3D Printing Thread
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Regarding my earlier filament jams, I've found a solution. I moved from the supplied 30mm hotend fan, to a 40mm fan and custom shroud. I think at the higher nozzle temps required by the 910, I was getting some heatsoak further up in the hotend that was causing the jams. Better cooling seems to have solved the issue.
It does seem that the 910 is pretty sensitive to extrusion width as well. It has a tendancy to reheat and gum up the nozzle if too close to a previous pass. That said, it prints pretty well. I don't think I'm a huge fan of having to use glue and the glass side of my bed however. I tried some eSun ePC that I like much better. I can actually make use of PEI!
It does seem that the 910 is pretty sensitive to extrusion width as well. It has a tendancy to reheat and gum up the nozzle if too close to a previous pass. That said, it prints pretty well. I don't think I'm a huge fan of having to use glue and the glass side of my bed however. I tried some eSun ePC that I like much better. I can actually make use of PEI!
I ordered a couple spools of Atomic PETG carbon fiber for the OSIDIAS project. It should be here tomorrow, and I can't wait to see what it can do as I've heard good things.
I've also been tweaking a few settings within the Duet Wifi controller. Although the D300VS specific settings supplied work for most right out of the box, I'm currently running an all metal Umbee effector setup. I had to adjust arm length in software to get dimensional accuracy on the X and Y axis. I got it dialed in pretty well last night.
I did speak to Ultibots yesterday, and I may move to a new Titan Aero extruder and Trick Laser ball cup arms. To be honest, there isn't a massive difference compared to the E3D-V6 and magball arms I'm using now, but I'm a sucker for upgrades.
I've also been tweaking a few settings within the Duet Wifi controller. Although the D300VS specific settings supplied work for most right out of the box, I'm currently running an all metal Umbee effector setup. I had to adjust arm length in software to get dimensional accuracy on the X and Y axis. I got it dialed in pretty well last night.
I did speak to Ultibots yesterday, and I may move to a new Titan Aero extruder and Trick Laser ball cup arms. To be honest, there isn't a massive difference compared to the E3D-V6 and magball arms I'm using now, but I'm a sucker for upgrades.
Prusa just announced their MK3...
Some stuff that jumped out to me:
Genuine Noctua Cooling Fans
Filament sensing, runout detection and print failure recovery
Powder coated PEI spring steel removable bed
Thicker extrusions for the Y axis
New bondtech extruder
New Motherboard with dedicated plug in spot for Raspberry Pi (Octoprint)
Didn't see anything on their website, but it looks like X-Axis gantry has been greatly improved (zipties aren't the sole holder of the linear bearings anymore.)
My wallet is crying in the corner right now, but for under $1000, seems like a unbeatable option in terms of features.
Some stuff that jumped out to me:
Genuine Noctua Cooling Fans
Filament sensing, runout detection and print failure recovery
Powder coated PEI spring steel removable bed
Thicker extrusions for the Y axis
New bondtech extruder
New Motherboard with dedicated plug in spot for Raspberry Pi (Octoprint)
Didn't see anything on their website, but it looks like X-Axis gantry has been greatly improved (zipties aren't the sole holder of the linear bearings anymore.)
My wallet is crying in the corner right now, but for under $1000, seems like a unbeatable option in terms of features.
Print failure recovery and the filament clogging sensing are awesome features. Filament sensing would (I hope) remove the need to babysit a print for fear or fire risk or damage, so could effectively leave the printer alone for long periods of time. And failure recovery is awesome.
I've been making a bunch of things lately that need joints or fasteners, and have been trying to get better at printing snap-fit designs. It reduces the complexity and annoyance of having the extra screws and threaded inserts in cases where all I really need to do is connect two lightweight pieces together without much force.
Found this PDF: http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf
Its too technical for me but might be useful to someone
Found this PDF: http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf
Its too technical for me but might be useful to someone
I guess you guys are aware already, but in case you aren't, 3dhubs has basically fucked everyone over, and should be pretty much avoided at all cost.
