So i wanted to compact the connector design, so I designed a pcb for this. I currently have 10 wago connectors lmao. They're limited to 20 amps each. So its kinda sus. the PCB suppose to have a heatsink on teh bottom for cooling. I might add a pinout for the PICO connector at the top of the PCB
Now i run into the question: since the manufacturer for LOP600-12 uses m3.5 screw terminals, can I do the same? According to digikey those terminals are rated for 15A.
Are the via holes on teh bottom giving it the extra current capacity?
or I should I use recubes? they cost $4 on digikey, but they can handle 130A or I can get the 100A version for $2. any thoughts?
Now i run into the question: since the manufacturer for LOP600-12 uses m3.5 screw terminals, can I do the same? According to digikey those terminals are rated for 15A.
Are the via holes on teh bottom giving it the extra current capacity?
or I should I use recubes? they cost $4 on digikey, but they can handle 130A or I can get the 100A version for $2. any thoughts?
So i wanted to compact the connector design, so I designed a pcb for this. I currently have 10 wago connectors lmao. They're limited to 20 amps each. So its kinda sus. the PCB suppose to have a heatsink on teh bottom for cooling. I might add a pinout for the PICO connector at the top of the PCB
Now i run into the question: since the manufacturer for LOP600-12 uses m3.5 screw terminals, can I do the same? According to digikey those terminals are rated for 15A.
Are the via holes on teh bottom giving it the extra current capacity?
or I should I use recubes? they cost $4 on digikey, but they can handle 130A or I can get the 100A version for $2. any thoughts?
I would just use through-hole with large soldering pad sized for the wire you're going to use. It would have a much better contact. I would also solder a second set of wires on the backside of the MW 600W as pictured. So two sets of 12 AWG if you're using the full 600W rated.
The rating of the terminals also depend on the quality of the finish. I would prefer to see 2 set of screw terminals... seems to be an oversight by Meanwell. A 50A connector should be on M5 or M6 screw sizes.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will make a version of the board to try to solder wires directly.
per your 2nd suggestion, I don tthink thats possible, as the pads on the bottom side is only connected to the positive trace. Its kinda hard to see, but theres a ring around the terminals of the negative trace
Kinda sketchy but maybe use the solder legs on the screw terminal?
What's the nominal power for your project?
What's the nominal power for your project?
Very sketchy tbh.
I have a undervolted 5700x and a 6750xt undervolted to 1160mV. The theoretical wattage should be around 300w, but i never tested the actual power draw. The temps never goes above 75c in my current setup
Hi, I found this PSUs as well but i can't understand the stand-by function. On the datasheet i can see how much power they're consuming while in stand-by but it's not clear (to me) when they go in stand-by.just FYI ... I recently came across MORNSUN power supplies which seem a lot like "MEANWELL inspired"
specs and build quality looks fine, so maybe that's an alternative for some of you...
View attachment 3115
For the LOF225 "standby power consumption" means: if no load connected. It does not have a PSON function if you were looking for this.
I finally found time to finish up my case design and printed a prototype (back plate took 8 revisions lol). This is what I have so far. I bought a RGEEK 150w to power the motherboard.
Short review of it: i noticed is that it had a very bright blue light that would stay (if it has 12v) on even if the computer is put to sleep, It almost lights up my entire room when the lights are off. Another thing I found is that the 12v in connector and the 4 pin connector would interfere with my CPU fan and the my ram. So pushing the thing in came difficult. The solution to this is to solder a 90 degree JST-VH header in place of the header it came with. 10 pieces costs about 2 dollars and 10 of each would cost about $10 in total (including shipping in the US). I would've done this, but it seems it fried itself somehow. So I bought a different one from the same seller. it supported up to 250w.
A short review of the 250w: It also had a blue light, but this time it turns on and off when you put the computer to sleep. The 12v in cables this time is pointing in the opposite direction
the pins for sata power is now 5 pins, but for some reason they used a JST-ZH, and it has 2 12v output lines. Slightly concerned about how much power it can output, but I connected 2 Sata SSDs, so I think it should be fine.
For the heat generated from the PCB i made, it seems to stablize at around 40C when im playing a game called Wuthering Waves at max settings. Im still keeping an eye on the temperature. for light to medium loads, it barely passes 31C. Here are some pictures of the PSU.
(case is still a prototype, so i doesnt look too good)
For the black fan (arctic p8), it spins very slowly when the computer is off, so I dont hear it at all, but when the computer is on, it spins faster, but its not too loud. according to a db meter app i tried, its about 37 db about 2 ft away, and about 50 db next to it. I saw someone recommend the arctic p8 max, which is apparently quieter, so im going to try that next.
