Just finished wiring up the AC input for my Meanwell unit. Looks like it is working okay so far
Big thanks to @Thehack for this guide and answering my questions along the way
Glad to have another 12v comrade.
Just finished wiring up the AC input for my Meanwell unit. Looks like it is working okay so far
Big thanks to @Thehack for this guide and answering my questions along the way
Interesting read. I've always found Mean Well EPP options reliable and high quality. I get them from https://www.powersuppliesonline.co....rame-power-supplies/epp-series-mean-well.html
They're pretty clued up on the technical side too which is great for a newbie like myself.
I love the form factor of the HDPlex 400W, makes me wonder what it could look like in 12V.
You are dropping some not-at-all subtle hints here Got anything more specific to say, like when we can expect to hear more? I for one am very interested.It would be 2/3 the size. There will likely be a 12V board similar to HDPLEX 400W in the future.
You are dropping some not-at-all subtle hints here Got anything more specific to say, like when we can expect to hear more? I for one am very interested.
Ridin' the hype train! But seriously...
First off, you've read the first post in this thread, I assume? It's quite comprehensive. Other than that, I kind of doubt this will happen, frankly. Why? Because there's too much variability. How much power do you need? What are your space constraints? Do you want an internal or external AC-DC PSU? After you've figured that out, you have the questions of what terminals you need for your cabling (varies by each line of PSUs, and even changes by the output wattage), what tools you need to wire them up, and how you need to lay out your cabling for your devices. What tools do you need, and which do you have already? Do you know how to use them? The first post lays most of this out in a clear and concise manner for a single series of Mean Well 12V PSUs. If you want to go beyond that, you'll need to read up.I just want 2 know if someone is planning to make a easy guide for us noobs in this forum. This idea is great but without any guide leaves us in the dark.
Thank you.
First off, you've read the first post in this thread, I assume? It's quite comprehensive. Other than that, I kind of doubt this will happen, frankly. Why? Because there's too much variability. How much power do you need? What are your space constraints? Do you want an internal or external AC-DC PSU? After you've figured that out, you have the questions of what terminals you need for your cabling (varies by each line of PSUs, and even changes by the output wattage), what tools you need to wire them up, and how you need to lay out your cabling for your devices. What tools do you need, and which do you have already? Do you know how to use them? The first post lays most of this out in a clear and concise manner for a single series of Mean Well 12V PSUs. If you want to go beyond that, you'll need to read up.
In other words, any guide would then have to be either broad and vague and thus largely useless - I gather quite a few people here could put that together in not too long a time, but you wouldn't have much use for it - or it would have to be an undertaking of encyclopedic proportions, listing all the relevant parts at various wattages, their related connectors and components, where to source them, and how to wire them up and combine them in all the myriad scenarios possible. If you need a GPU, there's the question of how to rig up a load-switched power supply for it straight from the AC-DC PSU to avoid overloading the DC-ATX unit or leaving the GPU powered while the system is shut down. Then there's the risk. Not that this is dangerous (unless you're careless enough to short out a charged capacitor in an open AC-DC PSU or touch things inside a PSU connected to power), but we're talking about building DIY power supplies here. Mess up, and you'll ruin your hardware, shock yourself, or both. Wire an AC input wrong, and you can cause a fire. Use the wrong wire gauge for a wire carrying a significant amount of power, and you can melt your insulation (uh-oh) or connectors if you're really unlucky, not to mention the power losses you'll see through heat generated in the cable.
And in all of this, I haven't even mentioned the spanner thrown in the works if you decide to look into non-12V PSUs such as the HDPlex/KMPKT units. That's a whole other can of worms, with different pros and cons.
It would be really cool if we could make some sort of community-driven Wiki for these systems, but that would take a lot of time to get up and running and at a decent quality.
Tl;dr: This is not "easy". An easy guide might be possible (the first post does a bang-up job, frankly), but is not really advisable, as the risks would be significant. If you're not willing to read up on how to do this correctly and safely and spend a while researching what works for you, this type of setup is not what you want.
So why don’t HDplex go into 12v when it seems superior in every way ?
Is ther any optiOn to the G unique. It all still feels a bit insecure.
Seems likely. After all, selling different product lines like that will inevitably lead to people combining incompatible parts (regardless of how difficult you make it to order them together and how explicit you make the warnings of incompatibility) and breaking stuff (and subsequently blaming the manufacturer).I do not know. It may be due to them starting with 19V but now they're stuck with it because all of their product lines are based on 19V.
It could also be that they've focused early on external AC-DC, which are commonly 19V units.
19V has two advantage:
1. More common AC-DC external psu.
2. Smaller input wires.
Had some time to work on my PSU again and I wired it up to my Pico PSU 160XT
Did a test boot with a sacrificial board and now I have it hooked up to my spare system that had windows installed. I have it running P95 but it's only a pentium G4600 so the whole system barely pulls 40 watts.
Next step would be getting it wired up to power a GPU as well very pleased with it so far, at these low loads it is silent