3D Printing Thread

[msystems]

I've been printing a lot of ABS lately, really like it. I print it outside but the printer is in an enclosure and the top covered with a plastic sheet to keep the temperature stable. White ABS just looks really good. It does have higher shrinkage and problems sticking to the buildplate, but I found that a glue stick works fine and didn't need to use the ABS slurry. It does overhangs well. The thing I like though is it is easy to clean up and finalize an ABS print, because it's a soft material. Less time than PLA and much less than PETG.... PETG was horrible in that regard.

 

[Colinreay]

build area apparently a bit under 1ft cubed

You gotta check out the Creality CR-10 S5 (not affiliate link, just a US reseller), 500mm on all Axes! With an enclosure, the heated bed upgrade, and some cooling/strengthening upgrades, this thing could print full ATX cases in one go!

However, without some pretty hefty upgrades to the various gantries, I feel like print quality wouldn't be great.

 

[msystems]

Printing large things (not necessarily size, but printing time) things makes me very nervous, I would be upset if a print that took 12+ hours were to fail. I tend to break up larger prints even if they could fit, just to see that to each piece is just right and not waste as much time and materials in the process. Not so much because of worry that the hot end will get mucked up, but more commonly I find that unexpected warping appears, an overhang failed horribly, or an unlucky build plate detachment.

I imagine that there will be 3d printers coming along which will have improved sensors & imaging to detect when they have failed, and perhaps would even be able to note the point of failure (layer, and coordinate), and reason for failure. So that the print can even be resumed after cleaning the nozzle or mess on the print. Or can some already do this? That would be terrific

 

[Kmpkt]

I imagine that there will be 3d printers coming along which will have improved sensors & imaging to detect when they have failed

They're already here (but quite expensive of course)

https://markforged.com/mark-x/

 

[Colinreay]

I imagine that there will be 3d printers coming along which will have improved sensors & imaging to detect when they have failed, and perhaps would even be able to note the point of failure (layer, and coordinate), and reason for failure. So that the print can even be resumed after cleaning the nozzle or mess on the print. Or can some already do this? That would be terrific

I could be wrong, but I think I remember watching several videos of lower cost printers that also can do some sort of print failure detection. I'll try to find them.

Another thing is if appearance doesn't necessarily matter that much to you, you could slice the model at the point where it failed, and print the rest of it separately and then adhere them together.

 

[msystems]

They're already here (but quite expensive of course)

https://markforged.com/mark-x/

Jesus that's like the Lamborghini of 3d printers. I wonder if they accept alternative forms of payment, I have a spare kidney.

In all seriousness though, at the rate technology advances it's going to be awesome to see more features trickle down to the consumer grade 3d printers.

 

[Matt3D]

If we are speaking about the Lamborghini's of 3D printers this one should be mentioned

 

[iFreilicht]

If we are speaking about the Lamborghini's of 3D printers this one should be mentioned

Seems like quite a challenge to print completely horizontally as opposed to the diagonal horizontal printers like the printrbelt.

 

[msystems]

Just got a test print back from Sculpteo. Pretty amazing how much better the SLS print looks when comparing it to the result from the home FDM print. Overhangs and holes which would be challenging or impossible on FDM seem to be no problem at all, and the individual layers were barely visible. The only thing is the finish is sort of like fine sandpaper.

 

[matt3o]

just purchased a peopoly moai for the small pieces and items that require a lot of details. I'l get it in 3-4 weeks. Looking forward to it!

 

[wywywywy]

Let us know how you get on!

It would be interesting to see how well keycaps printed in resin do as well

 

[iFreilicht]

just purchased a peopoly moai for the small pieces and items that require a lot of details.

matt3o keywitches?

 

[craigbru]

Who here is using Alloy 910 filament? I typically use a PEI bed, and getting it to stick is an issue. I've read that using a glue stick can work, as well as printing to glass, or simply raising the bed temp. I was curious as to what method worked best for you.

 

[slimjim]

pei is not good to print with nylons, try plain glass with pva solution or gluestick or buildtak

 

[craigbru]

I did end up using the glass side of my build plate with a PVA solution and heated bed at 45C. The adhesion was pretty good. No curl or lift. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[matt3o]

Does anyone has experience in optics, specifically polarizers?

I'm trying to build myself a decent quality SLA 3d printer based on a 4K 12" LCD. Unfortunately LCDs come with very aggressive polarizers that cut most of the UV so I'm trying to find a replacement.

I have found some very interesting products that come in thin films but they are incredibly expensive ($400 per sheet). Ideally I would need high contrast and high transmittance (+50%) in the 395-405nm wavelength range.

I know it's a long shot, but does anyone have some contacts in the field? Thanks!

 

[craigbru]

I did end up using the glass side of my build plate with a PVA solution and heated bed at 45C. The adhesion was pretty good. No curl or lift. Thanks for the feedback.

Quoting myself here... Although adhesion is no longer an issue, I'm getting filament jams. Printing .2 layers @ 260C, and I can't seem to get more than maybe 10 layers or so before the E3D V6 stops extruding. I tried lower temps, but the filament seems to stiff and doesn't flow well. Printing at 260 allows decent flow, but the nozzle gets a little gunked up and gets blocked. I can't seem to find the correct balance. The PLA, PLA+ and ABS I've used don't seem to have this issue. What print settings have worked for you guys?

 

[slimjim]

filament james are caused by the following:

1. water in the filament, so dry it out in an oven and build a drybox

2. extrusion multiplier, properly calibrate your filament using the guide here: ***********/polygonhell

3. mechanical advantage problems with the motor on the extruder, take a look at your motor and the settings recommended for it

4. crap in the hot end, take it apart and clean it thoroughly

5. bad retraction settings, dont go above .2mm on retraction and dont go too fast

what printer are you using?


edit:

my url was blocked lol: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1163

 

[craigbru]

I'm using a D300VS delta from Ultibots. The Alloy 910 is the only filament causing an issue. The machine is calibrated correctly and all mechanicals are in good shape. The hot end is clear, and I did replace the nozzle just to verify it wasn't the cause. I'm moving on to other prints for the time being, and I'll figure out the Alloy 910 issue later.

 

[slimjim]

did you take calipers to the filament and make an appropriate extrusion multiplier according to the tutorial in the link?

what are your retraction settings?