To anyone else who tries this, be sure to be careful and not touch any coils on the LOP-600, even when unplugged, because I got zapped 2x when reassembling the case.
Short review of it: i noticed is that it had a very bright blue light that would stay (if it has 12v) on even if the computer is put to sleep, It almost lights up my entire room when the lights are off. Another thing I found is that the 12v in connector and the 4 pin connector would interfere with my CPU fan and the my ram. So pushing the thing in came difficult. The solution to this is to solder a 90 degree JST-VH header in place of the header it came with. 10 pieces costs about 2 dollars and 10 of each would cost about $10 in total (including shipping in the US). I would've done this, but it seems it fried itself somehow. So I bought a different one from the same seller. it supported up to 250w.
A short review of the 250w: It also had a blue light, but this time it turns on and off when you put the computer to sleep. The 12v in cables this time is pointing in the opposite direction
the pins for sata power is now 5 pins, but for some reason they used a JST-ZH, and it has 2 12v output lines. Slightly concerned about how much power it can output, but I connected 2 Sata SSDs, so I think it should be fine.
For the heat generated from the PCB i made, it seems to stablize at around 40C when im playing a game called Wuthering Waves at max settings. Im still keeping an eye on the temperature. for light to medium loads, it barely passes 31C. Here are some pictures of the PSU.
(case is still a prototype, so i doesnt look too good)
For the black fan (arctic p8), it spins very slowly when the computer is off, so I dont hear it at all, but when the computer is on, it spins faster, but its not too loud. according to a db meter app i tried, its about 37 db about 2 ft away, and about 50 db next to it. I saw someone recommend the arctic p8 max, which is apparently quieter, so im going to try that next.
To anyone else who tries this, be sure to be careful and not touch any coils on the LOP-600, even when unplugged, because I got zapped 2x when reassembling the case.
Looks like decent temperature, how did you check it, with a heat gun?
I was like 30°C hotter than you in a similar situation, smaller case though.
I guess from your pictures that your test was made without any case panel, like an open bench.
To prevent getting worse temps once the case is closed, you could swap that CPU fan for a bigger one, protruding from the heatsink over the RGEEK PDCB. Seems like you have some little room left before hitting the SATA data cables, should be enough to add some airflow there.
No idea why this happens, but my GPU for some reason revs up to max fan speed a few seconds after I put my computer to sleep. It eventually shuts off, but it gets annoying having to hear that every time before going to sleep.
I have a l12s there, and the heatsink is about 2mm below the edge of the case chassis. A fan wont fit ontop of the heatsink. My panels are going to have holes in it, so I doubt airflow would be a problem. I will test once I have those made (struggling to think of a nice looking design). But I first need to solve the gpu fans reving up issue before I proceed.
I used a laser thermometer. I pointed it at the heatsinks on the psu and thr pcb heatsink. I measure for about 3 seconds 5x to ensure accuracy. I have the psu fan plugged into my mobo so I can use fan control to control my fans to spin faster if the mobo gets too hot. I ran oblivion remastered for a few hours with my 6750xt running at 97% and my 5700x at about 70%. So far it hasn't gone above 40c. My chassis sits under my table. My cpu and gpu fan temps are <70c with 40% fan max (didnt see it spin faster than that)
I have a l12s there, and the heatsink is about 2mm below the edge of the case chassis. A fan wont fit ontop of the heatsink. My panels are going to have holes in it, so I doubt airflow would be a problem. I will test once I have those made (struggling to think of a nice looking design). But I first need to solve the gpu fans reving up issue before I proceed.
Wish I found this thread sooner.
Went trough the rabbit hole of trying to figure out a good solution for an internal DC PSU for a router build to replace a very old SFX unit, contemplated just using a 12v brick but it seemed silly to have an external brick for a pretty large MATX case. Found the 2x4in meanwell PSUs on my own but I at least have conformation they work.
Got an EPP-200-12, picopsu 160xt and all the plugs and terminals coming. Quite expensive all together, but it's the only way to get passive and efficient. Also have a printable bracket so the PSU and c14 socket drops right in where the SFX PSU went.
Went trough the rabbit hole of trying to figure out a good solution for an internal DC PSU for a router build to replace a very old SFX unit, contemplated just using a 12v brick but it seemed silly to have an external brick for a pretty large MATX case. Found the 2x4in meanwell PSUs on my own but I at least have conformation they work.
Got an EPP-200-12, picopsu 160xt and all the plugs and terminals coming. Quite expensive all together, but it's the only way to get passive and efficient. Also have a printable bracket so the PSU and c14 socket drops right in where the SFX PSU went.
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