or screwed into it. It doesn't use the fins you mentioned, though, not sure how much difference that would make.

 
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asffn

Efficiency Noob
Sep 5, 2025
5
1
This sounds very similar to something I have already made for a customer's RTX 4000 SFF Ada, basically a baseplate with the HDPlex block soldered or screwed into it. It doesn't use the fins you mentioned, though, not sure how much difference that would make.

I would take full advantage of any performance improvements offered by such a modification, which is why I'm also considering the use of fins. I don't want to experience throttling during long weekends. Summers can get extremely hot, with temperatures often reaching 40 degrees Celsius in recent years—this isn't ideal for passive cooling. I'm also thinking about using copper shims for the memory instead of thermal pads. These shims were previously sold by coolmygpu.com, but the website seems to be down. I can't find any other sources online for these shims, so maybe you'd consider adding them to your store as well.

I also plan to use the same HDPlex GPU cooling kit to cool the CPU, as @Raiju did in his My (Second) Streacom DB4 Build. However, I'd appreciate it if someone could clarify how the HDPlex heatsink is attached to the CPU. My kits are arriving by the end of the week, but I can't figure out what the two (nickel?) parts attached to the heatsink are. Are they included with the HDPlex GPU kit? Please let me know if you could help put these ideas together.

Cheers