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/747slw/3dhubs_is_dead/
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/747slw/3dhubs_is_dead/
I saw that earlier today. What a sh*tshow. Not only in the comment thread you linked, but in 3DHubs response in a separate post.
- Jul 19, 2015
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For reference here is there response
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/74a4po/3d_hubs_is_alive_and_well/
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/74a4po/3d_hubs_is_alive_and_well/
Their reply not only did not address the concern, but is actually disrespectful in my opinion.
@msystems Nice fan ductWhich software do you use for modeling? Print quality looks good so far. Sometimes supports for small details aren't printed well.
yes im also looking for a good 3d printing software tho. could you share which software you used to print those stuff?
Hey guys i recently attracted to Mooz 3D printer from Kickstarter but my friend said that it is very risky to buy it from Kickstarter. personally, i think its cheaper to buy it from them. Do you guys have any experience with the crowdfunded 3d print? Do you think this Mooz 3d print spec is good enough for newbie? (i dont want to be looked spam so you guys can check it by yourself thanks )
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- Jul 19, 2015
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Threads merged
As an aside you dont technically buy things from kickstarter, you crowdfund the idea. More specifically its closer to investing w/ the promise of a kickback except w/out the legal protections of being a secured investor. Weather a project is successfully kickstarted or not tends to come down to the competence of the team running it more so than a 1 size fits all rule. That being said if its money you cant afford to loose then its likely wise to think very hard about it before investing it in a kickstarter.
Absolutely unfortunate with 3D Hubs. Pulling a MakerBot is never a good thing. (which is ironic as the library system in my city uses Replicator 5 printers.)
I want one. The risk with kickstarter is that it might not turn out (the developers could scrap the project for example) and you'd be left with nothing. But this looks awesome. Devs seem fairly engaged.Hey guys i recently attracted to Mooz 3D printer from Kickstarter but my friend said that it is very risky to buy it from Kickstarter. personally, i think its cheaper to buy it from them. Do you guys have any experience with the crowdfunded 3d print? Do you think this Mooz 3d print spec is good enough for newbie? (i dont want to be looked spam so you guys can check it by yourself thanks
Total newbie to 3D printing here. I don't plan to buy my own printer yet but I'd like to try out a third party service. Aside from online services I found a local UPS store that has a 3D printer that people can use, It unfortunately does not say on their website what kind of materials are possible with it, or what model of printer it is. Has anyone used one from those stores? Is the quality good to prototype parts with? I know ABS plastic is one of the higher quality ones without going with a super expensive industrial printer. Just want a good material to build structural parts with.
PLA actually works just fine for structural parts and doesn't emit noxious fumes like ABS does. I'm betting that's what the store is using
Definitely check what model of printer they have and then research it to see the quality you can get out of it.
Messed with OpenSCAD today, a powerful tool for customization here. Screenshots attached of changing a fan grille's outer dimensions from 120 to 140mm (err... units?) and ring count by only modifying two numbers in a json file and outputting to an STL (viewed in Cura) via command line:
-This is similar to Thingiverse's customizer, but it is application based and also has command line functionality, which is a real advantage when you want complete IP control over your files and don't want to publish them on Thingiverse.
-If you want to play with OpenSCAD's builtin customizer, make sure you download the development snapshot and enable "customizer" in the Preferences->Features->Customizer. The standard download doesn't have this function.
The point of modelling this way is it massively reduces the labor needed to design parts which have scalable features. Only have to design it once.
-This is similar to Thingiverse's customizer, but it is application based and also has command line functionality, which is a real advantage when you want complete IP control over your files and don't want to publish them on Thingiverse.
-If you want to play with OpenSCAD's builtin customizer, make sure you download the development snapshot and enable "customizer" in the Preferences->Features->Customizer. The standard download doesn't have this function.
The point of modelling this way is it massively reduces the labor needed to design parts which have scalable features. Only have to design it once.
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